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Subikid's 655992365th LGT


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Custom Pistons from MPS

3MI Racing Rods

EJ257 Crank

ACE Race Bearings

EJ205 Heads

Port and Polish

GSC 272 Cams

+1mm Supertech Valves

GSC Springs/Retainers

Static and Dynamic Balance for 9k RPMs

 

I will have supporting mods to push 500whp on corn

 

I have a few unique ideas for the car to make it one of a kind.

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They are, just with 3MI Racing's design. Yes I meant ACL lol.

 

EM will be a stock WRX ECU with a Jr tune. I will have an accessport so I can switch between maps on the fly.

 

The turbo and injectors are still undecided, although I have a very good idea.

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Cool! I'm shooting for about 220-275 on pump gas with a conservative tune and 550 or 565s so no need for a stroker. Also using a wrx ecu for em. Love the quick spool of the tdo4 but maybe ill use a vf39. Sounds like your gonna need a sweet twin scroll setup. :icon_twis
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Weekend Update:

 

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff139/ptownhawky15/2013-04-13_14-38-08_965_zpsdf19b115.jpg

 

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff139/ptownhawky15/2013-04-13_14-38-17_888_zps561f8fc2.jpg

 

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff139/ptownhawky15/2013-04-13_14-38-26_329_zpse15b2a18.jpg

 

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff139/ptownhawky15/2013-04-13_14-38-34_359_zpscc0eae43.jpg

 

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff139/ptownhawky15/2013-04-14_12-33-30_939_zpsb58eab00.jpg

 

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff139/ptownhawky15/2013-04-14_12-33-41_88_zps6493179b.jpg

 

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff139/ptownhawky15/2013-04-14_12-33-49_168_zps4abf796e.jpg

 

And the helper!

 

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff139/ptownhawky15/2013-04-14_12-34-20_909_zpse120f158.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

So is the original goal underway?

You were planning to use the 22T block.

I am definitely watching this thread (it was one of the first I saw when I first joined)).

I believe that the WRX ECU will run that block pretty smooth, considering that it will have lower than normal compression.

What are your ideas for the new hybrid? Head gaskets? Cams?

Definitely go for an 11mm oil pump since you'll need it.

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So is the original goal underway?

You were planning to use the 22T block.

I am definitely watching this thread (it was one of the first I saw when I first joined)).

I believe that the WRX ECU will run that block pretty smooth, considering that it will have lower than normal compression.

What are your ideas for the new hybrid? Head gaskets? Cams?

Definitely go for an 11mm oil pump since you'll need it.

 

Yes it is.

 

I will update the first post soon with all of the details. Going with the 10mm pump, I am plugging the oil squirters

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If you are plugging the squirters please sell me at least one. ;) I'm keeping mine. Not for function necessarily, but for coolness factor. Found a source in the UK for replacements but I'd rather buy local. Also, I'm using the stock crank and keeping the whp under 320ish, lol. Ill start out with a VF39.

 

Good choice staying with the 10mm oil pump. Running a larger pump isn't the way to go from what I have gathered. Are you going to shim it?

 

As you know, you won't be able to use an off the shelf map for your setup, but the stock map should be good to start it up and a quick break in.

 

I'm planning on using OEM 22T HGs. I have heard too many horror stories about Cometics for the 22T.

 

STi or grind 205 cams? :)

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Yes it is.

 

I will update the first post soon with all of the details. Going with the 10mm pump, I am plugging the oil squirters

 

I have seen a few cases around on the Internet where the oil squirters just fall out after a long while but it there any way to keep them in place so that they don't fall out? Asking the question even though I know that it's best for them to be removed.

 

If you are plugging the squirters please sell me at least one. ;) I'm keeping mine. Not for function necessarily, but for coolness factor. Found a source in the UK for replacements but I'd rather buy local. Also, I'm using the stock crank and keeping the whp under 320ish, lol. Ill start out with a VF39.

 

Good choice staying with the 10mm oil pump. Running a larger pump isn't the way to go from what I have gathered. Are you going to shim it?

 

As you know, you won't be able to use an off the shelf map for your setup, but the stock map should be good to start it up and a quick break in.

 

I'm planning on using OEM 22T HGs. I have heard too many horror stories about Cometics for the 22T.

 

STi or grind 205 cams? :)

 

I am running an 11mm STi oil pump (only because I am running DOHC heads on an EJ22) & the engine has absolutely no oiling issues. Oil gets to where it needs to quickly & there is no foaming or anything of that sort.

 

22T gaskets are a bad choice for the 205 heads since their coolant ports don't line up. They only line up with the 22T & 22E heads. I wouldn't trust that under high levels of power at all. A custom thickness head gasket with matching coolant ports for the 205 heads are the way to go.

 

I was going to use new 22E gaskets for my DOHC build but the coolant ports did not line up with those on the 25D heads, so I went for custom 222 head gaskets as those match the 25D coolant ports exactly.

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The way to keep them from falling out is to remove them and use lock tight when reinstalling them. If you change the thrust bearing position and go with an upgraded cross drilled crank then plugging the squirters is a good idea to avoid oil starvation to the crank if hp goals are high although this is debatable.

 

In my case my hp goals are moderate and I'm using the stock crank so keeping the oil squirters shouldn't be detrimental assuming I take steps to ensure they don't fall out. Squirters aren't bad necessarily, they were designed to cool the bores and the pistons for rallying conditions. However some have made the point that squirting oil on the pistons increases their mass during operation.

 

There must be a reason Subaru abandoned the squirters used in the 22Ts and closed deck 20Gs.

 

I am not completely set on keeping my squirters and would plug them and not look back. However it would be nice to keep them for historical value. :lol:

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From what I have read installing a larger oil pump won't help anything since the engine is what controls how much oil can circulate (bearing clearances, etc.) If you run a larger pump and the engine can't handle the increased flow it is recirculated within the pump which will only heat and aerate the oil, not increase the flow. I know there is a good thread about it on NASIOC where some heavy hitters arguing their points. Ill try to find it. In your case you aren't going for big numbers.
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It seems like high rpms demand less "fancies" & more straight to the point parts, so I definitely get where you & subikid90 are coming from. After researching carefully, I'd say that the squirters are there mainly for extra added reliability that comes with cooling the pistons off but the vibrations from running at high rpms (or age) will definitely shake them loose. You don't want things like that dancing around in a crankcase where things are moving at 6k+rpms. Subaru really might have deleted them for reasons we both speak of.

 

In my case, I chose the 11mm pump to ensure that oil was distributed to the 25D heads at all times since they are significantly larger than 22E heads. Also, I am using a 95 22E block. Even though it had 100k on it, it might have extra clearance in the bearings or whatnot, where the 257 pump definitely helps. It may sound paranoid, but my current 22E is a test dummy I need to last for quite a while during daily duty, testing, & such before I build the DOHC 222 after I have learned what I needed to.

 

Speaking of extra clearance, are the rod journals of the 22T 52mm, the same exact size as the 257 journals? I read up on the Phase 2 rod bearing failures that happened in mostly the 4th gen Legacys & the 3rd gen Imprezas. Basically, Subaru maxed out on the size of the rod journal for the crank/rods but they kept increasing the pressure of the oil pumps, which caused the rod bearings to become starved for oil because of aeration, the same as you have mentioned, monkeyposeur.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

hey so hows the swap and everything coming? Im the guy u sold a buncha parts to this summer. I ended up repainting mine and doing the forester suspension and some other bits and pieces, had a question in your opinion would it be better to just build a 2.2 block or would it be better to just buy a turbo motor and everythign to swap from a salvage car that got tboned, im working with limited money and only looking to get around 250 horse power out of it

heres a picture of how she ended up after the summer https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10202107092782532&set=a.1622771492875.184671.1344115449&type=1&theater

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had to recently move up towards Madison so I am trying to unpack everything now and get started back up on the project.

 

The car looks great after repainting it! For reliability going with the turbo motor swap is way better, but you can boost an ej22 with 5psi or so. The big problem is breaking things like transmissions when you do that.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Thanks! It handles great with the forester suspension especially for what I wanted it for which is ripping around the forest roads out here in Arizona. I'm really happy how it turned out the exhaust sounds great so many people have mistaken me for being turbo'd thanks. Thanks for the advice I'll start looking into salvage auctions! Good luck with your project look forward to updates.
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