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What'd you do to your FIRST Gen. Subaru today?


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Good thing you are taking car of all that, I believe rust was invented in new York unfortunately. At least you have a good base to finish repair though huh? Good luck and happy rust killing bro.
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Haha yes, I know a little old L will never be worth much, I still want to save it as much as I can. The rust is purely surface and localized so after some grinding/sanding and proper prep work the body should look fairly decent again, and I'm hoping to get it painted the STI/WRX? Color Java Black Pearl. I have a buddy who is going to spray it for just the cost of the paint and he has decent skill and all if the proper professional guns and accessories so it should look pretty snazzy when I'm done
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No doubt man, I'm in the same saving process with my 90 wagon, can't stand to see it get pillaged then squished for 200 hundred bucks in scrap. Its better to have a project and bide time than buy a new car these days. My project is through and through a complete one, motor, exterior and interior is not to bad just trim pieces...once its rolling and legal everything else will follow.
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Someone's been busy.........

http://imageshack.us/a/img195/8351/img0330ny.jpg

 

Thats Centric plain rotors, Akebono Pads (fronts), Goodridge SS hoses and an MSD neon coil.

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img12/5563/img0332wu.jpg

 

Also have a new master cylinder on order and gonna do a seafoam spray treatment and fresh NKG plugs.

 

Also...........

http://imageshack.us/a/img203/9522/img0328mk.jpg

New Sumitomo Touring LS-T tires.... had them almost 500 miles..

 

Upper radiator hose blew yesterday on the way to work(o.e.. 20yrs old, 281k)... so got upper and lower hoses and fresh coolant....

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I feel your bodywork pain,and I'm glad I'm not the only one crazy enough to spend this much time on an old legacy. I am starting to wish I picked up a shell that wasn't hailed on, 4 months later and Im finally almost ready to filler primer the whole thing. At least my arms will be nice and swollen by the time summer comes around. I kept sanding off too much when I used my air file, so I'm block sanding the whole thing, also in my previous pictures I was attempting to use a red one-part putty which was a mistake. Its all been redone right since then. I suck at bodywork, its taken nearly as much time as my whole FWD--->AWD turbo swap.http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20130510_083315_zps5a2cf586.jpghttp://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20130510_083224_zps4f0ba950.jpghttp://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20130510_083235_zps17820d6c.jpghttp://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20130510_083243_zpsbc647e0a.jpg Edited by USLiberty
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I was getting a little worried about the first gen forum, for a while it seemed like no one was posting.

 

Bondo work is very time and material consuming, its all about practice putting on and taking off. The first gens have long, flat areas and those are the hardest panels to get right imo.

 

The way I like to do those types of panels with an air file is to just bring the bondo down to about the same level with a 40e grit, then if you have a d/a sander take it down a little bit closer with 80 perforated sanding discs so the paper doesn't load up with bondo so fast. Get some cheap black or a dark colored spray paint and lightly spray the whole panel with it and block it down by hand with 180 grit paper until all of the dark spray paint is gone then you know your bondo is at the same level.

 

A lot depends on what kind of primer you will be using, etching primers for the most part are self leveling and you shouldn't need to block it down if you are spraying evenly. The 180 grit scratch is perfect for sandable primers, for etching primers you will want a finish grit of 200-240.

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Im running the MSD neon coil.... just finished installing it tonight... Seafoam treatment, new NGK plugs, changed the terminal ends and boots on my NGK wires, which only cost less than 6 bucks...

http://imageshack.us/a/img46/7946/img0335qo.jpg

kinda blurry.........

http://imageshack.us/a/img14/5263/img0336qc.jpg

more pics later.... but got it wired up correct first time.....need time to drive it to see any difference.......

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http://imageshack.us/a/img547/231/img0339r.jpg

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img59/5016/img0340ik.jpg

 

sporting the Akebono pads and Centric rotors up front, cleaned all the calipers, brackets and rear rotors and painted everything all nice and pretty... and installed the Goodridge SS brake hoses.......

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Modified a shortshifter from an 05 9-2x yesterday and installed it in the .:'fleabag'.: this morning, pretty cool feeling now since when I bought the car it felt like you could literally baseball throw it in gear from the back seat.
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Tomorrow I lay down some primer. I'm crossing my fingers that I got every flaw and no further putty is needed. If not, its gonna be flat white so it will not show minor flaws a easy. a gallon of u-pol build primer/catalyst was 167$. I'll be glad when its over. http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20130513_213106_zps672666f1.jpghttp://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20130513_213118_zps206f1584.jpg Edited by USLiberty
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Replaced the broken turbo resonator with a spectre intake pipe, 3" to 2.5" reducer, vacuum line fittings, and jb plastic weld. Also replaced the ailing turbo coolant hose with a new one. Now, to get the new dash put in.
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Heavy build primer is down. http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20130514_185105_zps7c05916a.jpghttp://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20130514_185050_zps0e79a4da.jpg
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Pure White with a matte clear coat, my first primer coat started sputtering on me until I cranked the gun from 35psi to 55psi. my gun wasn't in the best condition so it dripped a little while spraying the roof, nothing that more sanding wont fix. I have a new gravity fed gun for the rest of the paint, hardest part was spraying the roof and hood, I will build some makeshift scaffolding for doing the roof next time and ill pull the hood off completely. I also have a wing/trunk lid from my SS body that I am painting just in case I want the spoiler back on.
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Actually I found a cheaper alternative with great reviews, SEM HotRod flat series of urethane paint, single stage will be much easier to spray, lots of good reviews on it. Only bad thing is you cant polish it.... darn, ill miss out on all that elbow grease. As far as temperature goes, I think its manufacturer specific on what temp to spray at, ideally you want about 65-75°f for that UPOL build primer/surfacer I used. They usually only bake a car after a flash time of 30 minutes in normal temperature. I got a buddy that's prepping his Toyota p-up also, it helps to get someone elses opinion on your own bodywork. I'm learning a lot as I go, mostly about not cutting corners, and making friends at the local paint supply store helps. Getting a good primer down with mechanical adhesion is crucial. I watched the youtube videos on butler collision 's channel, great instructional videos if you have the time, help you save time redoing bodywork like I did. Learning how to feather the layers of paint back while sanding it is important. Edited by USLiberty
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Ill be using du-pont chromaOne silverI have some experience with it but I'm just blocking down the original clear coat, which is half done by the sun here..car was titled in new Mexico for the first 12 years of its long life so no rust to remove:). The only other thing is there is a nasty bit of damage on the rocker panel below the pass.rear door that I will have to section.

 

Hopefully by winter it will be registered and on the road again.

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Nayson paint is a good product. Their primer is great and their clear is also great. I had aces to a downdraft spray booth when I painted the L. I baked it at 120 or so for a few hours.

 

Some rust behind the rocker panel is coming back as well so ill also have to section it. I sandblasted it but I guess the rust stayed put. Fortunately none of the rust around the windshield has shown up yet.

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I (almost) got the dashboard pulled off. The previous owner had someone steal his car stereo with an axe. I pulled one from a TW a few months back. I ran into a few stubborn electrical connectors under the dash and ran out of patience. My plan is to get it all swapped over tomorrow.
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I got it drivable and out in the sun, spent the rest of the day recovering, even though I used a respirator I still had a headache all day. http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20130515_174654_zpse07da701.jpg
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I got it drivable and out in the sun, spent the rest of the day recovering, even though I used a respirator I still had a headache all day. http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20130515_174654_zpse07da701.jpg

 

Looking good! Hope you get over that headache, I know how bad painting can be. Cant wait to get my Leggy to that stage a bit later this summer.

 

Also, is that an SVO Foxbody I see in the background? ;)

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