Kiyo1990 Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 Oh ok, I understand you then. I would highly suggest doing them then.I plan to lol. But 987687 has a hell of a point! It is true, i do notice a difference in my other car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 The engine is going on 8k miles of use (108k on the 22E block & 173k on the heads) & it hasn't given me a single problem. The low-end could use some touching up, which has me looking into cams & stiff 257 valve springs. I haven't gotten bored of it but because of it's midrange power, I find myself staying there a lot of the time. With power mode switched on, this becomes a very responsive, fun little car that's good to drive because you can fling it around in the snow, corners, & rev the hell out of it. From what I've personally experienced, I'd place the power order like this (from weakest to strongest): SOHC 22E. DOHC 22E. SOHC 22T. DOHC 25D. SOHC 25E. DOHC 22T. Also, I have gotten the JDM side marker lights & I will install them once I get the wiring needed to do so. It's going to take me a while to turbocharge the engine because I'm going to focus on my mod list & start at the top, which are brakes & suspension, then transmission & differentials, & then lastly, the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Make your wiring and hmm do all gt have power mode? I don't think mine does Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 All automatics do, ground pin 4 of the big plug on the TCU to activate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Ah, well thank you Is there a switch I need to put in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 Ah, well thank you Is there a switch I need to put in? It can be a permanent grounded wire (not recommended) or you can wire pin #4 to a toggle switch, then wire that toggle switch to any ground. You really want to be able to control the power mode function though since the transmission upshifts much smoother & sooner when it's off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 AH, I got you man. I appreciate it, I like how the car drives as is...but would like to be able to have some fun lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 AH, I got you man. I appreciate it, I like how the car drives as is...but would like to be able to have some fun lol This is one of those "must-do" mods is you really want to get the best out of that engine & transmission as a combo. Holding a gear to redline & shifting w/your foot @ a whim is an awesome feeling once you master the throttle play. Trust me, this is something you want for your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 Ordered & installed the Kartboy lightweight pulley a few days ago. I will put up a pic of it tomorrow. It looks awesome on the 22E. Also started ordering new exhaust pipes. It's time for me to junk this 3 inch system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 What condition is your exhaust in? Haha I'm looking around and don't know what size to go And ah, well soon ill be looking into it (mod) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 What condition is your exhaust in? Haha I'm looking around and don't know what size to go And ah, well soon ill be looking into it (mod) Crappy. You wouldn't want it. I bought it because at the time, I had the money to buy a full WRX swap but I ended up spending most of that money to help out family, so the exhaust is what I have. Unfortunately, I've bottomed out so many times in this town because of the hills that its now in horrible shape. 2.25in is the best to go with our cars in N/A. On a brighter note, 9k miles now & light piston slap detected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Ah ok, thanks for the information. And is this the Frankenstein motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 Ah ok, thanks for the information. And is this the Frankenstein motor? Yes, same 2.2 w/2.5 heads. MPGs are still great. Car is still good. On another note, I learned the full origin of this car yesterday when I looked at the warranty booklet for the first time. I feel like I got to know the car a little more after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 So get this. The timing belt tensioner bolt, which is less than 10k miles old, SNAPPED while I was on my way to a friend's house. Luckily, the engine was at idle, so I'm hoping damage was not sustained by the valves. If so, I guess I'll be starting my Phase 2.2 DOHC build a little earlier than expected. If not, we will see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Ugh, that totally sucks. This is one of the big reasons I hate the new style tensioner system, if you over torque that bolt it'll either strip out and the tensioner will fall off, or it'll snap. Why subaru changed from the old system is beyond me. For the note, the tensioner bolt is only 18.1 ft/lbs whereas the rest of the tensioners are 28.9. Since you were at idle, hopefully it only skipped enough time to stall the engine before stalling it out without bending anything. I've seen a couple engines that have lost their belt at idle, and been fine. Since I thoroughly hate DOHC heads and anything to do with working on them, I'm hoping for your sake it's all good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Damn that sucks. I hope all is ok bro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 All is well. I was able to get a new bolt & start the car up. It was idling fine until & came out & saw the tensioner slightly flopping around, like it had little fluid pressure. Man, these tensioners are no good, huh? I'm switching back to the "arm" style tensioner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 Ugh, that totally sucks. This is one of the big reasons I hate the new style tensioner system, if you over torque that bolt it'll either strip out and the tensioner will fall off, or it'll snap. Why subaru changed from the old system is beyond me. For the note, the tensioner bolt is only 18.1 ft/lbs whereas the rest of the tensioners are 28.9. Since you were at idle, hopefully it only skipped enough time to stall the engine before stalling it out without bending anything. I've seen a couple engines that have lost their belt at idle, and been fine. Since I thoroughly hate DOHC heads and anything to do with working on them, I'm hoping for your sake it's all good. I know how you feel with hating the DOHC heads. They're such a bitch to deal with & time. And the engine did skip & stall before dying. Luckily, I threw the transmission in neutral & used the rolling momentum to travel into a parking lot & park. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 Just ordered timing belt bracket, timing belt tensioner & its accessories, & the vacuum solenoid valve (VSV). Everything except for the vacuum solenoid is 2011 spec. This will work out the way I want it to. End game on this scenario! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemingway Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Nice work ... thanks for write up on your progress. Very informative! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Are the "2011 spec'" better? Like better quality parts, and more dependable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 Are the "2011 spec'" better? Like better quality parts, and more dependable? Supposedly. I asked a Subaru tech in my hometown & he says that changes were made in the new style tensioner from 2010 up & they are supposed to be stronger than the years before. We shall see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted March 10, 2013 Author Share Posted March 10, 2013 Accomplished the following: Installed 0 resistance spark plugs. Installed full exhaust system from the cats back. Installed timing belt tensioner w/back plate. Reset ECU. Drove it. Got a PO135 code for 02 sensors (This might have happened due to the fact that the sensors were STUCK, as in I PB blasted them & they still wouldn't come off so they had no choice but to give way to 2 REALLY powerful kicks). Did not realize that the cats were of the "hi-flow" type & now the car sounds loud, even with the stock resonator/muffler. As for the power delivery concerning the 0 resistance plugs, I would have to say that the response is a lot more instantaneous than it ever was prior to the installation. The car seems like it delivers it's power better & runs a lot smoother, even though the high flow cats make it sound a little harsh with it's rumble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 He'll yes!! You got a lot done man. I'm going to sound dumb... So you just did oem catback with hi flow cats? As well who makes the plugs you have? Glad to see you got the tensioner installed and fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted March 11, 2013 Author Share Posted March 11, 2013 He'll yes!! You got a lot done man. I'm going to sound dumb... So you just did oem catback with hi flow cats? As well who makes the plugs you have? Glad to see you got the tensioner installed and fixed. I did a second check on the cats. They are normal but are shaped weirdly. They're much shorter than the Subaru cats. Also, I didn't realize that the second car had an O2 sensor hole & it wasn't plugged up but I fixed that problem, so now the car is quiet. It's almost eerie for the car to be this quiet. On the bright side everything that's been done, the 22D's power feels a LOT closer to a 25D now. Over 3000rpms, I can't feel the difference between the 2. The plugs used are made by NGK. What was done today: Transmission fluid & filter change & now shifts happen a lot smoother & sooner. Everything that needs to be replaced or done right now is being done. After the maintenance stuff, then I can get back on the track of modifying & cleaning it. I feel like the paint had been getting out of hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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