GEE-OTTO Posted August 22, 2011 Share Posted August 22, 2011 No it is MM (had turbo's on my mind:lol:) and nice on the Replica if it doesnt fit you may have to spread them apart a bit as MOST borla reps are too narrow for some odd reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted August 22, 2011 Author Share Posted August 22, 2011 Just ordered th 10mm from Subaru Part number 15010AA300 was only $117. Also got a new timing belt tensioner since I found out mine was seized. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 So engine is done and ready to go into the car. Still need to install the clutch and flywheel along with a few other things. Somehow managed to loose the woofdriff key for the crank then found it again the next day after buying a pack from Advance Auto. Also found out the bracket for the power steering pump uses different size bolts. On the phase 1 block the holes are a M8 and the nwer block had M10 so I ended up drilling out the bracket to make the M10s fit through the bracket. Hoping to get the engine in the car and running this Saturday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 I havent seen a exposed n/A DOHC is a long time lol did you ever get the itch to build a Ej255?? Nice work should provide many worry free miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasLegacy2.5GT Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Ah, the EJ255....what a great motor. Very easy to Drive day to day! Good Low end power as well. The turbo doesn't "make" the motor as in the other EJ's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 I think I might do an EJ255/7 at some point. I have a BMW 335i now and know I'm going to miss the turbos so I'll definatly be looking for more power later on. I just couldn't justify spending that much on such an old legacy. Maybe once I get a new wrx I'll get into a 255 build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasLegacy2.5GT Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Sometimes having the Vintage "old" model makes it that much sweeter. Most everyone has the new WRX. Having an awesome Sleeper BD/BG is way cooler IMO. It really boils down to just how much you love your car. To each his own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 I do like the cool factor of the sleeper BD/BG, just havn't fully made the decision to make this a project car instead of a beater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasLegacy2.5GT Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I hear ya on that. I've just spent a ton of cash trying to bring my BD back to it's decent looking appearance. Also to make sure all of the options are working. My BD IS my Daily Driver. My vintage weekend warrior is my SC 300. But the leggy will always be more fun to drive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 ok engine is in the car and running strong, but overheating. Not sure what the problem is as of now. Plan is to remove the radiator and backflush it as well as back flush the engine. I'm suspecting a partially clogged radiator so I'll probably pick one up next week. The next problem I have is I don't have a hose for the crankcase breather (PCV valve). I'm not even sure where it runs since the hose I have doesn't fit. I guess the port on the EJ253 is Different than the one on the EJ25D. There is also a port on the Plenum that is missing a hose as well. I'll try to get some pictures up tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 on the 253, the pcv is on the block whereas the 25d the pcv is on the intake manifold. since you are using the 25d manifold, use the pcv hoses from the 25d. if anything put something together thats similar to the 25d. for the overheating, did you check the thermostat if its opening; maybe its stuck. and its better to use OEM thermostat. i did headgaskets on the brothers car and i used an aftermarket brand one. it opened at the right temperature but is way more restrictive than the OEM, so the fans were constantly running to keep it cool. switched to the OEM one, and the fans cycled a lot less because it flowed better. also i don't know if there are differences in the coolant temperature sensor between the 25d and 253 but you may want to check that also. and make sure the radiator fans are hooked up so they run. good job by the way. my dads 98 forester is getting old now too and eventually if the motors goes, i'll probably do something similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 on the 253, you didn't split/disassemble the block right? you just cleaned it? those that have built motors before, if you know the motor is good, can you just disassemble the shortblock/pistons/etc to be cleaned and then put back together, or do you have to do machining once its taken apart? its not black magic is it? i kind of want buy a bad shortblock to practice on LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 on the 253, the pcv is on the block whereas the 25d the pcv is on the intake manifold. since you are using the 25d manifold, use the pcv hoses from the 25d. if anything put something together thats similar to the 25d. for the overheating, did you check the thermostat if its opening; maybe its stuck. and its better to use OEM thermostat. i did headgaskets on the brothers car and i used an aftermarket brand one. it opened at the right temperature but is way more restrictive than the OEM, so the fans were constantly running to keep it cool. switched to the OEM one, and the fans cycled a lot less because it flowed better. also i don't know if there are differences in the coolant temperature sensor between the 25d and 253 but you may want to check that also. and make sure the radiator fans are hooked up so they run. good job by the way. my dads 98 forester is getting old now too and eventually if the motors goes, i'll probably do something similar. I guess I have 2 PCV's then. This also explains why the hose I have didn't work. Is there a diagram anywhere of the hoses on the 25D. Thermostat is new and OEM. When I drain everything I'm planning on checking it. Does clock position really matter? I wasn't sure which way it went in so I used the picture int he book as reference. As far as the temp sensor they are different. I ended up using the original coolant pipe from the 25D since the one from the 253 was slightly different. on the 253, you didn't split/disassemble the block right? you just cleaned it? those that have built motors before, if you know the motor is good, can you just disassemble the shortblock/pistons/etc to be cleaned and then put back together, or do you have to do machining once its taken apart? its not black magic is it? i kind of want buy a bad shortblock to practice on LOL. Yes I only cleaned it. As far as splitting the block if everything measures true then I don't see a reason to machine anything. You may want to polish the crank and resurface the any mating surfaces on the block though. You will probably have to get new pistons though. On my 25D the pistons pins were seized in the pistons and took a lot of force to get out. FYI the tool for removing the pins is a joke. Just go from the opposite side and use a long screwdriver. If you rotate the engine just right the rod on the opposite side will move out of the way just slightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 So I think I've solved the overheating issue. Backflushed the radiator and engine refilled and checked the thermostat. I assume I just had some air in the system. Now I need to figure out this PCV. I'm thinking of blocking the PCV valve from the 25D manifold and running a hose from the 253 PCV valve to the extra port I have on the plenum. More Pictures: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 glad you solved the overheating issue. on the 25d, there should have been a plastic "Y" connector coming from the breather hole on the block. one connects to that plenum, and the other goes to the PCV valve on the intake manifold. i know on the 253, the pcv bolts on directly onto the block. i can't remember though if theres something else before the pcv that the pcv screws into, or if its just the block. i still think you should fab something close to what the 25d has. i don't reccomend just using the extra nipple off the plenum. i think its actually pretty restrictive if i remember correctly. trying blowing in it. also using that extra nipple, i don't know exactly how much flow the pcv requires, but the throttle body would be in the way. and check out these diagrams i found. shows the way things flow. http://www.rs25.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38619&d=1237256586 http://www.rs25.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38618&d=1237256586 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 glad you solved the overheating issue. on the 25d, there should have been a plastic "Y" connector coming from the breather hole on the block. one connects to that plenum, and the other goes to the PCV valve on the intake manifold. i know on the 253, the pcv bolts on directly onto the block. i can't remember though if theres something else before the pcv that the pcv screws into, or if its just the block. i still think you should fab something close to what the 25d has. i don't reccomend just using the extra nipple off the plenum. i think its actually pretty restrictive if i remember correctly. trying blowing in it. also using that extra nipple, i don't know exactly how much flow the pcv requires, but the throttle body would be in the way. and check out these diagrams i found. shows the way things flow. http://www.rs25.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38619&d=1237256586 http://www.rs25.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38618&d=1237256586 You mean this hose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 yea! the straight one to the right is to the block, the one curving down is to the PCV on the intake manifold, and the other one to the top is to the intake plenum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 Yeah I just need to figure out how to do the block connection. the 253 has a threaded port in the block then a threaded extension sleeve then the PCV valve. Whereas the 25D the sleeve is pressed into the block. I've been trying to figure out a way to remove the sleeve from the 253 block. I think I'm going to try putting red loctite on the old pcv valve and threading it back into the sleeve. Letting it set up and the removing the sleeve and pcv valve together as one. Then use something like this so I can connect the hose to it the hole in the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 SO now I have the PCV fixed and also had to replace the coolant temp sensor since the car still wasn't starting. NOw it starts fine but I find I have a misfire. I've replaced the coil, wires, and plugs with Subaru OEM parts. When I pulled the plugs out they were both covered in black carbon but even with fresh plugs it's still misfireing. Then I did a smoke test to check for vacuum leaks and none were found. This is leaveing me with Fuel to check. Checked the engine harness with a noid light and both injectors are receiving a signal. I can also hear both injectors firing with stethoscope while the engine is running. The only thing left that I can think of is something with the valvetrain. I have a bit of a rattle coming from under the valve cover but it's only at 2000-3500rpm it doesn't make the noise at idle. I'm at a loss here any help would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 welp here we go again. I'm getting pretty good at getting these engines in and out. Start to finish pulling the engine took about 1 hour and 10 min. Now the fun part of tearing it all down again. I had a Subaru tech look at it and he thinks I have a out of adjustment valvetrain and possibly a rod knock in the bottom end. Does anyone know where to get the shim kit for these engines or have a part number for the kit. If they're not to expensive I'd like to just get the whole thing since I know I'll have to adjust it again someday. And here's a pic of the engine coming back out again..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Damn! Sometimes you cant catch a break Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 Welp back to square 1. Finally got a chance to split the block and found a spun rod bearing. That's the 3rd engine I've pulled apart with a spun rod bearing. I'm ordering all new Main and rod bearings as well as some pistons. Any reccomendations? I'm going high compression so no need for high end turbo parts. Budget is probably around $600. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 ACL for the bearings. And how high CR are you aiming for 11:1 to 12:1 ? You are going to have to run high test gas and a reliable high CR N/A EJ is tough the one 300 awhp N/A EJ never really got off the dyno for reliability reason then ended up being sold. I would say you could bump CR to 10.5:1 OR look at tuning (timing and fueling) to achieve more reliable hp number at or close to stock CR ratios. As far as pistons I now TechWorks has some solid high CR pistons for the N/A DOHC EJ25 but they arent cheap also look at CP or Mahle for options. $600 isnt a good budget for high CR build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Also if you spun a bearing in a freshly rebuilt engine, then the assembler made a mistake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 Also if you spun a bearing in a freshly rebuilt engine, then the assembler made a mistake hahaha nice try but I have yet to put a bottom end together. The one engine i decided to use I picked up in CT for $100. The guy said it ran fine before he removed it and I took his word for it. And since I only paid $100 + about $50 in gas I'm not really that upset. Sure it would have been nice if it worked but I sort of half expected it to not. I was planning to keep it at about 10.5-11:1 which it what I built last time. Ran great and pulled hard just had the rod knock. Glad i decided to pull it apart sooner rather than later at least now I can reuse the block. According to this using the correct HG with the 251 bottom and 25D top I get 10.4:1 compression. I would like to see 11:1 but only if it's worth the extra cost. I can get 4 pistons from subie for about 250 and rings run another 150. Also I'm flexable with the budget $600 was just what I was hoping to spend. Even though I'm getting pretty good at tearing these blocks down. Went from complete engine to bare block in about 2 hours. Also as far as the ACL bearings where's the best place to order from. I only see a bunch of numbers on their site for reps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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