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97 2.5 DOHC Rebuild


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Try AZP for the bearings and i didn't know you dropped in a used SB so you are right for $100 i guess you can't be too upset.

 

Yes you can use a EJ251 bottom end and EJ25D heads could give you the CR bump you need but be mindful of the deck clearance

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Try AZP for the bearings and i didn't know you dropped in a used SB so you are right for $100 i guess you can't be too upset.

 

Yes you can use a EJ251 bottom end and EJ25D heads could give you the CR bump you need but be mindful of the deck clearance

 

So I got in touch with AZP. They're asking if I want the bearings with extra clearance for oil. Is worth it to go the extra .001? I figured I'd stick with std size since I'v had the crank polished. Wouldn't that remove .001 off the crank giving me the same result?

 

Sorry to jump in the middle of this but can you tell me the short

Version of you end result 2.5 rebuild? Was it hybrid or just built internals with a drilled crank? Also was there a HP goal you were shooting for? Is the BD a 5MT or a Auto?

 

The short? well I bought a used 97 LGT w/ a seized engine. Got an EJ25D from a friend that had a spun rod bearing. Decided to rebuild found it had a cracked blocked so I decided to use the block from the seized engine. Then I found out it wouldn't work since I had phase 1 as well as a phase 2 blocks. SO I couldn't use the crank out the phase 1 in the phase 2 block. So I got an EJ253 SB from rs25.com and used thinner HGs giving me about a 10.4:1 compression with the 25D heads. Ran good and strong but had a knock. Split the 253 and found yet another spun rod bearing. Now I'm starting over again but this time building the bottom end. Going to use stock 251 pistons and crank with ACL bearings. Thinner HG for the same 10.4:1 compression. It's a 5MT. No HP goals just want a good strong running engine.

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Crank wasn't balanced they polished it and checked the balance said it was within spec. So I guess I'm good. I think I'm just going to stick with standard size.

 

 

Yes .001 gram wont affect this build or maybe the EJ25D is that sensitive :lol:

 

You find a deal on internal yet ?

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Why are you fooling around with a EJ then :lol: nice line up of vehicles you got there :rolleyes:

 

I've always liked the subies and decided I'd start with old and cheap before I went new and expesive.

 

Is the 330xi AWD?

 

Yes all BMWs with "x" in the model are AWD. The "x" stands for x-drive.

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Just ordered new piston rings and all the block seals from Subaru. Also got some new timing covers since all mine are cracked. Even spent a good couple hours cleaning the block in our parts washer. I've decided to paint the block a nice bright orange enamel. Also do you think it's worth it to have the crank polished? There doesn't appear to be any damage to the crank from the rod bearing. Some pics...

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IMG_0467SM.thumb.JPG.26ed72aa70e1cd86305ac58e5fbdbbba.JPG

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Got the cylinders hoaned last night and cleaned the block some more. I was talking with on of our older techs and he suggested using tide and hot water to clean the cylinder after hoaning. Apparently the foaming of tide lifts the shavings out of the crosshatches which does a better job than normal soap and water.

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IMG_0484SM.thumb.JPG.3384b50a9b949aa2c9b6dcedb95a9952.JPG

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I thought about blue but I figured I'd be different. I haven't made up my mind completly so I'm going to go look at some colors here before too long. One thing I was worried about it the nice score line in the one cylinder. I can't feel it with my nail and I tried a little extra hoaning to get rid of it but it won't seem to go away. Should I be worried?
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I noticed that score on the wall if it is flush then no problem but if it is recessed that bore wont hold compression over the long haul. And boring it over can fix it BUT if you take off too much you compromise cylinder wall integrity and risk having one grossly larger cylinder than the other three
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