Highflyr Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Hey found a block now I need some internals for it. I have a good crank but pistons are done. Rods seem to be ok but I'd like to replace them if the price is right. Any thoughts on a company that has a complete rebuild kit for a decent price? I'd like to keep it under $500. Block is going to the shop tomorrow for a hot dip cleaning and honing. I'm not doing turbo or strokers or any other crazy stuff. Just looking for durable parts that will last. Thanks for the help in advance. Pics to come. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 $500 is going to be a stretch your crank may need machining and depending on how much, it may be better to buy a new crank or risk tolerance issues on the rod bearings. New pistons, rods, rings, bearings, and bolts are going to cost you more than $500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 Thanks. I'm starting to realize that. Only thing I have found so far is this, but it seems to be a no name brand. Not sure I want to use something like that. Same thing from Subaru is going to run me about twice as much and that's with an employee discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 Oh and as far as the crank goes I have one from another EJ25D that had a cracked block. It's at the machine shop getting polished as we speak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 http://www.trademotion.com/schematics/mechanical/F732057.gif follow this link : http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214857&chapter=&Sectionids=10,0&groupid=10044&subgroupid=62197&componentid=0&make=32&model=Impreza&year=1997&graphicID=F732057&callout=32&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0 You will be able to get all your parts for close to your budget if you can't find a cheaper option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted July 18, 2011 Author Share Posted July 18, 2011 Thanks for the help Gee-otto. I was actually able to source the parts from my dealer. I work for a large automotive company that owns a Subaru dealership and was able to get employee discount on all the parts. I'm hoping to get the block back from the machine shop today and get it measured. Once I get it measured I can order the correct sized pistons, rings and bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Thanks for the help Gee-otto. I was actually able to source the parts from my dealer. I work for a large automotive company that owns a Subaru dealership and was able to get employee discount on all the parts. I'm hoping to get the block back from the machine shop today and get it measured. Once I get it measured I can order the correct sized pistons, rings and bearings. Oh so they are honing and decking a considerable amount to get the block true? Well the phase Ej25D has the same bore as Ej251, 99.5mm but it would take a lot to step up to the 100mm piston. You may need slightly larger rings but that is the easy part once you get measurements. Great you got the parts at a much lower rate than retail. I would stick to OEM Head gaskets and dont skimp for the FEL PRO set if the heads are toast you can find sets for sale on NASIOC or RS25.com fairly easy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 The shop is doing a dip and checking the deck. If it needs decking I'm going to have them do it. I'm doing the honing at my shop. I need to measure to see if I need size A or size B pistons. For the gaskets I'm getting the complete engine set from Subaru. Part # 10105AA401. My understanding is this comes with everything except valve cover gaskets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 The shop is doing a dip and checking the deck. If it needs decking I'm going to have them do it. I'm doing the honing at my shop. I need to measure to see if I need size A or size B pistons. For the gaskets I'm getting the complete engine set from Subaru. Part # 10105AA401. My understanding is this comes with everything except valve cover gaskets? Yes that has everything to seal her up and I think the valve covers and spark tube seals are a separate pack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 Got the block and crank back from the machine shop. Crank is all polished up and ready to go. Does anyone have the stock dimensions for rod and main journals? According to the Haynes manual I have I have the incorrect crank (2.2L not 2.5L). My rod journals measure about 52mm instead of 48mm. I'm wondering if there was a typo in the book since I pulled the crank out of a block that had never been opened or if it had they did a very good job putting it back together. Also does anyone know how to decode the letters/numbers on the crank. Also have pictures of all the cylinders before the honing. I'll be honing on Friday after my new bore gauge comes in. Block still need all the old silicone removed and all the bolt holes tapped. Also going to clean the outside of the block and prep it for paint tomorrow. Thinking about do just a gloss black. Any other ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 Oh yeah I know what the block markings are but unsure about the Main bearing sizes. how do I convert the 21122 to bearing size? I know the AB is piston size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 These are the dimensions I came up with. Can anyone verify that this is a 2.5L crank? Thanks.1744_001.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 First off you have a Phase 2 block and Phase 1 crank The Phase 1 had the 48mm journal bearings the phase 2 has the 52mm You probably picked from a mislabeled Short block. You will need to find a EJ25 Phase 2 crank. they are cheap used Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 I can't use Phase 2 rods in the phase 1 block? The mains measure the same size on both cranks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 I can't use Phase 2 rods in the phase 1 block? The mains measure the same size on both cranks. The P2 blocks have the thrust bearings moved from the third to the fifth and the phase 1 had a shorter stroke that the phase two. If you use phase 1 rods in a phase 2 youll be severely down on power I would try to confirm the block you pulled that crank from was in fact a phase 2. Even if you cant there is no way to make a a crank work with that large a tolerance gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted July 25, 2011 Author Share Posted July 25, 2011 well then that's the nail in to coffin. I can get a reman short block from Subaru for $1900 which only $100 more than the cost of parts to rebuild(including the crank). Thanks for all the help Gee-Otto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Sorry to bring bad news but if your'e looking for a running EJ25D i would check RS25.com or NASIOC.com first you will see the EJ25D's for sale in running condition from time to time for a very good price. If you just want to pay the money and have a solid engine then i would go the other route or possibly find a reputable EJ engine rebuilder you can get the EJ25 long block for good prices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted July 25, 2011 Author Share Posted July 25, 2011 Know any builders in the DC area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Know any builders in the DC area? Yeah IAG Performance and Mach V ive dealt with directly and both have good staff and stand up practices. Are you looking to build a block or rather source a replacement running long block ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted July 25, 2011 Author Share Posted July 25, 2011 All depends on the price. I'm not looking for anything fancy. Just trying to get a dependable engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 All depends on the price. I'm not looking for anything fancy. Just trying to get a dependable engine Well you got the block honed and dipped and you have the heads right? YOu should be able to take a builder the parts and say "put this together for me" for a good price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 There is a guy with a 98 EJ25D for $100 over on rs25.com http://www.rs25.com/forums/f177/t161928-1998-ej25d-100-a.html Check that out he said it had valve issues but nothing a rebuild cant address and the heads aren't costly to fix back up Another cheap good option: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f177/t159316-ej25-dohc-shortblock-50-a.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyr Posted July 25, 2011 Author Share Posted July 25, 2011 I can put the engine together. It's the cost of the parts that's killing the job. I'd rather not pay someone to do something that I can do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Oh i see well source a used crank and get on with it, its machined so the missing piece is the crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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