SubieDoo2.5 Posted September 23, 2020 Share Posted September 23, 2020 SO with all this discussion of using the Koni shock inserts, are there not full assembly struts from Bilstein that can be used? If I understand all that Ive read on here and many other shock threads today, I can use 08-10 WRX replacement struts(not the shells for inserts, but full assemblies) or 4th gen 2005-2009 Legacy sedan full strut assemblies, and/or coilovers for a WRX 2008-14 or legacy 2005-2014. This will be going on a 2013 Legacy sedan. Has anyone done any research on the 15+ legacy suspension on the 2010-2014 legacy's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 ^The WRX struts have the same mounting points top and bottom. However, they have lower spring perches. I read they do clear stock Legacy tire sizes though. I have KW WRX coilovers on mine and they are fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 SO with all this discussion of using the Koni shock inserts, are there not full assembly struts from Bilstein that can be used? Racecomp engineering had Bilsteins made for the 5th gen, and packaged them with their RCE Black springs a while back - long since sold out from them, but they do pop up in the for sale section from time to time. If you read through the Koni thread, there was someone who used the full assembly Koni's. I believe there are full assembly Cusco struts, as well. Not many options for the 5th gen. The Koni sport shocks (the cut a strut ones for the front with their shocks for the back) work really well - I love mine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picky1 Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 My DD 2012 Legacy Premium with 2012 Legacy GT wheels is due for new struts after over 84,000 miles. I would like to tighten things up a bit and wouldn't mind a minor drop, but don't want to put tons of money into the car as I am most likely handing it down to one of my kids in the next year or so. Therefore I was thinking of just going with the 2013-14 springs and struts (are the OEM struts the same as the KYB Excel-G struts). Does anyone have the part numbers for these items? is there anything else I should be replacing in addition to the springs & struts? TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 Might want to consider replacing the strut bearings/tophats up front. for subaru part numbers, check parts.subaru.com and for the KYB stuff, just go on rockauto. Depending on how ugly they look, you might want to replace the hardware up front (upper and lower pinch bolts/nuts for the strut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunvangelion Posted November 9, 2022 Share Posted November 9, 2022 Hello All, I have a 2011 Legacy 3.6R, to this day the car is basically stock. I am new to the forum and suspension tuning. I reside in Canada (winter road salt is a corncern.) My understanding right now is all trims (2.5i, 3.6R, 2.5GT) share similar mounting. I am trying to select coilovers for the car , my main goal is to lower the car and improve handling (or retain similar to oem). My car is daily driver. I have narrow down to HKS (80300-AF004) - I email HKS and they said it won't work because it wasn't "tested" BC BR - they indicate it will work with stock setting 7kgf F and 6 kgf R Tein Flex Z - have not heard back Wondering if anyone can advice if they will work for the 3.6R, but concern is the 3.6R is the heaviest of all trims (I think about 80lb) more then the 2.5GT. Most of the site List the parts working for 2.5i or GT, but not the 3.6R. Would I need custom spring rate for it to work with the 3.6R to compensate for the weight? Sorry in advance if this is a newbie question, as I am just not certain how to proceed with reading too much. I understand the strut and spring is the more prefer way, but since I am so newbie, I kinda want a package solution. Thank you in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted November 9, 2022 Share Posted November 9, 2022 To just lower and retain at least stock handling, most any coilover compatible with the car will do. I have not tried any of the three options so BC confirming compatibility would put them in the lead for me at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted November 9, 2022 Share Posted November 9, 2022 fortune auto coilovers fit, they can customize spring rates and etc as well, so you can tune em towards comfort rather than stiffness etc...pricey but you get what you pay for. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunvangelion Posted November 10, 2022 Share Posted November 10, 2022 (edited) I guess BC, it is then. I just got a respond from Tein stating same thing as HKS. I heard for FA500 , but read somewhere that it need major rebuild every 50k...Don't think I want to do that for DD. Thank you for responding Edited November 10, 2022 by Gunvangelion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted November 10, 2022 Share Posted November 10, 2022 Well, most coilovers do need a rebuild much sooner than a standard strut/spring setup. Nature of the beast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunvangelion Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 (edited) Ok, so I decided to do a comparison between the coil over and strut+spring option I looked into the strut + spring option (mainly via reading this forum) and consolidated the following parts: Front strut KYB 339222 (Right) x 1 KYB 339223 (Left) x 1 KONI-8610 1447 Sport (insert) x2 (KYB Above can be use with modification to add damping adjustment) KYB SM5361 x 2 (top hat?) Rear strut KYB 340026 OR KONI-8010 1055 Sport x 2 KYB SM5764 x 2 (top hats) Spring H&R 54427-2 set of 4 corner (The -2 is 3.6R variant) - 1.3" drop, might be more due to 3.6R(heavier)? Unfortunately, Eibach is no longer an option My car is 2011 Legacy 3.6R Questions: 1) For chamber correction, Whiteline KCA326 will work for the rear, but what should be use for the front? (I understand that coil over comes with adjustment mounting plate.) 2) What other hardware (mounting nuts and bolt) should I consider replacing, but wont come with purchasing of listed part above? will check on parts.subaru.com, but just incase I miss something. 2) Anyone have photos of a 3.6R on H&R spring? I would like to see a visual for the drop? 3) Any advise and suggestion appreciated, since I am very new to this. Many Thanks in Advance Edited November 12, 2022 by Gunvangelion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coco26 Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 I have a GT with the Koni+H&R setup. You're right on the rear camber correction. Its not necessary, but definitely helps to have it to save tires. The stock camber bolts in the front still give plenty of adjustment. You shouldn't need any new hardware. The nuts that hold the top hats to the body are deformed lock nuts, so they're technically one time use, but I've never had a problem with reusing them, especially if its only once. The only other thing I'd consider is front sway bar end links. You'll have to unbolt them from the strut, and if you live in a rusty area, they can be a big pain. I chose to cut mine off and replace them. Here's a picture of my car. The extra weight of the 3.6 shouldn't cause a noticeable change in ride height, especially if you get the springs intended for it. The tires are 235/45/18, so they take up an extra 4mm of the fender gap, but also raise the car by 4mm compared to the stock tire size. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted November 13, 2022 Share Posted November 13, 2022 19 hours ago, Gunvangelion said: Ok, so I decided to do a comparison between the coil over and strut+spring option I looked into the strut + spring option (mainly via reading this forum) and consolidated the following parts: Front strut KYB 339222 (Right) x 1 KYB 339223 (Left) x 1 KONI-8610 1447 Sport (insert) x2 (KYB Above can be use with modification to add damping adjustment) KYB SM5361 x 2 (top hat?) Rear strut KYB 340026 OR KONI-8010 1055 Sport x 2 KYB SM5764 x 2 (top hats) Spring H&R 54427-2 set of 4 corner (The -2 is 3.6R variant) - 1.3" drop, might be more due to 3.6R(heavier)? Unfortunately, Eibach is no longer an option My car is 2011 Legacy 3.6R Questions: 1) For chamber correction, Whiteline KCA326 will work for the rear, but what should be use for the front? (I understand that coil over comes with adjustment mounting plate.) 2) What other hardware (mounting nuts and bolt) should I consider replacing, but wont come with purchasing of listed part above? will check on parts.subaru.com, but just incase I miss something. 2) Anyone have photos of a 3.6R on H&R spring? I would like to see a visual for the drop? 3) Any advise and suggestion appreciated, since I am very new to this. Many Thanks in Advance I suggest new bump stops front and rear too, even if they are ok now, they may be compromised and disintegrate when you lower. Camber at the front is adjustable a bit via the hub mount bolts and should be enough most of the time. For the rear I suggest the Whiteline rear arms so you can get camber equal side to side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunvangelion Posted November 13, 2022 Share Posted November 13, 2022 the bumps stops are the following parts: https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2011_Legacy-36L-5AT-4WD-R-Sedan/_54106_6025246/FRONT-SHOCK-ABSORBER/B14-210-01.html https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2011_Legacy-36L-5AT-4WD-R-Sedan/_54106_6029004/REAR-SHOCK-ABSORBER/B14-211-01.html correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Rumble Posted November 14, 2022 Share Posted November 14, 2022 (edited) KCA326 is the incorrect part if you are looking to address the rear camber. Those are only the BUSHINGS for the UPPER rear control arm. What you need is a full replacement LOWER rear control arm. KTA216A is the part number of what you need for that. Front does not need additional camber support, factory allows enough adjustment, stick with stock for that. As for a 3.6R on H&R springs, here's mine back before I swapped to Fortune Auto 500 coilovers. Wheels are 18x9 +38 on 255/40 tires. Edited November 14, 2022 by Humble Rumble 1 1 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread 5th Gen Legacy BM/BR Body Kit Compendium Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunvangelion Posted November 14, 2022 Share Posted November 14, 2022 Out of curiosity, why did you switch from strut and spring to coilovers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted November 14, 2022 Share Posted November 14, 2022 1 hour ago, Gunvangelion said: Out of curiosity, why did you switch from strut and spring to coilovers? Because he is one of the few people to actually track his car. He needs the coilovers for adjustability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Rumble Posted November 14, 2022 Share Posted November 14, 2022 (edited) ^^Yup, that's essentially it. I have tracked the car previously while on the H&R springs (which I paired with Koni Yellow adjustable shocks) and while it did handle well, I definitely felt the limits of their capabilities while on track. Aesthetically as well, I found myself wanting more of a drop and adjustability than any set of struts/springs could offer. It also opened up the inner side of my wheels and eliminated any wheel clearance issues that might be caused by the larger spring perches of a strut assembly, so I can run much wider wheels now headache free (this is a wholly unique issue to my car and my car alone, check the link to my build thread in my signature if you want to read about that kerfuffle resulting from swapping to the JDM tS front aluminum control arm. Long story short, I lost 10mm wheel offset ONLY in the front, which gave me rub on the front struts that previously clear). To be clear, the H&R's are *phenomenal* springs for this car, and way more than adequate, comfortable, and well performing for a daily driver or even light autocross. My needs just exceeded what the setup could offer. Edited November 14, 2022 by Humble Rumble 1 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread 5th Gen Legacy BM/BR Body Kit Compendium Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted November 15, 2022 Share Posted November 15, 2022 On 11/14/2022 at 1:58 AM, Gunvangelion said: the bumps stops are the following parts: https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2011_Legacy-36L-5AT-4WD-R-Sedan/_54106_6025246/FRONT-SHOCK-ABSORBER/B14-210-01.html https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2011_Legacy-36L-5AT-4WD-R-Sedan/_54106_6029004/REAR-SHOCK-ABSORBER/B14-211-01.html correct? Correct! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loya1ty Posted November 29, 2022 Share Posted November 29, 2022 I don't know what shipping would be to CAD, but I'm most likely going to be putting stock suspension back on before selling my car and will be listing the Koni insert + H&R setup for sale. We could look into cost if that's the setup you're interested in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted November 30, 2022 Share Posted November 30, 2022 how many miles on your konis? if shipping doesn't work, and you want a stock suspension...i'm down in richmond, could be up for a swap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loya1ty Posted December 20, 2022 Share Posted December 20, 2022 On 11/30/2022 at 8:04 AM, creep_nu said: how many miles on your konis? if shipping doesn't work, and you want a stock suspension...i'm down in richmond, could be up for a swap... About 30k on the setup. I've got stocks that I'm going to swap in at some point coming up. For those with the H&R setups.. you think I could get away with a 225/60 r17 snow tire? Decent deal locally for a set but they were off an outback. I like the idea of more sidewall, but might be a little snug/rubbing. My tires now are 215/50 r17 on a 17x7 stock wheel and I'd say I've got about another inch of clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Rumble Posted December 22, 2022 Share Posted December 22, 2022 On 12/20/2022 at 11:27 AM, Loya1ty said: About 30k on the setup. I've got stocks that I'm going to swap in at some point coming up. For those with the H&R setups.. you think I could get away with a 225/60 r17 snow tire? Decent deal locally for a set but they were off an outback. I like the idea of more sidewall, but might be a little snug/rubbing. My tires now are 215/50 r17 on a 17x7 stock wheel and I'd say I've got about another inch of clearance. I'd say stop at 55 side wall, 60 is likely to rub on the H&R. For reference here's my car two winters ago with 215/55/17 on the stock 17x7.5's, on H&Rs. I wouldn't go bigger than this at this height. https://www.instagram.com/p/CH65K9qJxVy/ 1 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread 5th Gen Legacy BM/BR Body Kit Compendium Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loya1ty Posted December 22, 2022 Share Posted December 22, 2022 yeah, those are tucked in there lol I considered just going to the guy and test fitting them for a quick ride around the block and some bumps. but i think i'm just trying to manifest it to work for the deal since I'm not seeing much out there at the moment. guess I'll be more patient Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copyboy311 Posted March 2, 2023 Share Posted March 2, 2023 Looking for help diagnosing some front-end noise on my 2011 Legacy. A little history: Had the struts replaced about 20k miles ago and then recently had the ball joints and brakes/calipers replaced. The car is now making extremely annoying clunking noises over rough roads from the front end suspension, most noticeable at speeds under 50 mph. Sounds like a box of rocks being shaken. No noise on smooth roads, and the worst of it is mostly dampened at speeds over 50. I do know that some of the bushings in the control arms are toast, and I will be replacing the arms next. Is there anything else under there that might be causing this noise? The guy who did the ball joints and brakes says nothing he can see is loose or failing, other than the bushings. He did say one of the (not very old) struts is leaking, but I can't see how that would cause this noise. Is it likely the control arms and bushings will clear this up? What else could be replaced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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