Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

hansvonaxion's JDM 1996 Legacy GT-B


Recommended Posts

I love my 20R and I don't have the torque curve problems that you do because mine is pretty modified.

 

I'm curious to drive a stock 20R and see how it compares to mine.

 

Do you know which mods in particular helped get rid of it?

 

The axle back exhaust helped to some degree, it's a lot less pronounced and now just a little annoying.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply
  • I Donated
Do you know which mods in particular helped get rid of it?

 

The axle back exhaust helped to some degree, it's a lot less pronounced and now just a little annoying.

 

Couldnt really tell you because mine is far from stock

 

stand alone ecu

protune

ford edis ignition w/msd

converted to single TD04 - rotated

3 inch turboback exhaust

custom up / downpipe - catless

660 injectors

front mount intercooler

 

In your case, its probably related to the factory ECU. Try running a piggyback system on it with a custom dyno tune. I bet you would see a world of difference

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think some are worse than others fella, you could try Nutty's lil' box of tricks and other Mods if your VOD is that noticeable Hans?

 

Russ!:cool:

 

Ps Nice clean BG fella!:wub:

 

It probably isn't any worse than most, in fact only having 50,000k's it's probably better than most. What I was getting at was that if a simple ECU+tune can fix the VOD, or a guy called nutbeam with some plastic tube, I don't see why Subaru couldn't have done it before releasing it, or in the decade of so afterwards. :p

 

I drove an S401 and that's how it should be. Boost and then some more boost.

 

Actually I have to investigate Nutty's fix more, I haven't been on the forums long.

 

And thanks.

 

 

Couldnt really tell you...

 

converted to single TD04 - rotated

 

Well it wasn't that hard! :lol:

 

In your case, its probably related to the factory ECU. Try running a piggyback system on it with a custom dyno tune. I bet you would see a world of difference

 

I'm still thinking about a Zerosports sequential controller. I have to do more reading and maybe make a couple of threads to get the info I need before taking the next step.

 

Also I want to take it to a track to see how it feels when giving it the beans. Most of the time on the street I just take it to 4,000rpm and that gives a fair amount of torque while avoiding the dip. On a track it might be possible to keep both turbos spinning.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I've seen a few Prova ECU's for sale really cheap but it's difficult to find an exact match. The only one that seems like a possible match from the info given is more than twice the price of the others! I think it's a better option than the sequential controller if I can get one cos it's about the same price but does a lot more.

 

I decided to re-do the earthing kit to add a point or two and use different locations, also swapped all the plugs, added some solder and used shrink wrap instead of the supplied covers (on most of them, anyway).

 

I can go into detail if anyone wants to see.

 

Edit: how do I remove the panel to access the snorkus? If I take the wheel off is it easy to see what needs to be done?

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/earthingfinal1.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/earthingfinal.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey buddy, that gives the earthing kit???

 

Google translate didn't work this time. :confused:

 

Where did I buy it?

The local hardware store for $20. But I bought different plugs and some shrink-wrap and I soldered the connections (sort of) when I installed it this time.

 

Who installed it?

Me.

 

Here's more detail...

 

The battery

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/earhingfinal2.jpg

 

The extra connection near the battery

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/earthingfinal7.jpg

 

The firewall

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/earthingfinal3.jpg

 

Intake manifold and nearby bracket

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/earthingfinal4.jpg

 

Power steering reservior

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/earthingfinal5.jpg

 

Driver's side tower

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/earthingfinal6.jpg

 

I have a Prova ECU coming my way. :)

 

Wouldn't mind fitting a boost gauge first so I can check any difference it makes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the ECU fitted and got my Prova bonnet dampers today and whacked 'em on. Went with carbon instead of gold cos I think it's probably a better match with the black car. There isn't much room, they just fit in there, and I think the bonnet sits a fraction higher across the middle.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/bonnetdampers1.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/bonnetdampers2.jpg

 

Next I probably need to tackle the nasty insulation under the bonnet. Can anyone say whether it's a mistake to just take it off? I'm guessing the only place I can get a replacement is from Subaru and that it'll cost a fortune.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Recently had the TPS changed due to error code.

 

Removed the bonnet insulation; can't notice much more noise probably due to the exhaust note, but now I'm thinking it may also be heat insulation?

 

Installed STi front strut bar. Hopefully a Cusco carbon rear bar to follow.

 

Installed Zerosports sequential controller...

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/SQC_1.jpg

 

I was thinking of covering it with a panel and made a quick prototype...

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/SQC_2.jpg

 

But now I'm thinking I might leave it showing and just make a surround for it. Damn that ZS harness is impossible to fit under the kick panel... let's just say I have a little less legroom on the passenger side now.

 

FYI ZS are now selling new units for £240/€270US$390 and the harness for less than half that (my dashboard widget just stopped working), I got a harness from them to avoid chopping my stock one but the main unit was really cheap from a second hand shop.

 

Edit: There was a Legacy day at Autobacs recently, here's a few pics.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/Autobacslegacyevent08.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/Autobacslegacyevent06.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/Autobacslegacyevent05.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/Autobacslegacyevent01.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/Autobacslegacyevent02.jpg

 

And from the car park.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/Autobacslegacyevent04.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/Autobacslegacyevent09.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/Autobacslegacyevent07.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/Autobacslegacyevent03.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Where did you get the hood dampers at?

 

Got them here (Tokyo) from Upgarage, like most of the stuff I've bought.

 

So I bought a Zero/Sports centre pipe and somehow got it installed... kinda.

 

First off, there isn't enough room to get a spanner or socket in there and the bolts are rusted and seized, but getting it off turned out to be the (relatively) easy part... trying to put on the new pipe I had to push the spring bolts through enough to get the nut on the end, but the last centimeter was so corroded the bolt just slipped on and off... argh. So I have some regular bolts in there until I can get the proper ones from Subaru. (yeah I know I should have bought new bolts before I started, what can I say?)

 

As for the pipe, it isn't louder, or deeper, but a little Linda Lovelace. I like it. Haven't had a chance to test drive it much and the ECU had been reset when I did, but when I hit the secondary... damn. Looking forward to some more "testing". At just off full throttle it feels great, no VOD but good acceleration.

 

The JASMA plate had come off so I had to fix it. I assumed the JASMA plate signified compliance with the law for street registered vehicles, but after I got it I realised it said "for race use only". Don't know if I can pass shaken with it on but that won't happen for 2 more years and I'll probably sell it or send it back to Oz before then anyway.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/centrepipedudrivet.jpg

 

Bought a cheap hand riveter and fixed it...

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/bothrivets.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So I did a new vid including the centre pipe, sorry for the change in angle, and a quick drive-by...

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gff6TV9KsmU]Subaru Legacy BG5 stock exhaust vs Apexi N1 Bomber vs ZeroSports centre pipe + Apexi N1 Bomber - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbWqeUwzY-k]Subaru Legacy BG5 Apexi N1 Bomber + ZeroSports centre pipe drive by - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/exhaustfitted.jpg

 

 

 

And I got the Rockford Fosgate 5ch amp and PPI 12" sub in. Covered the box with some carpet, cost me $5! It isn't proper speaker box felt but you can't argue with the price.

 

 

 

Original...

 

 

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/suboriginal.jpg

 

 

 

Covered...

 

 

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/subcovered.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Got some TEIN super flex wagon coilovers .

 

Here's a few ride height comparison pics. Should drop 40mm standard height, seemed to drop about 35mm in front and 30mm in back (just used the settings as they were when I bought them used).

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/sus3.gif

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/sus1.gif

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/sus2.gif

 

 

 

It's a fairly small drop in the scheme of things but I think it's just enough. When reversing into a parking space I scrape the muffler on the kerb. Need to do something about that.

 

The ride is firm. For the roads around here which are ridiculously bad, it's actually too firm (for a GT cruiser wagon). I started at halfway 8/16 and then went full soft 16/16 (recommended starting point). Full soft is still firm but there was slight float when taking one of my favourite corners so I put it at 12/16. I was thinking about the EDFC cabin controller but there's so little difference it isn't worth it IMO. Need to get to a track to have a proper run.

 

The firm ride seems to have brought back some interior rattles so I'll need to sort that out... again. Surprisingly the wife hasn't complained about the ride and her and the kid can sleep in the back when I take it easy.

 

There is a yump near my place (actually lots) and when I took it on the billies at 80-90ish they would bottom out so I tried on these to see if they would bottom out and I got airborne instead!

 

In other news, I bought a Mine's ECU to compare to the Prova one I have now, doesn't seem to be much different ATM, similar tunes.

 

And I went to Yabitsu pass with a guy I know from a different forum, here's a short vid.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0cT5p74Gns]Subaru Legacy BG5 GT-B Yabitsu Pass 03 - YouTube[/ame]

 

Oh and as you can see in the vid I have a dash mat.

 

Gotta say the turbo loves the cold weather.

 

And I have a small oil leak onto the exhaust manifold so now I get smoke coming out from under the bonnet for a while after they get hot until it burns off. Pretty scary the first time it happened.

 

Bought some studless tyres for a possible drive up to Fukushima so will probably get some new summer rims.

 

And have some 4 pots on the way for the front.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Installed some under-bonnet bling today. I thought this had an extra fin to divert air evenly over the intercooler but it's pretty much exactly the same as the stock thingy, just looks better.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/coolaction1.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/coolaction2.jpg

 

After pulling off parts of my dash numerous times I've finally realised the rattle that's been driving me nuts is the piece of plastic on the back of the steering wheel, I figured I'd just tighten the screws but it turns out there are none. I was thinking the easiest fix would just be some electrical wiring tape but does anyone have any better ideas?

 

After buying some rims with the wrong offset I've just gone and bought some SSR's... I can't stop impulse buying lately. Probably try to sell the OZ's I bought and get some cheap BE/BH rims for winter instead.

 

Painting the 4 pots now, can't install them until I get the wheels sorted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well after all the drama I've had (and still having) I finally have some Sweet Sexy Rims.

 

Wonder if anyone can see why I got them "cheap".

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/ssrwheels1.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/ssrwheels3.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/ssrwheels2.jpg

 

And I've been painting the calipers. Choosing the colour was the hardest part, finally chose carbon grey metallic. Wasn't sure whether to paint the lettering or not, choosing that colour was also just as difficult, finally got gold. Not sure if I'm happy yet, maybe need to see them on the car.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/hansvonaxion/Legacy/caliperpaint1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They usually sell for around $250-350 or more but I got mine for about $125...

 

The paint cost $90, the overhaul (seal) kit was $30 and new pads cost nearly $200...more than the calipers!

 

Chief if you want any parts let me know and I'll have a look for you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They usually sell for around $250-350 or more but I got mine for about $125...

 

The paint cost $90, the overhaul (seal) kit was $30 and new pads cost nearly $200...more than the calipers!

 

Chief if you want any parts let me know and I'll have a look for you.

Thank's buddy! I bought callipers from Legacy 3.0 Bl with brake disk 315мм with pads HAwk, but your caliper best

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bigger 315mm discs will give you better stopping power but they probably add unsprung weight.

 

I fitted the 4 pots yesterday but haven't had a chance to properly try them yet.

 

Chief, anything you need let me know, it's easier to get aftermarket items than OEM.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use