mcg_ Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 BP'ed my TMIC last weekend. Used threaded rods, rounded nuts (with lock washers) on the bottom and these flanged thingers (see pictures) for the top. Engine cover fits fine, but BPV hose does slightly touch upper, right side. Not really what to do to prevent it -- thinking about shielding the BPV hose with some metal such that the AL rails does cut through the poly of the BPV hose..... Oh, also, I used heatshrink wrap around the threaded rods. http://i.imgur.com/BXJFVh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/s9tGth.jpg http://i.imgur.com/goqBBh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/BSn5fh.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcg_ Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Also, just my 2 cents. Cutting the AL channel with a dremel tool and cut-off wheels was not time efficient. I used my angle grinder, but then had to do a lot of dremel tool cleanup/grinding since the angle grinder made a mess of the AL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schrei Wolf Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Also, just my 2 cents. Cutting the AL channel with a dremel tool and cut-off wheels was not time efficient. I used my angle grinder, but then had to do a lot of dremel tool cleanup/grinding since the angle grinder made a mess of the AL. +1 Angle Grinder made life so much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeeeeeYa Posted April 26, 2012 Author Share Posted April 26, 2012 Inventive use of bolt hardware... but its larger diameter does present more thickness to deal with. You shouldn't have a problem with the recirc hose because of interference, however, the shrink wrap lets things slide instead of abrade. There you go... one more. One more BulletProofed Intercooler, one more variation on a theme. Boost is now your friend instead of adversary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcg_ Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Installed a bunch of bits this weekend (DP, UP, etc.) and took IC off. After one week of driving, the BPV hose already had "thread" impressions on it -- the threads of the threaded rod on that side cut through the shrink wrap and rubbed into the hose..... Cut a 2 inch by 1 inch strip of tin (metal flashing tin) and coiled it around the BPV hose where it would contact the threaded rod. Will report back whether its a successful fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACKeNeD Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 I did a combination of threaded rod and lock nuts on the Turbo side, and then i did the Stainless steel zip ties on the drivers side. This way, I don't have to worry about clearance by the BPV. Everything is buttoned up, so i will post pics the next time I have my engine cover off. I have run a few logs since, and so far, so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Installed a bunch of bits this weekend (DP, UP, etc.) and took IC off. After one week of driving, the BPV hose already had "thread" impressions on it -- the threads of the threaded rod on that side cut through the shrink wrap and rubbed into the hose..... Cut a 2 inch by 1 inch strip of tin (metal flashing tin) and coiled it around the BPV hose where it would contact the threaded rod. Will report back whether its a successful fix. I did a combination of threaded rod and lock nuts on the Turbo side, and then i did the Stainless steel zip ties on the drivers side. This way, I don't have to worry about clearance by the BPV. Everything is buttoned up, so i will post pics the next time I have my engine cover off. I have run a few logs since, and so far, so good. Where did you get the SS zip ties? I didn't realize they made those. I ran into the same issues on the BPV side - as soon as I TRIED to install, I realized it was going to rub, and took that side off. SeeeeYa didn't want to believe me, but I know what my eyes saw.. Some SS zip ties would be a good idea for that side. Also, if I had MAD fabrication skills (I wish!), I've thought about extending the brackets on one side and using rivets or a bolt (like a hinge) to attach the top piece to the side piece in the front, and another on the bottom. Then you'd just have to rotate the two longer pieces into place and close up at the back where there's plenty of room.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 I got some at LOWES. Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACKeNeD Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 I got mine off of amazon. Pack of 25. I should have checked lowes or home depot, but I don't ever remember seeing them there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farfrumwork Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 I ordered mine from McMasterCarr, http://www.mcmaster.com/#zip-ties/=hcfuqa PN 6898K66 (33" SS cable ties, pack of 5) I found some at the local HW store as well, but they were not long enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeeeeeYa Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 Where did you get the SS zip ties? I didn't realize they made those. I ran into the same issues on the BPV side - as soon as I TRIED to install, I realized it was going to rub, and took that side off. SeeeeYa didn't want to believe me, but I know what my eyes saw.. It is important to note that the problem was greatly exacerbated because of using a LARGE bolt. Secondly, from the photo, the shrink tubing was not properly shrunk onto the bolt. Further, the "bolt" on that side in the kit I supplied was ground flat facing the recirc hose... THEN shrink wrap properly installed. This way the bolt's intrusion into the clearance was very minimal AND there are NO threads to abrade the recirc hose. Those with this system installed have never had an issue. Some SS zip ties would be a good idea for that side. Also, if I had MAD fabrication skills (I wish!), I've thought about extending the brackets on one side and using rivets or a bolt (like a hinge) to attach the top piece to the side piece in the front, and another on the bottom. Then you'd just have to rotate the two longer pieces into place and close up at the back where there's plenty of room My first iteration of this mod involved precisely this idea... it did not work, however. One, there is simply too much "stuff" under the TMIC on the driver's side to allow passage of the rail, and I screwed the TMIC's fins up in the process of installing it. Later I had to spend a lot of time straightening out those areas. Secondly, the rails fit very tightly, and must be firmly tapped into place... even with the TMIC on a bench. It isn't possible to simply "wrap" a properly fitting rail system onto the TMIC. I know, I tried. In the end I had to remove my TMIC, fix the fins, then properly tap the rails into place, and tighten the bolts. .. All that said, I am liking the SS zip-band idea a lot. It does the job, has no clearance issues, and looks good. This may wind up being the best solution to keeping the rails on the TMIC. Great work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedDawg Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 i'll have a BP kit, unused but cut to size with all bolts, coming up for sale soon. decided to go with an ebay TMIC kit instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 (edited) noob question how do you tighten the steel straps? There seems to be some play and cant get them super tight like zip ties my non straight cutting, feels like the steel straps can slip off over time edit:nevermind, i actually took time to read farfrumworks post:lol: I bought a cable/zip tie gun from harbor freight for $9 and plastic zip ties w/ metal locking clips, we'll see how that goes. the gun supposedly can put up tp 90lbs of tension on the cable tie. the cable tie i bought supports 50lbs of tension/preload - one of those:lol:, and the gun does not work w/ stainless steel ties Edited May 10, 2012 by underground000 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm200 Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Thanks for the idea and plans, can rest easy now at stg2 boost levels. Engine cover fits perfect, no cutting or prying whatsoever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeeeeeYa Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 I'm not sure what impresses me most... your excellent work or how clean your engine is. You guys constantly amaze me with your skills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm200 Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 I'm not sure what impresses me most... your excellent work or how clean your engine is. You guys constantly amaze me with your skills. Actually just cleaned it a few weeks ago . Gunk engine degreaser and CD2 detailer, took maybe 20mins. But seriously, thanks again for the idea, for what my current plans are, you've saved me a substantial amount of money for an intercooler. Tried getting an aftermarket one used, but that's another story. . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerpenguin21 Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 anybody have a parts kit they want to sell? too lazy to do the minor fab work these days haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave7 Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 I just tried to fabricate this kit and I'm realizing I don't have the proper tools to do it. I live in an apartment and the dremel is so LOUD and time consuming to use. Does anyone have any tips on how to cut the aluminum? Seriously wish I had a garage =/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 15, 2012 Moderators Share Posted June 15, 2012 I just sold a kit to another member since I had enough material to make an extra one anyway. That being said, I don't think I'd want to make anymore, and if I did I'd probably want to charge an exorbitant amount for them since they are a serious pain in the ass to make (especially cutting the aluminum along it's length). At least you should only have to do it once "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave7 Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 they are a serious pain in the ass to make (especially cutting the aluminum along it's length). At least you should only have to do it once This is the part where I'm at right now. I might just take it to a machine shop and see what they say . One of my neighbors came to the door and complained about the noise I was making . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 This is the part where I'm at right now. I might just take it to a machine shop and see what they say . One of my neighbors came to the door and complained about the noise I was making . just say, ok i'll wait till you are sleeping:lol: 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave7 Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 I just sold a kit to another member since I had enough material to make an extra one anyway. That being said, I don't think I'd want to make anymore, and if I did I'd probably want to charge an exorbitant amount for them since they are a serious pain in the ass to make (especially cutting the aluminum along it's length). At least you should only have to do it once just say, ok i'll wait till you are sleeping:lol: Yea it was like at 6pm. I'm sorry did I interrupt your CSI? But seriously, people can be so uptight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeeeeeYa Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 One of the things I've thought of, and verified it "could" be done, is to use a nibbler... but you would have to score a line and nibble right to it then file it smooth. It will take a while for sure, but it will be quiet and get it done. Radio Shack, among others, still sells nibblers, I checked sometime in the past couple of weeks. Those dimensions are important to the viability of the mod, so maintain them. In a pinch you can finish just the two long rails on the turbo-side and install them first. That will provide 90% of the security. Then as soon as you can finish and install the rest. You know what a nibbler is, right? I forgot, Google answers all. I've been using a hand nibbler for odd jobs nearly my whole life. They aren't the most sophisticated tool, but a lot depends on the user. Take your time and you can do a good job. Good for you!! Got right onto it, that's the way to do it. I'm certain it will work. Mine is always close by. Too many times I've been up against a problem, then found it solved by my nibbler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too laff79 Posted June 15, 2012 I Donated Too Share Posted June 15, 2012 I just sold a kit to another member since I had enough material to make an extra one anyway. That being said, I don't think I'd want to make anymore, and if I did I'd probably want to charge an exorbitant amount for them since they are a serious pain in the ass to make (especially cutting the aluminum along it's length). At least you should only have to do it once I would be that member who he sold the kit to. Luckily I did this mod today because my inter cooler was fubar. Wasn't even worth bp'ing. Oil leakage and multiple split/cracked tabs. Scary stuff. Luckily my boy Josh (ChefRacer) had a spare stocker in good shape in his garage. After some finagling and filing of corners, we were able to lock it down. Feelsgoodman Thanks to Barman, ChefRacer, and Seeya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 15, 2012 Moderators Share Posted June 15, 2012 I would be that member who he sold the kit to. Luckily I did this mod today because my inter cooler was fubar. Wasn't even worth bp'ing. Oil leakage and multiple split/cracked tabs. Scary stuff. Luckily my boy Josh (ChefRacer) had a spare stocker in good shape in his garage. After some finagling and filing of corners, we were able to lock it down. Feelsgoodman Thanks to Barman, ChefRacer, and Seeya. Nice. Glad to hear the end result was good. I had to file some corners on the intercooler as well. Ripping an 8' piece of aluminum channel on a table saw is ******* scary!!! :eek: But worth it? Because intercoolers be expensive "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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