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grounding mod


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Why ahve all forums seemed to come to this. These are places to share information and help each other. Every post that does not pertain to the threads topic gets in the way of someones research. Post in off topic for socializing or cheesey jokes

 

Anthony

 

i was trying to make it obvious that you're all just feeding rao. unless you get a PhD to come in here and explain it all and cite specific sources and have an award winning presentation, you're not gonna "prove" anything.

 

for the record, I don't think the grounding mod or big 3 are a bad idea to do to your car at all. i haven't done them (yet), but that doesn't mean you guys shouldn't. i've always thought it's a good touch for the electrical system.

 

i would like to see a video of before/after if that does ever happen though. would be nice to put some hard evidence behind the theory.

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really any voltage drop is noticable, it just matters whether or not its enough for you to do anything about it. so you know that when your car is off a battery sits at around 12.6. when you turn the car on, the alternator boosts the voltage to 13.8-14.4 generally. that increase by itself is noticeable in the car audio industry. basically the ideal situation is to have as high of voltage as possible without damaging electrical components which is around 16-18 volts depending on the car. personally my legacy ran at 15.5 volts until i installed a h.o. alternator. now i dropped it down to 14.7 considering i dont need the extra current and voltage that puts out. standard 8 gauge wire can handle around 500 watts safely or roughly 40 amps of current....wait a minute...so if a factory alt such as our legacy has a stock alt of 110 on a 05 then were not getting the full amount of current to the battery. you can push the 8 gauge up to about 60a before any melting or burning of the wire would incur. 4 gauge can handle about 80-100 amps. 1/0 gauge can do upwards of 300 amps. that will give the alternator the least resistance so there will be very little if any fluctuation in current/voltage flow. make sense? these references are calculated via 12.6v base. these numbers do go up when the voltage goes up but the wire is still limited by current ratings so there is only so much you can do with the stock wiring, alt, or battery. i hope this kinda helped.

 

Unfortunately this doesn't help at all. According to your post every Legacy made should have melted ground wires due to the output of the stock alternator. So far that hasn't happened.

 

 

i was trying to make it obvious that you're all just feeding rao. unless you get a PhD to come in here and explain it all and cite specific sources and have an award winning presentation, you're not gonna "prove" anything.

 

for the record, I don't think the grounding mod or big 3 are a bad idea to do to your car at all. i haven't done them (yet), but that doesn't mean you guys shouldn't. i've always thought it's a good touch for the electrical system.

 

i would like to see a video of before/after if that does ever happen though. would be nice to put some hard evidence behind the theory.

 

Some simple answers to some simple questions would get the job done. That doesn't seem likely to happen though.

 

 

I rewired my car with welding cable, even the indicators, and the difference is amazing !

 

:rolleyes:

 

 

What brand and color did you use? Was it directional?

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I've read that Miller works better.

 

That tri-directional stuff is marketing BS.

 

That depends on what you mean by better. I heard it allows the electricity to flow smoother, but that's not always a good thing.

 

I was going to change my wires to AC wiring, that will allow the electricity to flow both ways.

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Don't use AC wiring. DC wires allow the electrons to flow from one end to another. Since AC wires only allow the electrons to bounce back and forth, you won't get enough electron flow where you need it.

 

A DC wire is like a garden hose. Electrons just fall out the end of it.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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Mweiner ,

 

I guess the difference in ac/dc wiring you mentioned explains why my home wording is like a single copper strand vs. The stuff I use on the cars which is a multi-strand.

 

I can't believe o never put 2 & 2 together

 

Thanks for the info

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So electricity will always find its way to ground ?

 

How do they ground electricity on ships :confused:

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I hate to interrupt the epic sarcasm, but I'll chime in with my limited experience with a grounding kit. When I bought my OBXT, it had a rough idle. A few months later I installed a 20mm sway bar, SPT intake and a Buddy Club Grounding Kit - idle smoothed right out. I no longer have the SPT intake, but my idle is still smooth. :iam:

 

Anyway, I tried using DC wire on a stereo install, but electrons kept leaking out and getting all over my nice WeatherTech floor liners.

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Mweiner ,

 

I guess the difference in ac/dc wiring you mentioned explains why my home wording is like a single copper strand vs. The stuff I use on the cars which is a multi-strand.

 

I can't believe o never put 2 & 2 together

 

Thanks for the info

 

:lol:

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hahaha. what is the product in that link? has some sort of blue box that i dont know what it's doing.

 

It appears to be a sort of JDM engineered grounding module.

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first of all, your not being productive to this thread whatsoever. secondly, everything electrical has a operating voltage, most car electronics fall under the 10-16 volt range, so anything less will shut it off and anything more will put it it protect mode if the product has it. as for what voltage is acceptable is completely up to the person, i personally don't settle for any dimming period, which is why i have a h.o. alternator with the proper gauge wire, and the batteries to go along with it. if someone wants to tolerate dimming(voltage drop) that's ultimately up to them. and yes obviously 24volt systems are superior and is why cars are starting to be 24volt or 36. it cuts the current needed drastically so you dont have to use thicker gauge wire or go to can wires like all new cars are so they can cut down on how many wires the car needs to send voltage and/or communication to bcm/pcm, etc. voltage fluctuations are only normal if you have a completely unmodified car electrically speaking which is also iffy because factory alternators run at generally 85% of its full output so adding anything aftermarket or turning on all accy's in the car on such as ac, headlights, hazards, stereo, etc on will also cause fluctuations. and before you say anything as well, upgrading you grounds and power cable from the alternator will only do so much because the alternator only produces so much. BUT it WILL cause less voltage drop significantly than not doing it at all. there are too many scenarios and every car and electrical load is different so you cant just be ignorant to everything. everything i just stated is proven and backed up by any credible company or testing facility, like UL or MECP or ASE or ICAR, etc. you pick. you can go all day because i can keep explaining facts all day too.

 

just out of curiosity, what cars have you encountered that are running a 24volt or 36volt system?

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