dr_sharp Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Is this kit worth it? You get timing belt, tensioner, all pulleys, and water pump for $275 (big sale). I need this soon, so I was thinking of picking it up. Does anybody know if the belt in this kit is the kevlar belt? Are all gates belts kevlar? If nobody knows, I'll email FBP. Thanks lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 21, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted February 21, 2011 I ordered one for my engine rebuild. The belt is kevlar in this package. I'm not sure about anything else by Gates. You better get it by tomorrow. That price is a steal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 Ah, didn't know tomorrow was last day, thanks for info. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TankTread Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Thanks for the heads up guys. I just purchased a kit as well. How many miles are you doing your timing chain replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 I have just under 80k miles, planning on doing the replacement at 90k miles. I also drive like I stole the car, though. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 What effect could that possibly have on the timing belt? Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 It spins more frequent and experiences more transients than most lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 That is nonsense. Change the timing belt whenever you like but don't pretend that your driving has any effect on its life - you might confuse newbs looking for actual information Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 You are incorrect. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 OK. That's good to know. So what is the proper recommended change interval for the timing belt? 30k miles if your drift 45k miles is you live your life 1/4 mile at at time 60k miles if you drive it like you stole it (in which case you are 20k miles late 95k miles if you drive the car "spiritedly" 105k miles if you drive like an old lady and don't care about your car? Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 You are incorrect. No, he isn't. The easiest proof-in-point? The owners manual. There is no "severe duty" change interval. I could run the numbers, but it's pointless to do so. Driving at higher RPM is actually BETTER for the life of the timing belt than pussy-footing around is. To replace your timing belt at 80k is spending money prematurely. Even the 105k interval provides significant margin of safety. The 105k interval is, probably, more for sake of the tensioner and idlers. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 WTF? I change my timing belt every time I do my headgasket. Which is every time I rotate my tires, of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 21, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted February 21, 2011 I had mind done at 80k because the tensioner was going bad. I'm doing it again though because my car frequently orbits the sun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 I called my local dealer this morning to check on pricing for a timing belt change. They said it was four hours and costs $500. I asked them what it includes and they said, it ONLY includes the timing belt. No water pump, no tensioner, no drive belts, nothing else, but they will "check everything over" while they are in there. Hence, I ordered my kit today and will install it myself. Also ordered thermostat and all new coolant hoses and an AVO MAF hose. My wallet hates me now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 21, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted February 21, 2011 But you car loves you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 OK. That's good to know. So what is the proper recommended change interval for the timing belt? 30k miles if your drift 45k miles is you live your life 1/4 mile at at time 60k miles if you drive it like you stole it (in which case you are 20k miles late 95k miles if you drive the car "spiritedly" 105k miles if you drive like an old lady and don't care about your car? Why are you asking me? You clearly know everything there is to know about this car. I'm perfectly willing to listen to any well reasoned argument stating that timing belt "wear" is independent of driving intensity, but none have been presented here. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 Driving at higher RPM is actually BETTER for the life of the timing belt than pussy-footing around is. Why lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Why are you asking me? You clearly know everything there is to know about this car. I'm perfectly willing to listen to any well reasoned argument stating that timing belt "wear" is independent of driving intensity, but none have been presented here. Actually you seem to be the one that knows since you know that I am wrong. That is why I was asking you for advice. I'd like to know why Subaru seems to think that 105k miles is an appropriate interval and to sort out when I should change my timing belt. I suppose the answer would involve thinking about what the timing belt actually does Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangendsley Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Replace it at 105k when subaru says to. How do you know the tensioner is wearing out? Hell i bet all the parts go bad before the belt does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 21, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted February 21, 2011 The tensioner makes a rhythmic screeching sound from within the timing cover (at least mine did). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Why are you asking me? You clearly know everything there is to know about this car. I'm perfectly willing to listen to any well reasoned argument stating that timing belt "wear" is independent of driving intensity, but none have been presented here. Why Wait. You are operating on the premise that driving style changes the life of the timing belt, simply because you assume that it does? Not a great idea. 1) A timing belt does nothing more than... time the cams. It doesn't even do that in the AVCS and dual AVCS cars (not directly). The only torque the timing belt is exposed to is resistance from the cams and drag from the water pump and various idlers, which is shockingly little in relation to the design constraints of the belt. 2) You don't shift fast. No matter HOW fast you think you shift. You don't shift fast enough to have even the most remote impact on the timing belt. You CERTAINLY aren't accelerating fast enough to have an impact either. The timing belt is damped by the mass of the rotating assembly. You have to accelerate that mass at a rate capable of stretching the belt, and you arent. You probably put the belt under greater stress when you stall the car, than you do at WOT shifts. 3) Gear belts, and most belt drives, are most efficient around the 4000feet-per-minute range. I don't know the cut length of the timing belt, but finding the RPM at which the timing belt is going 4000fpm will tell you the engines most efficient RPM. For almost every car I HAVE done that for, I've found that the most efficient RPM is typically between 2800 and 3600 rpm. That's prime highway cruise speed. Pussy footing around town is going to force the timing belt to operate outside of it's peak efficiency range, and therefore shorten its life. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorbykemike Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Why because at higher belt speeds air get "trapped" between the cogs on gear & teeth on belt creating a cushion , at low belt speeds the air can escape faster = less cushion . some facts ; rapid changes in speed/load wear both belt & sprocket faster , ie; stickshift car shifted quickly/hard would be expected to wear faster than auto car . stiffer valve springs or higher volume water pump on a subie will wear a belt faster constantly changing , up down in belt speed will wear quicker than one that cruises at 3500 rpm forever , highway car vs city car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 rapid changes in speed/load wear both belt & sprocket faster , ie; stickshift car shifted quickly/hard would be expected to wear faster than auto car . stiffer valve springs or higher volume water pump on a subie will wear a belt faster constantly changing , up down in belt speed will wear quicker than one that cruises at 3500 rpm forever , highway car vs city car My thoughts exactly. I didn't even consider it until, but underhood temperatures will also be much higher when you're driving the car like you stole it. I suppose some of you also believe that the belt lasts longer at elevated temperatures as well? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 Wait. You are operating on the premise that driving style changes the life of the timing belt, simply because you assume that it does? Not a great idea. No, sir. It spins more frequent and experiences more transients than most lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 That must be why Subaru recommends a different timing belt change interval for different climates. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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