subikid90 Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 You have a ej22 kaz, they somehow work for them lol With the erj25 I have yet to hear of an aftermarket one working. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 Good point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 Lets hypothesize, for a moment, that what I am experiencing is the SAME thing that was going on right before the headgasket job. At that time, the temp gauge would go way up (I was told) even though the T-stat was "Genuine" Subaru (Fuji Heavy Industries). Might there have been a radiator problem all along? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Possible. Were the headgaskets bad when you pulled them though? The radiator could have cause them to go if it is indeed clogged. Disconnect your lower and upper rad hose and stick a hose in the upper and check for flow. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 Possible. Were the headgaskets bad when you pulled them though? The radiator could have cause them to go if it is indeed clogged. Disconnect your lower and upper rad hose and stick a hose in the upper and check for flow. This is what they looked like: http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=796&pictureid=4334 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 You can see them in a little better detail in the photo gallery here: http://www.camroncamera.com/p13166574/h3f1b0eee#h3f1b0eee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 was there black gunk in the radiator over flow bottle? sure sign. were there bubbles in the coolant in the over flow bottle when it was running HOT? sure sign is it a ej25 96 - 99 DOHC with original head gaskets? almost a sure sign they look bad to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 Yes, the inside of the coolant overflow bottle was coated with the same black pasty gunk as seen in the photo of my gloved finger on the previous page. It was throughly cleaned and sparkling before reinstallation after headgasket replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 then there is no reason to second guess your decision to replace the gaskets. on to the current problem. maybe, drain and save your coolant. and refill with plain water if it's not too cold until you figure the problem out. hate for you to wast the good stuff. and if it is too cold for plain water use a light mix to prevent a hard freeze. i did this after my ej22 swap to make sure everything was correct before i added the coolant. your t-stat ''looks'' like a subaru t-stat. most after markets are much shorter and sometime are installed up side down. oem stats cannot be installed up side down. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 Whatever the cause of overheating, I am glad to have done the headgaskets. Yes, my new T-stat could only be installed in the correct orientation. I have more coolant ordered, should be delivered next week. That is one pain in the arse about the coolant I use, there are no longer any local vendors that I know of. I used to be able to pick it up at a Mazda/Rotary racing shop in Portland, but they stopped stocking it due to shipping expenses. Once I have the coolant here, I am going to do the following things: Drain and collect coolant. Remove newly-installed T-stat, and temp-check it alongside the old dealer T-stat in a pan of heated water. Flow-check empty radiator with a water hose. Replace whatever defective component(s) necessary. Refill system with front of car elevated. Check for proper operation. I'd rather keep from adding water to the cooling system if at all possible, it is considered a contaminate when using NPG+ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaz98gt Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 Whatever the cause of overheating, I am glad to have done the headgaskets. Yes, my new T-stat could only be installed in the correct orientation. I have more coolant ordered, should be delivered next week. That is one pain in the arse about the coolant I use, there are no longer any local vendors that I know of. I used to be able to pick it up at a Mazda/Rotary racing shop in Portland, but they stopped stocking it due to shipping expenses. Once I have the coolant here, I am going to do the following things: Drain and collect coolant. Remove newly-installed T-stat, and temp-check it alongside the old dealer T-stat in a pan of heated water. Flow-check empty radiator with a water hose. Replace whatever defective component(s) necessary. Refill system with front of car elevated. Check for proper operation. I'd rather keep from adding water to the cooling system if at all possible, it is considered a contaminate when using NPG+ Defintely a good call to replace the HGs anyway. I'm putting my money on either the t-stat or a huge slug of air in the system. I never elevated the front end of mine when I replaced the coolant, I think that bleeder valve is in the best spot that I've ever seen on a car...easy to reach, high point, great stuff. Test out the t-stat you have in there now and see how it goes, but according to everything else out there, all signs point to the genuine subaru t-stat for a replacement. Hope it all goes well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 Today I drained the coolant and removed the new aftermarket thermostat (I believe it is a Kuzeh) for testing. I placed both this new T-stat as well as the old OEM one in a pot of cold water on the stove, suspended from touching the bottom of the pan, along with a kitchen thermometer. I turned on the heat and watched until they BOTH opened, right about the same time. I believe the new T-stat to be operating correctly... UNLESS cold water from the radiator is enough of a downer to keep it closed when the engine is otherwise hot. I also removed the radiator. I didn't seem to find any internal clogs, as water flowed through it quite easily when backwashed with the garden hose. I noticed that the fins seemed quite dirty, however, even after hosing them down. Just to be sure - and for preventive maintenance - I ordered a new one from my FLAPS, it should be in store tomorrow. Started looking at the brakes in earnest today, seems the front driver's side is seized, as expected. Planning on a WRX 11.4" upgrade with performance pads and rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Elevated! That is how I refilled the coolant yesterday: http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=796&pictureid=4454 I picked up a brand new radiator just to rule things out (I prefilled the transmission cooler lines with some Redline ATF - man that stuff smells bad lol). Same new thermostat that I tested the other day. Same Evans coolant that I drained a few days ago, and my delivery of some more arrived from UPS as I was refilling. It took quite a while to fill the system. With the radiator burp screw open (included with the new radiator, looks like I wasted ten bucks at the dealer a couple weeks ago for a new one), I was filling from the upper radiator hose into the engine water pipe: http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=796&pictureid=4455 Eventually, the radiator became full from this technique, and I reattached the upper hose, and added a few more ounces into the radiator cap opening and overflow bottle. Since I was very careful collecting the coolant I had drained a few days ago, I needed very little from the new delivery of coolant. I then capped the radiator and closed the burp screw to start the engine (otherwise coolant shoots out when the waterpump surges when cranking). With the engine running, I opened the burp screw again and let the car run for awhile to warm up. I occasionally ran up the throttle and A/C to put a little load on, as well as deliberately restarted the car a few times to "surge" out any air pockets that might remain. One thing I noticed while the engine was warming up - with the burp screw on the radiator open, you can look down to see coolant inside where the upped hose comes in, but I didn't see coolant "flowing" by, it was very still. Eventually I closed the burp screw, a little pressure built up in the system, and when I checked later, hot coolant would gush out the hole when the burp screw was loosened... so at that point, either hot coolant was *flowing* through the radiator, or pressure buildup alone was forcing coolant out the hole (or some combination of both). The temp gauge settled in the middle, there was great heat in the cabin, and after at least 20 minutes of idling and light revving, the radiator and lower hose finally became warm, telling me that the thermostat probably opened okay (I don't think that ever happened on prior attempts, certainly not the times when I was checking the lower hose). It took quite awhile, and I was getting concerned when I was seeing the temp gauge in the middle (but the lower hose was still COLD), but eventually I felt relieved about it when I was certain there was flow through the T-stat. Still need to road test it, but I hope I've got this overheat problem licked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Ran the car in the driveway for a good half hour, made sure the lower radiator hose got a little warm, with the temp needle rock steady a bit below the halfway mark. Took the car for a short drive on the highway to get it up to speed (got to romp the gas finally) and it ran like a champ. Lots of 2.5 power! I think I'm calling this headgasket job DONE I'll have to put the car through a "torture test" of hills and twisties with the A/C running to make sure it's really got everything sorted, but I think it is good to go. Next up, BRAKES, big time. The front driver's side wheel got HOT in just a couple miles with that seized caliper, the other side was fine. I'd really like to do a WRX front/H6 rear conversion. Those stock front brakes are tiny (especially for a "GT") IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dldunckel Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Great work. Keep us posted with all the goodies you're doing. I'm waiting for the fans to come in the mail for my 97 gt wagon. Looking forward to getting the car back up and ruining. I'm tired of driving my old volvo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 Great work. Keep us posted with all the goodies you're doing. I'm waiting for the fans to come in the mail for my 97 gt wagon. Looking forward to getting the car back up and ruining. I'm tired of driving my old volvo. Thanks, I'm also looking forward to getting this car to daily driver status for my wife very soon. We've had the car about two months now and have only put on about 10 miles due to it constantly being under the knife Brake upgrades will be posted in this new thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2nd-gen-lgt-brake-upgrades-wrx-front-and-h6-rear-154702.html?p=3257443#post3257443 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imfamousG Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Who hard is it to get to the sunroof drain tubes? And are there any special tools needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 It's not too hard, you'll need a Phillips screwdriver to remove the sunvisors and forward dome light assembly, and a small, curved prying-implement to get behind the interior trim panels (I used a tack remover like this, since that is what I had handy at the time). You could probably manage with some flathead screwdrivers, but having a tool that has a bend in the end will save you some frustration. Personally, I will be getting a dedicated trim remover set for future projects. You'll also seed some basic needle-nose pliers to grab the plastic tubing to stretch it back over the nipple, a hair dryer to heat up the tubes to give them some stretch, some heavy-duty clear silicone adhesive, and a small zip-tie for each tube to seal and fasten them back into place. Plan on having the project take a few hours, maybe even leave the headliner front corners down overnight to make sure the tubes are securely fastened after the adhesive cures. The next day you can carefully pour water into the drip tray of the sunroof to verify that everything drains correctly. Don't forget to make sure the tubes are clear of old, dried mud and debris, or that the rear drain tubes are still in place (less common for the rear tubes to come disconnected, but I have heard of it happening). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Carefully removed old and installed new rear main seal with premium Subaru rear main seal installer special tool: http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=796&pictureid=4392 New rear main seal. Seems straight enough and at proper depth: http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=796&pictureid=4393 How much was the special tool like $120 right? I don't think I did mine right or it's not deep enough.. The oil loss is pretty high but I've gotta take the transmission out so I might as well do it right this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 I've heard of people just buying a piece of PVC pipe that is the correct diameter. Also, one guy said that he used a garbage disposal flange to do the same thing. When I replaced mine I took the shortblock down to Subaru and had them do it for me. There was one teeny spot where it didn't look seated as deep as the rest and the tech just took a 1/4 drive extension and tapped it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted May 13, 2012 Author Share Posted May 13, 2012 How much was the special tool like $120 right? I don't think I did mine right or it's not deep enough.. The oil loss is pretty high but I've gotta take the transmission out so I might as well do it right this time. I've heard of people just buying a piece of PVC pipe that is the correct diameter. Also, one guy said that he used a garbage disposal flange to do the same thing. When I replaced mine I took the shortblock down to Subaru and had them do it for me. There was one teeny spot where it didn't look seated as deep as the rest and the tech just took a 1/4 drive extension and tapped it in. I think you guys were recognizing my tongue-in-cheek humor , but just in case it is not entirely clear from the photo, my "Premium Subaru Rear Main Seal Installer Special Tool" is exactly what monkeyposeur says - a $2 PVC drain fitting from Home Depot. The diameter was a perfect match for the seal, and several carefully placed whacks with the rubber mallet put it into place pretty well. It is very important *not* to press the seal all the way to the bottom stopping point; it will be too deep and you will leak oil (or so I'm told). The seal must be just slightly above flush with the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted May 13, 2012 Author Share Posted May 13, 2012 If you haven't done so already, be sure to replace your oil separator plate - the original one is plastic and is probably cracked and the sealant has deteriorated. I've heard that is it common to mistake an oil leak at the rear of the engine for a rear main seal (which very well could be in good condition) when it actually turns out to be a leaky oil separator plate. The revised part is metal and is supposed to have much better longevity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted May 14, 2012 I Donated Share Posted May 14, 2012 Most of the time its the separator plate. Rear main leaks are not common on EJ engines. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted December 9, 2020 Author Share Posted December 9, 2020 This week marks ten years of ownership for my Legacy GT. Pictured here a little while after its December 2010 rescue: And the same angle a few minutes ago: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 This week marks ten years of ownership for my Legacy GT. Pictured here a little while after its December 2010 rescue: And the same angle a few minutes ago: Nice to see you still have the Gt-B wheels from me! They'd surely have been ruined if I kept them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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