Adoniram Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 OP: the symptoms you're describing are identical to the problems seen with a bad O2 sensor, especially the stuttering and SUDDEN acceleration. It's worth trying to replace or clean. Of course, that's not the ONLY thing that might be wrong, but it is exactly what happens with bad O2 sensors. Very common, usually an easy fix. If you know a good shop, you can always buy the part, test, and return if that's not the problem. Move onto the next thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicinebow Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Had the same issue with my '08. Would get the CEL with blinking cruise/SI/traction control. Was coded as P2096 Post catalyst fuel trim back one lean. They replaced the front A/F sensor. No luck. They had replaced the rear O2 sensor and still couldn't figure out the problem. Ended up being vacuum leaks at upper intake gaskets. Haven't had any issue since they have been replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 If you have a GPS or AP, check if it happens from about 1mph to about 2.5-3mph! I have an issue and know it's in the mapping of the car. Something happened after the car was looked at at the dealer for an unrelated issue. How many have an AP or ECU tune? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoniram Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 about to do a stage 2 tune this weekend... I'll post results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 If you have a GPS or AP, check if it happens from about 1mph to about 2.5-3mph! I have an issue and know it's in the mapping of the car. Something happened after the car was looked at at the dealer for an unrelated issue. How many have an AP or ECU tune? Could very well be, because it was happening to me when I was stage 1 (with AP, but e-tune). Since I went stage 2 with a different tune/tuner, it has not showed up again. However, my MAF sensor at stage 1 was not screwed in completely. Fixed when went stage 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 And it won't happen while in cold start. Once you leave cold start, either by flooring it or by temp, it will show itself and leave as it warms up more so it's a small period of time this happens and it's bad when I take/get my kids in the school car line. Also, it don't do it when I unmarry the AP, and don't do it with the Installed Stock nor the Valet map but does it with all the other maps. What tuner you had and which you went with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 I had a Stage 1 + AEM CAI e-tune from someone who has plenty of tunes out there for the AP with great results (though they seem less active now as far as i can tell). now I'm OpenSource dyno tuned from Dent Sport Garage in MA. I don't want to make it seem like I was blaming my initial tune. My stage 1 tune was great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woby Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 I have recently had a similar problem arise with my 08 Spec B (it was hard to comprehend an issue with a Spec B as they were built by the gods!), it is idling rough and sometimes it 'pulses' on acceleration and highway speeds. The tach doesn't register it but the fuel mileage display shows the 'pulse' quite easily. I took it to the dealership but ofcourse it wouldn't act up with a tech in the vehicle and doesn't throw any codes. I noticed the air filter is dirty so ordered a new one but was wondering if there are other possibilities? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamegti Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 mine was different. i would feel the variation in idle as soon as i started the car. at that time, i was pretty sure that it had something to do with the "air portion", ie MAF, loose hose, air filter or even the ECU. this was mainly because the situation was identical to when i had first put on the cone air filter without a tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baltz05subie Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Hi, I'm a new member. I have a 05 subaru lgt. Idle is low. All I did was disconnect the batt. To install a amp. Reconnect the batt. Start the car then sudenly the idle act up. Every stop light car dies. Can anybody help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 you might have a dying battery... or some sort of electrical issue. since it happened right after you installed an amp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamegti Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 ...or perhaps the map itself...may i ask what sort of map you have? my only physical performance mod is an spt air intake. when i first put it on, the car idled really badly just like yours, dying when i was stopped at junctions/traffic lights. got the cobb ap and while it helped a little, the idle was still rough. cobb said that their maps didn't support air intakes, so they basically showed me the door. went open source tuning and no more idle problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baltz05subie Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 Well I have a volt meter on my blitz turbo timer. When its on acc. It says 12.3 volt. And when I start the car it says 14.4. It could be defect. But maybe u right it could be the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baltz05subie Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 I'm the 2nd owner. I got this car from the dealership. It came with k&n intake. And I think the map is stock. Then I costum my exhaust to 3" inch pipe with a single muffler. No tune. The car was running fine until I put the amp in my car. And all the wires are good. I check every thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vr4Legacy Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 The car had probably "learned" the intake, and when you added the exhaust it "learned" that difference too, but disconnecting the battery reset it back to stock, so the ecu doesn't know how to compensate yet. Try driving it for a couple hundred miles and drive it hard, it might help. But from what everyone on here says, you really need to look into a tune with those mods, although not much, they are affecting your a/f ratio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamegti Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 my apologies. i read amp as map. disregard my post as i was talking about a whole different thing. how embarrassing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoniram Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 The car had probably "learned" the intake, and when you added the exhaust it "learned" that difference too, but disconnecting the battery reset it back to stock, so the ecu doesn't know how to compensate yet. Try driving it for a couple hundred miles and drive it hard, it might help. But from what everyone on here says, you really need to look into a tune with those mods, although not much, they are affecting your a/f ratio. I agree, the ECU needs to relearn the variables in your car. I just had to take my LGT to get smogged and the guy said the computer was still in some kind of learning mode (due to battery being recently reconnected). He suggested I get on the highway, floor it to the speed limit, drive for a few miles, and use the engine to decelerate on the off ramp. Stop the car. Start the car. Same thing on the way back. When I pulled back in, the computer was ready to be smogged! It might take a little longer when you've got extra mods to consider, but I would think 10-15 miles would be more than enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baltz05subie Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 I agree. But I can't floor my car to the speed limit. Cops are every where here in hawaii. No matter wat time it is there out there. I guess I just goin have to wait till it idle good. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Just tell them you are late for a Five-0 filming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarmob Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 Mine had the same problem. The battery had a bad cell and would not start. I took it to get it replaced at a place near my house. They disconnected the battery and let it sit for about 10 to 15 minutes. They put the new battery in and started it up. The car would idle around 100 rpm. Then they came in and asked me if the car always stalled when it was put into gear. I told them the car ran fine until they put the new battery in. Their techs told me that the alternator was bad. The problem with that was if both the battery and alternator where bad then how did I drive it almost 20 miles with the lights and defroster on. They couldn't figure it out so I drove it home with it running really bad. Turns out that the throttle body was very dirty and was blocking some holes that went to a sensor. After cleaning the Throttle body and making sure the holes were clear the engine ran fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baltz05subie Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 I changed the batt. Clean the map sensor and throttle body. Car started normal. I took it for a spin it was running fine never stall out at a stop light. But wen I got back home I was reverse parking and my car just died out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akimbo_kaeli Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 I realized after getting some emails about people commenting on this thread that I never followed up after my visit to the shop. Before going to the shop, I figured it might make sense to check the transmission fluid levels. I had JUST had my car in for a 60k service and, as part of that service, the Subaru dealership geniuses are supposed to check fluid levels. They filled out the service form stating they had checked the tranny fluid and that it was normal. Well, lo and behold, I check the fluid a few weeks later and it's so f***ing low that you can barely tell anything is in there. I filled it up with fluid and, imagine that, it drives perfectly. No stalling, no surging, shifts beautifully. There is no leak - I took it to a shop and they examined it and said it looked fine. So Subaru lied on the form. WTG, a**holes. The only explanation is that when I got into the accident, the morons who "fixed" my car (who I am suing because of how terrible a job they did) drained the tranny fluid and never replaced it. That would make sense, since the problems started IMMEDIATELY after I picked my car up from the frankenstein shop. Needless to say I have less than zero confidence in all mechanics/car repair shops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoniram Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 If you're having an issue with Subaru dealerships and service, I would suggest going here: https://www.subaru.com/shopping-tools/contact-us.html and choosing "Dealer relations." I did this while trying to buy my own car because the dealer had my money buT wasn't returning my calls or responding to emails (I bought my car from an out-of-state dealer). I got an email back from someone at Subaru with an hour or so, and a call from the dealer right after that. My experience with the crappy dealer was positive after I did that. If this shop is doing sub-standard work, sending out vehicles without fluids, etc, Subaru deserves to know so they can fix it. DON'T STAND IDLY BY AND LET OTHER CUSTOMERS SUFFER THE CONSEQUENCES. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baltz05subie Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Thanks for the advice and help guys. Now my car runs fine. I guess the map and throttle body just needed to be clean and the ecu needed to relearn my set up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Well I have a volt meter on my blitz turbo timer. When its on acc. It says 12.3 volt. And when I start the car it says 14.4. It could be defect. But maybe u right it could be the battery. That seems to be ideal battery figures, so I won't worry about the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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