Turboturd Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 I don't know if anyone has suggested this yet. But a torque converter clutch being stuck on will cause your car to stall at stops once its engaged during your drive. I don't know if the dealer has looked at this, if it's been mentioned, or even if the 5eat has it. ha. if the problem happens again I would look into that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 I don't know if anyone has suggested this yet. But a torque converter clutch being stuck on will cause your car to stall at stops once its engaged during your drive. I don't know if the dealer has looked at this, if it's been mentioned, or even if the 5eat has it. ha. if the problem happens again I would look into that. Are you thinking of the lock-up clutch? It's a possibility, but it seems a bit far-fetched. And maybe a data log of the car can provide better info. But since nobody has suggested this yet I would say that it's time to check the injectors. If one injector is running too fat then the others will turn too lean and you end up in a bad situation. It may be that one injector isn't closing properly due to dirt, but you don't really know until you have had them removed and tested. Will cost a bit, but an engine running rough at idle is most likely a fuel/air mix problem. But check for air leaks too. The seals between manifold and cylinder head are known to be a problem. And if you were in an accident the manifold may have gotten bumped causing it to be improperly seated or even cracked. Best thing is to take your car somewhere that can do a smoke test of the whole intake system. That's when they push in smoke at the throttle and see if it leaks out somewhere. Even a forgotten hose at the repair can be a culprit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDubbs Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 I know I'm bringing this back from the dead, but through my search this one suggested the most possibilities. I have really limited time so it would take around 5 weekends at 4 hours per to try it all, so I am hoping technology will narrow it down a bit Which (if any) of these issues would be represented by a particular log type? What I am looking for is something like this: Battery/Alternator: Volts on AP drop below X value Trans: Load is 2% through the shudder and death Intake Leak: MAF voltage X fluctuates %X I'm not saying any of these are accurate, but that is the kind of help I am looking for to narrow my search. My variant of this issue: 05 LGT AT, Rebuilt engine (Mahle 4032, full rebuild) and tune, original trans. Mods: AVO Top mount, VF46 replacement, all new oil-carrying bits, UP/DP (Catted), Silicon inlet, EBCS, AP. When in "cold start" mode it's the worst. I don't even move my car unless coolant is over 100F and stay out of boost till 180F. Pull to stop, car gets down to 600RPM and dies. If I put it in neutral, it goes down to 550/600 as I stop and shoots back to a rock solid 800 after about 3-5 seconds. It seems like it is worse when under a higher accessory load (AC running, applying brakes etc). I have a sub 1 year old battery, have run two bottles of seafoam from the tank, reset the ECU, cleaned the MAF to the best of my ability, and changed the 02 sensor. I checked the T connector under the IC and all connections to the inlet (visually). Thanks in advance, -Chris No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 if the idle is lumpy during cold start but gets better as it warms, and the idle likes to dip when coming to a stop when the engine is still not to full op temp, it would lead me to believe there's a vac leak that resolves once the engine warms and the gasket expands for a proper seal. you really should do a boost leak or smoke test to rule out any vac leaks since they are often the culprit of rough idles and dips. a learning view screen shot would also give a good idea if you have a leak somewhere. in the AP tuner software it would be under fine learning correction table. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Forgot about this thread. My tuner just took out the AVCS until past the troublesome revs/mph and issue was gone. Log the AVCS and compare with it on/off as when mine kicked in at that low mph is that the problem was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDubbs Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Thanks guys, this is exactly what I was looking for. No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golunnova Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 Looks like I am joining the party now... I have a 08 LGT 5EAT with 61k miles. Engine mods are Cobb AP Oct 93 Stage 1 map and AVO Panel Air Filter. Miscellaneous mods are low beam DDM HIDs + harness, Hella Supertones and Prosport Halo Boost Gauge. I was driving on the highway last Sunday and as I slowed down to almost a standstill in traffic, I noticed my car was stuttering and it wanted to stall. Had to shift to neutral to prevent it from stalling several times. When I got to a highway exit ramp, I opened up the throttle a bit to see if I had a boost leak from my newly installed boost gauge. Car felt like it was boosting fine. After the pull from the highway ramp, the car behaved like normal again. Since I was planning on bringing my car to the dealership, I uninstalled my Cobb AP, therefore restoring the original stock map to the ECU. I took the car out for a drive and she felt fine. Fast forward to today... I am pulling up to a stop sign, my car studders and stalls very quickly. I shift back to "P" and start up the car. Car starts up fine, but when I shift to "D" the car studders and stalls quickly again. I had to start the car, shift to neutral, and feather the throttle a bit before shifting to "D" so I could limp back to my driveway and into the backyard. Now my car is in my backyard, which is flat, and every time I try to shift the car to "D" or "R", the car studders and stalls. I also hear some strange noise from the engine when I turn my steering wheel. What the hay is going on?? Based on what I read from this thread, I will check what I can tomorrow from the list below: Check MAF Check Throttle Body Hose under TMIC Check for vacuum leaks Oil Control Valve? O2 Sensor Sticky Electronic Throttle Body Help me guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 Probably a vac leak. Hose blew off. Check the hoses connecting to the intake manifold under the intercooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golunnova Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 I pulled off the intercooler and verified the hose connecting the IC to the TB was not loose. The hose connnecting the BOV to the intake manifold was not loose either. I wasn't able to find any loose hoses. The only strange thing I found was the two hoses directly under the intercooler that was connecting to nothing. Someone mentioned they were venting hoses, not sure. Took a look at the MAF and it wasn't gunked up. I started up the car and from "P" to "D" and it was a fairly rough shift. The car didn't stall though. Shifted from "D" to "R" and the car did not stall either. Drove her around the block slowly and used the paddle shifters to go through gears 1->5 and no issues. Did a short WOT and verified boost is fine. I'm at a lost... deathly afraid to drive the car around until the May 30th, which is when I bring her to the dealership to see what is wrong. Any more guidance is more than welcome... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golunnova Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Any chance my torque converter is not unlocking?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 check your ATF level when the car is hot and idling, high fluid level can cause high line pressures. sounds like your line pressure is really high, or the tc is locked, yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golunnova Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 I checked my ATF level before starting the car on the weekend and noticed it was over the "F". I never considered excessive ATF may contribute to my problem. Any advice on how to get some of the ATF out?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 drain plug on the tranny pan. there's about 5qts of atf in the pan, you can drain that out, refill with about 4, get the car up to temp while idling, keep checking the level, add as needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golunnova Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Update: I drove the car to North Coast Subaru this morning for them to look at it. Lo and behold, as I am 1 mile away from the dealership I see the infamous dashboard Christmas lights all light up. Cruise control light, VDC, Check Engine and AT Oil Temp. The car was still driving fine but I chose to pull over to the shoulder and shut off the car for a few minutes. I started the car and all the same lights except the AT Oil Temp light was on. I didn't bring my AccessPort with me so I couldn't pull the codes. Well...car is at the dealership now. Hope they find out what's wrong with her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 If you left it married, they won't be able to communicate with the ECU or get readings or something from it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golunnova Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 I uninstalled the Cobb AP 3 weeks before bringing my car to service. No worries there. They said they pulled the codes, ran some more tests on the transmission, and determined torque converter was having issues unlocking. Looks like I will be getting a new remanufactured transmisson installed. Estimated pick up date is Tuesday. Keeping my fingers crossed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golunnova Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Latest update: Picked up the car from the dealership on Wednesday. Everything is shifting smoothly, no more rough 2->3 upshift or stalling out at red lights/stop signs. Looked over the receipt document and the dealership wrote: Pulled code P0741 - Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction. Low line pressure. Replaced transmission assembly. Need to give a shout out to North Coast Subaru for taking care of me. Bob, the service manager, was a pleasure to deal with. He kept me in the loop about what was going on and explained what went wrong and what was being done to fix my situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brprs Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Im having some issues as well. Like lose of power? I havent had any cels ever, or anything. When i am going and then slowing down then accelerating back up its like still in a higher gear? Not down shifting soon enough, laggy and not responsive. Its a 2005 gt 5eat with 83,xxx and completely stock. I turn the car off and checked the atf levels when hot and they seemed normal. This was like within 15-20 minutes. I took it back out the same route and nothing! Its normal!? Wtf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nastygear7 Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 my 06 LGT was having stalling problems, found out my ac compressor clutch was fixed and stalling my engine via the belt. I guess the ac compressor was fried and was causing too much resistance cause it was hot! just took off my belt for now till i can put new compressor on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt3609 Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 i have a 2009 legacy 2.5i and there was a recall on something contact dealer and ask Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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