JaeGT Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 fkngrvn, i'm getting the same metal on metal contacts due to the self loosening top nuts. Only the driver side seems to loosen itself. passenger side never budged. I have to re-tighten it either once or twice a week. I'm not getting the spring popping noise anymore (or just not as often as when they were new). I don't have an impact wrench and can't tighten the bolt any tighter because the allen key will break. i think i'm just stuck re-tightening them every so often. its no biggy for now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fkngrvn Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 I guess I should say that it does not take much with the impact driver, just a good light 'hit' so to speak. I am not sure if it will make any difference either, just following some advice that was mentioned in that FAQ. If it works, I will mention it. Just in case, I found a Dewalt cordless imact driver capable of 300 lb-ft of torque for $199 including two extra batteries at Home Depot. The batteries by themselves are $100-125 so it made that $299 kit on sale for $199 quite a steal. I have had real good luck finding those kind of steals at our local Home Depot lately. I am getting a low pitched clunking noise from the left front strut and my next quest is to find out if there is anything else I need to look at to tighten. I have not had the time to do so yet, but i am on the prowl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJW Performance Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 As for the clunking in the front as you turn, the thrust bearing kits eliminate this 100% As for the top nuts loosening themselves. We at first loosened them a touch because we thought at first that the noise was being caused due to them being over tightened at the factory. This was NOT the case and the thrust bearings replaced that theory. You may very well have to hit the top nut with an impact gun to get it to where it should be. jaeGT I would be more than happy to do this for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacytruth Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 I've had my ISC N1s for a while now. They are for a Legacy, so even in their highest position I'm REALLY low. My avatar pic is stock ride height http://184.72.239.143/mu/40795ff6-5fe2-f764.jpg I had these 3" lift spacers made to go back up for winter, I'll use the ISC's to lower & raise it from then on. http://184.72.239.143/mu/40795ff6-6042-56df.jpg I plan to order the washers & thrust bearing kit before the spacer install since it'll be apart anyway. I still wish that potholes didn't feel like the coilover was about to shoot through the hood. The Baja had tons of travel before & I knew I'd have to adjust. I just wish they wouldn't bang so loudly on bumps. It's scary. Being able to do this makes it worth it though. Check out this video on YouTube: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJW Performance Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Glad the lift spacers worked for you, enjoy taking fast turns! I will make an informational video for those who have questions ASAP, to help anyone who is a first timer to coilovers, or just wants to learn more about adjustability Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fkngrvn Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Help...I am embarassed to give people rides in my car because of NVH and potholes. I feel the same thing as Legacytruth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacytruth Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Help...I am embarassed to give people rides in my car because of NVH and potholes. I feel the same thing as Legacytruth. Yeah, I still wish I'd have gotten the street COMFORT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJW Performance Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 What are you guys running for preload? If your not running enough you will get some sounds for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fkngrvn Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 13 turns from no tension on the springs. Full Damper front. Half damper in the rear. The rear seems fine, but i think that is more due to the bump stops present in ther rear multi-link suspension. These shocks feel like they dont have enough damper to control the shock. If I leave a parking lot in a diagonal line over an entrance driveway, you can feel the front shock rebound very violently as soon as the wheel leaves the surface. i would assume that the damper is supposed to soften that recoil....RIGHT? If the damper can't control the rebound of the shock, can it control the compression of the shock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJW Performance Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 full damper? You should be at 170-180mm in the front for preload. If your preload is off you will probably get some noise since correct preload is pretty important for aftermarket coilovers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fkngrvn Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 full damper? You should be at 170-180mm in the front for preload. If your preload is off you will probably get some noise since correct preload is pretty important for aftermarket coilovers Yup the front coilovers are set to full HARD (turned alll the way to the right) and the rear is set to about 3/4 of full HARD (turned the damper 24 clicks to the right). If any less, the suspension bottoms out over any irregualr surface that is greater in height than 4 - 6 inches. Recessed manhole covers and pavement indentations from big rigs are a great example of what this suspension cannot handle. What I did....I marked the collar so that I would know how many revolutions were turned. I then turned the adjustment on the preload so that I turned the wrench to the right 13 revolutions. This combined with more ajustment to the rear (three revolutions on the shock, three revolutions of preload) and for whatever reason, the ride has improved dramatically. This could also be attributed to a rise in ambient temperature. It was averaging 30-40F, and over the last day, we have seen temperatures in the 60-70F range. What does your measurement of 170-180mm refer to? Is this the measurement of threads that you should see between the bottom locking collar and the upper collars? How does temperature affect the shock damper? I have a feeling that I am still going to hear a significant event everytime the suspension bottoms out and it does it quite frequently over rough roads that you would find in any city - large or small. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJW Performance Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 You will not be bottoming out if you are running correct preload, which by the sound of it you are not. You need to compress the spring to 170-180mm when the spring is not under load. Preload controls the behavior you are speaking of, and if you are running barely any... you will def hear noise. So tighten up the fronts to the measurement I provided (which is also in the directions, I know sometimes hard to understand) and you should be all set sir. If you have any more questions regarding how to adjust preload, feel free to give me a PM or phone call, I will reply much quicker. Temp won't have a whole lot to do with coilovers, unless you get in the super cold conditions. PS- that also is some pretty hard dampening you are running, I would be careful running that until you run the propper preload to offset it.. IMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fkngrvn Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Are you Measuring the length of the spring from perch to perch? I reduced preload because the car was riding too rough. And...I bottom out no matter what adjustment I do. I have run much higher preload and much lower preload and the car still bottoms out over stuff that it shouldn't bottom out over. I have run through the entire damper setting and this is the first time that the shocks don't bottom out over every rough bump. With mostly full damper on, I only bottom out on the larger potholes. Not really a reference, but the stock Outback absorbs the same impacts with little to any NVH whereas my car is embarrassing. If I didn't already know what the impacts sound like in my car, I would have never noticed the stuff if driving the outback or the original suspension on the Legacy GT. On another front.....I guess the $50 part will fix the binding issue, but this is something that no one I have talked to has ever seen in any aftermarket coilover suspension. They may have experience with something other than struts, but you know.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fkngrvn Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 I guess I should record the impact...because it is spine tingling like a nails on a chalk board. I will go and measure the springs from perch to perch. What should I be running on the rear shocks? Edit: 152mm front from perch to perch. If 170-180mm is basically no preload on the spring....I've tried that with the same result of the car bottoming out and complete embarassment when giving folks a ride to dinner... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJW Performance Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 first of all a outback is going to have way more travel than an aftermarket coilover for a Legacy gt, BUT none the less send me a PM or call ISC if you need help adjusting your coilovers. 152 is way to compressed IMO, I have never seen anyone run that much preload. Are you sure you understand what preload is, I am trying to explain it the best I can for you. I am not trying to jack this thread, so please contact me if you would like further support from us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fkngrvn Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 I understand completely. I have been playing with suspensions for mountain bikes for better than ten years. I understand the concepts, I am just trying to relay how bad these impacts reverberate through the car. I.E. On my mountain bike ($700 Maverick suspension fork), I am running four clicks from soft on the damper. Any more and you feel a noticeable difference. The range is something like 16 clicks. Roughly, I am running 1/4 from soft and it feels great. If I turn the damper up to 1/2 - 3/4, the shock wouldn't move because of the damper. I don't get any similar behavior from the ISCs when adjusting the damper. In other words, I feel only a slight difference from full soft to full hard on the ISCs. This is not right. In other words, the damper is not strong enough for the shock. What would it take to install a damper with more capability? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fkngrvn Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Well, after talking to a couple of different people about these issues, it seems that if ride and NVH are priorities in your suspension upgrades...be prepared to drop some cash. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJW Performance Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Be prepared to drop some cash? Its a 1250.00 coilover that most vendors sell for around 900.00... You bought a set USED from another member, TOLD me that you THINK they are defective but your upset because they are not under warranty. I went out of my way to personally cover them for you, and send you a free set. You said no because you are done spending time and money on these even that it would be free, but you still have time to talk badly about them and claim you are going to shock test them (spend more money) to show other legacy members how they perform. I think we can all assume here that a blown shock would do pretty bad on a shock dyno For all I know you are running street comforts that are super soft or something, again no details provided when we attempted to do a warranty claim. He also said he was running 150mm of front compression, which is way to much and potentially dangerous. I don't know who you are or what your intentions are on this forum, but what I do see is your constantly attacking this/ our product. If you don't want any NVH, go spend 2,000.00 on a set, or better yet don't buy any coilovers at all. When a dealer offers you a free warranty even when yours is not valid and there is NO PROOF that yours are blown, you say thank you and you accept or decline according to what you want to do. For anyone who wants to read a review that is accurate check out the NASIOC one, or the RS25 one, etc... I have sold over 300 sets personally, and have seen less than a hand full have had issues. Yes in the beggining there was spring bind, a sound associated with aftermarket coilovers with pillowball uppermounts, and yes we fixed that by having ISC make the thrust bearing kit. I run this product and I love them. I have a great relationship with ISC, since they are not on here as a supporting vendorI am just doing my best to protect them from someone who for whatever reasons is on here to bring the brand down. I am no longer going to reply to your posts on this thread or your PM's. If you want to continue to act like this feel free to give me a call at the shop, 508 965 7383. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windy Road Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Hey AJW do you guys sell the thrust bearing kits? How much for them, I'm going to need to order a set soon 276hp/347tq On a DynoJet Dyno Video - Had a big lean spot as you can tell in the second pull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJW Performance Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Yessir! Shoot us a pm when your ready to order. (sorry to thread jack, pm for orders please) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windy Road Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Sweetness, I'll shoot you a pm when I'm ready. 276hp/347tq On a DynoJet Dyno Video - Had a big lean spot as you can tell in the second pull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearOnePerformance Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Well..I installed mine the other day and I have to say that I feel they ride better than the Bilstein/Rallitek set up i previously had. Two things I was wondering though... Any one have tips on adjusting the camber? I move the adjustment bolt and loosen the plates but i dont get any change? Also is it possible to get the rear flush with the tires? 'm almost out of height adjustment but still have a 2 finger gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrad Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 You need to get a camber bolt kit to adjust the camber. The mounting holes on the strut are not drilled right to use the stock bolt. One hole should have been drilled smaller so the stock bolt would actually work correctly. This was something I told Andrew about when I first installed the kit. The only other thing would be to fab up a washer type pill to fit inside of the strut mount hole. But a camber bolt kit does the same thing. The only other way to get any camber out of the struts is to use the plates. You'd have to go back through my posts or the review thread I made to see how much camber I was able to get by moving the tops in. I was hoping to get about 2 plus degrees for autox, but your not able to achieve this without a camber bolt kit. In my opinion the rear spring should have been made a little longer to get more of a drop for those that are going more for looks. However if your going for performance the gap that is achievable like you have now is where you want to be. Any lower and the suspension arms are drooped down and won't perform correctly. The geometry is all jacked up otherwise. You can get more a drop, but your going to have to compress the spring more or shorten the strut which isn't ideal. These 2 things are the only downfalls to the ISC coilovers. The camber bolt kit isn't too expensive and not a big deal. And the rear spring. Well you can look at it either way. For performance it is fine, but for looks it should be a little longer to get more of a drop. Once I put the teflon washers in the spring perches the noise issue all but went away. If I would have kept my LGT with the ISC's I would have gotten the bearings at a later date. I really think the ISC's are a nice Coilover for the price. I thought they were pretty good quality and they worked well for the few autox I did with them before I sold the car. The daily drive was pretty good when the dampening was set at about 15 clicks. I usually ran mine around 22-24, so I didn't have to change for autox. However you can feel a lot of the road bumps when the dampening was set that high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fkngrvn Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Be prepared to drop some cash? Its a 1250.00 coilover that most vendors sell for around 900.00... You bought a set USED from another member, TOLD me that you THINK they are defective but your upset because they are not under warranty. I went out of my way to personally cover them for you, and send you a free set. You said no because you are done spending time and money on these even that it would be free, but you still have time to talk badly about them and claim you are going to shock test them (spend more money) to show other legacy members how they perform. I think we can all assume here that a blown shock would do pretty bad on a shock dyno For all I know you are running street comforts that are super soft or something, again no details provided when we attempted to do a warranty claim. He also said he was running 150mm of front compression, which is way to much and potentially dangerous. I don't know who you are or what your intentions are on this forum, but what I do see is your constantly attacking this/ our product. If you don't want any NVH, go spend 2,000.00 on a set, or better yet don't buy any coilovers at all. When a dealer offers you a free warranty even when yours is not valid and there is NO PROOF that yours are blown, you say thank you and you accept or decline according to what you want to do. For anyone who wants to read a review that is accurate check out the NASIOC one, or the RS25 one, etc... I have sold over 300 sets personally, and have seen less than a hand full have had issues. Yes in the beggining there was spring bind, a sound associated with aftermarket coilovers with pillowball uppermounts, and yes we fixed that by having ISC make the thrust bearing kit. I run this product and I love them. I have a great relationship with ISC, since they are not on here as a supporting vendorI am just doing my best to protect them from someone who for whatever reasons is on here to bring the brand down. I am no longer going to reply to your posts on this thread or your PM's. If you want to continue to act like this feel free to give me a call at the shop, 508 965 7383. Are you butthurt much? I was simply stating a fact and this is how you respond? Guys...this response should tell you more about this product then I have. Thanks for giving away your hat in your hand. I am serious when I said I was done, I am pulling them out of the car and I am going to sell them to someone who can use them. I am looking for less NVH and more comfort than this product can provide. They do not meet my needs...the stock suspension will be fine until I decide if I want the bilstein HD setup or if I am going to spend the money on a purpose built track setup for another car!!! Besides, it was never really apparent that you were going to give me a new setup. If it was...I would have gladly accepted. But, then again, the new set would most likely exhibit the same problems since these noises, clunkiness, and bottoming out issues are nothing new for other people who have bought these units. A professional in the industry even said that I am in the minority of buyers for coilovers becase most just want to slam their ride. I want the whole kit 'n' kaboodle which is not something that is going to be offered by a cheap set of coilovers such as these ISC N1s, Stance, or any of the other manufacturers of cheap coilover setups. Maybe if you would tell people up front that if ride and NVH are a priority, that coilovers are not the setup that you want. They would be better off with Koni or Bilstein depending on the budget. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreciousMetalNJ Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 Looks great!! Specs on wheels and any fender modifications? I'm looking at getting something similar for my car. Pic of ISC's with new XXR wheels http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs054.ash2/36076_448292902957_500072957_5160406_3066645_n.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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