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Swaybar FAQ


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On a stock Subaru, it's been calculated that the swaybars do about twice as much to resist roll as the springs.

 

I dont think this is correct. springs do much more to control roll then the swaybars. in fact the best way to control roll is with stiffer springs and struts. can you post a link to this calculation?

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here is what i meant

from the article you posted

Springs and swaybars work in

tandem with each other during a cars transition and steady state handling (see Appendix

A). Both affect body roll of the car as well as weight transfer. A stiffer bar can often be

put on a car to keep body roll in check, especially if the springs are soft. Conversely, stiff

springs can be used to control body roll and smaller sway bars used with them. Which is

better and why do you want to control body roll? I prefer having stiff springs and a

smaller sway bar than the reverse. This is because a swaybar effectively makes the

suspension on that end of the car dependent (instead of independent). This means, in

order to control body roll, a sway bar will tend to lift the inside wheel in a corner, making

what happens on one side of the car dependent on the other. By using springs to control

most of the roll, you keep the suspensio n more independent from side to side.

 

It is better to have stiffer spings to control roll than soft springs and thick bars.

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depends on how youre using your car ^ stiffer springs AND bars is gonna give you a better track time and handling but your back and butt is gonna suffer a bit on city streets cause it will be a bumpy ride. soft springs and stiff bars will give you an OK track time, but better than if you were stock, and youll still have a smooth ride on city streets. if you have a little extra cash just get stiff bars and find a shop that does good cage work and get just a 4 point cage. its not too crazy, you wont sacrafice interior space, and you can paint it black so it will blend in with the interior of the car. and it will act like stiffer springs but you wont have that bad bumpy ride on city streets

 

does that help?

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it complements it nicely, the more rigidity you between any two sides of the frame will stiffen up your ride..i felt a difference in handling when i put the front strut bar on, and i already had a 25mm front sway, 22mm rear

 

What about NVH issues with the strut bar? I read about pro's/con's. Maybe the lower chasis bars create NVH, not so much the top bar?

 

Interesting about the comparisons between replacing sway bars vs struts/springs. My Outback has very soft shocks which contributed to the terrible body roll. Though since I installed 25 mm F/R sway's - the body roll has improved so much - not even sure I really need to upgrade the shocks any more.

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  • 1 month later...

well I got all my parts ordered. now it's a matter of time until they all arrive!! super stoked

 

rallitek 22mm front sway bar (have here)

Whiteline Subaru Rear Sway Bar BSR19XZ- 20mm adjustable

Whiteline endlinks KLC6, KLC30 (have here)

whiteline KBR21-20 Swaybar mount-h/duty kit rear

2004 sti pink struts w/top hats ETC (have here)

RCE black springs

3/8" saggy butt spacers

 

also got a borla header and cosmo racing CAI on the way. gunna be busy when it all gets here.

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Any one have a diff time putting th energy greasable c clamp on the passenger side front. I have a 25 mm perring fsb and thoses clamps on. the driver side lines up, but the passenger side clamp will not fit. it is too long. i have to grind metal down and it still dosn't fit right. I also have the MSI front endlink and they really are not fitting right ether.
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Any one have a diff time putting th energy greasable c clamp on the passenger side front. I have a 25 mm perring fsb and thoses clamps on. the driver side lines up, but the passenger side clamp will not fit. it is too long. i have to grind metal down and it still dosn't fit right. I also have the MSI front endlink and they really are not fitting right ether.

 

Bought 4 of those bushings, but you can not put them on the passenger side due to it being to long (as you already stated). I think there is another type of energy solutions bushing that will work (shorter), but I just used the stockers and have not had any issues in the front. Also, my rallitek endlinks worked great, but I had to do the following trick: If you are having trouble compress both of the wheels at the same time (if you have two jacks) and the end links go on much better with that LCA being as parallel to the ground as possible.

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