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Sub.Warning!!!!


REX2LGT

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Are you sure you have to connect the sub to power via the battery?

 

I didn't see that anywhere in the instructions.

 

For some reason I thought it was powered by the head unit and just ran the power through one of the 14 pins.

 

Of course all of the aftermarket amps I've ever hooked up have always run their own power wire to the battery but I'm not sure in this case. Can someone who has done it verify?

 

That would definately be fun trying to run the power wire all the way to the battery. Again, I thought the kit woudl be complete and only come with a harness, sub and bracket.

 

I had to run 4 gauge in my explorer and I ended up having one large hole but in the end it was a sweet sound .... all 1200 watts of it!

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Obviously you had to go to the passenger seat because of the DVD system under the driver's seat. Was that a problem? Did the bracket work on that side?

I did not use the supplied bracket at all. Instead, I used some heavy duty velcro on both the bottom of the sub unit and on the (silver) metal "bar" under the passenger seat. The sub is in there snug, and will not move. This also makes it easier to adjust the settings for the amp, as I can just peel it off of the floor (and then put it back) without needing to remove any bolts. I've used velcro (just the side with hooks) to hold an amplifier in my old WRX, and the AVIC-N1's hideaway unit in my old STi to the floor without incident. Unfortunately, the carpeting in the Legacy is not conducive to velcro attachment, so I had to use both sides of the velcro (and luckily that metal part is there).

 

So let me get this straigt I just take everythign apart console, head unit, seats carpet... run the harness that comes with the sub. Plug it into the back of the head unit and put it all back together.

 

From reading some posts here that's what it sounds like? Right?

That is correct. The instructions suggest that you route the wiring under the carpeting (from the transmission tunnel to the vent under the seat). Since the wiring harness was black, I just ran it over the carpet (from under the center console), straight down to the sub unit. The wiring harness is not noticeable. I did not have to remove the seat.

 

No special splicing or crimping. Pretty much plug and play?

It is completely plug-n-play. It comes with a "pass-through" harness that you connect in between the radio wiring harness coming from the car, and the head unit itself. One extra grounding wire attaches to the metal bracket for the head unit.

 

There will be an unused plug in the back of the head unit?

Not sure what you mean by this? You're just plugging a wiring harness in between the car's harness and the head unit.

 

Any extra stuff back there from the Nav that I'll have to worry about running into?

Nothing that I encountered.

 

I'm always nervous when I'm taking apart the interior of a brand new car for the first time.

It is quite easy/straight forward. The instructions that come with the sub unit include pictures of what you're removing. Also, I suggest using the jazzymt instructions for his stock radio aux-in as a reference, as there are pictures on how to remove the dash (and associated panels).

 

Also, you do not connect any sort of power cable to the battery. Everything (power/ground) is taken care of with the pass-through harness, utilizing the radio harness' connections.

 

-Mike-

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What a great help mike!

 

I appreciate all the detail. I am now much more comfortable doing this install and it might even save me a few bucks.

 

Yeah I saw someone ask about the power wire and then I started to wonder but that all makes perfect sense.

 

The only question I have is you mentioned "jazzymt" as a reference in taking out the dash. I'm not sure who or what that is. Other than that great info and I really appreciate the help.

 

I'm so excited about this new car. I think I'll have to go out for a drive right now.

 

:)

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Hmm...wonder if I could splice off that to hook up a second OEM sub under the other seat. Looks like it will fit just fine...but would it suck too much power through the spliced cable?
Give a man a beer, and he'll waste an hour. Teach a man to brew, and he'll waste a lifetime.
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^^^For that price, you might as well install a real sub/amp in the trunk.

 

Believe it or not, there is a method to my madness. I drive a wagon, so no trunk. I could put a sub in the back, but then it would be intrusive to all my crap that I take on my road trips.

 

Installation of another OEM under the passenger seat would:

- be unobtrusive

- be symmetrical with the current speaker placement.

 

I'm just not too sure if I could just splice off wires to the head, without potential for sucking too much juice and frying something (or simply having the subs sound like crap).

Give a man a beer, and he'll waste an hour. Teach a man to brew, and he'll waste a lifetime.
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What a great help mike!

That's what we're here for. :)

 

The only question I have is you mentioned "jazzymt" as a reference in taking out the dash. I'm not sure who or what that is.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18504

 

Download the PDF instructions, and use the information for the radio removal (you'll need to get at the back of the head unit/air conditioning controls, so you will have to remove it).

 

-Mike-

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I could put a sub in the back, but then it would be intrusive to all my crap that I take on my road trips.

 

I can't answer your question regarding running two OEM subs in the car, but here is (probably) the least obtrusive way to add one in the cargo area (and will actually produce meaningful bass);

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25240

 

But, when it will be released and its cost is still up in the air. :)

 

-Mike-

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I'm just not too sure if I could just splice off wires to the head, without potential for sucking too much juice and frying something (or simply having the subs sound like crap).

 

Hmm...if I knew more about how this thing is hooked up, I'd be able to help you mre, but here goes:

 

1. Find out where the +12V, ground is coming from (which circuit). If it gets those from the same circuit as the audio system, take those connections from something else, like the cigarette lighter (though this might introduce ground loop noise). Hook the signal harness or whatever up to the stereo, and I think that you might be good to go. The worst thing that you can do is blow a fuse.

The Dude - Two inches and counting...:lol:
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...

You can get a second sub from subaruparts.com for less than $200.

 

I am OK with the single sub, but could use a little more bass. I might also add in some baseblockers on the doors to keep them from clipping all together.

 

I am with the earlier poster, and think that running some 4 gauge power/ground wires to the subs couldn't hurt.

 

DaveJ

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Sorry, i must disagree also. I turned my bass up to +2 or +3 and it sounds perfectly and loud at volume 13! Also, set the gain higher. Its the second knob thing on the sub itself. I turned mine up to ~2.5 and it couldnt sound better. Hope you get this all cleared up.
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I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and get a second sub for the passenger side. I'll ask for it for Christmas, or just buy it after the holiday season.

 

The stereo is just a bit to much of a step down from the Phoenix Gold ZX / JL Audio XR system in my old Z. I don't miss the rattles or wind noise though. :)

 

I'll try to remember to report back with how it goes.

 

DaveJ

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I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and get a second sub for the passenger side. I'll ask for it for Christmas, or just buy it after the holiday season.

 

The stereo is just a bit to much of a step down from the Phoenix Gold ZX / JL Audio XR system in my old Z. I don't miss the rattles or wind noise though. :)

 

I'll try to remember to report back with how it goes.

 

DaveJ

I look forward to you pioneering this project! A lot of us await your results!!

Give a man a beer, and he'll waste an hour. Teach a man to brew, and he'll waste a lifetime.
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  • 1 year later...
I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and get a second sub for the passenger side. I'll ask for it for Christmas, or just buy it after the holiday season.

 

The stereo is just a bit to much of a step down from the Phoenix Gold ZX / JL Audio XR system in my old Z. I don't miss the rattles or wind noise though. :)

 

I'll try to remember to report back with how it goes.

 

DaveJ

 

 

hey i wanted to do the same thing but the dealership told me that it was not possible. did you somehow pull it off??

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where are those controls for the sub at?? i saw these two little holes on the front of it that might be them, but stuck a screw driver in them and turned... nothing happened. not trying to remove the whole seat. help please!
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where are those controls for the sub at?? i saw these two little holes on the front of it that might be them, but stuck a screw driver in them and turned... nothing happened. not trying to remove the whole seat. help please!

You found them. They are a beyotch to get to! :lol:;)

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  • 1 year later...

Wonderin if you could swap a very small-space requirement sub in for the OEM driver... perhaps, one of those old round solobaric's? those things needed almost no space. sealed box, and could really thump.

 

Anyone have the dimentions of the OEM sub, it's box and the harness?

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