mmmmspecb Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 From pictures of supplied cables on plx www it looks like you could mount plx sending unit close to vbg1 sending unit, connect them with mini jack and route 02 sensor cable all the way through firewall Yes, exactly. My plx unit and the vbg1 sending unit are both in the driver side fuse panel well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted April 21, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 21, 2013 not sure what you mean...plx plugs into VBG sending unit through mini jack cable right? No. The output connects to one of the wires on the VBG1 harness (green, I think?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowImg Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Yes, exactly. My plx unit and the vbg1 sending unit are both in the driver side fuse panel well Were you to have time to take a picture of the setup, I would be appreciative. It seems like there's space, but I haven't quite found an orientation that would allow me to mount them cleanly without dremeling anything or screwing into panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 22, 2013 Moderators Share Posted April 22, 2013 I can try to get a pic of my setup as well, both the plx unit and vbg unit are near the fuse panel for me as well. I have logged successfully to romraider with the PLX unit--it seems to be working great. I made my own cable, so cannot vouch for the one from PLX, sorry. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmmmspecb Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Were you to have time to take a picture of the setup, I would be appreciative. It seems like there's space, but I haven't quite found an orientation that would allow me to mount them cleanly without dremeling anything or screwing into panels. Well my setup isn't exactly clean It's just kinda thrown in there for lack of a better solution for now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmmmspecb Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 I can try to get a pic of my setup as well, both the plx unit and vbg unit are near the fuse panel for me as well. I have logged successfully to romraider with the PLX unit--it seems to be working great. I made my own cable, so cannot vouch for the one from PLX, sorry. I was referring to the update cable from lossol. The one from plx will work. Details on how you made your own cable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 No. The output connects to one of the wires on the VBG1 harness (green, I think?). no and no. yelllow but for lc1 not plx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted April 22, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 22, 2013 no and no. yelllow but for lc1 not plx Hmmmm, interesting. You learn something new every day... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 (edited) Install through fender well is a cake, highly recommend. I have weird electrical problem though. I killed battery few days before installing vbg1 so I have to swith battery and see if that does it but as of right now I have p600 CEL. I used to get it when OBDII BT PLX was hooked up but it was very seldom event and it went away after cel clear no problem. Right now and I can't clear p600 neither through software cel clear nor through battery disconnect . Limp mode with light flashing (supprisingly boosting normally) speedo and tach are out of wack. Sometimes they work sometimes not, right now tach is working and speedo is dead. VBG1 itself fires up no problem but sometimes it goes into semi stand by mode where red diods are working (only on the vacuum side) but rest of the gauge is dead. I have to tap one of the touch buttons to wake it up. My mazda has similar bahaviour when battery doesn't have enough juice, even if it cranks no problem so hopefully it's just battery. Will report in the afternoon. There was a service bulletin about p600 code and one of the reason for it is listed as not enough juice in the battery on start up. I grounded the black vbg1 cable to the metal frame under the dash so I think that part is ok. Any thoughts anyone ? Edited April 22, 2013 by Drogos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted April 22, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 22, 2013 Did you put a second fuse in the add-a-fuse holder? P0600 came up when I blew my IGN2 fuse, which is the fuse location where lossol recommends using the add-a-fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 wait...it comes with fuse in the holder. Am I suppose to add another one...the 7.5 that was originally in IG2 socket ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted April 22, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 22, 2013 Yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 ok, that did the trick:) let's add that to the instructions for 'quick' thinkers like me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 have been driving around for a few days and I am still amazed what a great product this is. Customizations alone was a great surprise. Anyways, I do have little issues that I am trying to nail down. First of all when doing 1 & 2 gear pulls one after another it seems that it only registers one of them as a peak. The 1st one ...I think. Wondering if it has anything thing to do with filtering option in menu. 2nd more important: I am simultaneously running torque app. throug OBDII port and while sometimes boost values are dead even, other times there are huge discrepancies.....anywhere from 1psi to even 2.2psi I had today. I am pretty sure vbg1 is a heart breaker in all instances showing lower boost Anyone has issues like that? Don't even know where is the stock boost sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctracey Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 (edited) Have we heard when these will be back in stock? Edited April 27, 2013 by ctracey Added Chee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec.B Dream Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Finally got one of these ordered. I can't wait to install it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted April 30, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 30, 2013 2nd more important: I am simultaneously running torque app. throug OBDII port and while sometimes boost values are dead even, other times there are huge discrepancies.....anywhere from 1psi to even 2.2psi I had today. I am pretty sure vbg1 is a heart breaker in all instances showing lower boost Anyone has issues like that? Don't even know where is the stock boost sensor. This is weird, because I had the opposite problem, at least with my old VBG1 -- it showed 1-2psi higher than the ECU did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 (edited) where does ECU take it's readings from? From further observation it looks like ecu reading are consistent and vbg1 jumps between spot on with ecu and totally off readings ...anything to do with start up/self calibration procedure maybe? Edited May 1, 2013 by Drogos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 Drogos, what do you have the boost filter set to? (menu option 1) In the past there has been a lot of discussion about transient boost spikes and VBG1 sampling methods producing higher readings. We added boost filtering into the unit as an option to knock some of those transients down. So if your boost filtering is set higher it will reduce the peak values reported. If you desire a reading as close to "real" pressure as you can get - I recommend the setting of "Low" boost filter. A bunch of the AU guys were looking into this at one point: http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=20436&start=60 They concluded that the VBG1 was more accurate on transients then their other form of measurement. The ECU and the VBG1 are inherently sampling on different clocks and at different rates. So depending on how the sampling points line up how fast the log actually reports boost, its entirely likely the whole difference is just sampling related. http://www.ni.com/cms/images/devzone/tut/sampleclk.JPG This is weird, because I had the opposite problem, at least with my old VBG1 -- it showed 1-2psi higher than the ECU did. That's correct - The old units had no boost filtering so peak transient values were latched as peaks and displayed after a pull, sometime up to 1-2 higher than logs were seeing. ...anything to do with start up/self calibration procedure maybe? Not likely - The start up procedure is pretty straight forward. The VGB1 takes somthing like 64 samples of the the boost line pressure (assumed to be ATM pressure) then averages the value and stores that as the baseline ATM value to calculate boost psi and vac. If you are using the approved fuse location you should be all set. People who have used the wrong location (improper power sequencing) saw wild results, if I remember correctly they were seeing almost no vac and higher boost by a +8 PSI. All that being said if you think your unit is acting funny you can always PM me or email me and I can take a look at it. I know people depend on their gauges reading accurately so I take the concerns seriously. VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Thank you. I will take a look at the settings and report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec.B Dream Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Got this installed over the weekend. The gauge is great. I did have one issue on the commute this morning, the top button locked up. Later in the drive, it unlocked, so it must have done its recalibration thing. Unfortunately, my LC-1 (coincidentally?) crapped out right after install. I consistently get error code 8 a couple minutes into the drive (sensor will warm up, read correctly for a minute or two, and then error out). I would frequently get error 8 when I first got the LC-1 before downgrading firmware from 1.10 to 1.00a, and it was solid on 100.a for two years. I've read that the beta 1.2 firmware fixes this issue, but I can't get LM Programmer to update the firmware; it says "Can't access device" every time I try to update. So, my question is, since I'm done with Innovate after all the LC-1 issues, what wbO2 should I get now? I remember reading that the PLX and 14.7 NAW S7 are compatible. I'd prefer the 14.7 since it uses the analog out, but they aren't sold any more. So, for those of you running this with PLX, how do you log your wideband in RomRaider if you have the serial output plugged into the VBG1? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 7, 2013 Moderators Share Posted May 7, 2013 Got this installed over the weekend. The gauge is great. I did have one issue on the commute this morning, the top button locked up. Later in the drive, it unlocked, so it must have done its recalibration thing. Unfortunately, my LC-1 (coincidentally?) crapped out right after install. I consistently get error code 8 a couple minutes into the drive (sensor will warm up, read correctly for a minute or two, and then error out). I would frequently get error 8 when I first got the LC-1 before downgrading firmware from 1.10 to 1.00a, and it was solid on 100.a for two years. I've read that the beta 1.2 firmware fixes this issue, but I can't get LM Programmer to update the firmware; it says "Can't access device" every time I try to update. So, my question is, since I'm done with Innovate after all the LC-1 issues, what wbO2 should I get now? I remember reading that the PLX and 14.7 NAW S7 are compatible. I'd prefer the 14.7 since it uses the analog out, but they aren't sold any more. So, for those of you running this with PLX, how do you log your wideband in RomRaider if you have the serial output plugged into the VBG1? I just installed the PLX. Install was very easy and I made a cable to log directly to rom-raider. Strizzy helped me out big time with the DIY cable, but you can also just order one from PLX. You just get a stereo headphone jack spliter for the PLX unit and run one cable (1/8"-to-1/8" stereo) to the VBG, and then the same type of cable over to the laptop with the logging cable attached. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec.B Dream Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Great. Thanks! I just ordered the PLX unit from Amazon and the splitter, 6' cable, and 3.5mm to USB from gtboostgauge. After 3 burned sensors in 4 years and hours upon hours of frustration that I no longer have time for after having a child, I'm done with Innovate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec.B Dream Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 ...and now the gauge won't turn on today. The fuse is good. Connections are tight. Is my car telling me it is time for something new? I PM'd Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PtPixel Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Sweeeet just ordered a RHD one. Can't wait. Hope I don't get stung on the import tax in NZ though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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