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Automatic Shift Boot project - G/I... fabrication, cost and fitment

Soda Popinski

By Soda Popinski
in Interior/Audio

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Soda Popinski Mentor

Soda Popinski

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A while back I went searching for JDM shift boots for the 5EAT found in the 05-09 LGT's that are used in Japan. As far as I know, the only cars that come with an auto-shift boot are BMWs (as an option).

 

So I set out to make my own. I popped off the chrome trim ring bezel around the shift indicator (BTW that piece is worth $50 USD! Don't force it and crack it (see picture later for unfortunate event)).

 

This piece is subaru part number 35174 and costs $50.

 

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/cherrybloom203/shift%20boot%20lgt%2008/IMG00956.jpg

 

I traced out the pattern and decided on a 4-pannel pyramid shape, but because the bezel has rounded edges and different depth ring 'feet' I had to compensate. I went through 4 designs so I could get that 'depressed box' look when it was installed.

 

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/cherrybloom203/shift%20boot%20lgt%2008/IMG00962.jpg

 

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/cherrybloom203/shift%20boot%20lgt%2008/IMG00955.jpg

 

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/cherrybloom203/shift%20boot%20lgt%2008/IMG00957.jpg

 

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/cherrybloom203/shift%20boot%20lgt%2008/IMG00958.jpg

 

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/cherrybloom203/shift%20boot%20lgt%2008/IMG00959.jpg

 

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/cherrybloom203/shift%20boot%20lgt%2008/IMG00960.jpg

 

This was the result:

 

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/cherrybloom203/shift%20boot%20lgt%2008/IMG00969.jpg

 

The boot can compensate a lateral movement of 2" off center, enough to cover the entire gate, and 4" top to bottom to cover from P to M(-). When in "D" or approx center, the creases in the boot make it a pyramid with a perfect square around it. Only when it's at it's excursion does it look pulled.

 

There is a decorateive stitch 10mm off each side of the seam to match the pattern on the shift boot. It's subtle but makes the boot more attractive.

 

I found the closest material to our stock e-brake boot "nylon grain pleather" which has a white fabric to hold it's shape on the back, and the leather grain pattern on the front that closely matches the e-brake boot.

 

Cost on this was $16.99 for 1 yard, which was on sale at the time for $10.

 

The thread is heavy duty nylon thread, very durable I have to cut it, it can cut your skin if you try to break it by hand. That was a wal-mart find for $3, and the heavy curved needle to sew the boot's "surge" lines was 50 cents.

 

The pattern consists of 4 triangles of various heights and sizes. You don't need a bolt. I could make about 12 boots out of 1 bolt. I also had to buy a sewing machine capable of stitching through leather or heavy duty doubled up nylon. Best one is $70 at wal-mart (brother) - very simple easy to load sewer and won't break the bank. Plus it's handy if you ever ripped a seam or need to alter your clothes.

 

I also purchased the GT 6-speed MT shift boot, which mounts differently than the A/T indicator panel. I bought it to compare the installs and pattern. This is part number 92123 and cost me $45 + PA state tax. The main difference is that the indicator plate for MY piece was left in tact, the MT boot has no plate and thus, the boot dips BELOW the console.

 

My design alters nothing to the car except lifting the chrome bezel ring away from the console (carefully!) and unscrewing the shift knob. The boot slides over the shift shaft (install while car is in neutural with e-break on!) and be sure to have the wheels chocked. The leather surround fits around the line carved into the console base, and the ring is placed over it, securing the boot against the indicator plate and holding it down.

 

Gently tap the chrome bezel down. Don't rush it like I did, I got frusrated and the small tapered end is very thin on the left side and cracked.

 

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/cherrybloom203/shift%20boot%20lgt%2008/IMG00970.jpg

 

I am currently ordering a new ring.

 

My pattern is not complete, there is a change in design to incorperate less material bunching at the bottom which may have contributed to the crack as the crack is separated by almost 1/4 of an inch.

 

I also have plans for a 3-panel pyramid to see if that resolves the bunching.

 

If enough interest is there, I can fabricate any pattern and any fabric, including bride, leather, coach, canvas, gucci, etc.

 

Future expantions on this include the e-break boot as well, but I figured I would start with this.

 

Feedback and suggestions are welcome. It's a design in progress.

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Soda Popinski Mentor

Soda Popinski

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I ordered the MT boot to compare, and I'll crazy glue the ring, since it broke in a fashion I can fix it easy.

 

More updates when the real shift boot arrives. I'll try to adapt the part to fit the gate that;s in thee way.

 

I'm estimating costs for this are about $40 compared to the 100+ for the aftermarket or 45+ tax for the MT boot.

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Mitch Proficient

Mitch

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Great Job. I did this back a couple years ago with a boot purchased from REDLINE. I too broke the chrome trim ring.

 

Not a great pic. I like yours even better.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj305/Mitch_9_23_60/DSC00139.jpg

If I'm going faster than you, Move Right.
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underground000 Mentor

underground000

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Soda Popinski & Mitch:

you can try to use a soldering iron to melt the plastic trim. maybe if you used tape on the top to hold its shape and melt the plastic on the back of it

 

i cracked my fake wood trim, i melted the back of it, you cant really see the crack unless your looking for it

5eat downshift rev match:):wub:

Powder coated wheels: completed:)

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Mitch Proficient

Mitch

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http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2191/2239522239_7b804f2556_b.jpg

 

Underground, Thanks for the idea. I'm gonna look for one in a yard and soften it up beforehand.

If I'm going faster than you, Move Right.
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Soda Popinski Mentor

Soda Popinski

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I'll get pictures up soon, but the MT variant seems to be about 2" wider and taller (in the same shape) with no chrome ring.

 

The boot is also taller. I paid 45 for the boot, so I'll seam rip it, adjust for the hight difference, and I got some cool ideas looking at it.

 

1) Add a snap and collar for the top (easy to do)

2) Learned a better way to stitch the seams so it lays flat instead of bunching it.

3) Learned a better way to secure the top collar.

4) Will adjust for the angle of the console so it looks straight up instead of 90 deg off the console angle. ( _\_ instead of _|_ )

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Soda Popinski Mentor

Soda Popinski

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The trick is, that the 5-MT or 6-MT "square" is a larger cut out with nothing obstructing it. Roughly 50% larger than the auto trim ring. This project, I wanted to stick to a zero-impact aesthetic benefit without altercation. I don't want to resort to cutting anything. This means less chance to break.

 

The OEM stitching gave me an idea that has less bulk on the corners of the rhombus shaped bezel.

 

My stitching uses a seam and surge method, the OEM is a very cheaply made piece, imo, stapled to a plastic trim ring that screws in under the panel. The chrome bezel on an auto is $50 and I want to avoid stressing it so it doesn't break.

 

My stitching looks like the letter "T" when the seam comes together. It's roughly 3-4 times the thickness of the material.

 

The OEM stitching, while I think it's inferior, benefits because extra material is pulled together, stitched and then layed flat against itself, and then stitched again 1/4" away from the original seam on each side. Making the end result look like "==I==" instead of my "__I__".

 

I bought a snap plyer so I can add snaps to a future design. I bought black snaps and I'm looking for tan ones that match the tan material.

 

Thinner leather, nylon, pleather, cloth and snakeskin materials don't hold their shape well enough and need to have batting added to them, a process that's easy to apply with an iron, gives the cloth the rigitity to stand up and hold it's own.

 

I purchased an actual OEM 6-MT shift boot (same as the 5-MT on the i models) and I can exact-replicate it in any material.

 

My next step is to get ahold of the Emergency Brake Boot, but that costs $90 new. Ouch. If anyone has replaced theirs, and don't need their OEM one anymore, and it's intact, I might be willing to buy yours. Let me know.

 

 

9/15/09 - I hand stitched in about 1 hour a new prototype with slight changes in the pattern, curving slightly towards the rear of the car, hoping it improves the 'square around a cone' look. Pictures soon... photobucket doesn't want to work for me at the moment.

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Mitch Proficient

Mitch

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My next step is to get ahold of the Emergency Brake Boot, but that costs $90 new. Ouch. If anyone has replaced theirs, and don't need their OEM one anymore, and it's intact, I might be willing to buy yours. Let me know.

 

I'll look to see if my E=brake boot is around tonight or tomorrow. If I can find it, It's yours for a SASE.

If I'm going faster than you, Move Right.
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Soda Popinski Mentor

Soda Popinski

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there certainly is! I've got the patterns 100% for the 5 and 6 MT shift boot.

 

I'm modifying the AT boots now to look similar, and not require so much fabric bunching meaning less strain on the bezel.

 

My #1 goal is to make an affordable, OEM looking, and high quality shift boot option (and hopefully the e-brake boot) for the 4EAT, 5EAT, 5MT, 6MT versions of the 05+ legacy.

 

There's no reason to pay over 100 bucks for a shift boot, you use less than 2 square feet of material per boot, and a tiny amount of upholstery nylon thread and a snap.

 

I also want to make it zero-impact on the car in the way of modification. I don't want the end user cutting up bezels, dash parts, shift gates, knobs etc... I want to keep the directions like this:

 

1) unscrew the shift knob.

2) Lift the bezel out

3) place the boot around the shift gate, with the shifter sticking out of the hole.

4) replace the bezel snugly around the shift boot so it doesn't bunch or come out when gently tugged.

5) replace the shift knob.

6) Fasten the snap (if model comes with one)

 

stay tuned.

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