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Had a belt fall off today...any assistance appreciated...


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^Thanks, Bob!

 

So, I took a few minutes earlier this morning to record a video on how my crank pulley currently looks like when it's running. It seems like it's still in a pretty good condition. No obvious sign of delamination when I looked at it closely.

 

Here's how my crank pulley looks like when it's running (you may want to turn down the volume on your PC):

 

After a quick YouTube search, I found a video showing a wobbly crank pulley on a 2003 Forester:

 

I will keep an eye on it from time to time. When I do replace it, I'll replace both belts and the pulley altogether.

 

For EAT car, do I have to do anything beside putting the car in Park (P) mode to stop the crank pulley from moving while I unscrew it?

 

EDIT: It appears that I'll have to use screwdriver and insert it into a hole somewhere near the engine to stop the crankshaft from rotating.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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My ac compressor took a dump a while ago, and now the belt is starting to make noise. Would I run into any issues if I just took the belt off? And lets say i didn't want to run the power steering anymore. What size belt would I need to just run the alternator?
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IMO, not a good idea not to use the PS.

 

You can take a string, tie it around the area you want the belt to go then measure the string.

 

That's how long the belt should be.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Well I was unable to repair the existing one but I was able to remove the clutch assembly with the help of this walkthrough. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/c-compressor-clutch-replacement-diy-walkthrough-149236.html?t=149236&highlight=compressor+harness (sorry still learning the tricks here.) So no need to remove the entire compressor so that's cool.
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Yeah, what got destroyed on mine wasn't only the wire pigtail, but also a plastic connector integral to the stator itself. I couldn't figure out a way to fix it (at least not easily), and I think I'd still have had to remove the clutch and stator to do any sort of repair.

 

Glad you found the walk through helpful.

 

-Bob

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had this same problem and go the crank pulley replaced.

However, my AC is still not working because of the destroyed wiring harness. There are still 2 visible prongs visible on the compressor itself... would a new wiring harness work for this? Or do I need to buy a new compressor... I would like to ghetto rig this if at all possible.

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I wasn't able to figure out a way to make my mangled harness work. If there is enough contact surface left, I suppose you might be able to solder leads on, coat the connections with plastidip (or similar) and see how long it'll work. That will likely require that you cut the factory harness off the vehicle side to solder directly, and I wasn't willing to do that.

 

Otherwise, you can replace just the stator & clutch using parts from an eBay compressor. See link to the walk through a few posts up in #81.

 

-Bob

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wow, never knew about this thread!

--

Same thing happened to me - outback 2005/2.5/90,000miles but my problems were far worse :(

 

So I got that strange screeching sound one day and wondered what it was.

Booked an appointment the next day at my local shop. While driving to there,

there was a clunking sound and the car stalled. Wouldn't start anymore... That was 1km from the shop!! I called the guys and they towed me with an Outback/MY02:)

 

Verdict - the pully got delaminated. AC belt managed to eat thru the plastic cover of the timing belt, got under the belt -> engine damaged. :icon_cry:

Took them 2 weeks to repair it (engine out, heads off, 3 оr 4 valves had to be replaced). Anyway, got it fixed. This was last Novemer - weather pretty cold outside.

--

ffwd to March, trying to get my AC on - nothing. Quick check shows that

the connector has been chewed by the belt... guys at the shop hadn't noticed it.

 

Now I have to fix that

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The dealer won't do this, but an independent mechanic (or you) can. Rather than replace the entire compressor, you can get away with just replacing the pulley/clutch using parts off of a junkyard compressor. It should be significantly cheaper.

 

I wrote a walk through here:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/c-compressor-clutch-replacement-diy-walkthrough-149236.html?t=149236

 

Good luck!

 

-Bob

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

this shit just happened to me 2 weeks ago. screeching noise and i thought it was the car next to me. noise went away and i checked asap cause i thought i still heard something after the other car was gone. found the ac belt off. i cut it off cause i didnt have time right then. well just today i was showing a coworker what the damage was. i noticed the alt belt coming off... then noticed the pully coming apart. ugggghhhh

 

 

what are we using for replacment.

oem 12305aa251 137.97 from parts.com

atp (?) or doorman from autozone 79.99

atp or doorman from rock auto 59.79 and 53.79

and dayco premium from rockauto for 104

 

and then how many 'performance' pulys

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  • 2 months later...
This just happened to me this month. I got lucky in that I caught it early so only the connector was damaged. The timing belt cover was cut but ok underneath. Could have been worse I suppose.
It's not about speed, it's about acceleration!
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  • 1 year later...

same thing happened to me... hoping installing the new harness would fix it, but it looks like the compressor side of the connector is almost wiggling out of the cast aluminum.

 

a small metal bracket could have kept the belt away and kept $500 in my pocket:(

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  • 2 weeks later...
So the clutch and comp comes as an assembly. The cheapest fix i found is to find a salvage site and get a spare compressor with new connector. I found one at a junk yard for $60 with 55k miles on it.
It's not about speed, it's about acceleration!
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So the clutch and comp comes as an assembly. The cheapest fix i found is to find a salvage site and get a spare compressor with new connector. I found one at a junk yard for $60 with 55k miles on it.

 

$60 is cheap.

 

have you gotten it yet ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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