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Had a belt fall off today...any assistance appreciated...


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This happened to my girlfriend's 03' today - 90k miles. Luckily it didn't damage anything else. It looks as if from the pictures the 03' N/A Legacy's wiring configuration is different from the 05' LGT.

 

Here are some pictures -

 

http://i.imgur.com/xU4yx.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/AwwWz.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/1LUL2.jpg

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  • 1 month later...
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Playing a bit of catchup here guys, so hopefully a few of you get a "latest reply" type email and throw down some responses. Got the same "story from the wife" as the OP. Wife comes home and the car is smoking. I thought it might have been some leftover grease from the CV boot that went out a month or so back, but I check under the car and where both of the axles go in, and no grease. I pop the hood and do a little sniffing around and it smells like it's coming from the front of the engine. In addition to that, the belt that runs the compressor has pretty well had it. Very rough with chunks missing in some places. Oh and it should be mentioned that the car has squealed on startup the last two mornings (just found out about this). Obviously the belts need to be replaced, but is it pretty safe to assume that the burning smell is the pulley destroying itself because the innards have had it?

 

Final question... I have the "gold plus" extended warranty on this thing. Anyone know if that covers the pulley? When it was warm this evening I fired it up and it runs fine with no noise or smoke, and as far as I can tell visually there's nothing screwy with the pulley.

 

Any and all answers are appreciated.

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Playing a bit of catchup here guys, so hopefully a few of you get a "latest reply" type email and throw down some responses. Got the same "story from the wife" as the OP. Wife comes home and the car is smoking. I thought it might have been some leftover grease from the CV boot that went out a month or so back, but I check under the car and where both of the axles go in, and no grease. I pop the hood and do a little sniffing around and it smells like it's coming from the front of the engine. In addition to that, the belt that runs the compressor has pretty well had it. Very rough with chunks missing in some places. Oh and it should be mentioned that the car has squealed on startup the last two mornings (just found out about this). Obviously the belts need to be replaced, but is it pretty safe to assume that the burning smell is the pulley destroying itself because the innards have had it?

 

Final question... I have the "gold plus" extended warranty on this thing. Anyone know if that covers the pulley? When it was warm this evening I fired it up and it runs fine with no noise or smoke, and as far as I can tell visually there's nothing screwy with the pulley.

 

Any and all answers are appreciated.

 

you couldnt try to find out if the dealer will cover it or you can just save yourself some time and trouble by just buying an aftermarket pulley such as cobb/perrin. look at all the stuff this pulley will destroy if it goes. i would just buy it and chalk it calling it preventive maintenance.

OTM.

Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about ;).
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and for those inquiring.........the pulley takes about 2 minutes to replace. remove both belts. this is done by a ratchet and a socket. release the tension on the belts by unscrewing the bolts ( belt tensioners ) and the one on the alternator. remove the belts or let them hang. on a 5 speed place the car in 5th gear and counterclockwise remove the big bolt. install new pulley ( be sure to line up the key ) and tighten it down. install belts. done.

OTM.

Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about ;).
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and for those inquiring.........the pulley takes about 2 minutes to replace. remove both belts. this is done by a ratchet and a socket. release the tension on the belts by unscrewing the bolts ( belt tensioners ) and the one on the alternator. remove the belts or let them hang. on a 5 speed place the car in 5th gear and counterclockwise remove the big bolt. install new pulley ( be sure to line up the key ) and tighten it down. install belts. done.

 

Yeah changing the pulley was really easy. It took about 20 minutes, including prep time. Unfortunately the pulley can be quite expensive ( I was quoted over 150$+ from 5 different places ). Luckily I just happened to get one for free.

 

Good luck!!

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Guys and girls, I recomend 60K on those belts. I've seen a few that got caught around the crank pulley, cracked the timing cover and skipped the timing belt. I just pulled a 100K Alt. belt off a members car last weekend and it was hanging by a thread, literally.
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Alright all good info. I figured a post would drum up a few responses. It should be noted that the car is right at the 75k mark which is where everyone else is reporting their problems as well. I'll see if Subaru will cover it and go from there. If they'll replace the part and I can get off free sans belt cost, I'll do that, otherwise I'll go aftermarket. If I could source and aftermarket one local, I'd do it regardless but something tells me odds of that are low.

 

Anyone know of a shop in or near Austin,Tx that would stock a Cobb or Perrin pulley? :D

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Looks like I'm just going to swap the belts at this time. I went home and pulled the engine cover and fired it up from a cold state, which is when the wife heard the noise before. Absolutely no noise or drama whatsoever. I also was able to get a real close look at the pulley. That thing appears to be in perfect condition, and runs absolutely true. No apparent failure in it at this time. Money is tight, for so many reasons not even including Xmas, so I'm going to go the short route for now. Plus, I just don't think it needs to be done, atleast not yet. I'll keep an eye on it though and if it starts acting weird, it'll go to the dealer for replacement under warranty (still need to confirm coverage). In the meantime I picked up the Dayco belts from the local Advance store and they'll be going on tonight.

 

As far as the smoke is concerned, all I can surmise is that the belt was slipping during driving (with no apparent noise) and causing the belt to burn a bit, OR it's shedding tiny belt pieces on to hot engine surfaces which are then melting and burning and I didn't feel like that one was a stretch at all. Who knows. We'll find out after the new belts go on I suppose.

 

FWIW, I called around and found a local shop that can get the Perrin and Cobb stuff. The owner recommended against them on a completely stock ride like mine. Specific concerns were the dramatic change in rotating weight/mass causing potential damage to mains, etc. He recommended one from Fluidampr. Anyway, neither here nor there but he's comments all seemed plausible and were things that had crossed my mind and been dismissed. Either way, doesn't matter at the moment but I wanted to mention it here.

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  • 2 months later...
My idler AC pulley failed and then the nut fell off the tensioner. This caused the belt to jump off the pulleys. I think my crank pulley is ok, but it looks like the only place to get a new tensioner is from Subaru. I picked up a metal idler pulley from autozone
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  • 2 weeks later...
and for those inquiring.........the pulley takes about 2 minutes to replace. remove both belts. this is done by a ratchet and a socket. release the tension on the belts by unscrewing the bolts ( belt tensioners ) and the one on the alternator. remove the belts or let them hang. on a 5 speed place the car in 5th gear and counterclockwise remove the big bolt. install new pulley ( be sure to line up the key ) and tighten it down. install belts. done.

 

Does putting it in 5th gear also pertain to a 6 speed

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Looks like I'm just going to swap the belts at this time. I went home and pulled the engine cover and fired it up from a cold state, which is when the wife heard the noise before. Absolutely no noise or drama whatsoever. I also was able to get a real close look at the pulley. That thing appears to be in perfect condition, and runs absolutely true. No apparent failure in it at this time. Money is tight, for so many reasons not even including Xmas, so I'm going to go the short route for now. Plus, I just don't think it needs to be done, atleast not yet. I'll keep an eye on it though and if it starts acting weird, it'll go to the dealer for replacement under warranty (still need to confirm coverage). In the meantime I picked up the Dayco belts from the local Advance store and they'll be going on tonight.

 

As far as the smoke is concerned, all I can surmise is that the belt was slipping during driving (with no apparent noise) and causing the belt to burn a bit, OR it's shedding tiny belt pieces on to hot engine surfaces which are then melting and burning and I didn't feel like that one was a stretch at all. Who knows. We'll find out after the new belts go on I suppose.

 

FWIW, I called around and found a local shop that can get the Perrin and Cobb stuff. The owner recommended against them on a completely stock ride like mine. Specific concerns were the dramatic change in rotating weight/mass causing potential damage to mains, etc. He recommended one from Fluidampr. Anyway, neither here nor there but he's comments all seemed plausible and were things that had crossed my mind and been dismissed. Either way, doesn't matter at the moment but I wanted to mention it here.

 

Is fludampr aftermarket?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just replaced my belts at 75k miles. I used to have a Unothodox racing pulley on but I have been back to stock for a while. So I don't have a full 75k on the crank pulley. So I put the belts on and I am noticing an almost supercharger type sound when I accelerate. Its not loud and it isn't a screeching like belts slipping. I feel like the car is just spinning with no power but slipping belts shouldn't casue a loss of power right?

 

2005 LGT. So I went to get gas and stopped at home my main belt was riding up on the rim of the accessory pulley. I was like WFT. It appears that the accessory pully is "out" about a half inch towards the front bumper compared to all the other pullies. So the crank and alternator being slightly back must have pulled it up over the lip so it would ride true. I don't understand this at all. I used Dayco belts and they seem to have much more shallow grooves then the OEM belt did. I wonder if this is the problem or if it the fact that the accessory pulley is not aligned or is my belt tension off? WTF. This shouldn't be this hard

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I had the exact same issue with the crank pulley separating. During the drive, the outer drive sruface slips forwards and backwards on the inner surface (I think they were connected by vulcanized rubber). It pulled my AC belt off exactly as the first picture showed, and melted/destroyed the wiring harness for the electric clutch on the AC compressor. New pulley from scrap yard was sourced, but I should have bought a light weight option. A friend wired up the protruding contacts back into the wires, so AC still works, it just is missing the harness.
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MBlock,

 

When I looked at the pulley as the motor was idling, I could see very small movement forward and backward, which led to the belt being pulled off the top AC pulley, kind of like a bicycle shifting gears.

 

The way I confirmed it was a before and after starting the motor. Make a note or take a picture of the pulley and the position of the outer pulley relative to the inner. Start them motor, idle, then shut off. Take note of the position again. I found that sometimes the outer pulley was ahead of the inner, forming a bowl. After idling, the outer was perfectly flush with the inner, so both surfaces were totally in alignment.

 

I hope that helps.

 

Don

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  • 1 year later...

back from the dead lol

so had this happen to me tonight, though the crank pulley doesn't look as though it's delaminating at all. It threw the belt as everyone has stated/pictured. Now I haven't had the chance to pull the alt/ps belt yet, but started the car without the ac belt, and noticed the crank pulley has a slight slight "wobble", just looks as though it's vibrating. Is this normal for the cp or is this a sign of the cp having issues?

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back from the dead lol

so had this happen to me tonight, though the crank pulley doesn't look as though it's delaminating at all. It threw the belt as everyone has stated/pictured. Now I haven't had the chance to pull the alt/ps belt yet, but started the car without the ac belt, and noticed the crank pulley has a slight slight "wobble", just looks as though it's vibrating. Is this normal for the cp or is this a sign of the cp having issues?

 

The combination of it having thrown a belt and having a visible wobble would make me *strongly* suspect that the crank pulley is having this problem. If the thrown belt didn't destroy your A/C compressor wiring harness (this time), count yourself lucky and replace the crank pulley ASAP (and do without A/C until you do). It'll save you a lot of hassle if it happens again and you don't get lucky. :)

 

-Bob

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back from the dead lol

so had this happen to me tonight, though the crank pulley doesn't look as though it's delaminating at all. It threw the belt as everyone has stated/pictured. Now I haven't had the chance to pull the alt/ps belt yet, but started the car without the ac belt, and noticed the crank pulley has a slight slight "wobble", just looks as though it's vibrating. Is this normal for the cp or is this a sign of the cp having issues?

 

Count your blesssings and change the crank pulley asap.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Lost my crank pulley on the way home from work today (car has 102k). It completely split in 2 and shredded the belt. It was late and I was 2mi from the Subbie dealer so I just had them do it.

 

I think I got lucky with not having the AC comp. wiring damaged. but I'll have to take a close look tomorrow.

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  • 1 month later...

omg. Good thing I stumbled upon this thread. I will check my crank pulley as well tonight.

 

Post #29 really gave good indicator which pulley to replace.

 

A search for "Timing Belt" on Subaru Parts website returns two items:

1. ENGINE / CAMSHAFT & TIMING / CAMSHAFT & TIMING / TIMING BELT

2. ENGINE / ENGINE / TRANSAXLE / ENGINE PARTS / TIMING BELT

 

Both links points to two different diagrams, but, they seem to point to the same part:

http://www.trademotion.com/schematics/7/7523220.gif

 

So, the pulley we're talking about here is #1 and the belt is #3 on the diagram, correct?

 

Crank pulley and timing belt are $158.36 and $63.32 respectively, online price.

 

Earlier post seems to suggest that there are two belts that we can replace. Which one is the other one? Can someone help point it out? Thanks!

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^So, it's part #3 on this diagram? Timing Belt is the one inside the cover? So, the crank pulley is connected to both belts, right?

 

http://www.trademotion.com/schematics/7/7523050.gif

 

EDIT: The alternator belt is part #1 on the diagram above. The picture threw me of a little. I thought that's a some kind of cover.

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^So, it's part #3 on this diagram? Timing Belt is the one inside the cover? So, the crank pulley is connected to both belts, right?

 

 

 

EDIT: The alternator belt is part #1 on the diagram above. The picture threw me of a little. I thought that's a some kind of cover.

 

Yeah, looks to me like #1 is the alternator belt and #3 is the A/C belt. The crank pulley is connected to both. What seems to happen in most cases is the A/C belt gets thrown, often chewing up the A/C compressor wiring harness and/or the timing belt cover.

 

The timing belt is inside the plastic cover that is behind the accessory belts.

 

If your A/C compressor wiring harness is chewed up, you can either have the entire compressor replaced (which means evacuating the sealed system, etc., a job best left to pros unless you *really* know what you're doing) or you can replace just the A/C pulley & wiring harness assembly with parts from a junkyard compressor. I have a DIY thread here on that job.

 

In any case, replacing just the belt(s) is not going to fix anything ... the crank pulley needs to be replaced. And, don't replace it with an OEM pulley, replace it with an aftermarket pulley that won't have this problem again. :)

 

-Bob

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