SoloTSi97

The pulley won't turn at all? Is the clutch engaged or disengaged? Belt on or off? With the belt on, you won't be able to turn the pulley by hand, because you're trying to turn the engine crankshaft by hand. And, assuming you're not built like The Rock, you aren't going to be able to do that. With the belt OFF and the clutch DISENGAGED (so there's an air gap between the outer clutch plate and the pulley), the outer clutch plate should spin with some resistance. Here, you're actually turning the shaft inside the compressor, so you'll feel the resistance of that, but you should still be able to turn it by hand. If you can't, the compressor is seized. This can be for a variety of reasons, including low/no freon, not enough compressor oil in the freon, or a seized internal compressor bearing. Adding freon *might* fix the problem, but most likely the compressor is hosed. With the belt OFF and the clutch DISENGAGED, the pulley should spin freely on the compressor shaft. You should feel little or no resistance to spinning the pulley. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, either the clutch is engaged or the bearing inside the pulley is seized (so you're turning the compressor shaft rather than just the pulley). If the pulley won't spin *at all*, then the bearing inside the pulley is seized AND the compressor is seized. Most likely, the pulley bearing has been seized for a while, which means the compressor has been run 100% of the time regardless of clutch engagement/disengagement, and the compressor got worn out as a result. Hope that helps. -Bob

I'm pretty sure that I did the whole job with this set, which I already had on hand. I actually bought my set at Autozone, but it's the same pliers: https://www.harborfreight.com/snap-ring-pliers-with-interchangeable-heads-60531.html The 45-degree attachment was the most useful. -Bob PS: I'd invite others to share their more recent experience since it's been several years since I did this job.

Are you sure it's the clutch itself making noise? A bad noise like that when the clutch is engaged may actually indicate a bearing problem in the compressor itself. Since the compressor only spins when the clutch is engaged, you'd only hear bearing noise when the clutch is engaged (unlike when this happens with an alternator or power steering pump, where the squeal is constant because those are always spinning). Just a thought! -Bob

How many washers are in there? Just one? If so, given the pretty poor tolerance on washer thickness, you might try visiting your local hardware store and picking through the bin for a thinner washer in the same diameter? If you have the means to machine the washer to be thinner, that's certainly an option I guess. Sorry, I didn't have this issue. And, having sold my LGT about five years ago, I don't have the means to be terribly helpful beyond what I remember from documenting this job.

The "wavy" washer is not the snap ring. The snap ring is shaped like a C (not a full circle) that fits into a groove on the compressor shaft. When taking mine apart, once the snap ring was removed, there was no resistance at all holding the pulley on. Good luck! Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

If the AC works, there is no reason to do this particular fix. I'd suspect that there's another reason for the CEL, which is causing the engine to not run at 100%, and the added strain of the compressor kicking on is just making the problem worse or more noticeable. The CEL could be all kinds of things, so best to do what you plan and have the codes read. Good luck!

Over time, any compressor gets harder to turn... whether it's the bearings or need of a recharge with lubricant or what, I'm not sure. Could it just be that when the compressor kicks on, it's causing enough strain on the idling engine that it vibrates? I never noticed that with my Legacy, but have noticed it in other high-mileage 4-cylinders that I've owned. Do your RPMs drop while the compressor is running, even slightly? This alone wouldn't worry me, unless it was a pretty bad vibration.

Glad it helped. :-) -Bob

Agreed. Based on the severity of the vibration you describe, it's unlikely to be related to the A/C compressor. If it was, you'd be able to see the compressor vibrating (more like jumping around) with the hood up if it feels like a jackhammer in the car!

Clutch is possible, though that sounds more like the bearings in the compressor itself have had it. I suppose if you can find a cheap/free compressor to steal the clutch from and try it yourself, it may pay off. More likely, you're going to need to replace the compressor, though, which probably means having a pro do the work. Just my $.02. -Bob

You probably bought the same set I did at Autozone. Oh well, one can never have too many tools. :-) Good deal!

Hope it helps ... good luck! I sold my LGT a couple of weeks ago, and the fixed compressor with a Perrin crank pulley never hiccuped once. :-) -Bob

I have the same complaint using a dock connector with both an iPhone 3GS and an iPhone 4S. I think it was made worse when I added the ground loop isolator. It's not terrible, but I have to turn the radio up to at least 30 with audiobooks and even higher for Pandora. I may look into those pre-amp ideas, though. -Bob

The P/S pump does not have a clutch ... it is working all the time. (Neither does the alternator ... only the A/C compressor does, since it switches on and off rather than actually running all the time). The P/S pump is driven by a separate belt from the A/C compressor, so any issue with the A/C clutch should have no effect on the power steering. If the mechanic said that there is rust/corrosion behind the clutch assembly, I don't think he was talking about power steering? It is true that tightening a belt too much will cause wear on the bearings in whatever the belt is driving, but there are two belts in there ... one drives power steering & alternator, and the other drives the A/C compressor. -Bob

The two times I had a pressure problem, they were caused by damage to the condenser and the symptom was a *gradual* loss of cooling ability, not a sudden loss of A/C function. That said, both experiences were in other vehicles. You can tell if the magnetic clutch is engaging just by looking at it. When not engaged (A/C system turned completely off), the center section of the pulley does not turn. If you turn the A/C on (manual mode so you know it should be running), the center section of the pulley should start to turn as the clutch engages. If you see this happen, it's not likely the clutch itself. Of course, it could certainly still be the compressor. I don't have experience with troubleshooting A/C systems, so hopefully others have more advice for you! -Bob

Glad it helped!

FYI, my kit does have both an iPod dock connector and a 3.5mm stereo input. -Bob

I'll have to double check, but I'm pretty sure the kit has both an iPod dock and a 3.5mm male ... I'm pretty sure I tucked the 3.5mm wire under some trim when I installed it. I'll try to remember to check when I drive into work. -Bob

After my 2006 LGT fell victim to the crank pulley delamination problem, which threw an A/C belt and destroyed my A/C wiring harness, I was faced with having the A/C compressor replaced ($820 at the dealer). The service manual makes no mention of the magnetic clutch assembly being replaceable/serviceable on the compressor. In fact, the manual claims that if the clutch is faulty, the entire compressor must be replaced. As it turns out, replacing the magnetic clutch assembly is not only possible ... it's actually very straightforward. This is very useful information if you're replacing a destroyed wiring harness like I was. The wiring harness is part of the magnetic clutch, NOT the compressor itself. So, rather than having a new compressor installed ... hit eBay up for a used junkyard compressor (I got mine for $85 shipped), and just swap the magnetic clutch! Tools required: Phillips screwdriver (to remove the plastic engine cover) Ratchet 10mm & 12mm sockets 4" & 8" extensions (needed to easily remove the v-belt cover) Snap ring pliers, preferably both straight and bent (or a small-bladed flat screwdriver, if you're patient) Feeler gauge Optional: Large channel lock pliers, chain wrench, or deep well socket (see below) Prep work: First, pop the hood and remove the plastic engine cover. Then, using 10mm & 12mm sockets, remove the v-belt cover. Using a 12mm socket, loosen the A/C v-belt (if present). You don't need to completely remove the A/C v-belt, but you will want to pull it off of the compressor pulley and move it out of your way. Clutch replacement: First, you need to remove the 10mm bolt holding the clutch itself on: You can do this easily with a ratchet and 10mm socket. The only catch is that the clutch will spin with the bolt. So, you need to hold the clutch from spinning while you loosen the bolt. You could do this with a very big channel lock pliers, a chain wrench, or just wedge something in there so that the clutch won't turn. In my case, I wedged a deep well 11mm socket (honestly, the 4" socket extension would probably work just as well): Once the bolt comes out, the outer clutch half will just slide right off. You'll see the snap ring that holds the compressor pulley on. If you are planning to reuse your existing clutch parts (pulley & outer clutch half), PAY ATTENTION TO HOW MANY WASHERS ARE IN PLACE HERE (see picture). These washers act as shims to ensure proper clutch clearance, and in some cases you may have more than one (mine had two): Once you've set the washer(s) aside, you need to remove the snap ring holding the pulley on. This can be done with a snap ring pliers, or a small flat screwdriver. With a small screwdriver, you simply work around the ring prying it out from the groove it's seated in. With a snap ring pliers ... well, if you have a snap ring pliers you know how it works. Once the snap ring is removed, the pulley will slide right off. What's left now is the electromagnet that engages & disengages the clutch, turning the compressor on and off. This is the part that needs to be replaced if your wiring harness was destroyed by a thrown v-belt. This is also held in by a snap ring, which is easiest to get to with a big set of 45-degree bent snap ring pliers. If you're going to try and remove this one with a flat blade screwdriver, be very careful not to gouge the shaft on which the pulley bearing sits: Once the snap ring is removed, the magnet will slide right off of the compressor. At this point, perform these same steps on your junkyard compressor, removing the clutch, pulley, and magnet. Installation is the reverse of removal. Two notes on reinstallation: First, the outer clutch slides onto a splined shaft (as seen in photos above). The clutch and the splined shaft are keyed, so don't force the clutch onto the shaft if it resists. There is a black dot (seen in photos above) on the splined shaft. This must mate up with a flat spot on the inside of the clutch: Second, if you're reusing the clutch & pulley from your old compressor, just make sure you put any and all washers back on BEFORE the outer clutch half. With the proper number & thickness of washers in place, you should find that the clearance between the clutch surfaces (measured with a feeler gauge) is within the spec listed in the factory service manual: 0.45-0.15 mm (0.0177-0.0059 in). That's it! Hopefully someone finds this useful!

For reference, I usually have the radio on about 8 and my iPhone on about 15 (with noise suppressor installed). That's when playing from iPod ... For some reason, pandora is quieter and I'm up around 20. But that's probably less applicable to your situation since it's probably iPhone/iPod specific -Bob

I took the radio back out to install the noise suppressor and decided to do some digging and figure out why I had the problem with the CD changer initially. As it turns out, the instructions that accompanied my unit weren't exactly correct when it comes to the "testing it out" phase. The instructions call for reassembling the CD changer into the radio, replacing the controls on the front of the unit and taking it out to the car for testing. The instructions call for plugging in ONLY the white wire harness and testing for proper operation. In my case, this allowed the CD changer to cycle and count CDs when plugged in, but would not allow a CD to be loaded. I discovered that if I connected the chassis ground wire as well, everything worked fine. The chassis ground wire is a single black wire coming out of the same wire loom as the white wire harness. It simply clips onto a metal tab on the back of the radio. I'm guessing that the motor that loads a CD grounds itself through the radio chassis and wasn't being grounded properly in my case. If you happen to set the radio into the dash in such a way that the chassis is grounded anyway, everything probably works fine. But, I had mine sitting out of the dash far enough that it wasn't grounded at all and that led to my problems. So, when testing the unit out, make sure you attach this extra wire and you won't end up pulling your hair out trying to figure out how you screwed up this simple installation! :-) Anyway, hope this helps someone out in the future ... now to order one of those fancy cubby mounts! -Bob

Scratch that. I gave up on a reply here or from the seller (I emailed via the web site separately) and went ahead and reinstalled everything (with the iPod hookup intact, hoping that it would just start working as ctgilbertsson posted previously). Once everything was hooked back up and the dash was back together, the unit accepted the silent CD and all is well. Great product, would definitely recommend. In all of the trips to/from the car with the head unit, I did manage to forget to install the ground loop suppressor. So, it'll be coming apart one last time to take care of that ... the alternator whine is significant. The sound is great, though ... I'm rocking Pandora in the car now and it's great! -Bob

I received my iPod pro kit today, followed the instructions, and am facing this same problem. The CD changer starts up and counts CDs. When I press "LOAD", the changer moves and appears ready to accept a CD. But, when I insert a CD into the slot, the unit never "takes" the CD from me. My car's no longer under warranty, so having the dealer replace the unit isn't an option. Did anyone else run into this? I've tried removing the iPod kit and have the same issue, so something else is going on. I've double- and triple-checked the connections, everything appears fine. I don't use the changer anyway, so it's really not the end of the world for me ... except that I really wanna hook up my iPhone! Any advice appreciated ... -Bob

Lovin' your 2005 vacation pix. Thanks for sharing!! -Bob