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Intake silencer removal walk-through


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  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I removed the silencer and was told avidly by my dyno tuner to keep it on, it serves a purpose and has an effect on the maf readings. He then referred me to a study done with/without the silencer on the dyno....and here it is....read it.

 

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/power-bragging/207168-2011-subaru-sti-baseline-pulls-initial-mods-custom-dyno-tuning.html

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  • 4 months later...
Removed mine tonight and it seemed fine, then I covered the hole with a plastic cup and the engine started running rich. Bad luck for me cuz the check engine light came on (solid) and the cruise control light (blinking). I just put everything back and the engine is running back to normal but the check engine and cruise light are still on. Hope it goes away tomorrow morning.
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Yep, So this morning the CEL was still on. So I went to Advance autoparts to get the scanner, when I plugged it in the scanner would give no code at all. That was weird. Well anyways I held down the erase key and erased it despite there was no code displayed. After that I started the engine and started to low the rpm at idle so low that the engine almost stalled but then it stabilized. Still the engine felt rich, after some minutes I opened the filter box while the engine running. Looks like it sucked a good bunch of air and stabilized again. Now it running as it used to. So... my recommendation is DO NOT REMOVE THE INTAKE SILENCER AND TAP THE HOLE. Maybe remove it and leave the hole open.
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Yep, So this morning the CEL was still on. So I went to Advance autoparts to get the scanner, when I plugged it in the scanner would give no code at all. That was weird. Well anyways I held down the erase key and erased it despite there was no code displayed. After that I started the engine and started to low the rpm at idle so low that the engine almost stalled but then it stabilized. Still the engine felt rich, after some minutes I opened the filter box while the engine running. Looks like it sucked a good bunch of air and stabilized again. Now it running as it used to. So... my recommendation is DO NOT REMOVE THE INTAKE SILENCER AND TAP THE HOLE. Maybe remove it and leave the hole open.

 

that usually happens when you clear codes. . .

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  • 2 months later...
I just looked at the original post and noticed a lot of red x's. That is fixed now for anyone who wants to continue using this walk-through. Have fun!

2012 Xterra Pro-4X

2003 Outback Sedan Limited

 

D.U.S.T.O.F.F.

"Dedicated Unhesitating Service To Our Fighting Forces"

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  • 1 month later...

I just wanted to say I've had my silencer removed and the hole open for over 2 years now and never had an issue. I can't say I've monitored IATs closely but I see no evidence of any increase.

When I am cruising the difference from ambient is about 5 degrees or less, depending on weather. In traffic, it all depends on how long I have stopped for.

Affecting the MAF makes no sense since it is located behind the panel filter, therefore readings should be the same given the same location and piping diameter.

I had mine capped at one time and to be honest the only reason I took it out is because I was told it would flow somewhat better.

The reason I even posted here is because I've started wondering if I should cap it after all. It does get hot in the engine bay. However, given the fact that when moving, air is being sucked from the front, I think high IATs may be an issue only when stopped in traffic, etc.

 

I am interested though in hearing if anyone has seen anything different regarding IATs etc.

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I currently have some trims issues as well as random phantom fbkc/flkc going on in addition to the MAF occasionally not "settling", meaning fluctuating readings under dead constant throttle on straight road. If it were going bad it would show other signs.

I am throwing the jug back on for diagnistics purposes and will see what impact it had.

Either way I was working under the car just the other day and when I saw the big gaping hole facing the hot engine bay it made me rethink the wisdom of leaving it open like that.

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not really, not sure if you noticed but on some intakes that use cone filters, like the AEM, the intake tube has lateral slats right before the maf to direct the air and reduce turbulent swirling. and this is with a cone filter that presumably has equal flow in from 360*, opposed to the air box that would have 2 openings- the placentectomy and intake duct hole. I think with 2 orifices, the air intersects like an intersection without traffic lights and causes some type of weird interaction/swirl/collision with the air. I'm not sure if the stock filter, or really any panel filter, does anything to direct air in an orderly fashion.

 

 

http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSauLPzjk6xKXwtmBB6vVYjaeRmEFQSqVne0rm9ooq_TGc-S81SOEUmfQh2

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