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I saw the guy in the hall again yesterday afternoon and he told me he's putting on a boost controller to bump it up to 14psi. I told him to get good at rebuilding his engine. :lol:

 

Well if he has a good tune he might be able to pull it off, for a while

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That honda would whoop anything it raced... Mainly cause its not a Honda... It's superman in the form of a car (no one has mentioned the superman badge on the hood where the Honda symbol should go)

 

:rolleyes:

 

:lol:

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pushing 260hp at the wheels but only 200lbs of torque. Is that normal for a rotary?

 

Pretty much. The tq number is slightly lower then what you would see on a 7, but the 8 has the lightest internals for a 13b so thats probably why.

 

In reality it does not matter as tq and hp are related. Horsepower = (tq*rpm)/5252

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EDIT: I asked about any work on the internals... bone stock! :eek:

 

What did you expect? There are no real good other internals for any rotary. About the only thing you can get for it is ceramic apex seals. Some 7's are running 20+ lbs of boost on stock seals, and way more on ceramic seals.

 

The low boost is more due to the 10:1 compression ratio of the rotors.

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but i can hate on the rotary. It sucks

 

Yeah, because everyone I know is an expert on rotaries and they say the apex seals blow every day and rotary owners rebuild the engine every night just to drive to work the next morning. They suck.

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Me, personally, I prefer not to have rotating geometric shapes making my horsepower and burning my oil.

 

Yeah, the burning oil thing. As long as you change your oil regularly you are fine. Pre-mixing...thats another story. Instead of rotating geometric shapes you have a geometric shape that goes up and down.

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Yeah, the burning oil thing. As long as you change your oil regularly you are fine. Pre-mixing...thats another story. Instead of rotating geometric shapes you have a geometric shape that goes up and down.

They only go up and down if you are driving across a wall, my tires don't have that much friction :rolleyes:

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Yeah, how the hell do they do weigh so damn much? And don't forget they run hot as balls, too.

 

The turbo rx-7s were all iron blocks and the new rx-8 is all aluminum so it is lighter than the old ones. But rx-8s cant make the power the rx-7 engines could even turboed unless they have a full engine overhaul done to them.

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The RX7's used Aluminum Rotor housings and Iron Side Housings. They also use Iron rotors. Plus rotaries are full of metal on the inside, whereas most piston engines have lots of space in them.

 

Current RX8's still use the same thing. RX8's differ because the exhaust is put on the side housings as opposed to the rotor housing. Side exhaust vs Peripheral Exhaust. The new 16X motor in development finally uses aluminum side housings. Though there is no confirmation on aluminum rotors. I would doubt it due to the loss of tq.

 

3rd Gen RX7s made 220 at the wheels, the 8 makes 170ish at the wheels. The 3rd gen was all twin turbo and the 8 is all n/a. The basic GReddy kit puts the 8 to 260rwhp, and the step up is to 320rwhp. These are both on the stock block and around 4/6k.

 

There is no such thing as a 'full engine overhaul' Everyone pretty much uses the stock block because there is nothing else to use. The only thing people really do is pin the motor when they are shooting for around 500+ rwhp.

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Reliability, no trq, worse gas mileage, oil consumption, and truth be told they arent the lightest engines.

 

Reliability: I give you this point on 3rd gen RX7's. They last about 60k rebuild to rebuild. First and Second Gen RX7's are very reliable, especially in n/a form. 8's are hit or miss, most people without problems follow the FSM that states you should redline the car under load at least once every time you drive it. This is to clear up carbon on the new side exhaust.

 

No Trq: Personal preference, trq means nothing in racing.

 

Oil Consumption: WAAAAAAAAAAA. Thats about all I hear, big woop. You are asuming that oil consumption is a bad thing because on piston cars it is a bad thing. Rotaries burn oil by design, meaning if you make regular oil changes, you know like...taking care of your car, its no big deal.

 

Gas Mileage: 7's were quasi respectible, n/a even hit 25 on the highway! The new 8's are shit. I will concede this point. The only 'excuse' is that rotaries have billions and billions and billions of development disadvantage to piston engines.

 

Light Engine Thing: Read above post, though the 7s did have a huge weight advantage. The 8, not so much.

 

I would counter saying.

 

HP: The rotary makes more HP per litre then any other engine. Properly modded 13b's have hit the 1200hp mark and run 6s in the 1/4 mi.

 

Size: Its a little known fact that RX's are not Front Engine cars, The engine is mountet so low and so far back, the entire engine fits behind the front axle. If it existed, the car would be a front-mid engine configuration. This helps in all the RX's in the handling department.

 

Reliable for Racing: Rotaries go an entire race season without being rebuild, piston engines are rebuilt after every race. Rotaries also lose minimal power over a race, opposed to a piston engine losing a considerable amount of power from start to finish. (Mostly talking about endurance racing)

 

Withstand Abuse: Rotaries can withstand gobs and gobs of abuse and not fail. This is largely in part to the fact that there are no valves/cams/or any junk that moves up and down. I dare you to go buy a properly maintained rotary and try to break it while continuing maintanance. Plus you can build the junkiest rebuilds and still have them last 20k+ miles. Rotaries also last longer under heavily modded conditions then piston engines.

 

Smoothness: 9.2k stock redline on the 8, 7+ on various 7's with all of them taking up to 8k.

 

I, unlike most rotary afficiandos, will never tell you a rotary belongs anywhere but sports cars and race cars. They will never haul anything more then you and a passanger, never launch a car with gut wrenching power off the line, and won't make peace on earth. But if you are looking at a sports car or race car, the Rotary is a very high potential motor.

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The only thing I think of that has an excuse for burning oil is a 2 stroke.

 

Injecting oil into the motor does three distinct things.

 

1. Because the seal at the apex's of the rotor are so far away from the oiling system, oil is sprayed into the chamber to lubricate the apex seals. This doesn't mean that without this oil the apex seals fail immediately, but the oil needs to be there to continually lubricate the seals. The housing is designed to hold oil and help with this.

 

2. Because the rotor is wide the apex seal can have sealing issues, the oil will spread across the seals and complete the seal, thus providing a complete seal and slightly higher compression.

 

3. As you incorrectly mentioned earlier, the rotary does NOT run as hot as balls, it runs 100X hotter then balls falling just short of the sun. Injecting oil also helps to cool the rotors and intake charge.

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Horsepower is Torque / RPM X 5252.

If you want to find HP at a specific RPM, simply plug in the RPM into the second part of the equation

To find Torque, reverse the equation inserting HP for torque.

 

A 500 HP Honda Civic with it's peak torque at 9,000 RPM gets about 360 Ft/Lbs of torque

A 360 HP V8 with it's peak torque at 5200 RPM gets about 360 Ft/Lbs as well. The only real difference is the V8 has the HP and Torque where you need it... ;)

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