05leggtlimited Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 installed axle shaft today. A note I would like to add for the New England guys if it hasn't been mentioned already. soak your bolts previously! The balljoint pinch bolt sheared on me. drill swear repeat. note :You can drill from the back side with a straight shot if you remove caliper. In removing the balljoint I cracked the knuckle. DO not use a chisel to spread the knuckle or be very gentle. In all this horsing around the balljoint with 114k failed. Long story short, 1 balljoint, 1 knuckle, 1 end link that was also frozen later its back together. Be methodical and work slow, stuff breaks if not. hope this helps someone to avoid my situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subawang Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 This video rocks! Super easy way of changing inner boots without removing axle from wheel hub or transmission. Took me 45 min. Skip ahead to 5:00 for the action Just swapped out my torn cv boot using this procedure. Big thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fasemelta Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 No problem guys, just adding to the collective knowledge! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riptide Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 I am about to install two axles driver and passenger side on a 2005 GT LTD car. Is there an easy way to check ahead if the car has a retaining pin I'm going to have to deal with? Got axles from raxles.com. Probably spent more than I needed to hope they are good quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 Retaining pin where? I just put back my driver and passenger side axles last night (been working on my trans). And there's no retaining pin anywhere, except these circlips at the end of each axle (trans side). http://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/cpp-all-balls/files/Mule610_CV_boot_116.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 I am about to install two axles driver and passenger side on a 2005 GT LTD car. Is there an easy way to check ahead if the car has a retaining pin I'm going to have to deal with? Got axles from raxles.com. Probably spent more than I needed to hope they are good quality. Just picked up a pair of those as well. There is no retaining clip, you just have to give the axles a good tug. When I did the removal, the passenger axle came out without the inner joint. In that case, you can use a tool to get wedge/leverage between the transmission and the joint housing, and lightly tap it out with a hammer. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 (edited) If you're talking about the roll pin in the inner shaft, the 2005+ BL/BPs don't have these. My 98 BD GT does. You should be able to pull the shafts right out of the trans. Just careful pushing them back in that you lube them well and be careful with your axle seals that you not tear them. Edit: Corrected model info Edited October 18, 2017 by SBT - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riptide Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 Good to hear it is just a c clip most likely. I intend to follow the OP's procedure. With luck it should all come apart and go back together without too much struggle. Seen the job done on a 90 Civic. Never done this myself. I do have a good IR air wrench. Should help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 (edited) Have any of you gotten an odd wobble like noise at 45-50mph after axle rebuilds? I replaced both wheel bearings (timken), rebuilt driver side axle (from a used one since stock was shot), replaced rotors, etc. So did quite a bit of work to blame one specific part, but only axle sticks out at me I'm wondering if I got the boot clamps off center enough to cause odd vibrations. EDIT: Tried another axle, noise still there, must be related to something else I replaced then (thinking brakes/rotors). If you're talking about the roll pin in the inner shaft, the 2005+ BL/BPs don't have these. My 98 BD GT does. You should be able to pull the shafts right out of the trans. Just careful pushing them back in that you lube them well and be careful with your axle seals that you not tear them. Edit: Corrected model info Both of my 05's had the c-clip on the part that goes inside trans. 2006 2.5i Outback I'm working on right now has them too. Edited October 31, 2017 by covertrussian 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riptide Posted October 28, 2017 Share Posted October 28, 2017 (edited) EDIT: Rented a 3 jaw 7 ton puller. It took that to get the axle pushed through the hub. PITA. On the other side I'm going straight to the puller not going to even mess around with trying to smack it through there. Edited October 28, 2017 by Riptide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riptide Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 Having done this over the weekend. I did the driver side in about 1/4 the time it took me on the passenger side. Spent a lot of time on the passenger side goofing around trying to get the axle out of the hub. My car has 94K on it and is a 2005. C-clip axles no retainer pin. Things that help: Air tools 3 jaw puller Someone to step on the brakes Disconnecting the brake line brackets A lift would help too but is obviously not critical. I also did not have to completely disconnect the sway bar endlink like the OP did. I backed it off to give it a little slop is all. Everything was able to move around OK with just the ball joint out of the socket. Having done this twice now I would go straight to the 3 jaw puller. If in a bit of a hurry could probably finish the job on one side in 30-45 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDrive Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Whats the difference between Beck Arley 103-3042 and 103-2976? Rock Auto and a thread here on Legacy GT shows 103-3042 as the correct part and every other place I have checked including auto part stores show 103-2976. I know the cups can be different and I am guessing that may be the difference. My car has the original cups with the indentations. Civilization has brought Evolution to a screeching halt 2007 Legacy GT auto 1989 Turbo Trans AM 1987 Buick Grand National 1983 DeLorean (Buick turbo transplant) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 The Beck/Arnley 103-3042 is the boot, grease and retaining clamp for the 2008-2009 Legacy and 2007-2009 Outback. B/A 103-2976 is the boot, grease and retaining clamp for a 2005-2007 Legacy and a 2005-2006 Outback - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jager Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 I'm sure this was posted before in this thread, but I'm going to post it again as I love changing the inner boots this way. As you don't need to remove the axle or nut. I think I might have even I'm about to replace the passenger side inner boot as my Invidia DP cooked all the grease out of my boot. No rips in the boot and you can see the leaking around the boot end/clamp area. Changing DP as well. Cause f that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 Even the OEM down pipe will dry out the passenger side inner CV boot first. Its what makes a Subaru a Subaru. All aftermarket will do it as well. Dont blame the down pipe, its the nature of the beast. Even happens on the NA cars as the cat is closest to the passenger side inner boot (replaced one today on an 09 Legacy 2.5i). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
web94 Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 (edited) Anyone recommend a type of grease to put on the axle teeth when replacing? Is it necessary? Edited January 19, 2018 by web94 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jager Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 Even the OEM down pipe will dry out the passenger side inner CV boot first. Its what makes a Subaru a Subaru. All aftermarket will do it as well. Dont blame the down pipe, its the nature of the beast. Even happens on the NA cars as the cat is closest to the passenger side inner boot (replaced one today on an 09 Legacy 2.5i). I must not have explained it correctly. I have had 2 turbo Subarus and have replaced many a pass side boot. All with OEM DP. So I know exactly what you are talking about. This is different. Boot isn't ripped or torn. It isn't even dry. It is a fairly new boot as well. The only place that the grease is coming out is the end of the boot where it clamps. It didn't do this just before when the OEM DP was on. First spirited drive with the new DP and it was coming out the end. To be clear, I'm not saying all Invidia DPs do this. I got mine used and I'm pretty sure the cat is dead. Which causes the cat to be hotter. Since on the invidia design (and some others) the cat is like an inch from the boot, it will cook the grease and liquefy it and it leaks out around the clamp. At least this is what I have read online (other folks with this issue) and it explains my experience. BTW love your tuning threads, they are helping me a lot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 The clamps come loose all the time. Small clamp on the axle shaft side to be specific. They tend to leak grease and then sling it on the down pipe, up pipe, steering rack, etc. This too is nothing new to a Subaru. The grease is always diarrhea like upon disassembly. NA, turbo all of them. The cat should only be hotter is it was obstructing flow. If it was "blown out" rather than "wadded up" it should not be an issue. "Wadded up" will cause an obstruction which in turn will cause exhaust gas temp to rise. But it will also diminish your power and possibly limit your ability to climb in RPM. Usually a quick visual is all you need. Hit the pipe with a rubber mallet. If it does not rattle, the cat is at least "tight" in the pipe. Not saying Invidia is infallible. Just hate to see someone trash a perfectly good part due to a mis-diagnosis. I am not there to see for myself, so your judgement will be the best and the deciding factor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuckins Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 For what it's worth, I just replaced mine with a whole axle from TRQ, manufacture # AM-28543735. Got it on ebay for $50.00 with a 10 year warranty. 200 miles in and no noise or complaints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rapture Posted November 23, 2018 Share Posted November 23, 2018 Ok so i finally have an issue w my autozone axle Driver sd outer boot is ripped , starting to leak grease Now , should i swap a new one, or just replace that outer boot Ah decisions .... Side note- i noticed that auto zone carrys a “ heavy duty” option PN-SB 8047HD With 27 outer spline 25 inner? That cant be right , right? Ours are 25/25 to my recolection , no? Anybody know whats up here?? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rapture Posted November 23, 2018 Share Posted November 23, 2018 Whoops i meant rock auto” Not auto zone lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 Was gonna say just bring it back to vatozone for a free replacement. They have a lifetime warranty. If they ask, tell them its not just a torn boot, but that it "clicks" in turns too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rapture Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 U aint lyin sprankles lolol Vatozone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 Its not a bad thing, it just is. I call em like I see em. PC or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 The clamps come loose all the time. Small clamp on the axle shaft side to be specific. They tend to leak grease and then sling it on the down pipe, up pipe, steering rack, etc. This too is nothing new to a Subaru. This is exactly what I saw on my LGT passenger side boot small clamp at 45,000 miles in 2013. And now in 2019 I am seeing a grease leak on the driver side boot small clamp, at 65,000 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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