pyromarty Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 (edited) T-belt replacement on a 05 LGT. Ok here's a little how to on the timing belt replacement incase anyone is thinking about taking it on. here we are at the start of the job. if there's anything i've missed or put that is incorrect please let me know. ( I am not responsible for anything that you do to your car) here are the tools you will need. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/tools.jpg here's the start of the job. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/startofjob.jpg Next remove the "ram air scoop" and engine cover. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/removecovers.jpg Now pinch off the upper Radiator hose, remove and take out your fans. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0087.jpg Now with the fans out of the way, you can take off the ACC drives. Power steering and A/C belt with the tensioner bracket. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0088.jpg If you have the subaru harmonic balancer remover you can use it, if not a chain wrench will work just fine. you'll have to really put the torque to this bolt. ( reinstall with a dab of oil on threads) http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0090.jpg ok, now remove the timing belt covers. some bolts are hiding. after covers are removed, put the harmonic balancer back on the crank so you can rotate the engine. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0093.jpg rotate the engine clockwise until the crank, and cam marks are at the 12-0-clock position. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0095.jpg here's the cam up at the 12o-clock positon.the upper cam lines up with marks on the plastic covers. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0094.jpg the upper cams line up with the cover, and the lower cams line up with the 6 o-clock marks of the upper cam. the 6 o-clock marks look like II and the 12 o-clock marks of the lower cam are the same II marks. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0096.jpg now that it's lined up you can remove the tensioner and put in a vertical press. if you don't have one, use a pry bar and compress the auto tensioner. Taking more than 3 minutes to compress! after compressing install the "Grenade Pin" or a 2 mm (0.08 in) (nominal) dia. hex wrench http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0098.jpg now you can remove the auto tensioner. tensioner removed you can remove belt. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0102.jpg while your here, my as well do the water pump. when you install the new belt the arrows go to the right. start at the crank, (------ line is the start at the crank mark.) put the belt on from the crank pully twards the right, over the upper cam and down around the lower. (THESE ARE VERY HARD TO KEEP IN POSITION ROTATE UPPER-CLOCKWISE. LOWER COUNTER CLOCKWISE AND ONE AT A TIME!!) and here are the pics of the 3 and 6 o-clock timing positions. you need a mirror to verify the correct position of them http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0106.jpg marks of the 3 o-clock position verify with mirror. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0108.jpg 6 o-clock marks http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0109.jpg after you've done this reinstall the auto tensioner, pull the "grenade pin" and push the tensioner down with your hand. ( it will auto tension ) fire it up, if it sounds normal then your ready to put it back together. hope this helps anyone who has thought about doing this. Edited February 26, 2009 by pyromarty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryandigi Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 nice...thought it was much more difficult but that did not seem too bad What does a dealership/.good mechanic charge for this? Oh and WELCOME. Awesome first post by the way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyromarty Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 if i remember, dealer wants 4 hrs at 80pr hr plus 175 for the belt. i do them for 150 labor you buy part. i can get belt for 125. i don't recomend autozone belts. they are wrong by half a tooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Don't use prybar on the tensioner if you want to reuse it!!! Subaru has very specific procedure about comporessing it extremely slowly and in particular position. However, it's a good idea to replace the tensioner whenever belt is replaced. Everyone please always check vacation pix before blindly following forum "how tos". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyromarty Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 forgot about the compress slowly part. you can't press it closed in a horizontal position, only virticaly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryandigi Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Don't use prybar on the tensioner if you want to reuse it!!! Subaru has very specific procedure about comporessing it extremely slowly and in particular position. However, it's a good idea to replace the tensioner whenever belt is replaced. Everyone please always check vacation pix before blindly following forum "how tos". what are these vacation pix you speak of Unclemat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 ^ just http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/misc/find.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyromarty Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 Do not use a lateral type vise. • Push the adjuster rod vertically. • Press-in the push adjuster rod gradually taking more than three minutes. • Do not allow press pressure to exceed 9,807 N (1,000 kgf, 2,205 lb). • Press the adjuster rod as far as the end surface of the cylinder. Do not press the adjuster rod into cylinder. Doing so may damage the cylinder. • Do not release the press pressure until stopper pin is completely inserted. as from the book. most people won't have a vertical hydraulic press. so just compress in 3 or more minutes. (update post) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper8406 Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 last time i checked...vacation pix didnt work anymore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowGT Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 The factory manual does not specify a certain mileage of when to replace the timing belt. It only states to check it at certain mileages. So do we only replace it if it looks worn out, or what is the accepted mileage for changing it out (on the 2.5 turbo)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derffred Posted March 14, 2009 Share Posted March 14, 2009 Bump, I was just going to replace it at my next 30K Interval.. which is 90K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 The factory manual does not specify a certain mileage of when to replace the timing belt. It only states to check it at certain mileages. So do we only replace it if it looks worn out, or what is the accepted mileage for changing it out (on the 2.5 turbo)? At 105000 miles service, they say to replace it. check out link, https://my.subaru.com/common/popup/index.jsp?popID=/my/maintenance/maintenanceDetail.jsp%3Fmileage%3D105000%26serviceName%3D105000+miles+/+105+month+service&targetID=undefined https://my.subaru.com/my/maintenance/maintenance.jsp Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Here's my thread from last Sept. check post #26 for photo's. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94193 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Thx guys for putting this up. Just did mines today. Only thing to add is make sure you get a long enough chain wrench and use a vise grip between the sprockets to keep the cams in place before and after timing belt removal. I could have saved 2 hours... "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 BTW....after 106K miles the belt looked fine. My only concern was the water pump. The area around it was a little damp with antifreeze before removal. "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schwinn Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 In my previous car (Mazda MX6), it was a similar setup with a hydraulic tensioner. In that car, the tensioner was known to fail soon after the first belt replacement, so it was recommended to replace it while in there. Does this tensioner have similar concerns? Granted, many of us haven't gotten that far in mileage yet, but I wonder if it just makes sense to replace it anyway, while you're in there (like the water pump). Of course, this procedure seems far easier than the Mazda's (due to a transverse motor and FWD)... so it may not be too bad to get back in there if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Forgive my intrusion upon this thread, my question is specifically related to the belt itself. It is my understanding that the STi belt is pretty top notch. Is this a kevlar belt? Since this is such a vital part of the motor and I plan on keeping the car for a long time, I want to get a damn good replacement belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 In my previous car (Mazda MX6), it was a similar setup with a hydraulic tensioner. In that car, the tensioner was known to fail soon after the first belt replacement, so it was recommended to replace it while in there. Does this tensioner have similar concerns? Granted, many of us haven't gotten that far in mileage yet, but I wonder if it just makes sense to replace it anyway, while you're in there (like the water pump). Of course, this procedure seems far easier than the Mazda's (due to a transverse motor and FWD)... so it may not be too bad to get back in there if needed. You have to remove the auto tensioner in the process. Most people will not have the proper tool to compress it, therefore just replace it and be done. "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 (edited) Forgive my intrusion upon this thread, my question is specifically related to the belt itself. It is my understanding that the STi belt is pretty top notch. Is this a kevlar belt? Since this is such a vital part of the motor and I plan on keeping the car for a long time, I want to get a damn good replacement belt. Contact Fred Beans Suby. I heard more than once ppl mention that the STI and our belt carries the same part number. Confirmed....same part number.. Edited September 15, 2009 by Ridgeracer "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Do you think it's worth the money to buy any of the upgraded belts avaliable... to reduce the interval between changes and handle the higher power levels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Not worth it in IMOH....Most of the 106K on my car has been spent running above stock power levels. The original belt was a little shiny on the smooth side but all the teeth where intact and in excellent condition. And yes my car does see a couple of pulls every now and then to 6Krpms. "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Great! I like stock parts that can take the beating.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black318i Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Anyone ever use this. It only $3 more than OEM. http://www.fredbeansparts.com/servlet/the-1009/Gates-Racing-Subaru-Legacy/Detail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 I do. Gates is quality stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_J Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I always heard 100K is an average benchmark for timing belt replacement for all cars that use them. Another point - just because the belt "looks fine" doesn't necessarily mean it's okay to delay or skip replacement. Because after time they start to weaken and if the belt breaks while driving...you'll be out of out luck. I plan on waiting to 90 - 100K and using the Gates belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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