OfftheLineGT05 Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 I have read all of the TOB posts and have come to the conclusion that my TOB is starting to go. It started out as a short squeel on cold mornings but today I noticed that pushing in the clutch gets rid of the noise but now I hear a hissing sound with the pedal fully depressed. It changes pitch if i rev up the engine, it really isn't a grinding noise it sounds more like a white noise. I am at 60,592 today so Warranty is not an option anymore. I wondered if anybody has attempted changing the clutch plate/TOB/flywheel at home or is it just too hard? Also what have people been paying to have the dealer do it (labor hours/parts/total). Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rony Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 You can do it at home with an engine lift (to move the engine) or jacks stands and a jack. But, this is not a project that you attempt if you have never done it before. If you can find someone that has done it before ( more than once ), then you can probably do it at you house. But, if you can't, then I would suggest that you don't attempt it. Personally, I wouldn't do it unless I had the help of at least one other person that was mechanically inclined. Even then, I would have issue with doing it in case something went wrong. My Car vBGarage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OfftheLineGT05 Posted January 16, 2009 Author Share Posted January 16, 2009 Thanks for replying. Do you have to move the engine? I have been reading a few different posts and the instructions i found said that it is easier to slide the transmission back and just have a support for the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alohajeff Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 I changed my TOB (flywheel and clutch too) in my driveway at home over the course of a few days. Had it not been raining or snowing it would've been a much easier project. The only specialized tools necessary were the Torx Plus for the flywheel bolts and the big honkin' Torx for the diff drain plug. The transmission jack I borrowed wasn't a good fit with the Subaru trans so I just used a simple floor jack. The only part that required a second set of hands was when I had to get the trans back into alignment with the motor. Other than that I'd say it's a doable job for one person. I'm spending the $1000 saved by doing it myself on a trip to Cabo instead. Having done the R&R myself I can tell you exactly what is and what isn't necessary. I had never replaced a clutch in a Subaru before but if a mechanic at a stealership can do it I didn't see any reason why I shouldn't try. The motor does not need to be supported much as it's still resting on the motor mounts. It will pivot rearward once the transmission is disconnected but that's not a big issue. Subaru has a specific tool that utilizes the upper torque mount to stabilize and locate the motor. I used no such tool but it could have eliminated the need for that second set of hands when the trans was being mated back up to the motor. I've got a ton of pictures taken during the R&R but in all honesty it's not that tough a project, it's just time consuming and it does require two somewhat specialized and easily purchased TORX bits. A good set of pry bars (big ones) are also handy when it's time to free the transmission from the back of the motor. Parts total = $500 bucks. Thanks to Unclemat I picked up a new flywheel and clutch for CHEAP! I bought a TOB at Subaru for $40 bucks and used basic Valvoline gear oil in the diff. It shifts like new and should go another 60K before I have to do it all over again. Aloha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OfftheLineGT05 Posted January 16, 2009 Author Share Posted January 16, 2009 Hey thanks for the feedback. I think I might try an tackle it this weekend. It's time to change the trans oil anyhow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paparoo Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 You should read my post on 1/9 titled LGT clutch release bearing before you start. Paparoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 ..............A good set of pry bars (big ones) are also handy when it's time to free the transmission from the back of the motor................ Isn't this the toughest part of the job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevkel33leg05 Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 i would say its the toughest part of the job besides lifting the transmission back up. Also when freeing the transmission from the engine becarful when prying against that soft aluminum metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OfftheLineGT05 Posted January 19, 2009 Author Share Posted January 19, 2009 Started working today and the initial removal of stuff was pretty easy (TMIC, starter, clutch cylinder etc). The exhaust from the turbo back took a little more time because of all the heat shield screws (like 12 of them all over the place) and there were a few screws to take off to get the exhaust pipe off. The under car stuff like the driveshaft and shift linkage was easy with the exhaust out of the way. The TOUGH part which took 2 hours of shaking, banging, pulling, and gentle prying was the transmission. It was really hard to seperate from the engine but I got it. The TOB was fried big time and probably would have gone in the next week (made a ton of noise spinning with my finger). Clutch was holding up ok (probably good for another 20K)but I am going to replace it and the pressure plate. The flywheel looks and feels good. That's where I left it tonight since it got too dark and cold and I am gonna hit it again early in the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Nice progress Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevkel33leg05 Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 i sware thoes dowels hold the transmission in to good:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OfftheLineGT05 Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 Well day two was terrible. I spent all morning trying to find the clutch alignment tool(dealer did not sell it) and after trying to universal tools I ended up buying a kit from the auto store with the tool included only to return the kit unused (it was the wrong kit so i couldnt use it anyway). Got the clutch installed and the tranny bolted back up, driveshaft in, starter, and the exhaust heat shielding then I ran out of daylight. I hope to finish tomorrow if i can get a new front right seal for the fron halfshaft. There was a small retaining spring that holds the seal around the shaft that popped out of the grove and I wasn't able to put it back in. Anyone know how hard it is the swap out the seal from the side of the trans case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevkel33leg05 Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 If you remove the threaded adjuster you will be able to get the retaining spring back in. All that is behind that is a bearing race for your front diff. But this is what sets your backlash so before you remove it mark it with white paint and literally count how many times you turn it out. Right befor you take it out mark it again so you know where to start when you go back to put it in. Just dont foget which mark is which. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevkel33leg05 Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Heres that picture. Whats circled in red is the threaded adjuster. Only one bolt to it. http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp60/kevkel50/spring.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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