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Stage 1....my car stalled out...


croll326

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I just went to stage one with the AP v1 and a cobb 93 octane map. When I was driving and coming to a stop i pressed the clutch and as revs came down they went to about 500 RPMs then dropped even more until the car stalled. This only happened once on a 40 minute drive in traffic but i was worried. Was the ECU still learning the new flash or something? thanks.
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For me it took a couple days until my car ran as smooth as it did before. It took some extra cranks to start the car the first time and it almost died on me a few times as well but now a couple weeks later there is no sign of those initial issues.
^ n00bs below this line
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my stage 1 93 cobb map does this to me almost every day, but has never shut off. I have a 5EAT tho.The car will start and move fine, but the 1st time I come to a stop the engine rpms fall very low and the car nearly stalls.

 

I think this is an issue with engine load or some sort of timing thing.. I'm not sure, I havent looked into it too heavy because my car hasnt actually shut off.

"The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato
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  • 2 months later...
my stage 1 93 cobb map does this to me almost every day, but has never shut off. I have a 5EAT tho.The car will start and move fine, but the 1st time I come to a stop the engine rpms fall very low and the car nearly stalls.

 

I think this is an issue with engine load or some sort of timing thing.. I'm not sure, I havent looked into it too heavy because my car hasnt actually shut off.

 

sorry, bringing this thread back to life because I remember seeing the title and now it's happening to me. I've had the same problem as the above user since I flashed my e-tune stage 1 map tuned for my AEM CAI. shortly after turning the car on when i come to a stop the RPMs dip really low and it feels like its going to stall but doesnt, except yesterday the car stalled out completely, and i have a 5EAT .... I posted this in another thread:

 

I got out of work at 6:30am (i work overnight) and turn my car on and start scraping the frost off my windows while it idles. I get in the car and start to go, little hesitation but it moves. I then stop at the exit from work and it feels like its gonna die but comes back. i let off the brake and roll forward a little bit and hit the brake quick again and the car shutters, and then i do the same thing and it shutters and stalls out (automatic transmission). i start it back up and get on my way, problem doesnt really come back once i get moving.

 

so i've noticed this happening only when:

 

I turn the car on while its very cold outside and let it idle for some period of time. i had the rear defroster, the seat heater, and the blower running to defog my windshield, though I dont know if any of these have an effect on the problem. i think it may just be from letting it idle?

 

I noticed when looking at AFRs on my AP some time ago, that when i do a quick stop-go-and-stop the AFR will jump to 20ish but only for a quick moment....is this too lean for the car to keep running? i thought my problem was gone, but I guess I was just doing the right steps to avoid it.

 

anyone have any thoughts?

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I cant really comment as to a solution but I do have this happen to me more often as you described when the car sits for a long time and/or its very hot/cold outside. Any temperature extreme really. It has never actually shut off on me however. :crossfingers:

 

Do you know what version of AP you're running and what version of the map? I have the older AP and am running a stage 1 91 right now (used to be 93 until the gas shortage) I cant tell you the version off hand, but its the one that came with it.. my pc doesn't have a serial port so I cant update it and am too cheap to buy a converter. :lol:

"The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato
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I've had a little bogging since flashing Cobb 93 Stg. 1 on my 5EAT. Never stalls, but the RPMS drop and I feel a little "wiggle" before they jump right back up.

 

Seems to happen to me most when I'm hard on the brakes after being ON the throttle.

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An aftermarket vent to atmosphere BOV will cause the same issue..

 

I never had a problem of stalling out with my stage 1 map or stage 2 map while running the stock BOV.

 

ive never had a stalling problem with stage 1 or stage 2 stalling with 100% atm vent

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Seems to happen to me most when I'm hard on the brakes after being ON the throttle.

 

+1. I work in a busy area so sometimes I have to really get on it to get into traffic. Unless I want to read a book at the intersection.

 

When I come to a stop at the redlight down the road if its really cold or really hot its almost guaranteed to do this.

 

this was stage 1 93. I have not observed the behavior since I switched to stage 1 91.

"The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato
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ive never had a stalling problem with stage 1 or stage 2 stalling with 100% atm vent

 

I guess I should have wrote can cause a stalling issue.

 

My friend's STI had stalling issues while running a VTA BOV and he was stock. I had stalling issues when I ran my FMIC with VTA, once I recirculated it, it ran perfect.

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/subscribed

 

so i installed the 93 stg 1 map a week ago. besides having to crank it a little on the first start up, car has run fine. it did almost stall when i pulling into a 7-11 on the first day, but that was it.

 

anyway, driving this morning, i was about a mile away from my apt, engine still cold, and then stopped to make a left turn, car died. had the radio on and the fan for the defrost. started right up and didn't have any trouble the rest of the way. although i did turn off the fan and radio....i have a 5EAT.

 

i've been driving everyday since the flash, so i'm not sure wtf is up. guess it's still learning or what not. i hardly ever put it in sport mode. ughhhh.

 

:spin:

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I'm wondering if this is a flaw in cobb's code? Is everyone here running cobb's maps?

 

I am running the stage 1 92 now and it actually did the stutter to me for the 1st time since flashing away from 93 yesterday afternoon when coming to a stop when the car was cold.

"The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato
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i'm running an e-tune tuned for my AEM CAI

 

this problem started for me after i installed the CAI and tune on the same day. it's not all the time, but enough to make me think its not just a fluke. but the temperatures dropped significantly right after the install so I don't know if that is into play at all for this. did it do it for the rest of you in warm weather as well?

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i'm running cobb maps. if this problem persists, maybe i'll try a flash to 91 and see what happens.

 

could be the weather. although, there were a few days when it was like 15F out this past week in MA and the car ran fine.

 

yesterday it was rainy and 60F out...this morning it was rainy and 37F according to my dash, so maybe the big drop in temp caused the problem. it's a possibility, but with the *seemingly* high rate of incidence of this occurring to people @ stage 1 or 2, i'm skeptical.

 

:spin:

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My Legacy GT 5EAT wagon with Stage 1 ACN has stalled on me a few times as well in the cold weather after coming to a stop at a redlight after exiting the highway. I had the seat heaters, fan on full blast and the rear defog going - all of which put quite a strain on the electrical system. It seemed like the engine just couldn't take the load and sputtered out. Started up again with no problems. It seems like the idle speed is just a tad too low on this map. Has anyone tried contacting Cobb to see if there is anything that can be done? :confused:
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I keep hoping if this thread has enough people reporting this problem that cobbtuning will see it and comment. I'm glad its not just me. I believed it was just me (I think I have posted about it before but...) so I've never contacted cobb about it. Mine has never actually shut off tho so it hasn't been a huge deal for me just an inconveniance.
"The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato
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just had another stall. went to grab some bfast at mc'ds, which is less than a mile from my apt. cleared off the slush on the car. had the rear defrost on, seat warmer, headlights, foglights, and front defrost on full blast. pulled into the drivethru...car started sputter...and eventually gave out. restarted...turned off fan and seat warmer...almost quit 2 more times. finally got my damn breakfast. i dunno. it was cold yesterday and it's cold today. just too much strain on the electrical? :iam: what a PITA.
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could be that. just took the car out now to see if it would happen again. had defrost on full blast, rear defrost on, seat warmers, windshield wiper heater, radio on. ran perfectly fine. wtf. let the car run at idle for a little to see if anything -- nada.

 

i'm too busy right now to fully figure out what's up, but plan on getting to the bottom of this over the holidays (work/school break!).

 

i'll try a reflash (running 93 stg 1 now), flash to 91 stg 1, flash back to stock. we'll see. i'll get the plugs replaced soon too if i can't figure anything out by then. i'm due for my 60k service soon anyway.

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Two comments:

 

Several people in this thread have noted that starting the car after a reflash took some doing. This is because the ECU has to reboot itself, and it takes a few seconds. If you turn on the key but don't start the car just after the reflash -- give it five seconds or so -- the reboot will happen and then it will start right up without a lot of cranking. This has nothing to do with the other issue...

 

...the stalling on idle. Don't I remember seeing somewhere that the AP provides a way to adjust the idle RPMs? Would tweaking them up a bit solve these problems? HPH

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i didn't have too much trouble starting up the car after i first flashed the cobb map. i mean, if the car starts up instantly normally, the car took an extra 1 second to start up after the flash. no biggie in my book. yes, i have heard some people cranking it for quite awhile to get their car to start. *shrug*

 

you may be correct re: comment 2. i *know* that you can adjust idle rpms for the *launch maps*. you do the thing with the rear defrost and cruise control lever. i'm not sure whether you can adjust idle rpms in the same manner but for normal use.

 

i'll try to work on this over the holiday break. things will actually slow down for me so i'll have some time to figure it out. it's annoying and reminds me of my first car ('87 toyota camry) that i put 280k miles on it before it threw a rod. anyway, that car would always studder/stall at idle when it was raining. noone could figure out why. it would be fine in snow or even sleet. :iam:

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..the stalling on idle. Don't I remember seeing somewhere that the AP provides a way to adjust the idle RPMs? Would tweaking them up a bit solve these problems? HPH

 

Sounds like the exact same issue I've had. I haven't stalled, but have come very close. The car will bog down for a half sec and the rpms drop. Doesn't happen all the time and I haven't been able to pin it down. I'm Cobb stg 1 93. Cobb just released new maps addressing another issue (1.18) and new firmware (1.3.0.0-8108). Browsing through my AP menu I see -> Tune ->adjustments->

"Adjust idle", Idle rpm can be adjussted +/-300 rpm. Use to smooth idle when parts disrupt idle performance."

 

I literally just looked into this and downloaded the maps. Jumped in here to see if it was a known thing...find this thread. :lol: This weekend I plan to flash the new 1.18 map. I was considering upping the rpms too. Not sure. Can't imagine having an idle 300 rpms higher could harm anything...aside of gas mileage of course...?? Currently at tempurature I will idle around 200-250. Seems awful low to me. I dunno... :confused:

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oooo you're from ro-cha-cha. i lived there for 4 years. too bad i didn't have the LGT back then, i would have enjoyed it more. we did get some awesome lake effect while i was there.

 

anyway, i'll try flashing the 1.18 maps. yeah i'll idle down to ~300 after the car is warm.

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