vkchu Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 interesting. well, i flashed to 1.18 and it's been running fine for the past week. although, i haven't tried my super-duper test of turning everything on (both seat warmers, windshield deicer, front defrost w/AC, rear defrost, radio). gmoe, pls get me a garbage plate and fedex it to boston the a/c bumps up the revs-cheater! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmoe Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 interesting. well, i flashed to 1.18 and it's been running fine for the past week. although, i haven't tried my super-duper test of turning everything on (both seat warmers, windshield deicer, front defrost w/AC, rear defrost, radio). gmoe, pls get me a garbage plate and fedex it to boston Cool.. I'll be going to 1.18 this weekend very likely. One garbage plate coming right up! That'll be $99.95 plus tax. Inflation... you know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjk77 Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 the a/c bumps up the revs-cheater! thats not cheating! i'll do whatever it takes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjk77 Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 Cool.. I'll be going to 1.18 this weekend very likely. One garbage plate coming right up! That'll be $99.95 plus tax. Inflation... you know? geez. it's true i left rochester back in 2004, but man. it's a little steep for a plate of grease. how about $19.95 + tax? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmoe Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 Hey....you wanna eat..you gotta pay. I know how addicted plate junkies can be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 i noticed a bunch of people saying that their car took longer to start the first time after a flash. that's normal. it's your ECU rebooting. if you don't want to have to keep cranking, you can turn the key to the on position (dashboard on) and wait about 5-10 seconds. THEN crank and it should start right up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 so today I flashed my new map from my tuner, it was only a safety update in the map, the same change listed above about Cobb's 1.18 maps, but tuned for my car. after the flash, shut the car off, put key to ON position, waited about 15secs for the ECU to reboot, it started right up. I let it idle for i dunno 5min or something? from cold to a little past half way warmed up (meaning a little past the quarter dash on the temp gauge, in between that in the optimal middle position). it is 19*F out, car started out idling at almost 2k RPM because it is so cold, I waited until it was below 1k RPM to drive it. took it for a short drive and it seems like the hesitation has disappeared so far. the car still needs to learn and stuff so we'll see how it goes. it didn't show up instantly last time so I'm gonna give it a few days and see if things change. if it comes back, the next step will be bumping the RPMs.....to be continued.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjk77 Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 yeah let me know what happens, snow05. the past few cold mornings, the car starts out idling at ~1.5k RPM. i usually let it just sit for a minute or two and then drive off. until it gets to that 1/4 mark, i keep it under 3k RPMS. a few times, after the engine temp has reached the 1/2 mark, i've retried my uber test: turning on everything possible in the car. both heated seats, the windshield wiper deicer, front defrost w/AC, rear defrost, fan on max, radio, headlights, foglights, etc. the car bogged down twice (that i can remember), after pulling this manuever since my reflash to 1.18. did not die completely though. i'll try it again today after i leave work and will bump up 300 rpms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vkchu Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 yeah let me know what happens, snow05. the past few cold mornings, the car starts out idling at ~1.5k RPM. i usually let it just sit for a minute or two and then drive off. until it gets to that 1/4 mark, i keep it under 3k RPMS. a few times, after the engine temp has reached the 1/2 mark, i've retried my uber test: turning on everything possible in the car. both heated seats, the windshield wiper deicer, front defrost w/AC, rear defrost, fan on max, radio, headlights, foglights, etc. the car bogged down twice (that i can remember), after pulling this manuever since my reflash to 1.18. did not die completely though. i'll try it again today after i leave work and will bump up 300 rpms. 300rpm seems like a lot-what does your car normally idle at after warmed up? i bumped mine up 50 and it worked out okay. id say 100 is prob more than enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjk77 Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 300rpm seems like a lot-what does your car normally idle at after warmed up? i bumped mine up 50 and it worked out okay. id say 100 is prob more than enough. i *thought* i saw something on the AP that allows you to bump up by 300 rpm increments. guess i was wrong. lol. anyway, normally idles, after being fully warmed up, at around 300-400 rpms. seems kinda low to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vkchu Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 i *thought* i saw something on the AP that allows you to bump up by 300 rpm increments. guess i was wrong. lol. anyway, normally idles, after being fully warmed up, at around 300-400 rpms. seems kinda low to me. it allows a max of 300rpm adjustment, in increments of 25 i think. you can get some pretty precise fine tuning. your car idles at 300-400? that cant be-it would be sounding like a funny car. use the ap to check the idle revs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjk77 Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 it allows a max of 300rpm adjustment, in increments of 25 i think. you can get some pretty precise fine tuning. your car idles at 300-400? that cant be-it would be sounding like a funny car. use the ap to check the idle revs. ah, cool. obviously i have never tried the idle adjustment (yet), but i just remember seeing the 300 rpm thing while scrollign through the options once. yeah wth do i know. i'll let the ap tell me whats going on and will repost my results! FTL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOVEMYSUBE Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 so you guys raise the rpm while the engine is running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschmelcke Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 the engine doesnt need to be running you just need to update and plug in the accessport to make the adjustment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOVEMYSUBE Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Thanks sschmelcke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjk77 Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 interesting. well, i flashed to 1.18 and it's been running fine for the past week. although, i haven't tried my super-duper test of turning everything on (both seat warmers, windshield deicer, front defrost w/AC, rear defrost, radio). gmoe, pls get me a garbage plate and fedex it to boston i forgot to post this pic when i was updating (aka "preforming") my AP. noobs at cobb need to learn how to spell. http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/rr133/mrjk77/misc%20pics/DSCF0881.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerboa113 Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 its pre forming it.. it wasn't formed before. you and your fancy AP screen. Back in my day APs were back lit calculator style LCD.. AND WE LIKED IT! and we had serial cables... IN THE SNOW! "The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjk77 Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 lmao. back in MY day there was no such things called APs. or CARS! you had to WALK. in the snow. UPHILL. both ways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 well, I had thought I kicked this problem but I don't think I have. I had (have) a CEL for a stupid wheel speed sensor (http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102887) which results in my radiator fans to be constantly running and the car is in semi-limp mode, doesnt allow me to rev higher than like 4200RPM. I reflashed while I still had this problem, and just got it fixed last friday (sort of). The CEL was now gone over the weekend and I was able to get on the engine a little more. While the car had the CEL going with the fans running, I never got any sort of stall out or drop in RPM. Yesterday, however, the low RPM shudder/nearly stall out came back. Though it could have also been due to the lower temps (around 10-20*F, versus 30-40*F for the week with the CEL). This time it was not just happening when the car was cold, it was happening on a fully warmed up engine as well. When the engine starts to sputter, the headlights dimmed severely. It happened when I had no electronics running, and also when I had all the electronics running. The CEL has come back as of last night, so I'll see if the sputter happens while the CEL (and accompanying fans) is still on. After I get that fixed/cleared again, I'll give it a couple days to see if the sputter comes back without the CEL/fans. If it does I think my next step is to bump the RPMs. Damnit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPjeep2002 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Seems like the 05-06 guys are having this problem. But how about us 08/09 guys? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vkchu Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Seems like the 05-06 guys are having this problem. But how about us 08/09 guys? seems to be limited only to cold starts in colder temps, with a bunch of accessories going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 seems to be limited only to cold starts in colder temps, with a bunch of accessories going. I've had it happen in a number of different combinations. Cold start, cold weather; cold start, semi warm weather; after the car is fully warmed up; with accessories and without accessories. From what I can tell, it is only happening on the 5EAT and none of the MT cars. At least none of the MT cars have spoken up here. And everyone on here that has said that happened seems to have an 05 or 06. I'm thinking that re-flashing while I had the CEL and radiator fans running may have messed up the learning? I don't know. I think I'm going to reset the ECU after I finally get that CEL and problem associated with it fixed. I just feel like it shouldn't be necessary to raise the idle RPMs. That doesn't seem right, though I guess it can't hurt the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 I have an 07 5MT and have this problem. Mine is issolated to idle problem only happening from when the blue SI drive light turns off to when the car reaches operating temperature. When it's cold, it's fine. When it's fully warmed up it's fine. I had this problem with the stock map and thought maybe there was a bug in it so I loaded my stage one Cobb OTS map and the problem remained. This morning I raised the idle RPM by 75 RPM and the problem seems to have dissapeared. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 Well, the problem got worse. It got really cold here last week(-23 degrees F) and the car actually died on me and tripped a lean bank one code as well as misfire on cylinders 1, 2, and 3. I cleaned the MAF and the problem remains. I also checked for any vacuum leaks and found none. I'm back with the stock map waiting until next weekend so the dealer can diagnose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KoolAidMan26 Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 Don't mean to start up a new thread but just putting in my solution I have discovered after experiencing stalling with temps <40 outside. I had a loose Vaccuum line in the front. It was seated but you could easily slide it off (My tuner told me about this common problem) I put a zip tie around it and raised the RPM 125 and the car hasn't even stuttered. It has currently been snowing and in the 25-38 degree range outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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