Ari_OutbackWagon Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 did you put the conditioner in and then wait to start the car? Filled with coolant, then added conditioner to the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 then what Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangendsley Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 I really think that conditioner is a joke. Never used it and never had any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Sorry to hear that Ari... Question. Has this always been serviced with Subaru Coolant and the Conditioner or is the maintenance record unknown? I have heard of issues with other coolants causing metal leaching from the alloy block and radiator, with most of the resulting contamination plugging-up the radiator. So unless you know for certain about the service record, it may very well not be the fault of the conditioner at all, but rather the previous coolant as a causal factor. I never change coolant without it, and have never have issues with my radiator. But again, that's always been with Subaru Coolant, distilled water and the Subaru Conditioner - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ari_OutbackWagon Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 No luck with corporate. "We've been using it for years and never had any issues" Today I got some very bad news. I pulled it out of the service at the dealer and took it to an indy. He installed a new radiator and started it up, EXHAUST IN THE COOLANT!!! How did the dealer not just smell the coolant in the first place? Seems like that would be one of the first things to check. Questions is, did I blow the HG because of the overheating, or did I get sold a bad engine. I suspect I'll never know. Now I'm out $2k for the engine and 20 hours it took me to install it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 How many miles on the engine? Overheating on an older, poorly serviced engine will cause the HGs to blow. Hopefully your indy new how to properly burp the Subaru engine or it could have hotspotted on you and blown the HGs too. New HGs and you should be good to go. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ari_OutbackWagon Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Yeah, the indy (Ventura Radiator) is awesome, very professional long time small shop in town. I'm not sure I want to tackle the gasket job, how much does an independent shop usually charge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 If you provide the gasket kit, then you're looking at $300.00 per side, $500.00 - $750.00 for both. Do a leakdown before you pull the heads to make sure you need it. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsmoove Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Not that it really matters since we're not supposed to use it anyway, but I thought the whole point of using that water wetter stuff was for if you were just using straight water without any anti-freeze. Like it's just for anti-corrosion, with the better cooling ability of just water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainobvious Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 I was just going to flush my radiator this weekend and Zyrex makes a japanese brand antifreeze for cars. My Autoparts store guy says it will work just fine and no problems, Question then becomes is it safe or should i just get the SOA coolant at the dealer, i do get it at cost and no tax so either way i just to make sure the car is up to date on maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangendsley Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 just get prestone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainobvious Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Thats what i was thinking as well. Do i need to get that additive from Subaru? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangendsley Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 I did not get it and it has been fine. I also went with the Koyo rad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 .................................. To remove to engine undercover (you need a 12mm socket and a flat-head screwdriver). There are 3 bolts and 4 pop-it's you have to remove. Two pop-its are in the front wheelwells (one on each side). You can reach these when you're under the car looking upwards (watch out for dirt/sand and other crap falling). There are two more at the front of the car connecting the undercover to the bumper (pretty easy to see)....................................... Go back under the car, put the drain plug back in. Grab a funnel and start pouring in new coolant. I started from the location of the radiator cap and topped it off (You'll be easily able to pour in 1-1.25 gallons of new coolant before you want to slow down and watch it to make sure it doesn't overflow and spill out.) Put the radiator cap back on. Then I went to the radiator filler tank and topped that off as well. After that's all done, you want to "burp" the radiator. I followed the instructions in the modified "11. Engine Coolant Replacement" manual page where it says: 11) Close the radiator cap (or the coolant filler tank cap on turbo models), and start the engine. Race 5 to 6 times at 3,000 rpm or less, then stop the engine. (Complete this operation within 40 seconds.) 12) Wait for one minute after the engine stops, then open the radiator cap (or the coolant filler tank cap on turbo models). If the engine coolant level drops, add engine coolant into the radiator (or the coolant filler tank on turbo models) up to the filler neck position. 13) Perform the procedures 11) and 12) again. 14) Install the radiator cap (or the coolant filler tank cap on turbo models) and reservoir tank cap properly. 15) Start the engine and operate the heater at maximum hot position and the blower speed setting to “LO”. 16) Run the engine at 2,000 rpm or less until radiator fan starts and stops. NOTE: • Be careful with the engine coolant temperature gauge to prevent overheating. • If the radiator hose becomes harden with the pressure of engine coolant, air bleeding operation seems to be almost completed. 17) Stop the engine and wait until the engine coolant temperature lowers to 30°C (86°F) or less. 18) Open the radiator cap (or the coolant filler tank cap on turbo models). If the engine coolant level drops, add engine coolant into the coolant filler tank up to the filler neck position and the reservoir tank to “FULL” level. 19) Install the radiator cap (or the coolant filler tank cap on turbo models) and reservoir tank cap properly. 20) Set the heater setting to maximum hot position and the blower speed setting to “LO” and start the engine. Perform racing at 3,000 rpm or less. If the flowing sound is heard from heater core, repeat the procedures from step 16)................. I don't remove the undercover, but I do open the oil filter access hatch. I access the drain plug from the top, after removing the air filter intake duct. I don't race the engine for 40 seconds. I don't do step 15. In step 16 I run the engine at 2000-3000 rpm, until the cooling fans come on. I squeeze the upper and lower hoses several times during and after adding coolant, and before putting the caps back on. I don't bother with removing the bottom hose and thermostat, because that step only drains another 1/4 quart of old coolant, after draining the radiator via the drain plug. Never had any problems with trapped air or overheating using this approach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 I don't bother with removing the bottom hose and thermostat, because that step only drains another 1/4 quart of old coolant, after draining the radiator via the drain plug. I did removed the thermostat housing a couple of times to drain what was behind it because if you let it drain to the point of being only a cup of stuff it takes a really long time. I was switching from regular green to Subaru blue coolant so wanted to get as much as possible of the old out before filling with the new long life stuff. For me it was worth the little effort to pop the housing and get it all out rapidly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 To flush mine, I just filled it up with tap water and ran it, then drained. I repeated this process a few times (2-3) until I couldn't see any more coolant color. It took about 1-2 gallons of water. I put Peak long life (green) and tap water in a 50/50 mix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No DRFT Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 Don't forget to get something like this. Very useful tool. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_20120616_143211.jpg I have no control over drippie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 Those Lisle burping funnels are priceless. They work so well and any excess coolant you put in there can go right back into the jug when you take it off the coolant tank. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No DRFT Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 I actual did make a mess by placing it in the radiator instead of the turbo reservoir I have no control over drippie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 Yeah - for the turbo versions, with the coolant tank, you use the coolant tank. Otherwise it's too low in the coolant circuit and you can't lift it off without allowing a free-flow from the top of the radiator. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No DRFT Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 No, I didn't close the cap on the turbo reservoir and it came pouring out of there I have no control over drippie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 O.I.C.... That would do it. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cartman Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Got 90k service done at dealer. Service rep stated tech checked coolant and said it was fine. Had coolant flushed at 60k so I assumed this was just automatically done. Are there DIY coolant check kits out there so I know for sure when it is time to flush? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 With Subaru coolant, just change it at the maintenance interval (60K on pre Super-long-life coolant, 100K on Super-long-life). That said, I change mine at 30K and call it a day. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Don't forget to get something like this. Very useful tool. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/4A-FE/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_20120616_143211.jpg I bought a Lisle funnel about a week after doing a coolant change my usual way (followed procedure in service manual). I've never had any overheating problems, or strange noises in the heater core, but I was interested to see how much air was trapped in the cooling system. So I put the funnel in the full turbo coolant tank, started the engine, and after the cooling fan came on, ran the engine at 2000 rpm for 10 minutes. There was an intermittent stream of small air bubbles, nothing major. After letting it all cool down overnight, I was able to add only another 1/3 cup of coolant to the turbo tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.