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Coolant Change


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Your mileage may vary... some coolants are aluminum alloy block friendly, some are not... and therefore your longevity (mileage will vary) if you don't use the Subaru-specified coolants items.

 

I've always used Subaru coolant iand conditioner in all my Subarus. Had six at the time of the original posting, now down to four. No problems with the Head Gaskes in any due to proper coolant change procedures and proper coolant.

 

Therefore YMMV if you use other than Subaru cooalant products.

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I think the key will be whether you use distilled or tap water. There's so much chemical elements in tap water that it makes sense to not introduce that into your cooling system where it will have a bad effect.

 

If you haven't done it already, then my recommendation is to get the Subaru coolant and use that with the distilled water. Take the Prestone back. But that's just me.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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I think the key will be whether you use distilled or tap water. There's so much chemical elements in tap water that it makes sense to not introduce that into your cooling system where it will have a bad effect.

 

If you haven't done it already, then my recommendation is to get the Subaru coolant and use that with the distilled water. Take the Prestone back. But that's just me.

 

SBT is right, and it's not just him.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I just checked the coolant that I just bought and it's the Long Life one. I also bought the conditioner as well. I guess I'll have to dilute it.

 

I re-read the thread and found the instruction you posted before on how to dilute the anti-free, thanks!

 

1 gallon should do it. Per the tech manual, the cooling system holds 7.7 U.S Qts (MT model) and 7.6 U.S. Qts (AT model) which is nearly 8 quarts (2 U.S. gallons). To maintain the recommended 50/50 antifreeze to water dilution on a MT model, you'd need ~ 4 Qts (3.9) of Subaru OEM AF and ~4 Qts (3.9) of distilled water plus the 4 ozs of Subaru Cooling System Conditioner. Should be good to go.

 

Good thing I asked before I put 2 gallon of Long Life into the car! :lol:

 

BTW, any idea about the bleeder nipple? Is there such thing in my 2.5i 4 EAT?

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Gotcha. I was actually referring to the bleed screw though.

 

In Honda's, they typically looked like this:

http://techautorepairs.com/images/bleed-bolt1.gif

 

From what I've been reading, it seems like our car doesn't have such thing. I've read the instruction and there is no mentioning of loosening a bleed screw to let the air bubbles out.

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We don't. I'd follow the how-to that I posted. Oh, and if you haven't gotten one of these [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A4EAV0/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Lisle spill-free funnels[/ame], they are superb for bleeding Subaru coolant systems.
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  • 5 weeks later...
It will completely drain your turbo coolant tank and likely pull (by gravity-feed vacuum) coolant from the top of the motor so you'll introduce air into the system. Don't replace the hose without doing the purge process.
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Does anybody know how to drain the coolant from the reservoir tank? Can we easily take out the bottle? Or, is there a drain plug at the bottom of it?

On my car (same as yours, not sure if turbo is the same) there's just one bolt and you can remove the thing. Then you can give it a thorough cleaning too.

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Does anybody know how to drain the coolant from the reservoir tank? Can we easily take out the bottle? Or, is there a drain plug at the bottom of it?

 

There's one or two bolts at the top and the bottom fits into a post slot IIRC. Undo the bolts, take the hose off below the radiator cap, and lift it out. Clean it out with Simple Green or the Purple stuff and wash it out. Make sure you rinse it really well, several times to get any residue out of the bottle. Reinstall in reverse sequence.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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