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Does it mean 3750 or 7.5k?

Which Mobil 1 did you use?

 

Krzys

 

To clarify: I did Subaru dealer oil changes until the vehicle had about 75k on it, and the frequency was about every 4k to 5k miles. I'm not sure what oil they used for that duration (OEM recommended). After 75k I began the oil changes myself to mostly Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and FRAM filter, also every 4-5k mile, until the turbo blew and grenaded the block at 118k total miles.

 

Interestingly, I've seen a warning to avoid the Mobil 1 Synthetic because the low zinc content is bad for turbos (?).

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IMO, DD cars are not any investment. $7k is a lot cheaper then new car, about 75% cheaper, before tax & interest. Avg. car loan is 66mos. A new car to replace a LGT is about $30k-$35k, a $400-$500+ car payment. Personal loan for $7k, around $130.

If the body is solid, it's always cheaper to fix it, instead of buying new. Plus most 8yr. cars are paid for. And for buying USED, that's like Russian Roulette. You never know what you really buying. At less when you fix it. You know what you had before & after you fixed it.

 

Mike

 

Exactly.

Another thing to keep in mind. . . the value of warranty. My new block (and the 16g Turbo from BNR) are warrantied for 1 year only. Then I am on my own to mitigate the risks of this setup. New (and many 'recertified' used) cars offer coverage for such unknows to a greater extent.

Still, it's true that there is a lot of the same value in knowing the full history of your own ride, and I've decided it's a mission that I can take on. (With much thanks to the rich information on the forums).

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the latest with my car is check engine light on due to a P0700 (transmission code) Tried clearing it with the AP but it doesn't want to clear because the TCU probably still has its codes and is making the damn light stay on.

 

I'm in that same debate right now myself, Do I put a few thousand into this car and get if running right or do I go get a new truck like I was planning on doing this year.. It will be one of those annoying decisions that is constantly on my mind but hopefully I'll figure it all out soon and finally just decide on one or the other. The truck i want to see though is the 2014 silverado so if I can get the car to last until it hits lots I think I just may change out at that time.

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Does it mean 3750 or 7.5k?

Which Mobil 1 did you use?

 

Krzys

 

To clarify: I did Subaru dealer oil changes until the vehicle had about 75k on it, and the frequency was about every 4k to 5k miles. I'm not sure what oil they used for that duration (OEM recommended). After 75k I began the oil changes myself to mostly Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and FRAM filter, also every 4-5k mile, until the turbo blew and grenaded the block at 118k total miles.

 

Interestingly, I've seen a warning to avoid the Mobil 1 Synthetic because the low zinc content is bad for turbos (?).

Tacityne, you still did not answer the question, "Which Mobil 1 did you use?"

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Turbo #2 Blown.... Bad Bearing according to dealer.

 

Will be calling SOA, but expecting them to fight a second Warranty Coverage after 30K miles since warranty replacement....

 

Although I do change my oil religiously @ 3,750 with Amsoil Siganture Series & Filter....

 

Update - Dealer is diagnosing it to be an oil issue - Oil was found to be extremely thin in weight (Like Water was the Quote)

 

SOA has offered $500 in "Good Will"

 

I took it and am moving on to a VF52 with upgrades to Fuel plus Up/Downpipe:):wub:

 

Will also at least remove the screen if not go aftermarket oil line:p

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Up to 22 days without my girl... found a rebuilt turbo through pureturbos.com - had to stay stock as I'm short on cash. Thinking oil starvation is the cause. Unfortunately, I bought the car when she was just outside of warranty... otherwise, I would have purchased extended warranty if it was an option.

 

Name: dollywoodjess

 

Make: 2005 Legacy GT Limited

 

Mileage: 99,675

 

Time Out Of Use: 4 days so far... researching options

 

Problem And Likely Cause: Not sure yet

 

Modifications: Cold air intake

 

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): No

 

Reason Given For Denial (if applicable):

 

Your Story: Driving at highway speeds and heard a pop followed by CEL and flashing cruise. Pulled the code and it was P0011 but heard the deathly whining noise and knew something else was wrong, considering I had severe power loss. Sad panda.

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krzyss and HAMMER DOWN please share your secrets of your long life. What oil and filter are you guys using? What other wisdom can you impart on the community?

 

My 06 has 103K on the original VF-40, all stock, no mods except suspension, but I use Castrol GTX 5W-30 at 3K OCI since new with NAPA Gold (WIX) filter. No extended OCI here.

 

Thanks.

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Name: Greg Garman

 

Make: 2005 Legacy GT

 

Mileage: 52,000 first time, 60,000 second time

 

Time Out Of Use: 3 months now

 

Problem And Likely Cause: Blown Turbo the first time - oil starvation Second time blown turbo and motor - turbin shaft sheered

Modifications: none

 

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No):

 

I recieved got this car from the original owner after the turbo went out the second time and the Subaru dealer told him that the turbo was oil starved and the turbin shaft sheered and the engine was shot.

The turbo went out the first time when the car had 52,000 miles on it. The Subaru service center said the turbo was oil starved because the screen plugged. The owner had changed the oil every 2600 miles and has reciepts to prove it. He had the OEM turbo replaced at a private shop because the Subaru dealer would not cover it under warranty.

The car worked fine for 14 months and then the turbo went out again. This time the Subaru service center said the turbo was oil starved due to the screen plugging, the turbin wheel was sheered off and the engine was also bad.

The car has set for three months since. I recieved the car and tore the engine down last night. The banjo screen bolt was installed on the wrong oil line. It was installed on the oil line to the variable valve timing oil supply line on the left side of the engine (as you sit in the drivers seat).

The engine smelled strongly of burned oil and the turbo shaft was sheered off.

I believe there is an engineering problem with this installation or just poor quality turbos. I am at an impass on this. I either have to put a new aftermarket turbo on this and clean up this engine or go to a normally aspirated engine installation. The conversion to normally aspirated is an extensive one but it would make this a good dependable car. I just don't know that I want to put a lot of money into a new turbo and redoing this engine only to have the thing blow up again in a few months.

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MiniStiGuy,

 

Castrol makes a good oil. I used on my 1990 Legacy and I got 209K before I traded it in. Compression was right at spec at 160psi all 4 cylinders. Lie you the tranny was goin gon that car and it wasn't worth fixing. The car owed my nothing.

 

Consumer Reports tested oils years ago and Castrol GTX had very low sludge if any at all. Oils that sludge up would clog the banjo bolt filter I would think. It seems strange that someone that changes the oil and filter every 3K would get a blown turbo, but I'm sure there are many variables in every case.

 

Hopefully my turbo will last as long as HAMMER DOWN's.

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Good luck with that project. I've only had 5MTs. My '90 was a 5MT, but the synchro to 2nd gear was gone.

 

My son has an '08 LGT, stage 2 with an auto trans. with maybe 55K and he had to get the torque converter replaced under his extended warranty. It's not clear if it was the stage 2 that did it in or it was just bad.

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krzyss and HAMMER DOWN please share your secrets of your long life. What oil and filter are you guys using? What other wisdom can you impart on the community?

 

My 06 has 103K on the original VF-40, all stock, no mods except suspension, but I use Castrol GTX 5W-30 at 3K OCI since new with NAPA Gold (WIX) filter. No extended OCI here.

 

Thanks.

From thread below, which is a good read.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reliability-modifications-178342.html?t=178342&highlight=reliability

 

Want your turbo too last as long as your motor. In short, check you oil level often & top as needed. Use whatever oil & filter that will protect for the OCI's your running. OA's is the only way you know that your oil & filter is up for the challenge. After that IMO no OA's are needed.

 

Mike

 

FYI, some of the people in this community. Think I'm crazy to irresponsible, how I maintain my cars & share that knowledge with others.

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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Hey Mike,

 

Thanks for the link. I remember reading that some time ago. I'll save the link.

 

I do alot of what is said there, but I never got a boost test. I'll need to do that. I check my oil often and it's always right where I filled it to at the oil change. No oil consumption from what I can tell. I guess that's a good thing.

 

Well, I don't think you're crazy. I can always learn how to do things better.

 

Take care,

 

John

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I used 7.5K OCI from the beginning, I am the original owner. 7.5K miles with no more than100 miles variation.

I used infamous Mobil 1 5W30 for first 60K miles, then after problems started to surface I switched to Castrol Syntec 0W30 (aka German Castrol). I figured if it is good enough for VW oil beater engine (1.8T) then it should be good enough for Subaru.

I used whatever filters were on sale with oil in the AutoZone (K&N, Bosch, Mobil 1 occasionally).

I allowed my oil to go too low to register on the dip stick once and I have never made the same mistake again. I think I use 1-1.5 quarts to top off oil during these 7.5K miles.

 

One problem that I had and may be attributed to oil was AVCS solenoid failure 2 years (I think) ago.

 

I hope the car keeps going for next 5 years as my middle daughter will use it to drive to the college.

 

I have never worked close to home and anything is 20 minutes away from me. The car accumulated miles during commutes to work that were 65, 45 and now 47 miles away.

 

Krzys

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krxyss,

 

Thanks for your input. It seems to me the type of oil goes along way for longivity. Your OCI, however, defies the typical. There are folks here that had OCIs of 3K and got a blown turbo. You must have gotten one robust turbo from new. I really don't have the guts to go 7.5K for OCIs. I'll stick to 3K with Castrol GTX (mainly becasue I have about 6-5qt bottles in my garage). Hopefully I can get the miles out my turbo that you guys have.

 

Cheers!

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The conversion to normally aspirated is an extensive one but it would make this a good dependable car. I just don't know that I want to put a lot of money into a new turbo and redoing this engine only to have the thing blow up again in a few months.

 

The conversion is very simple. Sell car. Buy 2.5i or 3.0R. Attempting to convert a GT to a 2.5i will be more expensive than selling the car and buying a new one. You can probably just trade it in, blown motor and all, and not come out too far behind fixing it and then selling.

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