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Anyone with an OEM blown turbo please post!


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It's been a long while since I've been on the site. My Subaru is doing well (knock on wood) but I'm starting to worry about turbo longevity, in general. So, I figured I'd post my experience here... I imagine most won't post if they are having no problems, yet here I am.

 

Story

Since the turbo hasn't failed, I can only provide my "Story" as requested in the first post: I have been running a Stage 2 eTune from TDC (I think?) and a Crucial UP/DP setup and an aftermarket TMIC (I forget the brand at the moment)... all on the stock turbo (2006 LGT). The car has been this way since early 2006. I'm at 101k miles now, and haven't had an issue to-date. I still have my banjo filter and such as well... never got around to taking it out, and stuck to using good oil and watching the results carefully.

 

I'm not gentle with my car, and go WOT daily... but I don't beat on it and abuse it either. I do UOAs (used oil analysis) regularly, and have been using Rotella T6 synthetic for the most part, with about 6-9k intervals. My previous UOA showed a trace of coolant in the oil, which is what has me worried now... but it may have been a sampling error on my part. I have a second sample out now, so we'll see how that goes.

 

Anyway, after some reading, I am guessing I won't see any real way to find the "longevity" of the turbo... because those without problems won't likely be here... hell I'm a pretty good example of that, as I haven't been on the site in well over a year.

 

So, I'm guessing I just need to consider a proactive replacement... unless someone disagrees? I assume turbo failures are catastrophic and can damage the motor as well... are there normally any warning signs, or is it just too fast to catch?

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I assume turbo failures are catastrophic and can damage the motor as well... are there normally any warning signs, or is it just too fast to catch?

 

It depends on why the turbo failed. Oil starvation is a catastrophic failure. Bearing failures due to wear are rarely catastrophic. The common warning sign is a high pitched whine. Its usually easiest to hear by going into boost, then letting off suddenly so the engine noise drops. As the turbo spools down you'll hear the frequency drop. Eventually, you'll get a catastrophic failure when the turbo fins hit the sidewall too much or the bearing seizes.

 

As simple preventative maintenance, you can pull/replace the banjo bolts, and pull the downpipe to visually inspect the turbo.

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As I predicted, oil starvation. $1100 later, I have a rebuilt vf40, clean banjo bolt screen and new timing belt. I've never been so happy to get in my car! It's definitely love... :wub:

 

Up to 22 days without my girl... found a rebuilt turbo through pureturbos.com - had to stay stock as I'm short on cash. Thinking oil starvation is the cause. Unfortunately, I bought the car when she was just outside of warranty... otherwise, I would have purchased extended warranty if it was an option.
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48k miles and no problems so far, though I did check the banjo filter 2k miles ago and it was completely clean. I put it back in, but now I wonder if I should have left it out? This seems like one of those damned if I do damned if I don't scenarios.:confused:
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It depends on why the turbo failed. Oil starvation is a catastrophic failure. Bearing failures due to wear are rarely catastrophic. The common warning sign is a high pitched whine. Its usually easiest to hear by going into boost, then letting off suddenly so the engine noise drops. As the turbo spools down you'll hear the frequency drop. Eventually, you'll get a catastrophic failure when the turbo fins hit the sidewall too much or the bearing seizes.

 

As simple preventative maintenance, you can pull/replace the banjo bolts, and pull the downpipe to visually inspect the turbo.

Perfect - thanks for the info. Maybe I can live on the turbo a while longer. The downpipe actually has a tiny leak between the lower flange and the rest of the exhaust, and I never see any oil there (only clear water on cold days at startup, as expected). I will keep an eye on the oil consumption, overall, but at most I'm losing about 1 quart every 7k miles (per my last change).

 

I also got my UOA back, and it looks good (no more trace of coolant)... so maybe I was just being a bit paranoid.

 

Still, it's good to know that I can hope for a "slow failure" with oil burning as evidence!

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Name: Neil

 

Make: 2005 Legacy GT

 

Mileage: 101,XXX

 

Problem And Likely Cause: Blown turbo. Cause unknown but the oil level in the motor was fine, probably clogged filter?

 

Modifications: None.

 

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): No

 

Reason Given For Denial (if applicable):

 

Your Story: I bought this car in October and have driven it very sparingly, putting less than 800 miles on it. I figured I was in no rush to have it gone through by the local Subaru shop as it's not my daily driver and was running great. The turbo went about two weeks ago after normal driving around town. Being new to Subarus and turbos, I didn't originally know what had happened, only that there was noise coming from where the turbo sits. I had it towed to a shop and they refused to work on the car at all with a blown turbo. I then took it to a dealer who found metal fragments in the oil pan and quoted an astronomical figure to put in a new motor.

 

I've got the car at my house currently and am trying to figure out what to do with it. Reading through this thread and others has been a little overwhelming. I'd rather not put a bunch of money into the car and I don't have a great place to work on it myself. What sort of money do these go for with these issues? Mine is a 5-speed wagon with the black leather interior in good condition outside of the engine.

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I do really like the car and was looking for a 5-speed wagon for a while, so I don't particularly like the idea of letting it go for nothing. That said, buying a new block and turbo and putting it all together is a bit daunting. I've only done very basic work on cars.

 

I've tried looking through the classifieds here for similarly optioned cars and what they've sold for in this condition but haven't had any luck. A ballpark figure would be nice to have so I can make a decision on whether to fix or sell.

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If you sell it stick it on the forum. It won't last long

 

A brand new short block from Subaru, EJ257 is 1800

Get the heads rebuilt and a new turbo.

It will be total in the neighborhood of about 5 grand but in the end you will have one nice car that could easily be sold and get all your money back.

Not sure what you paid for it but again you have a really rare sought after car in the subaru community.

 

If you fix it run synthetic oil like Rotella T6 after break in and change it every 3K, remove the banjo filters and you will have a car that will last a long time

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i recently had both p0011 and p0021 codes pop up, every thread i read it seems like only one or the other. the car still runs good even though im scared to drive it. every time i call suba pros they tell me to replace the sensors before the valves but the chance of both of them popping up? what could it be..
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  • 10 months later...

Knock on wood, my 2006 LGT has 115k on the stock turbo. Stage 2 since about 50k, IIRC.

 

Ministiguy, how did yours actually fail? Presumably it wasn't catastrophic? What were the symptoms? Just trying to prepare myself!

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

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