MiniStiGuy Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 It's like a twin of mine.. OEM HID's Rx330 Retro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 One has blown, another about to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 It's like a twin of mine.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 One has blown, another about to. Your saying your 1st one blew and your 2nd one is about to? Yea I already have the Bulletproof version sitting in my bedroom waiting for install. BarManBean took care of me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krzyss Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 ... I was meticulous on the upkeep and I know the turbo got farther than many. ... What was OCI and what oil are you using? Krzys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Your saying your 1st one blew and your 2nd one is about to? Yup. As far as I know the first one that blew had 110k miles on it and this has 17.8k and it's leaking oil badly. Hopefully I can get one soon. I'm driving on borrowed time on turbo lag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 That sucks! How do you know it's leaking oil? (Maybe sounds like a dumb question) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiniStiGuy Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 You'll either see it in the DP as residue or you'll see it on the outside of the housing. OEM HID's Rx330 Retro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 You'll either see it in the DP as residue or you'll see it on the outside of the housing. Gotcha... So if the outside of the turbo looks good, and nothing in the downpipe, oil breach shouldn't be an issue originating from the turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiniStiGuy Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 You also want to heck the actual oil line to see if its leaking around it anywhere. If all of those are good looking then you are mostly likely burning the oil or losing it somewhere else. You can also look in the lower area of the UP where the headers connect to it to see if its coming out the exhaust valves. OEM HID's Rx330 Retro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 You'll either see it in the DP as residue or you'll see it on the outside of the housing. ^this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 You'll either see it in the DP as residue or you'll see it on the outside of the housing. ^this Absent any external signs on the turbo itself, and without taking off your DP, you may see an overabundance of oily residue on your exhaust tips. That would prompt me to pull the DP. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiniStiGuy Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 If it gets back to the tips through both cats and the mufflers.. I'd be scared.. OEM HID's Rx330 Retro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 True. My comment was presuming this is on a single cat or no-catted TBE... - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Yea I'm pretty sure my tips are just carbon/exhaust build up like normal. No oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacityne Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Out of curiosity what is the cost of a shortblock? With a non-dealer subaru specialist (colorado) it totaled, with labor, $5,375 for new Short Block, Seals, Oil Pump Assy, Hoses, Oil Cooler, Oil Control Valve, etc. I did a clutch job, timing belt & tensioner, water pump in addition to this while it was open, so it came to about $7k. . . plus the BNR 16g. So much for retirement! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 With a non-dealer subaru specialist (colorado) it totaled, with labor, $5,375 for new Short Block, Seals, Oil Pump Assy, Hoses, Oil Cooler, Oil Control Valve, etc. I did a clutch job, timing belt & tensioner, water pump in addition to this while it was open, so it came to about $7k. . . plus the BNR 16g. So much for retirement! ......... I could NEVER justify that level of investment in a 8+ yr old car... HOLY HELL! I'd probably swap in a used full motor, and sell it first, or just scrap it ha... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacityne Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 What was OCI and what oil are you using? Krzys I stuck to dealer oil changes until about 75k, then started my own mostly on mobile 1 synthetic. Always at about 4k OCI, though I have to admit a couple of stretches 'till about 5k. I don't drive it extreme (excepting some ski-season hill climbs). Always had oil consumption, and topped it once or twice between changes. A couple times I got lazy and didn't catch it till it was low on the dipstick. (i'm starting to think that some low periods in conjunction with 3k+ miles on the oil may have lead to gunk in the turbo banjo filters). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacityne Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 ......... I could NEVER justify that level of investment in a 8+ yr old car... HOLY HELL! I'd probably swap in a used full motor, and sell it first, or just scrap it ha... Yes, it was a hard [knife-edge] decision. But daily driver I needed, and it has a salvage title from the first owner (pre 15k), which bruises the resale. . . And besides, now it has essentially 0 miles on the motor, plus my sound system, alarm, racks, tune parts still in place. I can't come up with an $8k used vehicle that would have that value. If this scenario had waited for 1 more year I'd scrap it tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Yes, it was a hard [knife-edge] decision. But daily driver I needed, and it has a salvage title from the first owner (pre 15k), which bruises the resale. . . And besides, now it has essentially 0 miles on the motor, plus my sound system, alarm, racks, tune parts still in place. I can't come up with an $8k used vehicle that would have that value. If this scenario had waited for 1 more year I'd scrap it tho. Yea totally makes sense, I think it's a case by case scenario FOR SURE. I mean assuming someone had a car with an ABSURD amount of new parts from the ground up, and decided to reinvest in the motor (Which seems similar to your case) I can see it being like you said one of those "Knife edge" decisions Now mine for instance, while she's still running pretty darn nice, and I've invested some $$$ in pretty solid big ticket maint items... With the miles being at 100k and not knowing how much life is left in things like the trans, the differentials, the suspension would need to be replaced soon... it would just be to much to bet on in my case... I'm looking for another solid 2-3 more years, save some cash hopefully and step up into something new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 IMO, DD cars are not any investment. $7k is a lot cheaper then new car, about 75% cheaper, before tax & interest. Avg. car loan is 66mos. A new car to replace a LGT is about $30k-$35k, a $400-$500+ car payment. Personal loan for $7k, around $130. If the body is solid, it's always cheaper to fix it, instead of buying new. Plus most 8yr. cars are paid for. And for buying USED, that's like Russian Roulette. You never know what you really buying. At less when you fix it. You know what you had before & after you fixed it. Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 IMO, DD cars are not any investment. $7k is a lot cheaper then new car, about 75% cheaper, before tax & interest. Avg. car loan is 66mos. A new car to replace a LGT is about $30k-$35k, a $400-$500+ car payment. Personal loan for $7k, around $130. If the body is solid, it's always cheaper to fix it, instead of buying new. Plus most 8yr. cars are paid for. And for buying USED, that's like Russian Roulette. You never know what you really buying. At less when you fix it. You know what you had before & after you fixed it. Mike Dont disagree in the slightest... thats why I even mentioned case by case, just depends on your "Motivations" I for one, will be interested in another car in the next 2-3 years... so that severely limits my Maint investment motivations. My car has been paid off for probably at least 2 years, and I've even done the math on my savings over just the course of the next 2 years of no equivalent car payment which is roughly 11-12k minus even 3 grand in significant maintenance items, still leaves a savings of 9k! So thats the money I intend to use on other priorities at the moment lol... It's all one big fun equation at the end of the day lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Dont disagree in the slightest... thats why I even mentioned case by case, just depends on your "Motivations" I for one, will be interested in another car in the next 2-3 years... so that severely limits my Maint investment motivations. I didn't see that, because I was typing my reply why'll you was posting yours:spin:. When I buy new, I usually keep it until the rust belt claims it. When I just need a car, but don't see anything I like to keep. Then I buy used. Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 I didn't see that, because I was typing my reply why'll you was posting yours:spin:. When I buy new, I usually keep it until the rust belt claims it. When I just need a car, but don't see anything I like to keep. Then I buy used. Mike all good... And yea, I've had quite a few cars, I'm just one of those people that REALLY enjoy mechanical accomplishments and totally not one of those "I drive it to get from A-Z nothing more" kind of guys... Also why I probably don't keep cars as long as I COULD... Although I'm doing awesome at not getting to much of a trigger finger and jumping out of the legacy, I've had her since her birth in 05 But I know I'll be ready for change in a few more years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krzyss Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 I stuck to dealer oil changes until about 75k, then started my own mostly on mobile 1 synthetic. Always at about 4k OCI, though I have to admit a couple of stretches 'till about 5k. I don't drive it extreme (excepting some ski-season hill climbs). Always had oil consumption, and topped it once or twice between changes. A couple times I got lazy and didn't catch it till it was low on the dipstick. (i'm starting to think that some low periods in conjunction with 3k+ miles on the oil may have lead to gunk in the turbo banjo filters). Does it mean 3750 or 7.5k? Which Mobil 1 did you use? Krzys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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