tvh13 Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 Hi All, I have an '05 5MT LGT. The clutch has started slipping. I have called my local dealer here in Boston (Cityside in Belmont). They quote me $1950. for the job w/flywheel. Is this a reasonable price? If so this is going to break me. Can others give me an idea of what they have paid? I am wondering if I can do better going elsewhere to get the job done (ie. not a dealer)? Anyone live in the Boston area and have a service that they can recommend? Any advice would be most appreciated. TIA, -T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 wtf!!!??? $1950?!? It should half that in cluding parts. labor should be 400-500, and parts should be 500-600 if you are buying a new flywheel. a replacement dual mass flywheel is expensive. If you just want to replace the stock clutch, get the stock preassureplate and disc, and then buy the spec LW flywheel to fit it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy05 Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 Hi All, I have an '05 5MT LGT. The clutch has started slipping. I have called my local dealer here in Boston (Cityside in Belmont). They quote me $1950. for the job w/flywheel. Is this a reasonable price? If so this is going to break me. Can others give me an idea of what they have paid? I am wondering if I can do better going elsewhere to get the job done (ie. not a dealer)? Anyone live in the Boston area and have a service that they can recommend? Any advice would be most appreciated. TIA, -T What are they charging you just for labor??? You can order the clutch kit + flywheel from king of parts at a discounted rate to us forum members. You'll be looking at around 800-900 for the two combined I believe. If the dealer charges you 1000 for labor .. then go somewhere else I had my clutch / flywheel replaced at a local tuner shop that specializes in suby's for about 500 bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvh13 Posted February 7, 2008 Author Share Posted February 7, 2008 Thanks for your opinions. I have called a few dealers and they all want around $1900. (!). So I am now looking for a non-dealer option and am stuck. I live in Cambridge Massachusetts and have no idea where to take my beloved LGT. I don't want to take it to someone who doesn't have experience with this car. Thoughts? Suggestions? This is a bummer but I did buy the car used and also it took some time for me to get used to the clutch on this car. After having driven a similar car I think that the clutch/flywheel may have been "upgraded" but that is purely conjecture on my part. TIA. -T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05gtlimited300 Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 id say take the drive up to TDC. its a little far but they probably have the best expierence with LGT's in New England. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanboy Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 Can give Dentsport Garage a call, they are over in Norwood. Not too far, and are certainly Subaru knowledgable. -B http://www.standardshift.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy05 Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 Yeah shops tend to charge more for labor for sure .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qikslvr Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 Best bet would probably be to get the OE clutch pack from King-of-Parts and a SPEC LWFW from KOP or JSCSPEED.com and have a local transmission shop install it. I paid the dealership a grand total of $535 for the install labor and fluids. I brought my own parts that were right at $900 total. So i guess it was about $1450 all said and done. Let's kick this pig! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapeStylz Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 i am about to do my clutch i baught my parts direct from subaru and im having a certified shop do install.... i have a used car "extended warrenty" DEALER PRICES $158.07 Clutch Disc $173.98 Clutch Plate $ 40.00 Throw out bearing TOTAL:$372.05 SHOP PRICES $ 11.16 Shop supplies $360.00 Clutch.Pilot Bearing-remove and replace (includes Remove&Install Transaxle assy) $14.40 Hazardous Materials TOTAL Labor $385.56 TOTAL Parts and Labor $776.77 just an FYI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ABPillinois Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 I would recommend a new flywheel I didn't see mine but other members have noted cracks and stress on original DM Flywheel. I have posted this in another thread I think if someone is in search of on OEM like clutch the stock or stage one Exedy clutch for a 06+ Wrx and the OEM flywheel would be perfect. Prices are for informational purposes I would buy them from the King if it were me but I don't know if they would sell the upgraded Exedy unit. I think if you were to get a WRX flywheel and oem clutch you will have to look into a 06+ Wrx clutch. the LGT style clutch will not work with the Wrx flywheel. The ACT setup with the Wrx flywheel is a Wrx style clutch therefore works with the OEM Wrx flywheel. OEM 06-07 Wrx Exedy clutch http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXEDY...spagenameZWDVW Exedy Stage 1 06-07 Wrx clutch http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXEDY...spagenameZWDVW Less than $100 difference if you plan on modding much you might want to think about an upgrade FWIW Oem wrx flywheel from KOP is $199 Stage 1 clutch 389 Flywheel 199 Install 350 Gaskets 30 Total 968 Dealer and/or Tranny shop can easily do the install (dealer wants like 500-550 for install). Replacing clutch on Subarus are very straight forward. :rolleyes:"All right, brain, I don't like you and you don't like me - so let's just do this and I'll get back to killing you with beer." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapeStylz Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 im staying stock fw and clutch cause my tranny is about to go and they cant use the excuse that its cause my presure plate is boke( long story) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 Why are people telling stock folks to go with a Spec LWFW when they aren't even asking for something different? For the unknowledgable, that would be one hell of a shock when they go to drive it. WRX OEM Flywheel or LGT OEM Dual-Mass Flywheel and OEM clutch for people who want to stay stock. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 For the same reason they suggest a SZ-49 turbo or larger for anyone who asks about turbo upgrades.... Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 Hi All, I have an '05 5MT LGT. The clutch has started slipping. I have called my local dealer here in Boston (Cityside in Belmont). They quote me $1950. for the job w/flywheel. Is this a reasonable price? If so this is going to break me. Can others give me an idea of what they have paid? I am wondering if I can do better going elsewhere to get the job done (ie. not a dealer)? Anyone live in the Boston area and have a service that they can recommend? Any advice would be most appreciated. TIA, -T DO NOT. First, that's ridiculous price as others said. Second, Cityside is bunch of sleazy crooks. Do not go there for any reason. For parts contact THEKINGSOFPARTS - a vendor here, he will hook you up with best prices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubLo Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 +1. That's crazy talk - textbook mechanic/shop scam. I paid $677 from ImportImageOnline (LGT vendor) for my sprung ACT 6-puck (all accy like pressure plate + bearing) and ACT LWFW combo. Josh is a great guy. My labor just cost me $250 for installation. $927 total cost installed. Ask around. I'm sure someone in your area on these boards can point you to a trustworthy installer. ________________________________________________ [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1980"]'05 BSM OBXT Row-your-own, W.I.P. :rolleyes:[/URL] [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1242"]'06 Shrek B # 64 - The car the wife loved to hate :( Sold...[/URL] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 Pm this guy. He is in CT: woah $1600? my friend whos an ex suby tech does it for $200 (labor) i helped one of my buds install an ACT clutch on his LGT and i swear this was one of the simplest installs weve had so far... what went wrong? normally when a shop qoutes a price its by the book... they shouldnt charge you more if they have problems... http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1595325&postcount=11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integroid Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 Just a FYI - all the delaers in my area charge 6 hours worth of labor to do the swap. Even TopSpeed charges 6 hours of labor to do the swap. I would much rather pay Topspeed to do it than my dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chenc544 Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 Why are people telling stock folks to go with a Spec LWFW when they aren't even asking for something different? For the unknowledgable, that would be one hell of a shock when they go to drive it. WRX OEM Flywheel or LGT OEM Dual-Mass Flywheel and OEM clutch for people who want to stay stock. Joe I think mostly because people don't like the stock DM FW. I know I'm not a fan of it. It's kindda like the RE92, you certainly wouldn't recommand people to buy another set of RE92 when the old set is worn out. OEM WRX flywheel is a good option though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportwagon Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 any updates??? I'm looking to do a clutch with my tax returns... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 http://www.fredbeansparts.com/ has the best prices i've seen like $255 if you stay with your FW. save even more, DIY! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qikslvr Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 I think mostly because people don't like the stock DM FW. I know I'm not a fan of it. It's kindda like the RE92, you certainly wouldn't recommand people to buy another set of RE92 when the old set is worn out. OEM WRX flywheel is a good option though. +1 That and the fact that most of the people who come here to get advise are in a bind(waited until the clutch totally failed) and are looking for the absolute bottom dollar fix. The OE DM FW isn't cheap and I have a SPEC LWFW/STG2 Clutch and there is almost no noticable difference in driveability after the break in period and I'm sure it would be even less noticable with the OE clutch pack. The best solution for the vast majority of the users here would be to just replace everything with OE parts. Keeping in mind that the FW almost always has to be replaced on the LGT unlike most other vehicles. This usually comes as an unexpected additional expense to most owners which puts them into "built by the lowest bidder mode". There are so many things that need to be considered when choosing a new clutch. People need to know what they plan for power upgrades if any at all. They need to consider weather or not they can actually adjust to and drive an aftermarket clutch. They also need to think about how long they expect a new cluth to last. I guess the point is that each individual owner needs to decide for themselves exactly what they want and need out of a new clutch. The rest of us can only give them ALL the available options and all allow them to make a decision based on their own needs. I'm sure most of us would rather know all the available options and choose from those rather than have someone who thinks they know what's best tell us that we should only consider option A period. That's BS. I nor anybody else on here should be telling people that they NEED to get setup X. Our responsibility is to educate the other on what is available, share our first hand experiences from parts we have used on THIS vehicle and let them decide for themselves. I've heard so many people on here saying that "you gotta get brand X, that's what I had on my Model T 50 years ago and it worked great". Thanks, but I don't see how that applies to the LGT. I also see a lot of people who have never used a certain brand/part on THEIR car, but have strong opinions about said product based on what they've heard, read or what their buddy had. Sorry, but again unless it was your LGT and you had to live with it, I don't think that opinion count's. Again, we should give those who ask for our input all the available options and spes for whatever they are looking for, share our first hand experiences and allow them to make an educacted and informed decision on their own. If they need more info on any given setup; send them to someone who has that setup installed and will give them the cold hard truth about it. I love my SPEC clutch/LWFW setup, but I don't claim that it was perfect right off and I don't push it on anyone. Instead, I invite them to read my review and decide for themselves. Sorry, but I had to get that out. Let's kick this pig! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportwagon Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 +1 That and the fact that most of the people who come here to get advise are in a bind(waited until the clutch totally failed) and are looking for the absolute bottom dollar fix. The OE DM FW isn't cheap and I have a SPEC LWFW/STG2 Clutch and there is almost no noticable difference in driveability after the break in period and I'm sure it would be even less noticable with the OE clutch pack. The best solution for the vast majority of the users here would be to just replace everything with OE parts. Keeping in mind that the FW almost always has to be replaced on the LGT unlike most other vehicles. This usually comes as an unexpected additional expense to most owners which puts them into "built by the lowest bidder mode". There are so many things that need to be considered when choosing a new clutch. People need to know what they plan for power upgrades if any at all. They need to consider weather or not they can actually adjust to and drive an aftermarket clutch. They also need to think about how long they expect a new cluth to last. I guess the point is that each individual owner needs to decide for themselves exactly what they want and need out of a new clutch. The rest of us can only give them ALL the available options and all allow them to make a decision based on their own needs. I'm sure most of us would rather know all the available options and choose from those rather than have someone who thinks they know what's best tell us that we should only consider option A period. That's BS. I nor anybody else on here should be telling people that they NEED to get setup X. Our responsibility is to educate the other on what is available, share our first hand experiences from parts we have used on THIS vehicle and let them decide for themselves. I've heard so many people on here saying that "you gotta get brand X, that's what I had on my Model T 50 years ago and it worked great". Thanks, but I don't see how that applies to the LGT. I also see a lot of people who have never used a certain brand/part on THEIR car, but have strong opinions about said product based on what they've heard, read or what their buddy had. Sorry, but again unless it was your LGT and you had to live with it, I don't think that opinion count's. Again, we should give those who ask for our input all the available options and spes for whatever they are looking for, share our first hand experiences and allow them to make an educacted and informed decision on their own. If they need more info on any given setup; send them to someone who has that setup installed and will give them the cold hard truth about it. I love my SPEC clutch/LWFW setup, but I don't claim that it was perfect right off and I don't push it on anyone. Instead, I invite them to read my review and decide for themselves. Sorry, but I had to get that out. Good Post! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportwagon Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 So qikslvr... What do you mean about the "break in period"? was your clutch really difficult to become acustomed to, or was it physically that the clutch had to become broken before it performed the way you expected? I was not planning on going with the stock clutch/FW to replace my aging one, and now I am really wondering how much a different clutch setup can affect the way my car feels/drives? I would think that it would only have an effect on the pedal feel... but what else does it change... ??? If for example, say I picked a brand X stage II clutch with a lightweight FW... What is it going to change in the driveability of my car? (I would think the lighter mass FW would improve engine power and the improved clutch material/design would allow the transmission to translate that power better. The tradeoff being that I would have a different "feeling" clutch pedal than what I was previously used to with stock.) Thanks! Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qikslvr Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 Mark, Below is a link to my SPEC Stg2 Clutch and LWFW review thread. In it I lay out some info on what occured after install, adjustments that had to be made, any vibration, noises and feeling I got from my setup during break-in and after. I'll tell you right now that any aftermarket clutch you choose will have a break-in period of at least 500 miles where you cannot floor it or launch it hard and you'll have to rev a little higher to get a clean start from a dead stop, you'll get a little grabby feeling along with some audible chatter and there may need to be some adjustments to the pedal travel. After the break-in period (which just happened to be about 1000 miles for mine to break in properly) the clutch should settle down and start to feel more like stock. Some will roll off the line a 1K RPMs smooth as glass and some will require you to rev to 1500-1700RPMs to come off the line smoothly. It all depends upon the specific clutch/fw package. Read this: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78095&highlight=spec+review Let's kick this pig! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Ed Posted April 19, 2008 Share Posted April 19, 2008 parts and install...i paid $800ish ebay for parts and a good home garage mechanic spec stage 1 and wrx flywheel. 20k miles and at least 25 trips down the 1/4 and couldn't be happier. the stock clutches last about 30-45k...so why pay that much jsut to have it go again? most that I have tlaked to speculate it is due to the massive flywheel so again...why go that route just to be in the same boat in another 30-45k miles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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