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integroid

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Everything posted by integroid

  1. I honestly dont know how much this will have to do with it but the Legacy is also assembled in the US vs. the WRX and STI being assembled in Japan. Different sourced parts (wires) in the US vs Japan?
  2. Yes and yes. Looks like it will work fine.
  3. Dont think the inlet/outlet size is correct. Essentially any check valve will work if you can find on that will fit inline. I looked everywhere and just gave up and got the right part.
  4. My relay is grounded at the same point the FPCM is. It very well could be the relay. I would change the grounding point and maybe even purchase a higher quality relay.
  5. I would check the factory ground for the FPCM.....Actually, I would just use a different ground and bypass the factory ground.
  6. If you rewired with a relay like we said, you would have close to 14.5V at the FPCM. If this will actually help you with your problem? I dont know for sure. Mine was dropping fuel pressure at the upper RPM range with the stock FPCM and wiring.
  7. I agree with Scooby and have already been down that road of wiring my fuel pump to a relay running 100% all the time. What Scooby has posted and I have validated works perfectly.
  8. Sorry, yeah there is a little tab you have to lower to get the pin to slide out. I used a pick tool to get the tab down.
  9. PS, I would buy a quality relay and not a cheap $1 relay. I have seen the cheap relays melt and fail after time. The one below is not too expensive and is a high quality relay. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003510087-Mini-Relay-Bracket/dp/B000VUAJIM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1342748529&sr=8-8&keywords=bosch+relay]Amazon.com: HELLA 003510087 30 Amp 12V Mini SPST Relay with Bracket: Automotive[/ame]
  10. That looks right. Just make sure to replace the ground in the harness of the FPCM with equal gauge wire as the 12V wire from the relay. The ground is just as important as the new 12V power wire.
  11. Cold, the harness is actually labeled on what does what. The only two wires you need to be concerned about are the B+ and E. B+ needs to go to the relay and earth is ground. Both need thicker gauge wire. Personally, I would take the pins out of the harness and solder new thicker gauge wire directly onto the pins. I hope this diagram of the Relay helps. The 12V fan wire should go to the B+ on the FPC. http://www.titantalk.com/forums/attachments/titan-general-discussion/78244d1240275985-looking-10-amps-under-hood-relaywiring.jpg
  12. Strange, I wonder why my alternator voltage is always above 14 volts? I am sure that is the reason...I dont see what else would be different between our setups. Maybe my Fluke Meter needs to be re-calibrated. It is like 10+ years old:)
  13. And I actually took the pins out of the harness and soldered the 10 gauge wire directly onto the pin instead of crimping a new wire to the existing wire off the harness. So there is no step down in the gauge of wire like what you did and it is a true 10 gauge power/ground to the FPCM. It is 14 volts out of the module and at the pump. I forgot to mention I have 4 gauge wire going to my trunk for my stereo system that is connected to a 1.5 farad capacitor. I tied the power source to the relay from the capacitor. I dont know if that would make any difference but I know it will help clean up the power some.
  14. Yeah, I didnt think it would and the wires were actually a thicker gauge going to the pump than the main power/ground for the FPCM. Go figure. I just figured since I had the harness apart and I was already pulling pins out of the harness, I might as well solder up two more pins and run the wires. It really only took me an extra 5 minutes. Thanks Scooby2.5 for the initial findings. I went through two motors before we figured out the voltage problem going to the pump:( PS- you dont need the wiring schematics for the FPCM. It is labeled on the bottom which wire does what. Just remember "E" = Earth Ground:)
  15. "I am sending him a Fuel Pump Controller part number 22750AA010 that I picked up on NASIOC for $45." I picked mine up on ebay for $40 with the bracket and wiring harness. I would suggest finding one that comes with the harness so you can pull the pins out and solder your own wires onto them. The pins from the STI will hold a bigger gauge wire than the the one from the legacy.
  16. Ok, I just got done installing the STI FPC in my wagon. A few things to note. The stock Fuel Pump Controller is located in the rear DRIVER's side. I know this because I took out the interior of the passenger side thinking it was there and nothing. The stock wiring going to the stock Fuel Pump Controller for the Legacy is pathetic. The main power coming from the fuel pump relay is about a 20 gauge wire. The ground is the same. I was lucky enough on getting the wiring harness and hanger from he STI to compare. The main power, ground, and fuel pump power/ground wires are at least 12-14 gauge wire on the STI harness. That is a huge difference compared to the legacy. I wonder if just changing the wiring going to FPC would resolve a lot of issues. I already had the car apart so I went ahead and re-wired everything and stuck the STI FPC in. I ran 10 gauge power/ground to the FPC by soldering them onto the pins in the harness. I also ran new power and ground to the pump but only used 14 gauge wire because the wires in the tank are 16 gauge so there is really no gain by going any bigger. I now have 14+ volts at startup going to the pump.
  17. I had to read that twice before I understood what you did. So since you only changed the input wire to the fuel pump control module, you are still getting a PWM signal to the pump, correct? I wonder if it would of helped to change the wire going to the pump. How did you wire the new lead to the controller? Di you solder it onto the board?
  18. That kit is just a wiring kit. I dont think it will work with the factory wiring at the pump since it is a PWM signal.
  19. Hey Swine, still got the lgt but probably going to sell it soon.
  20. Get rid of your stock pads first. They suck.
  21. I would just a new shortblock from Subaru. At least then you have a warranty with it.
  22. I agree, I would give them a second chance. I have never heard anything negative about AllPro and they are great guys. They have always bent over backwards for me even though I am not a regualr customer.
  23. Well I used an Outback Wagon driveshaft on my Legacy wagon and it worked without any problems.
  24. I wrote in the other thread too. Are you looking up the part numbers for a Legacy Wagon driveshaft and an Outback Driveshaft? I know the sedans and wagons use different driveshafts. The driveshaft I used on my Legacy Wagon came from an Outback Wagon.
  25. Were you looking up Legacy sedan driveshafts? I used an Outback Wagon 4eat drivshaft on my car since I have a wagon. Made the difference is from a wegan to sedan and not so much Legacy to Outback difference.
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