Infamous1 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Not even on a friendly dyno? Still going to need a pump, it would be a very friendly dyno. True 18g's have a tough time making 300whp on some setups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTWILLY Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Still going to need a pump, it would be a very friendly dyno. True 18g's have a tough time making 300whp on some setups. I see, how does the 40-18g compare to a vf39? Just curious as I have seen quite a few sti's put down over 300 with just a stage 2 and protune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous1 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 I see, how does the 40-18g compare to a vf39? Just curious as I have seen quite a few sti's put down over 300 with just a stage 2 and protune. I would give the edge to the VF39, they seem to consistantly put down higher numbers. The vf40-18g is maybe a 20-30whp upgrade over the vf40. The vf39 makes easily 30-40whp more than the vf40 part for part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattg Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Still going to need a pump, it would be a very friendly dyno. True 18g's have a tough time making 300whp on some setups. my true 18G made 280 whp on PDX's mustang, while a vf40-18g made 265. similar spool though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTWILLY Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 I understand now, thank you. i was under the impression that an 18g was more efficient than a vf39 = reasoning for my thought of 300hp. Will definately not be buying an 18g. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoopMan Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 I still must question necessity of fuel upgrades for a vf30-34-39. The basic Cobb stage 2 maps for the stock fuel STI on 91 octane produces 345 hp and 385 ft-lb at the crank, as claimed in their literature. I could not find output at the wheels or IDC's, but seems to me the LGT should be good for the same on stock fuel, given we have the same injectors and a bigger fuel pump. I would imagine that Cobb was pretty careful with their basic maps, I doubt they would be too happy with a reputation for blowing up motors. Their afr at redline is 11.0, which is somewhat richer than most protunes, no? The numbers suggest we run out of injectors before we run out of pump, which makes me question the typical response 'definitely get a pump, but you might think about bigger injectors as well if you want to go BIG later'. If there is more to this than I seem to be grasping, someone please explain... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 I still must question necessity of fuel upgrades for a vf30-34-39. The basic Cobb stage 2 maps for the stock fuel STI on 91 octane produces 345 hp and 385 ft-lb at the crank, as claimed in their literature. I could not find output at the wheels or IDC's, but seems to me the LGT should be good for the same on stock fuel, given we have the same injectors and a bigger fuel pump. I would imagine that Cobb was pretty careful with their basic maps, I doubt they would be too happy with a reputation for blowing up motors. Their afr at redline is 11.0, which is somewhat richer than most protunes, no? The numbers suggest we run out of injectors before we run out of pump, which makes me question the typical response 'definitely get a pump, but you might think about bigger injectors as well if you want to go BIG later'. If there is more to this than I seem to be grasping, someone please explain... Your logic is good, some people stick to tradition. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 VF40 and VF39 has different wheels on the hot side with the VF39 wheel being larger. "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous1 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 11.0 is not rich for 91 octane, especially not ACN 91 octane. My target right now at redline with a FMIC is 10.8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Lets ask this question. How many people drive at WOT all the time and redline shift?? "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostsr20 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 11.0 is not rich for 91 octane, especially not ACN 91 octane. My target right now at redline with a FMIC is 10.8. Thats what i'm targeting on 93 octane. Better safe than sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDII Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 I understand now, thank you. i was under the impression that an 18g was more efficient than a vf39 = reasoning for my thought of 300hp. Will definately not be buying an 18g. The reason many members go 18g is because it's bolt on. The VF39 in an inverted set up and requires some modification for it it to work on our cars. Cost for cost... if you have a reasonable amount of technical skill and patience you can get your hands on a used VF39 for $300-$600 depending on condition, have the parts you need fabricated or do an STi swap for around the same cost as an 18g. But again, you will need to know what you are doing or labor will kill your wallet. A port and polish does the VF39 good. If you can find one that has been worked you're golden. Need forum help? Private Message legGTLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTWILLY Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 The reason many members go 18g is because it's bolt on. The VF39 in an inverted set up and requires some modification for it it to work on our cars. Cost for cost... if you have a reasonable amount of technical skill and patience you can get your hands on a used VF39 for $300-$600 depending on condition, have the parts you need fabricated or do an STi swap for around the same cost as an 18g. But again, you will need to know what you are doing or labor will kill your wallet. A port and polish does the VF39 good. If you can find one that has been worked you're golden. I understand and am aware of the different styling of the two turbos in relation to intercooler connections. I plan on putting a FMIC on my car anyway so I can use a wrx style. I just don't really know the differences in the vf series. My participation in this thread has been for mear informational purposes to learn. An FP green will be te smallest option I go for. Element Tuning's GT65 :wub:being the largest. Depends on the cash flow in the next year, and yes I am aware and am planning on building a motor if the second choice is the one I go with. The question still remains as to which motor to build though...3.0? or 2.5? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous1 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 I understand and am aware of the different styling of the two turbos in relation to intercooler connections. I plan on putting a FMIC on my car anyway so I can use a wrx style. I just don't really know the differences in the vf series. My participation in this thread has been for mear informational purposes to learn. An FP green will be te smallest option I go for. Element Tuning's GT65 :wub:being the largest. Depends on the cash flow in the next year, and yes I am aware and am planning on building a motor if the second choice is the one I go with. The question still remains as to which motor to build though...3.0? or 2.5? 2.5 unless you've got $$$$ to burn, even then I would opt for a stroker motor instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTWILLY Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 2.5 unless you've got $$$$ to burn, even then I would opt for a stroker motor instead. Something about the H6 keeps calling me, maybe just cuz not too many have done it but I would think that boost response would be better as well with 2 extra cylinders to push the turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 2.5 unless you've got $$$$ to burn, even then I would opt for a stroker motor instead. A stroker 4 over a 6 No one in this thread has a ******* clue! I say use smaller injectors but 2 per cylinder; sure its some custom work but its better! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattg Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 ^ thank goodness you're here to keep everyone in line... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Look its another troll from 0R3G0N...go figure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005garnetGT Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 damnit rclark, I can't keep up with all these avatar changes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Its the only way people will take me seriously Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous1 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 A stroker 4 over a 6 No one in this thread has a ******* clue! I say use smaller injectors but 2 per cylinder; sure its some custom work but its better! Only because I feel it would be more reliable. I just don't like the idea of building a motor for boost that was never intended to do so. Sure it can be done so sucessfully I just personally would rather not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 If you are building it built it to take boost Who says it needs a high compression ratio? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous1 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 If you are building it built it to take boost Who says it needs a high compression ratio? Yeah and we know all builds are created equal. Going with a H6 you are strotting on nearing unchartered grounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattg Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Look its another troll from 0R3G0N...go figure. the pot and kettle get no blacker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTWILLY Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Only because I feel it would be more reliable. I just don't like the idea of building a motor for boost that was never intended to do so. Sure it can be done so sucessfully I just personally would rather not. I have been wondering the same thing and need to figure out if the case will hold 600-700 hp. Everything else, crank on up, will be replaced Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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