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Tranny Blew at 57k


el3ment

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just for the sake of records and testimonials...

 

at 57k miles my TOB exploded. I had an aftermarket clutch assembly kit installed just so i wouldn't have to go through this whole process again (hopefully). when I took the car into the shop to have the work done I requested they save the original parts so i could have a visual of exactly what went wrong... The TOB was in 5 pieces! the clutch and flywheel both had a handful of hotspots that were about the size of a penny and not very dark in color meaning the clutch and flywheel would've lasted longer had the TOB not incurred EPIC failure... so one relatively inexpensive part (the TOB) leads to an entire clutch kit & flywheel replacement ($800) + labor ($450).

I fully understand that clutches and flywheels fail or rather wear out under misuse and typically the responsibility of the driver but how is it possibly the driver's fault when the TOBs are what is most commonly the source of the problem? quite obviously this is a particularly widespread issue.

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^^^Still waiting on SOA to acknowlege the wheel bearing troll and extend warranty repairs for that part so I'm not seeing them manning up on the TOB anytime soon. I'm nearing 61K and I find myself counting the moments before catostrophic failure.

I tell myself that an N/A Forester is just an STI without all the fluff like, power, handling, style, racing heritage, and curb appeal.

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just for the sake of records and testimonials...

 

at 57k miles my TOB exploded. I had an aftermarket clutch assembly kit installed just so i wouldn't have to go through this whole process again (hopefully). when I took the car into the shop to have the work done I requested they save the original parts so i could have a visual of exactly what went wrong... The TOB was in 5 pieces! the clutch and flywheel both had a handful of hotspots that were about the size of a penny and not very dark in color meaning the clutch and flywheel would've lasted longer had the TOB not incurred EPIC failure... so one relatively inexpensive part (the TOB) leads to an entire clutch kit & flywheel replacement ($800) + labor ($450).

I fully understand that clutches and flywheels fail or rather wear out under misuse and typically the responsibility of the driver but how is it possibly the driver's fault when the TOBs are what is most commonly the source of the problem? quite obviously this is a particularly widespread issue.

 

When you had your aftermarket clutch put in, did you replace TOB as well?

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When you had your aftermarket clutch put in, did you replace TOB as well?

 

i had no choice since the original was in 5 pieces. The ACT clutch kit along with other brands I looked at (although there aren't many options for the LGT) came with a replacement TOB

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i had no choice since the original was in 5 pieces. The ACT clutch kit along with other brands I looked at (although there aren't many options for the LGT) came with a replacement TOB

 

EDIT: never mind, I thought it was the aftermarket one that failed

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Here's what's needed to fix this. Note that the TSK2 is the Turbo-specific kit. Non-turbo transmissions are TSK1.

 

What if someone has the ACT clutch and flywheel? That's basically the 06 WRX setup. Would this kit work/fit regardless of LGT or 06 WRX type setups?

 

Thanks for posting pics of the kit by the way! I've been wondering what it has and what it looks like.

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What if someone has the ACT clutch and flywheel? That's basically the 06 WRX setup. Would this kit work/fit regardless of LGT or 06 WRX type setups?

 

Thanks for posting pics of the kit by the way! I've been wondering what it has and what it looks like.

 

I'm thinking it would work, but to be sure, contact PDM at the number listed on the box cover and ask. Post up in here what you find.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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I'm thinking it would work, but to be sure, contact PDM at the number listed on the box cover and ask. Post up in here what you find.

 

I called a couple times and got busy signals. I just went ahead and bought the kit. I'll be doing my clutch install hopefully in the near future, I'll let everyone know if it works with the ACT setup on our LGT's.

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I called a couple times and got busy signals. I just went ahead and bought the kit. I'll be doing my clutch install hopefully in the near future, I'll let everyone know if it works with the ACT setup on our LGT's.

 

Very interested in how this turns out. I'm replacing the stock TOB on my 98 LGT with the non-turbo kit and the 05 LGT will likely be in-line to get one someday as well. Really easy install for sure.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Very interested in how this turns out. I'm replacing the stock TOB on my 98 LGT with the non-turbo kit and the 05 LGT will likely be in-line to get one someday as well. Really easy install for sure.

 

Subie, do you know what a stealership "should" charge for a preventative install of a new TOB?

I tell myself that an N/A Forester is just an STI without all the fluff like, power, handling, style, racing heritage, and curb appeal.

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Subie, do you know what a stealership "should" charge for a preventative install of a new TOB?

 

Actually, no - but several on here, including Opie have mentioned 3-4 hours out and back in again. Once you've got the transmission out on the tranny lift, just slide the quill in place, set lock it down, lube it up and mount the TOB, then remount the transmission. Unless you're going to do something with the clutch itself, I'd think a decent tech could do this start to finish in 3 hours or less.

 

$400.00 would probably get it done, plus the $150 for the TranQuil.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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I called a couple times and got busy signals. I just went ahead and bought the kit. I'll be doing my clutch install hopefully in the near future, I'll let everyone know if it works with the ACT setup on our LGT's.

 

Did you end up ordering it direct from PDM?

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Actually, no - but several on here, including Opie have mentioned 3-4 hours out and back in again. Once you've got the transmission out on the tranny lift, just slide the quill in place, set lock it down, lube it up and mount the TOB, then remount the transmission. Unless you're going to do something with the clutch itself, I'd think a decent tech could do this start to finish in 3 hours or less.

 

$400.00 would probably get it done, plus the $150 for the TranQuil.

 

Would it take that much longer to do a clutch at the same time?

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Actually, no - but several on here, including Opie have mentioned 3-4 hours out and back in again. Once you've got the transmission out on the tranny lift, just slide the quill in place, set lock it down, lube it up and mount the TOB, then remount the transmission. Unless you're going to do something with the clutch itself, I'd think a decent tech could do this start to finish in 3 hours or less.

 

$400.00 would probably get it done, plus the $150 for the TranQuil.

 

Forgive my mechanical ignorance, but is a new TOB part of this TranQuil kit you show?

I tell myself that an N/A Forester is just an STI without all the fluff like, power, handling, style, racing heritage, and curb appeal.

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Forgive my mechanical ignorance, but is a new TOB part of this TranQuil kit you show?

 

Yes - It's a heavy-duty sealed bearing unit that is designed to work with the "quil" part, and is all set up with the clutch fork connections, just like the stock TOB. The major difference is that this will NOT torque sideways during the clutch-in/-out process because the 304 SS quil keeps it perfectly lined up with the PP

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Would it take that much longer to do a clutch at the same time?

 

30-45 minutes more to pull the PP and clutch disk and reinstall. If the FW needs dressed, then that will take additional time.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Yes - It's a heavy-duty sealed bearing unit that is designed to work with the "quil" part, and is all set up with the clutch fork connections, just like the stock TOB. The major difference is that this will NOT torque sideways during the clutch-in/-out process because the 304 SS quil keeps it perfectly lined up with the PP

 

Got it, thank you.

I tell myself that an N/A Forester is just an STI without all the fluff like, power, handling, style, racing heritage, and curb appeal.

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My tranny (I think) started making noise the other day. The noise is a whinning noise that only occurs in first gear while in gear. It is most noticable when I downshift from 2nd to 1st or slowing down in 1st gear. The noise is present with the clutch in and engaged.

 

Any thoughts?

 

2008 LGT 10K miles.

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My tranny (I think) started making noise the other day. The noise is a whinning noise that only occurs in first gear while in gear. It is most noticable when I downshift from 2nd to 1st or slowing down in 1st gear. The noise is present with the clutch in and engaged.

 

Any thoughts?

 

2008 LGT 10K miles.

 

Fluid levels okay? Been run hard and put away wet? Some noise is normal for the 5MT, particularly in 1st and 2nd which are straight cut gears. Reverse is probably a bit louder for the same reason, but the noise should be essentially the same. Gearset picture here:

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Fluid levels okay? Been run hard and put away wet? Some noise is normal for the 5MT, particularly in 1st and 2nd which are straight cut gears. Reverse is probably a bit louder for the same reason, but the noise should be essentially the same. Gearset picture here:

 

Havn't checked the fluid level yet. It happened right after doing a couple hard launches.

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My apologies - 1st and 2nd in our trannies are not "straight-cut", rather they are "straighter" cut with 3-5 being completely helical cut. The picture in the post above is of a replacement set.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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