smokin.legacy Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 I heard the factory donut gasket can be reused can anything else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkness of Death Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 i dont know. i've been told that you use gaskets only once...but i guess as long as they dont leak..then they would be ok... any one with a solid answer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 donut ok to re-ues sometimes others, no search My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilT Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 UP, no DP and back will be ok as long as you clean the faces and the flanges. Double Award Winning Legacy GT Wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tytek Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 I have reused mine a few times with no issues... but new ones are a cheap insurance against having to take all that crap off again. Oh, and stick with the OEM ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous1 Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 I also have removed and reused mine multiple times with no issuses. From the manifolds back.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edkwon Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 in a pinch you can reuse the stock DP donut gasket if you have no choice, but if youre trying to save $, then dont be cheap and just shell out the $20-30 for a new donut gasket if you change exhausts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnAWD Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 If you are swapping exhaust plumbing, I'd pony up for new gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin.legacy Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 No i think i have an exhaust leak near at the up to headers connection....i thinki need to double up on the gasket because i believe there might be to much of a gap....i didnt want to have to buy 2 new header to up pipe gaskets and 2 new header to bloack gaskets....but if i need to so be it i just thought id ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradiso Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 I had an exhaust leak in the same place (header to UP). I just used a single OEM gasket on the UP and it is working fine. Just get the nuts on the header to block studs on by hand then torque down the UP nuts then torque down the block nuts. I probably could have reused the header to block gaskets but didn't. (also OEM). For an extra $25, why take the chance on having to pull all that shit off again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxerGT2.5 Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Get new gaskets, if you can afford the plumbing, you can scrap together the $60. Unless you like doing the same job over and over again. OBAMA......One Big Ass Mistake America! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin.legacy Posted January 15, 2008 Author Share Posted January 15, 2008 Ehh yea....thing is i think the leak is at the up pipe to the header.....I think I need to double up the gasket to make up for the difference in the pipe. I am guessing this only because i tightened the Sh&t out of it when I installed it and it still leaks. I used all new oem gaskets originally. The other bad part is you need to remove the headers from the block to change the gasket at the Up pipe to header so that means i need like 4 new (oem) gaskets. Ouch......thats why im asking....I guess I'll do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostjunkie Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Do not "tighten the sh&t" out of any of the exhaust connections. Torque specs exist for a reason. Going vastly beyond them makes matters worse, not better. The sequence in which you torque it all down also helps. Some like top to bottom, I like bottom to top. Get everything is place and all the nuts finger tight. Then start by torquing down the manifolds to heads first, then the uppipe to manifold, then the uppipe to the 2 support brackets and lastly the 3 nuts that hold the turbo to the uppipe. Extremely problematics junctions (usually the uppipe to manifold) can sometimes be cured by using 2 stacked OEM gaskets, but really the only case in which that should be needed is if the flanges are warped (usually from previous overtorquing). As for reusing gaskets, the donut gasket is very reusable, practically indefinitely. If you are cheap then the manifolds to heads are also reusable as is the DP to turbo gasket. IMHO it is just silly to not use new OEM gaskets on the uppipe. The uppipe to manifold is the most prone to leaking and the turbo to uppipe is a relative pain to get at, so there is little to no sense in not using new ones each time. They are all multi-layer steel gaskets, which are technically designed to be crushed only once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Do not "tighten the sh&t" out of any of the exhaust connections. Torque specs exist for a reason. Going vastly beyond them makes matters worse, not better. The sequence in which you torque it all down also helps. Some like top to bottom, I like bottom to top. Get everything is place and all the nuts finger tight. Then start by torquing down the manifolds to heads first, then the uppipe to manifold, then the uppipe to the 2 support brackets and lastly the 3 nuts that hold the turbo to the uppipe. Extremely problematics junctions (usually the uppipe to manifold) can sometimes be cured by using 2 stacked OEM gaskets, but really the only case in which that should be needed is if the flanges are warped (usually from previous overtorquing). As for reusing gaskets, the donut gasket is very reusable, practically indefinitely. If you are cheap then the manifolds to heads are also reusable as is the DP to turbo gasket. IMHO it is just silly to not use new OEM gaskets on the uppipe. The uppipe to manifold is the most prone to leaking and the turbo to uppipe is a relative pain to get at, so there is little to no sense in not using new ones each time. They are all multi-layer steel gaskets, which are technically designed to be crushed only once. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgray Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Those all cooper gasket kits that are avaialable, i wanna say from crucial perhaps, are they worth it? Im gonna go TBE and UP,... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Those all cooper gasket kits that are avaialable, i wanna say from crucial perhaps, are they worth it? Im gonna go TBE and UP,... **** no! Stay far far away from that snake oil. Also +1 to BJ as much as I hate to say that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin.legacy Posted January 16, 2008 Author Share Posted January 16, 2008 Do not "tighten the sh&t" out of any of the exhaust connections. Torque specs exist for a reason. Going vastly beyond them makes matters worse, not better. The sequence in which you torque it all down also helps. Some like top to bottom, I like bottom to top. Get everything is place and all the nuts finger tight. Then start by torquing down the manifolds to heads first, then the uppipe to manifold, then the uppipe to the 2 support brackets and lastly the 3 nuts that hold the turbo to the uppipe. Extremely problematics junctions (usually the uppipe to manifold) can sometimes be cured by using 2 stacked OEM gaskets, but really the only case in which that should be needed is if the flanges are warped (usually from previous overtorquing). As for reusing gaskets, the donut gasket is very reusable, practically indefinitely. If you are cheap then the manifolds to heads are also reusable as is the DP to turbo gasket. IMHO it is just silly to not use new OEM gaskets on the uppipe. The uppipe to manifold is the most prone to leaking and the turbo to uppipe is a relative pain to get at, so there is little to no sense in not using new ones each time. They are all multi-layer steel gaskets, which are technically designed to be crushed only once. Thats exactly what I have done and was planning to do. The over tightening thing yeah you may be right but with all new piping i didnt think owm torque specs applied any more and its extrememly hard to get a torque wrench in those areas. Obviously I can see over tightening the block to manifold bolts being an issue but i never thought there would be one with the manifold to up pipe. Anyways question answered thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 All copper gaskets do this: http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1021.jpg http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/IMG_1024.jpg My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awdG35killer Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 i vote NO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbacis Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 I used Crucial copper gaskets on my UP. No leaks, no problems, ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spray Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 Stick with oem http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/561/imgp0097kh9.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbacis Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 I think I need to join the "say no to copper gaskets" camp. While I did not have any leaks, the copper gasket on my UP was split in two when I took the pipe off this weekend. I used Crucial copper gaskets on my UP. No leaks, no problems, ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gianspi Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 ^^ Those MR gaskets are no fair. With all seriousness, I think they are made of newspaper. enough zip ties and duct tape will fix anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spray Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 X2, I'm seriously pissed off I didn't get a warning about them beforehand. Ended up costing me $100 down the road for new OEM gaskets and then labour to re-install them. Failed after 3 months... ^^ Those MR gaskets are no fair. With all seriousness, I think they are made of newspaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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