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Procedures for changing battery?


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On a 2005 Legacy GTL wagon does the OEM battery lift straight out? It looks like the front RH corner of the bodywork interferes.

 

Have a Optima type 35 coming on friday and am hoping to change it myself if it isn't too cold out. Suggestions and shortcuts eagerly accepted.

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as your looking at it just slide it to the left like an inch and comes straight out. it just looks complicated thats all.

History does not entrust the care of freedom to the weak or timid

People sleep peacefully at night cause rough men stand ready to do violence on there behalf

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i had to use rubeer gloves to get mine out. it was leaking and fowaming on the posi term that was a nice clean up and dont know why

History does not entrust the care of freedom to the weak or timid

People sleep peacefully at night cause rough men stand ready to do violence on there behalf

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Are you drunk?

 

 

no i just type faster than i think and never use spell chek cause im at work most of the time and cant downlaod the spellchecker cause this is a goverment owned computer

History does not entrust the care of freedom to the weak or timid

People sleep peacefully at night cause rough men stand ready to do violence on there behalf

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Just a heads up...be sure to hook the positive & negative cables up to the Optima correctly, IIRC the Optima 35 posts are reversed compared to the factory battery.

No, they are on the same sides of the battery as OEM. The positive cable would never reach to the far side of the battery.

IMG_3135.JPG.0851f61c37348299deaa996f8a2ce8f8.JPG

It is still ugly.
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If you didnt know, disconnect power (red) then the negative cable(black).

 

This is a good way to accidentally short the positive cable to chassis ground, and possibly spot weld it to the chassis!

 

Disconnect the negative cable first, then the positive cable. Electrons (i.e. power) are generated at the negative terminal, not the positive terminal.

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This is a good way to accidentally short the positive cable to chassis ground, and possibly spot weld it to the chassis!

 

Disconnect the negative cable first, then the positive cable. Electrons (i.e. power) are generated at the negative terminal, not the positive terminal.

 

I stand corrected, wow talk about getting the fundamentals wrong on the simplist of tasks. I never had a problem but after seaching it didn't take long to realize I'm wrong.

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ahh, brings back memories... working with my dad on his '69 buick electra, removing the battery positive terminal connection and touching the radiator in the process. It instantly welded a nice hole in the radiator. Boy was he pissed.
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technically the optima is opposite but you just flip it making the terminals farther away but on the correct sides. there was enough slack for me.

 

side note i will never buy another optima red top again. the latest one blew 2 weeks ago in less than 2 yrs with about 14k on it and the previous one in other vehicle same thing. at first i thought it was a fluke. only optima that i had good luck with was a deep cycle blue or yellow.

 

cliff notes f' optima starter batteries they suck. i just picked up a die hard platinum sealed batt with 4 yr warranty. albiet $180 later, but you can damn sure bet if anything happens to it i can easily have it replaced under warranty. im sick of buying batteries.

 

chick at sears said they stopped carrying optima batteries because of to many bad ones

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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side note i will never buy another optima red top again. the latest one blew 2 weeks ago in less than 2 yrs with about 14k on it and the previous one in other vehicle same thing. at first i thought it was a fluke. only optima that i had good luck with was a deep cycle blue or yellow.

 

I was looking to get one for my Jeep this winter and the parts store dude didn't want to sell one to me. I thought they were supposed to be the shiznit, but he said that they haven't ever had one last longer than 3 months and most were returned within a couple weeks. I usually just get the die-hard too.

Let's kick this pig!
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I was planning on getting an optima yellow top, I probably use more power when the car is turned off than anybody on here to play my ps2. If I get to my destination early I don't like sitting at idle for a more than a couple of minutes, so I'll turn the car off and go off battery power. I've only had my battery die twice and I've found I can run my amp, ps2, deck, and seat heaters for about a 1/2 hour with the car turned off if the battery is charged up. Would getting a yellow top extend that time window I have to use my car's power when its turned off or would it not be significant enough to justify spending the money?
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I was planning on getting an optima yellow top, I probably use more power when the car is turned off than anybody on here to play my ps2. If I get to my destination early I don't like sitting at idle for a more than a couple of minutes, so I'll turn the car off and go off battery power. I've only had my battery die twice and I've found I can run my amp, ps2, deck, and seat heaters for about a 1/2 hour with the car turned off if the battery is charged up. Would getting a yellow top extend that time window I have to use my car's power when its turned off or would it not be significant enough to justify spending the money?

I have a buddy that runs about 8000 watts(3-15" subs, 4-6x9's, 4-5" door and tweeters) of stereo along with DVD, flat panels and everything else in his Probe GT and he ended up getting two dry cells to put in the hatch as back ups. He has it set up so he can run only off the dry cells when the car is at shows or competitions. He also installed some digital voltage meters to show the charge of the dry cells. His car sucks so much juice it has to be plugged in when it's parked overnight or all the batteries will be dead in the morning.

powersuppy3.jpg.cdb0fc91b557122168358f8308bb94e6.jpg

Let's kick this pig!
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I have a buddy that runs about 8000 watts(3-15" subs, 4-6x9's, 4-5" door and tweeters) of stereo along with DVD, flat panels and everything else in his Probe GT and he ended up getting two dry cells to put in the hatch as back ups. He has it set up so he can run only off the dry cells when the car is at shows or competitions. He also installed some digital voltage meters to show the charge of the dry cells. His car sucks so much juice it has to be plugged in when it's parked overnight or all the batteries will be dead in the morning.

 

That is a way hardcore setup, how does his ride sounds? A voltage meter would be ideal, I used to have a power inverter that was awesome in my last car. It would cut power to my ps2 about 2 minutes before my battery would die. When the ps2 would cut power I would know to start the car immediately. The power inverter I have now, doesn't do that, but it fits in my arm rest as opposed to being out in the open or clunking under the seat.

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