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Of course! Not just going engine mods, all of it. tires, wheels, roll bars, springs/struts, bushings...

 

Not going more power without suspension changes. Although it would be fairly amusing to drive...for about five minutes.

 

Only reason I did the braces so early was to keep things as tight as they could be while the car was new, knowing that I'd be hitting washboard roads in the years ahead.

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Haven't asked for suggestions...yet. I'm clear on some stuff less so on others, will be a later post.

 

Happy with the brakes. Bobcat pads, stainless steel coated lines, and synth fluid really firmed up the brake feel. There's still that initial GM pedal travel which would be nice to get rid of, but at least the brake feel is better. Do get a noise once in a while, but not a big deal to me. Hmm, isn't there a brace out somewhere for the master cylinder? Or is that only for STIs?

 

As far as handling goes looking at three options, two of which are fairly new to the scene. Megan Outback coilovers, Bilstein HD combined with some flavor spring that retains stock ride height as much as possible, or LGT JDM wagon takeoffs, still working on what revisions and models mean what in terms of stiffness.

 

I need ground clearance for dirt roads and winter, and the roads are fairly rough around here. Want something that hits that really tough blend of decent ride with good handling, something the Germans seem to be the best at.

 

Really rough list:

 

above-mentioned suspension bits

some flavor of F+R roll bars that keep the car in slight understeer/neutral level (along with rear bracket reinforcement and endlinks)

FMIC that retains bumper beam, don't care about fogs (avo?)

Some flavor 20G/Avo 4xx-sized turbo

DW 740 injectors

fuel pump...(avo?)

catted aftermarket midpipe (crucial) and X02 catback (hopefully resonator version out soon)

headers, something that keeps as much ground clearance as possible (coated crosspipe and ported manifolds might be only option)

shifter bushings

steering rack bushings

group N transmission mount

poly LCA bushings

intake, AEM CAI seems fairly popular

TGV deletes

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  • 3 weeks later...

Cool. I'ver never had a post fixored! :lol: :lol:

 

While my wagon is totally stock on the performance front, I would like to make some "upgrades".

 

Wuki, your wagon is an inspiration for all the wagonista's out there.

 

Oh yeah, and I don't think bosco lives by his words. ;)

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i just trying to save you untold amounts of money thats all. :lol: bosco

I thought that might be the case! :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

It all looks like so much fun though! I'm liking 250hp, won't I like 300 more? And if 300 is fun, isn't 400 that much mo' betta? :spin::lol: :lol: ;)

 

That's how we men are isn't it. If something is good. Isn't more always better? :confused:

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The only thing that keeps it in perspective for me is having a truck to drive during the week. Even though it's a Hemi (and you know I've modded it), it makes the car feel really good when I get behind the wheel.

 

I hope to be able to give the car a nice round of mods in a month or two. A FMIC and FP Green, along with the required supporting mods, should make it a lot of fun to drive. I've owned the car three years this month and it's time for it to get a little quicker.

 

My truck has mods planned for it as well. If I change the cam, torque converter, and add headers, it should run low 14s which is pretty good for a quad cab 4x4 :D

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  • 2 months later...

So it begins!

 

Mix of what I've read here, NASIOC and shop advice has lead me to the following. I want a daily driver with around 350AWHP. Why 350? Hopefully keep the engine and transmission internals happy, also largest reasonable turbo that's IWG, and decent spool...that's why! Also looking to sharpen up feedback and tighten up the suspension as well.

 

Cost isn't as much of an object versus ease of install, meeting my specifications, and most importantly, longevity of parts. The below setup will be on car for at least 5+ years, will be daily driven, and will be used for a half dozen various auto events a year. I don't want to deal with shoddy bits failing/causing failures 6 months down the road. Yes, I know there's always a gamble of increasing power, especially at this level. However, I don't want the parts themselves being the reason because of failure (headers asplode)/causing little headache-type issues (CEL thrown steady state cruising rear O2 sensor location in downpipe).

 

build complete, here is what is on the car:

 

FP 20G 8cm 3" inlet turbo ~$1200

Purchased

Shop likes FP, 3" inlet will help with spool, 8cm housing will help with high-end. Seems to be a good turbo for pump-only fuel and my target of around 350awhp

 

DW 740cc injectors ~$500 and a $160 injector return refund

I think every review I've seen has had good things to say about these injectors, will match up with the turbo nicely. Injector exchange to boot.

 

MadDad headers (coated) ~$700

Ah yes, aftermarket exhaust headers. So many stories about cracking/not making that much more power/noise. All that is said and done, I want the power they provide. The MadDad's seem to be the best of the bunch in terms of no cracking, 3 bolt uppipe to keep that pesky connection sealed tight, and are offered with an inside and outside coating.

 

Perrin 3" turbo inlet pipe $~275

Intake manifold coming off anyway, making this 3" pipe install possible. Hose routing an issue? Any advice appreciated...

 

AVO fuel pump (complete) $599, minus the $250 exchange/maybe just $300 pump. Seems to be a fairly easy install.

Easy way to go, with core exchange. Heard nothing but good things about the AVO pump option.

 

JDM TGV deletes ~$199

Frees up a bit of power, allows the 3" inlet

 

SuperPro LCA bushings (standard) ~$125

Purchased

I don't like the Camry feedback inputs I get from the LGT, from what I've read here these LCA bushings while not magic, help a lot in getting the LGT to feel more like a performance car.

 

Group N transmission mount ~$65

The engine/transmission mounts on my car are loosening up after 3 years. Getting the ol' stick moving around when getting hard on/off the throttle.

 

Front and rear shifter bushings ~$30

Purchased

Not set on brand, but they are fairly simple pieces so not too worried in deciding which company to go with. As above, I want to sharpen up the response/feel of the LGT, these bushings will do that for the shifter. Don't care about shifter length or throws.

 

AVO FMIC $1300

Expensive, but able to keep fogs (not so important, but kinda neat) and seems to be engineered well, both in components and fitment (notch around stock battery tray for example). Will need to clock WRX-style turbo and maybe new actuator mount to work (a boo).

 

 

Suspension Bilstein wagon JDM SpecB Rev A takeoffsm everything included $700-$800

Purchased

I want stock ride-height and stock longevity

 

Gauges (boost and oil pressure) Prosport ~$180for gauges/hardware/pod

Would like to go with cubby pod that holds two 52mm gauges and can still close the door, interior sleeper! I have more research to do here in terms of what to choose, so I really shouldn't be asking for advice yet, but I'll take any. ;)

 

 

 

BCS

Prodrive

Purchased

Lots of folks like to go aftermarket. Is it required for my setup? From my limited understanding, an aftermarket electronic unit makes it a bit easier to hold target boost levels, get to it more quickly, and keeps the car from overboosting when target boost is hit. Correct?

 

Intake AVO

AVO's CAI seems to be a little shorter than other CAIs, assume it works with the AVO FMIC, and is rumored to drop MAF readings by 10%, which should be enough.

 

one-step colder plugs

no clue what brand yet, figure shop has a favorite they use. update: NGK BKR7EIX

 

3" Catted Downpipe Cobb

Some folks seem to have had install issues, others haven't. Not too worried since if it only requires a little heating/bending, might be the way I go since there is no need to modify to fit a flanged 3" midpipe to it.

 

 

Clutch and Flywheel

ACT 05+ Legacy GT Street Disk Clutch Kit ~$700

Edited by Beanboy
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Gauges: Boost and EGT

BCS: Prodrive FTW, I've had nothing but good experiences on all of my Subarus as well as my friends' cars with this piece.

Spark Plugs: NGK BKR7EIX

 

Boost is a definite according to everybody, but EGT over oil pressure you say? Hmm, you can stuff 3, what, 40mm gauges in the cubby area?

 

How about boost/oil pressure and a knock light?

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My third gauge would be Oil Pressure. You might also want to look into the Defi Link Display, you can have multiple aspects of monitoring with this system. All you have to buy is the individual sensors for the things that you want to monitor. I have a Spec.B so I dont have the cubby but I'm pretty sure that the Defi Link Display will fit in there.

 

http://www.defi-shop.com/product/dp/dp_top.html

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