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Striped out Turbo Studs


TommyG63

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while getting my clutch replaced i decided to have the shop try and fix my exhaust leak somewhere between the up pipe and headers. in the process of not fixing the leak the mechanic/s totally striped out one of the 2 studs coming from my turbo to downpipe. i took it to the dealership to ask if they could fix it and they said to go to a meineke, and they could fix the leak and the striped stud problem. however, today when i took it there they said they could not get the stud out and didn't want to even touch the car anymore, leak nor striped stud. so i am wondering for anyone out there. is this a serious problem or is the dealership and meineke mechanics just being lazy and jerking me around because i am a kid. All i really want is the exhaust leak sealed, and the stud replaced, at just about any neccisary cost at this point. ANY suggestions are greatly appriciated
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A Subaru specific performance shop would know immediately what to do in a situation like this. It's not unheard of to have a stud strip out. In a very worst case scenario, they can just remove the turbo to get at the stud.

 

BTW, there are 3 studs coming off the turbo to the downpipe.

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Two words "Vise Grips". I totally chewed a stud up on my Factory UP when trying to remove it to put the old studs in the new UP. I then went to the parts store and found new studs in the HELP products section. I think they were GM header studs that matched in size and thread pitch.
Let's kick this pig!
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thanks for all the input. the problem with having the place that messed it up do it is that they claim to have 'not even touched that part of the exhaust.' then was stupid enough to continue by saying 'yea the mechanic was saying something that he saw some missing bolts on your exhaust system.' good thing they let me know right? anyhow, after talking to some friends i found, what i was told to be the man with exhausts. so im going to see what this guy says. shouldnt be a problem
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  • 2 weeks later...
so no one wants to touch my striped out stud. i dont really feel like getting into argueing over it with the guys who did it in the first place, nor do i really want them to touch my car again. so i have decided to go about doing it myself, i think. any suggestions on the procedure, one place said they could do it but they would have to take out the turbo and drill it out. i really dont want to take the turbo out but will if needed. any help or links to someher with some help would be awesome.
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by the way, its the stud coming out from the turbo to the down. which i dont believe are as easy to come out as the ones coming from the up pipe. are they both held in the same way and the turbo one is just tighter in there? or is the turbo one pressed?
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understandably you don't want them to touch the car, but talk to their service manager, and if he refuses to talk to you about the issue, go above him. go as high as it goes to get the issue taken care of. you shouldn't have to shell out more money of your own pocket and time to have it taken care of. but you could cut it off, use an easy out or redrill and tap it for a different stud (probably easier?), any way you do it, the easiest way will be to take the turbo out, and if the pipes are already disconnected from it, its just draining the oil and coolant and it pops off.
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yea it wasn't a dealer who messed with it rather a transmission shop. i went through the owner to get the work done, and when i went back to tell him the bolts were threaded. he claimed they didn't go near those bolts. also, after talking to my friend about it i found out his dad worked at the same shop (not a mechanic, i believe on the paperwork side of things) and he had his dad talk to the owner, and he still didnt seem to care much about it. i was told by a guy at meineke to call the attorney general's office of consumer protection or something like that and they will help get the problem resolved if i have a decent case. i just kind of want to best solution with minimal hassle, even if it is me and my friend getting under the hood ourselves.
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I think even if some of the treads are stripped it doesn't mean all of them are. Why not try to loosen the all the bolts and add a liquid gasket sealant on both sides of the gasket and then tighten all the bolts down. Once you do that you can just purchase more bolts and add them on top of the other ones, if you torque them down enough it should hold.... anyways just a thought.
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sounds like a combo of air tools and vise grips or channel locks FTL. spray a ton of pb blaster on it, let it sit for a while, then spray some more (on the part still threaded in both times) and if there arent threads left then try a pair of vise grips? if there are threads, then take 2 nuts screw them on tight against each other, and try to back off the one closest to the flange. try some heat possibly, although i normally don't have luck with this. if you dont have easy outs, or the ability to chop it off and retap, then maybe try drilling through the bolt with a bit big enough for a small nail, sticking a nail through and trying to turn it that way (like when you stick a screwdriver in a stuck on oil filter). i think thats about it for my suggestions for now :lol:
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belt grips work wonders on these..I had to take all of the ones out of mold turbo and swap them to my new one
Two words "Vise Grips". I totally chewed a stud up on my Factory UP when trying to remove it to put the old studs in the new UP. I then went to the parts store and found new studs in the HELP products section. I think they were GM header studs that matched in size and thread pitch.
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i think what we decided to go with was removing the hot end of the turbo taking it to a local machine shop and having them drill out the stud then put a new one back in. from talking to another member this doesnt seem like it will be too painful of a process
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  • 3 weeks later...
one thing to keep in mind when extracting a stud with heat (at least the first time you do the job) is that it takes way more heat than you would expect or be comfortable with. for most of the fasteners I've had to extract with heat, glowing dull red was the minimum.... mind you, I am a lightweight.
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one thing to keep in mind when extracting a stud with heat (at least the first time you do the job) is that it takes way more heat than you would expect or be comfortable with. for most of the fasteners I've had to extract with heat, glowing dull red was the minimum.... mind you, I am a lightweight.

 

 

i would actually say almost the opposite. i would say it doesn't take much. but maybe still more then you would think:lol:

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