TSiWRX Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 Typically, DP bolts. Whether you have to re-tighten is a variable issue - I actually had NONE of my bolts really come loose...maybe just one, but it was not by much at all. A heat cycle or two should do it, and honestly, I'd feel better checking them sooner rather than later - and then double-checking a few more days down the line. I checked mine one day later, after about 20 cumulative miles (and 4 heat cycles) - and then again that next weekend. <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Yeah... lots of the bolts you can't get to unless you take stuff off.. so it wouldn't make sense to take things completely off to get to other bolts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G.T.Subie Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Just bought a similar UP, just wondering what type of resistor and where does it go exactly? Thanks. Denial is your best friend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Just bought a similar UP, just wondering what type of resistor and where does it go exactly? Thanks. Best bet is to get the AP... little more money than the resistor fix but well worth it!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G.T.Subie Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 I know, and that of course would be great. But I don't have 650 to spend on an AP. Denial is your best friend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Just bought a similar UP, just wondering what type of resistor and where does it go exactly? Thanks. 2.2 Kohm, 1/2W. Alternatively, the 1/4W will work, too, if you can find any 1/2 Watt'ers, but there have been past reports from the WRX crowd that the 1/4s burn out sometimes. Bend the resistor into a "U" shape. Trace the UP EGT wiring to its proximal end-point, unhook that clip. Insert one end of the "U" into each side of the now-exposed female socket. You'll likely need to trim off a little extra length on the resistor's ends to do so. Tape in-place securely. <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G.T.Subie Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Great ,Thanks. Denial is your best friend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 NP. They're cheap, too - pack of 5 from RadioShack is only a few bucks. <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2k6legGt Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 damn after reading this i have an uppipe leak.....anyone wanna fix it for me ???? lol its soo cold and i had a warm shop to work in for 1 day now i have to do it over in the cold!!! Anyway to for sure check if it is at the tubro or the exhaust manifold?? (dont wanna break anymore clips on the underbody cover do you think its ok to drive for a week like this being i will be workin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted December 4, 2006 Author Share Posted December 4, 2006 Yeah... IMHO you'll be fine.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckzul Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 It is important which bolts you tighten first? Do you tighten the UP to exhaust manifold first, or the UP to turbo bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuned200 Posted December 9, 2006 Share Posted December 9, 2006 mccorry, pm me about the resistor fix. also, i may contact you about coming up for an install, up+down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted December 9, 2006 Author Share Posted December 9, 2006 It is important which bolts you tighten first? Do you tighten the UP to exhaust manifold first, or the UP to turbo bolts? Yep... each vender has their own order. I have found that the following works best for me. I assemble everything finger tight. Then I torque the uppipe to turbo flange. (I want this one square since it is the hardest to fix later). Then I torque the manifold to head flanges. Then I torque the cross over pipe. And finally... I torque the lower uppipe flange. When this is all in and tight... then I put in the downpipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted December 9, 2006 Author Share Posted December 9, 2006 mccorry, pm me about the resistor fix. also, i may contact you about coming up for an install, up+down. The resistor fix is pretty easy. You need a 2.2k ohm resistor (IIRC). Bend the resistor into a U-shape and trim the leads to around 1/2". Then just push it into the EGT plug (the car side... not the probe side, which you are removing ) and put some black electrical tape over it to hold it in and keep the water out. As far as an up/down install... it will be tough to get it this time of the year. Are you in a rush or can you wait until after the holidays? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted December 9, 2006 Share Posted December 9, 2006 AP Stage II Flash Cobb UP Cobb DP COBB STS Borla CBE Running 8-9 months now 15,000 miles. Best mods I've ever done to any car ever!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mongo Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 I'm hoping to do the up/dp this weekend(sat.). If anyone in the Buffalo NY area wants to stop by and help feel free:lol:!!!!!!! By the way, does anyone know how the stage 2 cobb map will run if i dont do the CBE? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted July 11, 2007 Author Share Posted July 11, 2007 It will run fine. I've been stage 2 for a long time with the stock cat back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 hey mongo...welcome to the forum!!! Have fun with your new money pit.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Sounds: What about a moderately loud "sshhhhhhh" sound when you step on it (not a whistle)? What's weird is it seems to come and go, sometimes more prevalent when cold. It's probably in my head, but seems to lose a little power when loud, better when quiet. The whole "3rd gear pull from 50 to 80 mph" is a great poor man's dyno check (gotta account for temp and humidity...) I need to do to see if it's changed. I am about a half second slower, but a little warmer out than last I measured a few months back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VtspecB Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 I'm hoping to do the up/dp this weekend(sat.). If anyone in the Buffalo NY area wants to stop by and help feel free:lol:!!!!!!! By the way, does anyone know how the stage 2 cobb map will run if i dont do the CBE? NP, I asked Christian at Cobb if that was feasible after putting on just the DP and he said that the stock CBE is free flowing enough to enjoy the gains from stage 2. Enjoy! my vBGarage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mongo Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Cool, its being delivered today and going on sat.!!! my buddy has an STI and has done this on a WRX before so that should help. Thanks for the welcome! I'm usually wrenching on my mr2 spyder, now thats a real PITA!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskforcefreddy Posted August 5, 2007 Share Posted August 5, 2007 I know this thread has been around forever but here's my $.02. Had the same loud turbo noise, only when in boost. Checked and rechecked everthing from the manifold on back about 5-6 times and nothing ever seemed to work so finally I just said #@%* it and left it. The car never seemed to lose power and using AP, never saw a reduction in boost (always went into 14-15 PSI range). In addition, I never had a CEL and prior to deploying, my dad drove it 2200 miles back to WI and had no issues. I will say that the noise is borderline obnoxious and sounds like a loud fluttering whistle. I'm attributing this as wastegate flutter. Am I all messed up with this diagnosis? BTW, heat shields never went back on and the UP and DP are both from Cobb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted August 5, 2007 Author Share Posted August 5, 2007 Is it a mild, rapid... whoosh-whoosh-whoosh-whoosh.... Or does it sound like a tea kettle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskforcefreddy Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 Definately more like a high pitched, rapidly fluctuating tea kettle... good analogy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted August 6, 2007 Author Share Posted August 6, 2007 Really loud? If so....Uppipe gasket... probably the lower one. The wastegate flutter noise is really subtle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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