Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

2007 Spec B Radio information thread


Deer Killer

Recommended Posts

thanks for the info... where in NC is Brasstown?

 

Here is my work on installing a 07 head unit into a 06 Outback wagon to access the Aux input connector:

 

Purchased the 07 Head unit on Ebay (P-204-UN, single CD, Manual AC, the best $50.00 I ever spent).

 

After reviewing all the post about the pinout of the 07 vs 06's small 8 pin connector, and since I have manual AC. I determind that the existing connector plugged into the existing 8 pin connector of the 06 head unit would not be needed. The car does not have a sub woofer.

 

I determined that the pin to pin spacing was the same as the Molex 0.1" space header plug (will edit with a part nunber next wk) and that the row to row spacing would allow two of these connectors to be stacked one on top of the other. I felt that covering all eight exposed pins was better than just getting the 4 pins necessary for the Aux input.

 

I took two 4-pin molex header plugs placing then one on top of the other to make a 8 pin plug. I then took a standard 6ft long 1/8" male to male stereo audio cable and cut one end off to get to the three wires. Crimped the three wires to molex pins (p/n next wk) and inserted them into the correct location (can be found on other post). Pin 1 (Left Audio), Pin 2 (Right Audio, Pin 5 (Audio Gnd). A 4th wire goes into Pin 6 (Aux enable) which is pulled to chassis thru one of the small screws of the head unit. I then put shrink sleeve arount the body of the connector to hold it together, but that is not necessary.

 

Next I took an sharp knife and cut down the two ridges that the 8 pin connector of the head unit has. The two ridges are there to help the orginal connecor slide in easy. They need to be removed to allow the made up connector to slide in.

 

I tested this set on the bench and the aux i input worked. I installed the head unit this weekend (orginal 8 pin connector in harness not installed), routed the aux input cable to exit the center console on the passanger side, leaving approx 2 ft of wire. Everything works great.

 

I can e-mail photos if you PM me your e-mail address.:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 517
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Jeromes, thanks for all the info. Since you have manual climate controls,

I'm confused why you didn't just put an after-market head-unit in, the

conventional wisdom being that there are kits that do a nice job of

retrofitting standard-DIN head-units into your car.

 

After reviewing all the post about the pinout of the 07 vs 06's small 8 pin connector, and since I have manual AC. I determind that the existing connector plugged into the existing 8 pin connector of the 06 head unit would not be needed.

I'm pretty sure for us auto-climate control folks (yes, the 2.5i LIMITED

DOES have the automatic), that we must re-use the connector, because

pin 8 must remain connected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is my work on installing a 07 head unit into a 06 Outback wagon to access the Aux input connector:

 

Purchased the 07 Head unit on Ebay (P-204-UN, single CD, Manual AC, the best $50.00 I ever spent).

 

After reviewing all the post about the pinout of the 07 vs 06's small 8 pin connector, and since I have manual AC. I determind that the existing connector plugged into the existing 8 pin connector of the 06 head unit would not be needed. The car does not have a sub woofer.

 

I determined that the pin to pin spacing was the same as the Molex 0.1" space header plug (will edit with a part nunber next wk) and that the row to row spacing would allow two of these connectors to be stacked one on top of the other. I felt that covering all eight exposed pins was better than just getting the 4 pins necessary for the Aux input.

 

I took two 4-pin molex header plugs placing then one on top of the other to make a 8 pin plug. I then took a standard 6ft long 1/8" male to male stereo audio cable and cut one end off to get to the three wires. Crimped the three wires to molex pins (p/n next wk) and inserted them into the correct location (can be found on other post). Pin 1 (Left Audio), Pin 2 (Right Audio, Pin 5 (Audio Gnd). A 4th wire goes into Pin 6 (Aux enable) which is pulled to chassis thru one of the small screws of the head unit. I then put shrink sleeve arount the body of the connector to hold it together, but that is not necessary.

 

Next I took an sharp knife and cut down the two ridges that the 8 pin connector of the head unit has. The two ridges are there to help the orginal connecor slide in easy. They need to be removed to allow the made up connector to slide in.

 

I tested this set on the bench and the aux i input worked. I installed the head unit this weekend (orginal 8 pin connector in harness not installed), routed the aux input cable to exit the center console on the passanger side, leaving approx 2 ft of wire. Everything works great.

 

I can e-mail photos if you PM me your e-mail address.:)

 

Hi,

this is my first post. I also have a 2006 OBW with the manual controls. I just bought an '08 radio so that I can have aux and Mp3 capability.

 

My question relates to the bolded words above. I don't understand what you mean by "pulled" where you refer to the ground. Also, I am confused about how /where to hook up the audio enable wire at the aux jack location (not the head unit), and the chassis ground. I have a jack ready to mount, but it has only 3 terminals: a left, right, and ground. Where does the Audio enable go?! Did you connect a second wire to either the right or left (or both)?

 

I would like to do this later this week, but I am a novice and need to understand fully before I start. I'll send you a pm for pics. thanks for sharing your mod.

 

-cjv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since you have manual climate controls,

I'm confused why you didn't just put an after-market head-unit in, the

conventional wisdom being that there are kits that do a nice job of

retrofitting standard-DIN head-units into your car. .

 

 

Personally, I prefer the look of the stock radio compared to aftermarket. Most aftermarkets either would not match the interior illumination, or would just look a bit garish IMO. The were/are a few I am considering because of the convenience and additional options unavaible to the stock radio, such as built in blue tooth, usb ports, pre-amp outputs, etc.....FWIW....conventional wisdom has never been a strength of mine.:)

-cjv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

VandeMan

 

What I mean by " pulled to" is that pin 6 is connected to the case (chassis) of the head unit. This pin must be connected the the chassis ground to enable the head unit. If this is not connected to ground the head unit will not switch into aux input when you push the aux button on the front of the unit.

 

My modification did not use the aux input jack that is mounted in the car. All I used was the male plug. Your are correct that the cable only has three wires. The forth wire at pin 6 is only connected to the case of the head unit using a small screw.

 

Send me your e-mail and I will send you my photos. I can't get them to post here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What I mean by " pulled to" is that pin 6 is connected to the case (chassis) of the head unit. This pin must be connected the the chassis ground to enable the head unit. If this is not connected to ground the head unit will not switch into aux input when you push the aux button on the front of the unit.

 

Seems kinda ugly, huh ? Because (if I'm understanding correctly) you

have to connect a wire from pin 6 on the connector back to the chassis

of the radio; so you have to connect/disconnect both the connector itself

and the grounding screw when you install/remove the HU.

 

Since the radio ground is presumably the same as the car's main ground,

I suppose one could run a wire from pin 6 of the connector to a ground

somewhere in the void behind the radio; or maybe just partner a 4th

wire with the 3-conductor stereo coax, and connect it to the car chassis

at the spot you mount the jack (not at option for Jeromes' jackless

installation). That way, when you disconnect our 8-pin connector (plus

whatever other connectors there are, the "main" one and the antenna,

I guess), the radio would be free.

 

Or maybe I'm just being silly ... since the way everyone else is doing it,

the grounded wire from pin 6 is just another connector, albeit one that

requires a tool (screwdriver) to remove. I suppose one could rig up

a spade thingy, so you just disconnect it like that.

 

As long as I'm obsessing on this, has anyone considered mounting two

RCA jacks instead of a stereo mini-jack ? Cables that go from an RCA

pair to a stereo mini are just as common as those that have a stereo

mini-plug male at both ends. The RCAs seem more secure, than trying

to get 3 reliable contacts on that tiny 1/8" plug ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RustyShackleford

 

With all the trim removed to get to the head unit, the 6' aux wire is free so it goes with the head unit. No need to disconnect it from the unit.

 

If you are using the OEM mounted Aux input that has the contacts that are closed when a plug is inserted into the jack then you could run the aux enable (pin 6 ) thru them to chassis ground.

 

That configuration would work exactly like the 2007 models.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

VandeMan

 

What I mean by " pulled to" is that pin 6 is connected to the case (chassis) of the head unit. This pin must be connected the the chassis ground to enable the head unit. If this is not connected to ground the head unit will not switch into aux input when you push the aux button on the front of the unit.

 

My modification did not use the aux input jack that is mounted in the car. All I used was the male plug. Your are correct that the cable only has three wires. The forth wire at pin 6 is only connected to the case of the head unit using a small screw.

 

Send me your e-mail and I will send you my photos. I can't get them to post here.

 

 

Jeromes,

Thanks for that clarification. This hack/mod seems even easier now. I was under the misbelief that two additional wires ran from the aux input, one to pin 6 (audio enable), and one to pin 4 (chassisground). Apparently pin 4 chassis ground only applies to some imprezza/forester models(?).

 

Looks like I'll try to do this this weekend.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With all the trim removed to get to the head unit, the 6' aux wire is free so it goes with the head unit. No need to disconnect it from the unit.

 

I guess it comes free for you, because you just go from the connector

to a cable with male mini-plug. But not for those who want to run the

wire to a jack, and for folks with automatic climate controls (since

evidently pin8 needs to remain connected).

 

As far as my idea of a removable (without screwdriver) connection

for the pin6 wire, my new radio looks like it has a male spade lug

right there, and it seems (by ohm-meter) to be a ground; is there

something in the car that needs to plug onto that, or would it be

available for a female spade fitting attached to pin6 ?

 

If you are using the OEM mounted Aux input that has the contacts that are closed when a plug is inserted into the jack then you could run the aux enable (pin 6 ) thru them to chassis ground.

 

Well, I don't have the OEM mounted aux-in jack, because mine is an '06;

it's kinda surprising that your Baja does - a jack but no connection ?!?

 

What you're describing sounds like pin6 would get conncted to ground

only when something is plugged into the jack. But it sounds like the

way most people are doing the mod, pin6 is ALWAYS connected to

ground, which evidently that works fine. I guess the advantage of such

a jack would be that it'd prevent the radio from switching to aux-in if

nothing is plugged in (maybe a reason to spend $15 for the Legacy aux-in

kit even if the jack is all you use); except what's the point really, since

it's not like there's a selector button you push repeatedly to select inputs

and you'd want to skip aux if nothing is connected.

 

Thanks again for sharing your work and answering all our questions !!

 

P.S. I'm jealous as hell you got your radio for $50, after paying $500

for mine, and feeling like Subaru was doing me a favor by letting me

buy it ...

Edited by RustyShackleford
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The ones I used were some I had from work that were not used on a project.

 

If the pin spacing is the same they would work. I think I have a few of them around the house. I will grab one and check if it fits on the connector of the old 06 head unit that I pulled. If that works it will make it easy access to connectors.

 

Thanks for pointing it out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Holiday madness and now I finally have a few minutes while everyone's napping.

 

I was successful in installing my '07 radio in my '05 wagon. Merry Christmas to me! The aux jack works well! Extra bonus is that the new head unit play mp3/wma cds. Still not as cool as the Mini Cooper that can play music straight off USB memory stick but I'm happy!

 

I've attached a few pics:

989: shows the hole after everything is removed. (don't let this scare you!)

991: shows the air vent connector I had trouble with before removing the radio.

992: The garmin FM traffic receiver tapped into my 12V

994: '05 radio on left and '07 on right

1004: a tip I'd like to pass on for removing the pins from the connector for re-use for aux-in line: Push a piece of stiff wire into the gap above the wire (as shown) and this will release the tab that holds the pin in the connector. Then gently pull the wire and cable and the pin should come out.

 

Finally I initially had some ground loop issues (engine whine coupled onto audio) when playing mp3s from my gps (plugged into 12V) attached to the aux-in jack. Removing the gps from 12V power prevented the symptom but clearly wasn't the cause. I went back and cleaned my battery terminal before re-attaching it and presto no more ground loop noise (for now). Hopefully it stays fixed. I unplugged the battery several times during my install since I was a touch paranoid about getting an airbag in the face. ;) So maybe that's why I ended up having a bad connection. Remember terminals should be clean, bright, and tight.

 

I haven't got my "after" picture yet but my aux in jack looks a lot like Deer Killer's. Then I have my garmin nuvi mounted in the cubby above the radio. Very happy with the result.

 

Thanks all and expecially Deer Killer for starting this thread.

 

P.S. I'll try to post my after picture but no promises when. :rolleyes:

IMG_0989.jpg.fe778acde67c780204c5c30e59dcd374.jpg

IMG_0991.jpg.251c56a57aaf1f894c2f4ba5d3159daf.jpg

IMG_0992.jpg.011e4bfe4b6d75d46c15c2ce8ef34d49.jpg

IMG_0994.jpg.8b6793b90ea697a27b9f9db9ea23a39c.jpg

IMG_1004.jpg.a789ff45f656096b395afd117b5c8b99.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've digested this whole thread, and am ready to take the plunge to upgrade my '06 spec.B radio with an '07. The *only* thing I'm not entirely clear on is navigation compatibility. The spec.B has factory nav and I certainly don't want lose it.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finished this job today, a few comments and suggestions ...

 

Getting the old HU out is damn easy, easier than my '97 I'd say.

I didn't realize two of the mounting screws are recessed back in a

few inches, and removed a couple of screws I shouldn't have (they

hold some of the dash pieces together). No worries.

 

Hardest thing by far was removing the little brass screws (4 per

side) that connect the mounting brackets to the HU; you need to

transfer the brackets to the new HU, which comes without them.

I suggest a few blocks of wood to support the side of the old HU so

you can REALLY bear down on it, using the correct size phillips

screw-driver and lots of patience. Even so, I had to drill one of

'em out (being careful not to get any metal shavings inside the

old HU, in case it's of some use to me or someone else someday)

and use an easy-out (screw extractor). Used a spare screw from

my stock HU from my '97, but I doubt it woulda been missed.

 

I was slightly confused about which of the two 8-pin connectors is

the one you need to re-work to connect the aux-input jack. But yes,

it's the one with the white guard insert in the rear. I found it pretty

easy to "release" the pins, using a little pointy tool from a miniature

screw-driver set. I was tempted to ditch that little white guard/insert

thingy you remove to be able to release the pins, because it basically

requires you have to solder up the aux-input cable INSIDE the recessed

area where the HU sits (since you have to thread the wires through the

white thingy, and the green wire on pin #8 has to stay in place). Instead,

I just clipped the green wire, in addition to the other 4 wires, and brought

the whole thing to my workbench for easy solder/assembly. Then I simply

re-attached the green wire with a little wire nut when I re-installed the

harness. As far as the aux-enable wire (which must be tied to chassis

ground), I tapped into the insulation on the black ground wire (which plugs

onto a male spade lug on the back of the HU); I liked that I didn't have to

add yet another connection to the back of the HU (by connecting the

aux-enable to a screw on the back of the radio).

 

I put the aux-input jack into the back of the existing cubby - didn't even

need to remove the cubby or vent trim - just drilled a 15/64" hole into

the back of the cubby and reached up behind there to install the jack.

Seemed like a good place, since I think I'll put my Sirius (Stratus, not

the factory one) into the cubby. Easy enough to relocate if I change

my mind.

 

After everything was connected, but before screwing in the radio and

re-assembling the trim, I powered it up ... AND ... everything worked

great EXCEPT the freakin' aux-input. Quickly realized it was a loose

connection, and soon narrowed in down not to my solder work, but to

the Molex pins themselves; yep, I could reach in the back of the 8-pin

plug and push 'em with a toothpick and each channel would

come and go. Pulled the pins back out and they seemed fine, and

seemed to be seated back in the connector housing properly. Exasperated,

I put the thing back together (to be able to drive) and it works fine;

apparently releasing all the strain from the harness fixed the problem.

Drove around awhile, plenty of bumps, and rock solid. Hardly re-assuring

though (what was the guy saying about disassembling his dash during a

road-trip ...) I guess I'll try to figure it out when I go back in to clean

up the wiring for the Sirius. But I'm perplexed; any ideas ???

Edited by RustyShackleford
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Core:

Not sure, because I don't have factory nav, but I remember seeing nav wires listed on the wiring diagram. I don't have access to my wiring diagrams right now but could send them in a week or so if you want (PM me).

 

Rusty:

Not sure about the white piece in the connector. As long as the tab holding each pin works well (not bent) then I think the white piece is unecessary but for the record I put mine back in. I didn't want to have to tear the dash off during my 2000 mile road trip :).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you re-use the white guard on the connector? If not that could be the intermittent pin connect issue.

 

Just a thought.

 

Yeah, I did re-use it (I edited my post #275 to talk about

how I clipped the green wire too, so I could rework the whole

harness on a bench). So I don't think that's the problem. I did

have to pull the guard out when I was jiggling the pins with a

toothpick to verify the pins were the loose connection, but

putting the guard back in hardly made the thing solid (until

I screwed the HU back into its usual position). I guess the

pins must be bad somehow - I have a buddy who's all into

"ham fests" and I betcha he has thousands of the pins.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi all,

 

I would like to thank everyone for their contributions to this thread. those of us with '05 / '06 units that want to upgrade will find the info and user experiences valuable.

 

That said Ive decided NOT to install the 08 H/U I purchased, but rather am going with an aftermarket unit. I realized that with all the other accessories I want, it makes more sense for me to buy a single aftermarket unit with all the toys integrated. The only downside is that I will not retain the factory look.

 

So if anyone is interested in a 08 head unit, single cd w manual controls, I've posted it in the Classified section here .

 

Good luck with your mods

-cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use