erguby Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 How did you get the front bottom bolts alligned when installing the new strut? I need to compress the strut to align the holes but can't figure out how. How did you do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devobuzz Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 Try jacking up the other side so both wheels are off the ground. The sway bar is pushing the control arm up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 3.5 years after the fact and this thread is still helping people out. I have the chilton manual but these pictures are way better. Its good to read about the breaker bar / impact gun issues. Doesn't sound fun but at least I'll know what to expect this weekend. Thanks lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 How did you get the front bottom bolts alligned when installing the new strut? I need to compress the strut to align the holes but can't figure out how. How did you do it? With a floor jack... and push down slightly on the hub..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 3.5 years after the fact and this thread is still helping people out. I have the chilton manual but these pictures are way better. Its good to read about the breaker bar / impact gun issues. Doesn't sound fun but at least I'll know what to expect this weekend. Thanks I'm glad it's still helping you all out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcat213 Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 I just used your write-up to install RalliTek springs, very helpfully thank you. I would like to add taking notice of the orientation of the top plate after removing the front strut. The Spec-B has two rubber tabs protruding out of the top plate that are orientated perpendicular to lower mounting bolt holes. I did not take notice of this when installing the drivers side, it will cause a rubbing sound when you turn the steering wheel. I removed the strut, re-orientate the top plate and reinstalled strut, no more rubbing sound. I noticed that people are posting their times, THIS IS NOT A RACE, take your and time be safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticklelgt Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 any body have the torque specs for the bolts planning to install ralliteks soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 ticklelgt http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5757 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 any body have the torque specs for the bolts planning to install ralliteks soon Just a note on the Rallitek springs. Wrap the last 2 lower coils of the front springs with some weatherproof tape. I had alot of spring clunk when going over bumps with my install before wrapping mines... "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 You should have any clunk issues. What do you mean by weather proof tape? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 I just used some HD duct tape in the interim until I get Koni struts installed..My Rallitek springs made noise regardless of what I did. I notice with the H-techs the front springs are also wrapped vs the Ralliteks which are not. "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claw Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Swapped springs tonight, put in my ION progressive fronts and HD rears, with a 3/8" tophat. Looks a bit high out back.. One big problem though, is that both Geo Metro studs in the pass rear side spins loosely when the upper nut is tightened. So failing finding a secure option, can I try JB Weld to "stick" the studs to the tophat, or find some M10-1.25 nuts and bolts to secure the works together? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeblow Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 I just did my H-tech's last Monday and it went smoothly with the help of these instructions and some local subie guys that have done springs before. It's cool; I'm with the band Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king_j Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 did you use spacers? shoul i go with 1/4" or 3/8"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeblow Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 I didn't use spacers on mine, but if I was doing it again, I would probably do 1/4" on the rears. It has a little butt sag to it. It's cool; I'm with the band Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 I went 3/8 and if I could do it again I'd go 1/2... but I have bilstein fronts, which makes it ride a bit higher in front than koni's or stocks. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duffman Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 Thank u so much for this write-up. I used it as a guide to swap in a stock LGT suspension into my OBXT. My mini write-up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted June 28, 2010 Author Share Posted June 28, 2010 You're welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlickSpur Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 (edited) So is there only one bolt on the lower part of the strut to remove (each side) to get the strut off in the rear? (Looks like its right under the rotor, no need to get under the car). These guys remove a bolt from the rear control arm when doing this swap on an STi, do we not have to do that? [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPjTds5alQM&feature=related]YouTube- RaceComp Engineering Regular Guy Springs How-To Install[/ame] Edited August 3, 2010 by SlickSpur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemo Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 (edited) ^ Nope, our rear suspension is different. It's only one bolt in the rear. edit: i just watched them do the fronts... and they had one hell of an easy time getting the fronts back in... i had such trouble Edited August 3, 2010 by nemo If you don't vote Trump, out, you're a bigot who hates america. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlickSpur Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 ^ Nope, our rear suspension is different. It's only one bolt in the rear. edit: i just watched them do the fronts... and they had one hell of an easy time getting the fronts back in... i had such trouble Ya, that video is frustrating to watch because they make everything look so easy. Must be the gloves... What bolt in the front are people saying they have trouble getting off? One of the two bottom ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemo Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 ^ It would have to be one of those two. I had no problem getting them off. The most difficult task of the entire thing for me, was getting the front passenger side strut back in. Lining it up with the rotor was a PITA for some reason. The strut was way low. Just give everything a healthy dose of PB-Blaster and you should be fine. If you don't vote Trump, out, you're a bigot who hates america. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlickSpur Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 (edited) Ok I'll give it a try today or tomorrow. Thanks nemo. Edit: I take it these spec'd torques aren't required to be right on the money? I borrowed a torque wrench from work and it certainly does not go to a decimal like 22.4 ft-lb... Edited August 3, 2010 by SlickSpur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeblow Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 ^ mine are all just tightened down. The only thing I torque is my lugs to make sure they're all the same. It's cool; I'm with the band Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlickSpur Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 (edited) In the walkthru for the rear installs, it says "I jacked up the rear of the car underneath the rear differential... then slid jack stands underneath the rear cradle beams." Where/what are these? I checked the manual and it seems like the rear differential "front member" is this piece, is this the correct place to jack? It says use "transmission jack"...Is that only if you remove that "front member" piece? Is the transmission under that (which I assume I dont have to touch?). I'm not really sure what those last two pics are jacking. Which are the rear cradle beams to put the jack stands under? I was just going to jack the car up and put a jackstand under the side of the car, like where you would for an oil change. Is this not stable enough? Edited August 9, 2010 by SlickSpur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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