Mr. T Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 Mobil 1 has been the only oil I've used since 1977. Living in the cold north most of my life, cold starts are an issue. Mobil 1 flows just as well at -20F as it does at +60F. The car starts much easier. The high heat issues with the turbo are also a factor. And yes, I do change mine between 4000 - 5000 miles. Over 100,000 miles, it adds up to about $200 more for the 6 - 7 additional oil changes. All in all, it is cheap insurance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iyamdman Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 I have 28,000 miles on the car, and have used the 'Made in Germany' Syntec 0-30wt for the last 18,000 miles (3 oil changes - another 3000k and I will do another - I change it every 7,500 miles). Car run smooth and cool - The 0-30wt Syntec is expensive and hard to find (Autozone in Lake Forest is the only place around who has it) - well worth it for me. Decided on it after reading a lot of 'Bob the oil guy' Save the dinosaurs - buy synthetic!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmonkey841 Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 That's BS. I'm just repeating what they told me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 at you guys arguing about oil. It is a personal prefrence based on experience, marketing, and personal knowlege. I change my oil every 5K miles RELIGIOUSLY! I have always used Valvoline 5W30 in my cars and I do all my own work. Here is a list of my vehicles and the milages that I have had in recent years....all have run Valvoline Dino oil their entire lives... 2005 LGT - currently 36,000 miles. 1999 Chevrolet S10 - Currently 116,000 miles. 1969 Camaro - 89,000 miles. I run 10W30 in this car, however..... 1995 Camaro Z28 - traded in @ 163,000 miles. I lost a head gasket at 161K miles and there was NO sludge in the motor when I tore it down. And the car was always driven hard. 1986 Pontiac Grand Am V6 - 246,000 miles ... died when the oil pump failed... and it wasn't worth replacing the oil pump. The bearings, cam, rockers and pushrods were in good shape still. BTW... black oil on a change isn't necessarly a bad thing. The color is from the trapped contaminants in the oil (moisture, gasoline, solids, and non volitle remanants). Basically.... If you maintain your vehicles religioiusly and never skip oil changes... you're going to be just fine.... as long as it is a quality oil (with a good additive and detergent package). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanjk3 Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 Maybe some people don't realize the advantages of synthetic oil, but to say that synthetic oil is of no advantage is a little short-sighted, and usually seems to be based on little to no evidence beyond... "well, my car doesn't burn oil, so regular oil must be just fine." I know the advantages of synthethic. For example, since I don't live in Alaska or Canada, 0W-30 isn't needed. Now if I did live there that's the only thing I'd use in the winter. If I drove like 16K miles a year instead of only 6K, again the less frequent change interval would be nice. But for someone in my situation, synthetic is a waste of money. Neither of my cars has boost, so that's not an issue. BTW the place I take my car to for an oil change, when I don't do it myself , uses Kendal Synthetic Blend. Though they put on the wrong oil filter so I don't think I'll be going back there. Friends don't let friends drink cheap beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubLo Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 Mobil 1 has been the only oil I've used since 1977. Living in the cold north most of my life, cold starts are an issue. Mobil 1 flows just as well at -20F as it does at +60F. The car starts much easier. The high heat issues with the turbo are also a factor. And yes, I do change mine between 4000 - 5000 miles. Over 100,000 miles, it adds up to about $200 more for the 6 - 7 additional oil changes. All in all, it is cheap insurance. Huh? I've yet to come across any liquid that don't exhibit different properties with temperature variations. Mobil 1 or any other oil does not flow as well at -20F as it does at +60F. The Centistoke (cSt), or measurement of viscosity, is very different for this oil at various temperatures. That's not to say it won't flow and protect at -20F, but it's not going to behave the same as it would at 60F degrees. Yes, it does have improved viscosity characteristics vs. temperature variations over conventional motor oil. Mobil 1 5W-30 ________________________________________________ [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1980"]'05 BSM OBXT Row-your-own, W.I.P. :rolleyes:[/URL] [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1242"]'06 Shrek B # 64 - The car the wife loved to hate :( Sold...[/URL] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 Argggghhh! Why do so many people try to make this a longevity issue? I don't care how long I can go between oil changes. I change my oil at the same interval as I would with any other vehicle or type of oil. The main point about synthetic is that it is more durable under harsh conditions, and thus is what I run in my car. I can't guarantee the oil in my car gets hot enough to be an issue or not. What I can tell you is that for $10 more every few months, I can guarantee that it won't cause any problems if it does get that hot. NA cars are nowhere similar. Run what you want in them but when you play with forced induction and the heat involved, you really shouldn't skimp on buying better oil. Oil change places charge a big premium for synthetic but if you DIY the difference is small, especially when considered over the life of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiedad Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 I have a '99 GT , and i use Castrol 10w30 semi-synthetics in it. I usually put in 2 qts of Hi-mile, 2 qts of Syntec Blend(or Start-up, if i can find it), and a qt of Lucas. Runs Great, doesn't burn, and no ticking. I realize most of you have the new GT, but I cant hang the payments of a new one, and i've put way to much money/time/energy into this one to 'off' it, and start over. I think Mobile one SUCKS!!!!!! I had to change my oil after 2k with that shit! it burned up, ticked, and by then had the consitency of water. I've also smoked a 'perfectly good'(ran fine before) engine by using full synthetics. My buddy works at Jiffy Lube(but I still do my own, thanx), and the feels that full synth isn't worth it either. if you read the bottle it states that full syn's are for "frequent short trips". just my opinion.... some food for thought: My other flat four uses 'ashless dispersant' Havoline 80w...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElCoyote Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 I switched to Mobil 1 synth @ the first oil change. Recently i have switched to Royal Purple synth and i friggin love it. Why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garandman Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 I'm just repeating what they told me... http://legacygt.com/forums/naturally-aspirated-powertrains-2/28397-official-soa-pronouncement-synthetic.html Who Dares Wins スバル Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew_j Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 I think the concensus with turbo motors is that synthetic is a must. the oil has to lubricate and cool the turbo as well, which can get to high temps (650+ at shutdown) where conventional oil can break down and fail to protect. as far as it's application with boxster motors, I don't know. There are no doubt benefits to synthetic but the question if they will ever be realized is continually debatable. In old school turbo's oil was incredibly critical as oil was the only cooling fluid available. Now every turbo car has engine coolant AND oil cooling the turbo. The idle down period is no longer necessary as Subaru designed in convection cooling. What occurs is that once the engine is shutdown, natural convenction continues to allow the coolant to flow cooling the turbo down until appropriately cooled. It still is not a bad idea after running fun boost though and if immediately stopping to let it idle 30 secs or so, (typically the car is out of boost for a min or so slowing down and parking so this step is unnecessary). My mum's 1988 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon still has its OEM turbo at 255,000 miles running dino every 4k miles. She never idles it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmonkey841 Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 http://legacygt.com/forums/naturally-aspirated-powertrains-2/28397-official-soa-pronouncement-synthetic.html Ok...good letter...but how does that show what I said was BS... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWP-LegacyGT Posted July 5, 2006 Author Share Posted July 5, 2006 @ this thread. I'll have to call this one being locked in a few days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Rebo Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 I put Mobil 1 in the LGT at the last change but I think I'll switch back to Castrol GTX. I've never run synthetic and am having trouble believing that its any better than dino oil with changes every 5K or so. With changes every 3-5k, there will be no discernable difference other than the synthetic being a bit more expensive. Synthetic is definitely better, but most people wouldn't see the difference with the type of driving they do. In this case, either type would be good for them. It's up to their wallet. This isn't the 1950's anymore... As such, "regular" oil has improved since then. For normal driving conditions, changes at 3000-mile intervals is a waste of money, though -- regardless of whether it gives someone peace of mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikvcl Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 Hi - It seems like many of you change your own own oil on your Legacies that are under warranty. I was under the impression that you had to "pay someone" in order to maintain warranty coverage. Or is the receipt from the oil/filters enough? I'd like to do DIY service on my Legacy as soon as possible. The dealer made the fun mistake of not screwing in the oil drain plug all the way -- it popped out while driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Rebo Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 As long as you have a record of your oil changes, they can't deny you warranty coverage. You can DIY or go to another shop. Either way, you'll be able to generate records of the changes. That's what counts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 I don't have any record of my oil changes. It would be up to them to prove that I didn't change the oil, not to me that I did do so. That being said, once you've got around 5k+ miles on your car, it's obviously not going to fail due to any defects -- anything that happens later is your fault anyway. My car will likely never see a Subaru service bay during its entire lifetime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLegacy99 Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 as long as subaru sends me $19 oil chage coupons its getting whatever conventional oil they put in. Amen. $16.95. Offer expires 8/31/06. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 @ this thread. I'll have to call this one being locked in a few days. I'm still , too...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnAWD Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 Only synthetic in all of my cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWP-LegacyGT Posted July 7, 2006 Author Share Posted July 7, 2006 I'm still , too...... yeah it's pretty good entertainment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver05LegGTL Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 as long as subaru sends me $19 oil chage coupons its getting whatever conventional oil they put in. +1 That is exactly what I do... I had an 04 STI that the dealer would put synthetic in but I can't say it made any difference, however the STI motor pushes a little harder. Keep in mind my LGT is stock... some of you guys running mods might be using synoil for the same reason they suggest it in STI's. I also get oil changes every 3k miles. My dad C6 Corvette has synoil and recommends changes at 7500 miles, and he goes by that, but he also get a new Corvette every two years so I don't think he is too concerned with the cars long life! Hey if you got it, spend it... right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jereditty1 Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 I prefer vegtable Oil ... I just pour it over the engine and intercooler. I haven't had a problem yet and my car smells like french fries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanE Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 I hear Car and Driver prefers diesel oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 I prefer vegtable Oil ... I just pour it over the engine and intercooler. I haven't had a problem yet and my car smells like french fries. [Homer] Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm..... French Fries...... [/homer] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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