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Am I the only one sticking to "normal" oil on my Legacy?


How do you roll? Regular Oil or Synthetic  

218 members have voted

  1. 1. How do you roll? Regular Oil or Synthetic

    • I'm using Regular oil for the life of my Legacy!
      101
    • Hell no, Synthetic oil is the way to go!!
      117


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Dino up until the 15,000 mi. mark, I just bought a 5 Qt. jug of Mobile 1 for $20 and that will be the oil for the remainder of the leggy's days. A few years back when I worked at a garage it was common for us to do a mobile 1 oil change every 10,000 mi. with a filter change at every 5,000 mi. I will most likely do every 4,000 mi.
Stage2.5376, TDC ProTune,blah blah blahhhh and....Alky/H20 injection :icon_mrgr
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Regular oil. I ran synthetic in my GTP and for some of the time I had my WRX and it didn't make the car any better and made my wallet lighter.

 

Hey, Jedi, here's a vote for you to switch your avatar back to the hotties.

 

:spin:

 

:munch:

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Dino is fine for my LGT, since it's just my 'winter beater'. Mobil 1 for the Miata. IMO, though, it probably doesn't matter either way, as long as you always change at the proper intervals.

Seek first to understand, then to be understood.

 

In other words: SEARCH before you post!

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Mobil 1 - every 4000 or so, and with 13,xxx on the car it hasn't burned a drop. I may space out the oil changes further in the future after the car's really broken in, but I'm discovering that my driving qualifies as "severe use." This is my first new car, and I'll pay the extra $6 an oil change for premium oil. With the heat from the turbo and the amount of sitting in traffic I do, I think it's worth it.

 

As for dealer oil changes, I took my Legacy in for its first change (I had a coupon and you guys had scared me into thinking the oil filter was welded on :) ). It came back with half a quart over, so I got to smell burning oil until I got to my inlaws and could borrow their top sider oil changer to pump out half a quart.

 

Now I have a fumoto drain valve and take care of it myself, and I still had to put a screwdriver through the dealer installed filter to get it off - at least it wasn't cross-threaded. That was only the /second/ time I'd ever taken a car (any car) in to get the oil change. So far, I'm 0/2 on good oil change shop experiences, so I'll keep doing it myself.

 

-Ryan

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As for dealer oil changes... It came back with half a quart over, so I got to smell burning oil until I got to my inlaws and could borrow their top sider oil changer to pump out half a quart.

 

Same thing happened to me from a free dealer oil change at a reputable SoCal Subaru dealership.

 

Never again. You can keep the freebie.

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I use the Castrol Sythec blend. The whole oil controversy is blown out of proportion. You can't say what is right or wrong just use what you want. It is also hard to use experience as a guideline. I had an old Toyota that I put over 150,000 miles on and only changed the oil twice. When I finally sold that car it had over 200,000 miles on it and the guy I sold it too drove it until the body rusted in half. I am thinking oil changes at 3,000 or 5,000 would have been a waste of money. That being the case I change the oil in my LGT every 4,000 to 5,000 miles even though I could obviously go 75,000 miles or more between oil changes.:lol:
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Unless your manual states you require synthetic(Subaru specs dino on all models including STI) it is a money waster IMHO.

 

Conventional motor oil changed every ~5000 miles.

 

The only sure fire way to tell if your oil & duration is right for you is to perform a used oil analysis over a few oil change intervals. I just can't see collecting the sample, mailing it and paying for that.

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Synthetic doesn't turn to sludge when overheated, meaning your turbo will live a lot happier life because of it.

 

Debate all you want when referring to a NA car, but when it comes to turbos, the only time you don't run synthetic is when you plan to trade the car within a few years anyway. Then it's the other guy's problem!

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regular oil for me. If you do the oil changes on time everytime, then no problem. I was thinking about going to synthetic, but I was thinking $32.00 for regular Valvoline 10W30, and about $60.00 for synthetic. Save the money and put it into something that you know that can help your car out.
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Regular oil for me as well...I asked about this when buying my lgt, cause I thought I had to use synthetic and just wanted to verify...the dealer actually told me that SOA reccomends using regular oil over synthetic...
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Regular oil for both my cars. Tried sythetic a couple times in my GA and previous car and didn't notice any difference. I drive only ~6K miles a year, so for me sythetic would be a waste.

 

Have 156K miles on our '95 and it doesn't burn or leak oil.

Friends don't let friends drink cheap beer.
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Hey, Jedi, here's a vote for you to switch your avatar back to the hotties.

 

 

who said the current avatar isn't of a hottie?(albeit with a plunger on her face)

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Regular oil for both my cars. Tried sythetic a couple times in my GA and previous car and didn't notice any difference. I drive only ~6K miles a year, so for me sythetic would be a waste.

 

Have 156K miles on our '95 and it doesn't burn or leak oil.

 

I mean no disrespect but you say you didn't notice any difference? What exactly were you expecting to notice? how do you know that cylinder blow-by isn't replacing burned oil with gasoline contamination? (maybe it isn't... but it is a possibility.) Subaru engines seem very well built by reputation, so 150k miles may not be a big deal for such a well built piece. That doesn't mean that synthetic oil is not effectively different than natural oil. It just means your anecdotal evidence seems to generate no outward symptoms.

 

That is like saying you can prove global warming because July is warmer than June, as measured by your back-yard thermometer. Purely circumstantial LACK of evidence, and an expected outcome.

 

I hope you realize that oil turns acidic when it is combined with the byproducts of combustion (ash, unburned gasoline, hydrocarbons... etc.) and if you don't drive much, that acidity is more of a problem (it sits, and eats into the metallic surfaces if left sitting unused for a long time... more so than if it is circulated more often, held in suspension in the oil, and changed out with the mileage schedule, which will occur more often with more miles.)

 

Synthetic resists this by not being as chemically accepting of these byproducts, and by resisting acidity build up, and maintaining viscosity longer, rather than degrading over time. Not perfect, nothing you could see with your eyes, and may not have a truly great difference with frequent changes, but better, none-the-less.

 

Driving a moderate distance very periodically, and routine oil changes are the BEST conditions for using natural mineral-based oils. High mileage, LOW mileage (not running the car to temperature on short distance driving, or letting the car sit for long periods of time between runs) or other out of the ordinary running habits, as well as the very high heat and shearing forces in the center section of the turbocharger (40-50 THOUSAND RPM in addition to impeller and compressor heat) are all reasons to consider synthetic oils, that are usually more robust, slippery, and long wearing base compounds than naturally occuring mineral oil.

 

Think of it like plastic, which is a related, engineered, naturally-derived polymer. Is there one kind of plastic?-no. Are different plastics suited better for different tasks?-yes, thousands. Are modern plastics better with more advantages, and fewer drawbacks than plastics from decades ago?-of course!

 

Polymers in oil lubrication are somewhat related, and similarly, have been advanced by modern chemistry. Additives and friction modifiers added to natural mineral oil have advanced, but synthetic goes further to engineer the base oil stock polymer composition for additional benefit.

 

Maybe some people don't realize the advantages of synthetic oil, but to say that synthetic oil is of no advantage is a little short-sighted, and usually seems to be based on little to no evidence beyond... "well, my car doesn't burn oil, so regular oil must be just fine."

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^ A good summary by IwannaSportSedan.

 

Do the theoretical benefits of synthetic translate into real-world benefits for my car? I don't know. I use Mobil 1, changed every 4-5K, because it makes me feel better.

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Regular oil for me as well...I asked about this when buying my lgt, cause I thought I had to use synthetic and just wanted to verify...the dealer actually told me that SOA reccomends using regular oil over synthetic...

 

That's BS.

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Unless your manual states you require synthetic(Subaru specs dino on all models including STI) it is a money waster IMHO.

 

Conventional motor oil changed every ~5000 miles.

 

The only sure fire way to tell if your oil & duration is right for you is to perform a used oil analysis over a few oil change intervals. I just can't see collecting the sample, mailing it and paying for that.

 

The dealer told me that my GT came loaded with semi-synthetic - I wonder if subaru did a switch over or if the dealers are mis-educated (like normal).

 

If semi-synthetic is good, then fully-synthetic is better, right? :)

 

Like I said before, for the extra $6 an oil change I'm going to put the best I can into my crankcase. That being said, I've cracked open 2xx,xxx BMW motors that lived on Castrol 20w-50 dino and been able to see the hone marks on the cylinder walls. Of course, the rest of the BMW was pretty much junk at that point, but I digress...

 

-Ryan

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I think the concensus with turbo motors is that synthetic is a must. the oil has to lubricate and cool the turbo as well, which can get to high temps (650+ at shutdown) where conventional oil can break down and fail to protect. as far as it's application with boxster motors, I don't know.

 

also most engine and lubricant manufacturers recommend that synthetic oil not be used during the "break-in" period of an engine. The reason for this is that synthetics, possessing extraordinary lubricity and lubricant film strength, do not permit the metal wear necessary for the seating of piston rings. A change to synthetic motor oil should wait until you new or rebuilt engine has completed the break-in period of six to eight thousand miles.

there are other benefits...cleaner engine, better mileage, fewer changes, less wear...worth the extra $$ in my opinion

 

anyway, I ran synth mobil1 in the z and ran it in the svt...it always came out clean at changes, (which was at about 8k), this was after after lots of high temp beatings on the cars, tracking etc... unlike the dino which turned black pretty fast.

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I still use regular in my Legacy, and I doubt I'll be switching to synthetic.

 

I'm suprised at how often people change their oil. There are 3 or 4 people in this post that say they change the oil every 4,000 or 5,000 miles with synthetic oil! That's a lot of wasted money in my opinion. Subaru recommends oil changes every 7,500 miles (even with regular oil). I change mine with regular oil every 7,500 if I do mostly highway driving, or every 5,000 if I do a lot of bumper-to-bumper city driving.

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