How to Install Steering Wheel Radio Controls

[mcsquish]

Yep and yep.

I haven't had ANY problems what so ever. I used splice blocks and braided wire (from Radio Shack) instead of cutting wires and solid core wire, I did have to cut the shift wires though. Trabbic's directions are extremely good, and the sub-woofer instructions are what I used to get to the back of the radio since that part of the directions were for the manual. The radio controls are MUCH more useful than the shift buttons (plus the illuminated buttons look cool at night)

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Bmw M6 History

Edited April 6, 2011 by mcsquish

[Stryker]

So, no check engine light, because I read somewhere that cutting the shift cables gives you a CEL. Is true?

[Leonardo]

not for what I can read. Anyhow, you can flash that out with the AP

[Guest]

No 2.5i people who attempted this?

 

Anyway, when I get 2.5i, I'll try to do that since I have the audio-control wheel already on my LGT.

[mcsquish]

No CEL's and I can't flash yet. I did this a while ago and no bad things have happened. (As you hear me knocking on some wood)

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Yzr-M1

Edited April 6, 2011 by mcsquish

[Stryker]

Can you post some pictures of your setup?

[hoovman]

No 2.5i people who attempted this?

 

Anyway, when I get 2.5i, I'll try to do that since I have the audio-control wheel already on my LGT.

 

If you succeed in installing the audio controls wheel on your 2.5i, I might do mine. I've had my radio out before to do the Jazzy aux-in mod so NBD there. I'm a little nervous working around the airbag though. Think I could find a shop that would do it for me?

[Leonardo]

Can you post some pictures of your setup?

 

Bump for Stryker's request.

[Guest]

If you succeed in installing the audio controls wheel on your 2.5i, I might do mine. I've had my radio out before to do the Jazzy aux-in mod so NBD there. I'm a little nervous working around the airbag though. Think I could find a shop that would do it for me?

 

For the time being I postponed purchase of a 2.5i. I did it on my LGT though and it's super easy. Just disconnect the battery and you are 100% safe. It would be really lame to take it to a shop for this kind of job.

 

If you removed the radio, the steering wheel thing is five times easier. No worries.

 

Just use the torx with an extension and a ratchet to crack the horn/air bag bolts, they are torqued tight.

[mvigneau]

Ok...I installed them into my 5EAT LGT (Automatic Transmission).

 

After studying the wiring diagrams, I noticed that Pin 7 was probably the only pin that would have to be cut because Pin 6 on the B86 connector doesn't have any connection on the side going toward the radio (not the side going toward the steering wheel).

 

So this is what I did. Only requires 2 wires! I used Red White for the Orange White connection and Violet White for the Violet White connection to make it easier to identify later on. Doesn't matter which pin goes to which pin on both sides (pin 6 can go to pin 3 or 7 behind radio and pin 7 can go to pin 3 or 7 behind radio). I tested the controls both ways (pin 6 to 3/7 and pin 7 to 3/7) and it worked both ways. Since they are using the resistance value for the switch, it doesn't matter, but I color coordinated it anyway.

 

I cut Pin 7 at the B86 connector (under the steering column).

 

I spliced in using wire taps (vampire taps) Pins 6 and 7.

 

That's it. The illumination works fine (didn't have to do anything) but is on all the time and looks a little dimmer than the rest of the illumination in the car but I liked the idea of not having to cut any more wires!! So if you don't care about having illumination on all the time when the car is powered and don't care about it not being able to dim when you hit the dimmer switch in the car, then there is no problem there.

 

The only problem is now my air bag light is on.

I had the negative and positive terminals disconnected from the car until the steering wheel was reconnected. After starting the car, the air bag light came on...but i followed the direction EXACTLY.

 

I even torqued down the steering wheel (17mm nut) to the 45nM specifications.

 

Do you think this will be a problem when I bring it to my dealer and they see steering wheel mounted controls???

[trabbic]

Ok...I installed them into my 5EAT LGT (Automatic Transmission).

 

After studying the wiring diagrams, I noticed that Pin 7 was probably the only pin that would have to be cut because Pin 6 on the B86 connector doesn't have any connection on the side going toward the radio (not the side going toward the steering wheel).

 

So this is what I did. Only requires 2 wires! I used Red White for the Orange White connection and Violet White for the Violet White connection to make it easier to identify later on. Doesn't matter which pin goes to which pin on both sides (pin 6 can go to pin 3 or 7 behind radio and pin 7 can go to pin 3 or 7 behind radio). I tested the controls both ways (pin 6 to 3/7 and pin 7 to 3/7) and it worked both ways. Since they are using the resistance value for the switch, it doesn't matter, but I color coordinated it anyway.

 

I cut Pin 7 at the B86 connector (under the steering column).

 

I spliced in using wire taps (vampire taps) Pins 6 and 7.

 

That's it. The illumination works fine (didn't have to do anything) but is on all the time and looks a little dimmer than the rest of the illumination in the car but I liked the idea of not having to cut any more wires!! So if you don't care about having illumination on all the time when the car is powered and don't care about it not being able to dim when you hit the dimmer switch in the car, then there is no problem there.

 

The only problem is now my air bag light is on.

I had the negative and positive terminals disconnected from the car until the steering wheel was reconnected. After starting the car, the air bag light came on...but i followed the direction EXACTLY.

 

I even torqued down the steering wheel (17mm nut) to the 45nM specifications.

 

Do you think this will be a problem when I bring it to my dealer and they see steering wheel mounted controls???

 

In no way is this trying to be mean... But are you sure you plugged in the air bag connectors? It is easy to double check.

 

Tomorrow I will re-read the post and double-check the wires you did and did not use.

[CasopoliS]

Tomorrow I will re-read the post and double-check the wires you did and did not use.

 

once he sobers up !!!! lol

 

go Toledo Mud Hens !!!

[mvigneau]

I am 99% sure because I remember pushing both tabs back down and pulling up on the connector (to see if it was connected) on the back of the airbag to make sure they were in.

[trabbic]

I am 99% sure because I remember pushing both tabs back down and pulling up on the connector (to see if it was connected) on the back of the airbag to make sure they were in.

 

First check the fuse panel, to make sure it is not a blown fuse. I would double check that first. Then make sure you have the wires on the airbag plugged in to the correct places. Also check the plug on the roll connector. Then double check to make sure you did not cut or unplug any of the yellow sheathed wires down by the steering column.

 

I am pretty sure that none of the wires in the other plugs do anything for the airbag. So I think your problem lies with one of the yellow sheathed wires. Please report back and let us know what you find.

 

And yes I was in no condition to give advise about air bags last night! Go HENS!

[Brady]

I give ... I need to buy vampire taps!

 

Re-did the wiring about 2 weeks ago and had a miss on the volume on the way to work again today. I think it's just that I used 18 ga. wire. Always wished I had the 16, which would probably hold better, but the 18 just keeps working out!

 

Oh well - at least I'm really good at it now!

[CasopoliS]

Here is what we know so far from the factory service manual:

 

MUTE - 22 Ohms

Volume + - 90 Ohms

Volume - - 200 Ohms

MODE - 360 Ohms

Seek + - 690 Ohms

Seek - - 1500 Ohms

Nominal - 4700 Ohms

 

Where can this be found? Is it in the vacation pics? Which section?

[trabbic]

Where can this be found? Is it in the vacation pics? Which section?

 

It is under the troubleshooting section for the stereo controls...

[CasopoliS]

It is under the troubleshooting section for the stereo controls...

 

EDIT: found it. 13-Steering Satellite switch

under entertainment

[hadvw]

Here is what we know so far from the factory service manual:

 

MUTE - 22 Ohms

Volume + - 90 Ohms

Volume - - 200 Ohms

MODE - 360 Ohms

Seek + - 690 Ohms

Seek - - 1500 Ohms

Nominal - 4700 Ohms

 

 

Hmm. So, if I rigged up a super-8-position joystick gadget that replicated those resistances (and 4.7K at rest), I should, in theory, be able to do all of those, right?

 

HV

[trabbic]

Hmm. So, if I rigged up a super-8-position joystick gadget that replicated those resistances (and 4.7K at rest), I should, in theory, be able to do all of those, right?

 

HV

 

 

Yup... That might be a good choice for those people that want a less expensive option or perhaps want to keep their shifter buttons if they drive a slowmatic.

[hadvw]

Yup... That might be a good choice for those people that want a less expensive option or perhaps want to keep their shifter buttons if they drive a slowmatic.

 

Interesting.. Now, how many wires do I need out of the steering wheel to do this? Just a single pair, to bring the resistance to the stereo? Is there a spare connector at the wheel hub?

 

So, I'd just need to:

1) create gadget - maybe with 3, 3-way, return-to-center switches?

2) hook up gadget wires to wheel hub

3) connect other side of wheel hub to stereo

 

Is that it? What am I missing?

 

Sure, it might look a bit like a ghetto mod, but..

 

HV

[CasopoliS]

Interesting.. Now, how many wires do I need out of the steering wheel to do this? Just a single pair, to bring the resistance to the stereo? Is there a spare connector at the wheel hub?

 

So, I'd just need to:

1) create gadget - maybe with 3, 3-way, return-to-center switches?

2) hook up gadget wires to wheel hub

3) connect other side of wheel hub to stereo

 

Is that it? What am I missing?

 

Sure, it might look a bit like a ghetto mod, but..

 

HV

 

Might want to wait before doing this. That is all I feel I can say at this point

[hadvw]

Might want to wait before doing this. That is all I feel I can say at this point

 

Sounds good, Caso..

 

Any idea HOW LONG I might want to wait?

 

HV

[mvigneau]

First check the fuse panel, to make sure it is not a blown fuse. I would double check that first. Then make sure you have the wires on the airbag plugged in to the correct places. Also check the plug on the roll connector. Then double check to make sure you did not cut or unplug any of the yellow sheathed wires down by the steering column.

 

I am pretty sure that none of the wires in the other plugs do anything for the airbag. So I think your problem lies with one of the yellow sheathed wires. Please report back and let us know what you find.

 

And yes I was in no condition to give advise about air bags last night! Go HENS!

 

 

Ok...I double checked everything today. All plugs were plugged in and tight (air bag, roll connector, etc...). Never touched any yellow wires because I know yellow=air bag.

 

Fuses are fine and none blown (check 2 of them that I could find) unless there are others.

 

So, I wonder what the dealer will do??

[mcsquish]

Yup... That might be a good choice for those people that want a less expensive option or perhaps want to keep their shifter buttons if they drive a slowmatic.

 

Slowmatic, ouch! no respect..........

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Honda Ns50

Edited April 6, 2011 by mcsquish