Brady Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 Color coded differently? Which wires were coded differently? Rear of the HU, or under the steering column? If under the column, just use the pinout diagram Trabbic made up. That was much more useful than the color coded wires in my opinion. If the wires on the back of the deck, that's also relatively simple to figure out, but I'd need to look again to help you out on that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 my wiring was Monster Cable.....color coding was all wrong. My brain was fried after doing other installs that day.....I didn't want to get it wrong, so I left it alone. I'll try to get it done this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brady Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 Ah. Now I follow you. Yeah, I had the same issue first. Then it turned out they gave me the wrong gauge wire at home depot and I ended up running to RadioShack anyway to get the wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armypilot Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 Here's a thought for those with 5EAT like me. I was noticing that on the steering wheel, on the side opposite of the shifting controls, there is an indentation that feels silimar in shape to the front shifting button piece. I literally just thought of this while reading this topic, but what about moving the shifting buttons to the backside of the wheel and installing the radio controls on the front? Ovbiously, this will require a bit of fab work to do so, but it might just allow us 5EAT guys to have the best of both worlds. When it stops raining, I'm going to chech this out a bit more... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trabbic Posted April 11, 2006 Author Share Posted April 11, 2006 Here's a thought for those with 5EAT like me. I was noticing that on the steering wheel, on the side opposite of the shifting controls, there is an indentation that feels silimar in shape to the front shifting button piece. I literally just thought of this while reading this topic, but what about moving the shifting buttons to the backside of the wheel and installing the radio controls on the front? Ovbiously, this will require a bit of fab work to do so, but it might just allow us 5EAT guys to have the best of both worlds. When it stops raining, I'm going to chech this out a bit more... This may be possible to do, but it will require a LOT of fabrication to the steering wheel, and switches (I think you may have to reverse the buttons, or change the resistance they send otherwise they will be backward, the down button with shift up etc...) The other (potentially bigger) problem is that there are only so many wires running through the roll connector, so we will first have to determine if the steering wheel shift buttons interfere with the stereo controls, and if the stereo controls interfere with the Transmission computer. Chances are if the signal output are different enough they will not, but nobody knows for sure yet. To check this measure the resistance coming off of the shifter buttons when you push up shift and down shift, you don't have to do this while driving, but the ignition must be on. Brady, did your ghost come back, still having troubles? My vB Garage How to Install Steering Wheel Radio Controls Cubby Gauge Mounting Solutions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brady Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 No issues with the ghosts yet. I'll have to keep an eye on it. For some reason I noticed it more on my drive home. Go figure. Could have something to do with the number of seams in the road or maybe stop and go traffic. Based on the appearance of the wire bundle, I think that was the problem. Time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brady Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 My saga continues. I was still experiencing some of the random issues with the volume and mute bottons not working. It happened most frequently with Mute, followed by volume up, and last volume down, which almost never failed. This fit with Trabbic's suggestion that it was a connection issue somewhere with the lever of resistance on each button. The sticking point is that honking the horn always fixed it. Which led me to believe it was still a problem in the steering wheel. I thought for a while it could have just been a coincidence with vibrations from the road causing the button to fail momentarily and then work again after I honked the horn by pure happenstance. I believe I debunked this, however, after the mute failed and wouldn't work again while parked in a parking lot. Very carefully and gently to avoid any vibration to the car, I honked the horn and the Mute magically started working again. I took the wheel apart ... AGAIN ... and pulled the roll connector. It looked like some of the pins may not have been even, and thus might not have been making clean contact. I used a small screw driver to gently bend some of the pins slight upward in hope that it will make more solid contact with the connector. Again, this is just another theory. I am hoping that this will have fixed it once and for all, otherwise the next step will be to pull the radio and see if there is room for an improved connection the back of the stereo again. It could be that something got loose back there. That horn issue, though, has me completely confused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trabbic Posted April 12, 2006 Author Share Posted April 12, 2006 I think that's got to be it... if they are just touching a little that will allow all buttons to work except the very low Ohm commands, IE the MUTE (22 Ohms). Pushing the horn in causes the wires to connect a little better and everything works again! And when you wiggled the wires it was better for a couple of days, right? I think you got it there, keep us informed... My vB Garage How to Install Steering Wheel Radio Controls Cubby Gauge Mounting Solutions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brady Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 I'm no longer sure or even somewhat convinced it was the wheel. I had still more issues on the way home and pulled the deck. The nature of pulling the deck completely pulled the wires free, so I can't be sure if they were loose/out to begin with, but I secured everything to the rear of the deck again and I KNOW that they're secure to the rear of the deck now, so if it continues, I'll know to look elsewhere. This is the fun of modding, right?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 Well now I know who to ask when I want some help in removing interior trim without breaking it all to $hit. It is still ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix96 Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 Well now I know who to ask when I want some help in removing interior trim without breaking it all to $hit. The Legacy's interior trim is so easy and convenient to take apart! I was used to interiors that required satanic incantations and the strength of five African Cape Buffalo with the dexterity of a spider monkey to disassemble. phoenix96 2006 Legacy GT Ltd · 2011 Outback 3.6R Ltd · 1992 SVX 2006 Outback 3.0R VDC · 2009 Forester 2.5X 2002 Outback VDC · 1996 Outback 2.5L · 1986 GL-10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brady Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 Well now I know who to ask when I want some help in removing interior trim without breaking it all to $hit. Mark, aside from the chrome trim for your automatic, i can pull my head unit and have it back in under 15 minutes now. I've had nearly every piece of the lower dash trim out of the car at some point, and have removed seats too. I'm getting to be way too skilled at this. If you need something, let me know and I'll be happy to do some re-configuration! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 I'm just remembering what a pain it was taking stuff apart in the Camry (door panels to replace broken inside door releases). It's not too hard if you know which direction to pull, push or pry the piece (dictated by what exactly the damn fastener looks like). Unfortunately neither Toyota nor Subaru service manuals give you a detailed close-up of just what you are working with and usually give you the well thoughtout directions of "...remove bezel..." or "...remove garnish...". Thanks for that help. I cracked the little triangular shaped piece in the leading corner of the window (on the inside) and that flippin' piece was $23! On top of the $45 I paid for the door handle. If there isn't one already (I haven't spent a lot of time looking) I think we should have a thread with close-up pictures of how various panels, trim, bezels and garnishes are attached. Since I got the digital camera I take pictures of everything I pull off the car (GT fog light surrounds for one), so that I know how to remove them in the future when I have to take it apart again. I really hate gouging or marking up pieces while trying to remove them. Brady, we should meet for a beer or soda at Zeke's on Old Shakopee after work some day. You work down there right? interiors that required satanic incantations and the strength of five African Cape Buffalo with the dexterity of a spider monkey to disassemble. Oh, how true! It is still ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brady Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 I'm about a mile from Zeke's! Same strip mall as the Subway and Domino's right? Across from the baseball fields? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 Yeah, that's the place. I live about a mile or so from there (to the west and a little north). I work until 4 on Mondays, Tuesdays & Wednesdays. Let me know if you're up for it. It is still ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brady Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 Final Update: It was loose wires on the rear of the deck. I had previously zip tied them in place, and that apparently was not secure enough. This time I used electrical tape and have not had any more failures since. The horn issue still baffles me as it seems to be much more than coincidence, and it seemed that there were times that was the only thing that would make the controls work again. When I was bending the pins on the roll connector, any time I touched both of the far left pins, the horn would sound, so it's possible that honking the horn affected the signal with regard to ground. That's just a wild guess though. In the end, had I just listened to Trabbic to begin with, I would have driven a few hundred miles less with flakey controls! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trabbic Posted May 11, 2006 Author Share Posted May 11, 2006 Brady, any more ghosts? Everyone else, has anybody with an automatic done this yet? My vB Garage How to Install Steering Wheel Radio Controls Cubby Gauge Mounting Solutions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VTsullyman Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 Hey guys i just got my legacy and its an auto so i might pioneer it. Trabbic i have been thinking about everyones ideas for the best of both worlds plan. Help me clear up some things so i can think it all through. You are saying that you are unsure we can have both because they both go into the same factory harness at the wheel? What if we ran all the wires back to the sterio and tapped in there and did not hook into the white harness under the wheel at all? We would have to find those wires at the back of the HU yes but i am sure we can get a wireing schem and figure it out. The only thing that we would have to look at it tapping into the shift buttons on one side and hooking up the night illumination wires. Seems to me that we could just spilt off of this wire(s) or find another wire to piggyback off of to get the button lights to work right. Does this sound right or am i way off base? 2007 DGM LGT 2003 Suzuki SV650S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brady Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 Not way off base, but a little. The issue isn't the white harness behind the wheel, it's the roll connector in the wheel. The wires have to run throught the roll connector (green harness on the wheel) so your wires don't tangle and bind when you turn the wheel. Otherwise, we're already just running the wires from the back of the roll connector essentially straight to the head unit (you're basically splicing into the back of the head unit). What you need to find out is what the resistance is from the buttons on the shifter as compared to the resistance from the radio control buttons. Trabbic already knows the resistance for the radio buttons, so you'd just need to run a test on your steering wheel controls with a multimeter (I think, Trabbic can correct me if I'm wrong). Then, there's still the question of which controls you want to keep and which you want to lose for the radio. If you just want volume and mute, you'll have your shifter controls on the left and radio on the right. If you want to be able to select tracks and source, you'll have those on the left, and shifter on the right but no volume. Or, you can get REALLY pioneering and build your own paddle set up and have those activated off the buttons for your shifter assuming the resistance is different. I'll keep watching this one to see what Trabbic says. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brady Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 Brady, any more ghosts? None at all. Wish I had listened to your first suggestion! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trabbic Posted May 11, 2006 Author Share Posted May 11, 2006 Not way off base, but a little. The issue isn't the white harness behind the wheel, it's the roll connector in the wheel. The wires have to run through the roll connector (green harness on the wheel) so your wires don't tangle and bind when you turn the wheel. Otherwise, we're already just running the wires from the back of the roll connector essentially straight to the head unit (you're basically splicing into the back of the head unit). What you need to find out is what the resistance is from the buttons on the shifter as compared to the resistance from the radio control buttons. Trabbic already knows the resistance for the radio buttons, so you'd just need to run a test on your steering wheel controls with a multimeter (I think, Trabbic can correct me if I'm wrong). Then, there's still the question of which controls you want to keep and which you want to lose for the radio. If you just want volume and mute, you'll have your shifter controls on the left and radio on the right. If you want to be able to select tracks and source, you'll have those on the left, and shifter on the right but no volume. Or, you can get REALLY pioneering and build your own paddle set up and have those activated off the buttons for your shifter assuming the resistance is different. I'll keep watching this one to see what Trabbic says. This is 100% correct... Thanks for typing it all up for me! My vB Garage How to Install Steering Wheel Radio Controls Cubby Gauge Mounting Solutions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 This is 100% correct... Thanks for typing it all up for me! Well, at least I have this going for me: I'd want track/source selection AND right-side shifter buttons. Don't need volume and/or mute as much (volume knob isn't that far from the wheel - track selection IS!). Then again, I could probably get used to left-side shifting.. Now if someone could figure out a "shift to gear x" button setup like they did for the 4EAT in the WRX :-) (that is, gears 1-2 are the left-side up/down, gears 3-4 are right-side up/down). Use the shifter to get to 5th when you need to. That'd rock!! HV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VTsullyman Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 OK I see what you guys mean now. Another crazy idea to throw into the mix for you two. I am assuming that all the buttons for the radio controls have different resistances and that’s how it all works. If this is the case then can’t we still use only one set of controls and make a small board to switch from one set of resistances to another. Like mute= 2.2 ohms and mode= 1.7 ohms so a board and switch could then be fabbed to switch the load and send the desired signal. I am just making up numbers but I think it will help you get my concept. I am sure the first board will require some planning and thinking out but it seems doable. I am really split right now because I hardly ever use the shifter buttons on the wheel rather I use the stick. After seeing the crazy good aftermarket install with the pioneer it all might be for nothing as that is a project I want to take on. Anyone feel like a road trip or a meet up to do some crazy stuff? Let me know what you guys think about the switch idea. 2007 DGM LGT 2003 Suzuki SV650S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 making paddleshifters, now that's an idea!!! The buttons can be relocated to the fron/back of the eheel like with the other manual/auto cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted May 16, 2006 Share Posted May 16, 2006 Looks like SOJ took care of this for the 08 LGT! http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18456&d=1147704920 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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