agctr Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 This is a question that has plagued me forever, which is better? For a daily driver, what do U recommend for extra bite? There are a lot of pros and cons out there for both but usually when ppl talk about this subject its mainly for the race track or strip, what about every day driving.... comments most welcome. Ada///M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 Swear ta me!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeepFreeze2 Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 +1. Better fix teh poll before Jedi shows up. I have heard slotted is better for "everyday use" (whatever that means). YA RLY!!! Home of +2500 useless posts!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbacis Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 I think you'll see that most people will say drilled are prone to cracking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrasse Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 Neither. Get frozen (cryogenically treated) for duability and performance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 I have cracked 6 drilled rotors in the past with just city driving. Slotted is the way to go, pads don't last as long, maybe 20-30% reduction in pad life, but they will not glaze on you, and they will always be ready for action. Or just get better vented rotors, no slots, no holes. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elpete77 Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 You denifinately don't want drum brakes. Those are the WORSTEST. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 The worstesterest! Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagcars26 Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 slotted Rudy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 dimpled, slotted, and cryo FTW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wukindada Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 Dimpled & slotted are on their way....Black zinc coated DBA rotors:) Toyota 6EATS .........SUCK!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just_phil Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 I used to have slotted rotors on my Maxima. They make a LOT of noise after the pads are worn past the beveled edge (which on the Max was at about half the useful thickness). Also, when they need to be cut, not every shop will know how to do it. And you already know why the drilled rotors are bad. On top of that, for a daily driver there's probably no noticeable difference in brake performance. I'll stick with either OEM or some premium aftermarket plain rotors when the time comes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sutter2k Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 If you are sticking with stock wheels, this brake package might be of interest. http://www.hopupracing.com/romifr4picak1.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sutter2k Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 If you are sticking with stock wheels, this brake package might be of interest. http://www.hopupracing.com/romifr4picak1.html ^ or maybe not. (exc 2.5 gt) probably means excludes GT. sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 I have cracked 6 drilled rotors in the past with just city driving. Slotted is the way to go, pads don't last as long, maybe 20-30% reduction in pad life, but they will not glaze on you, and they will always be ready for action. Or just get better vented rotors, no slots, no holes. you know why it's cracking right? you're in Canada.. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 You denifinately don't want drum brakes. Those are the WORSTEST. you do know the rear brakes are drum discs? Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 just letting you guys know that I will be doing some testing and reviewing of some rotors Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elpete77 Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 Drum discs? Whaaaat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 For a daily driver, what do U recommend for extra bite? There are a lot of pros and cons out there for both but usually when ppl talk about this subject its mainly for the race track or strip, what about every day driving.... comments most welcome. Ada///M. Adam, I am working on some info with Racing Brake on a set of M3 rotor differences as well as the GT. "Common" sense (or whatever is used in the general public) that a set of blanks work just fine.. unless you are heating up the brakes a lot, slotted maybe a good thing to have since the slots are there to keep the brake pads from glazing. But you would have to be using some good amount of braking to get rotors that warm. the drilled portion can be defined in two ways in today's manufacturing process: 1) actually drilling of the rotor after the blanks are created and formed 2) casting of the actual rotor with the "drilled" look pattern to them Of course, I hope that the we all look for a rotor with the 2nd process (the 1st process is the cheaper method and frankly, it's old school and it sucks compared what we can do today) Today's rotors are pretty abundant of how they are made (type of material, process, etc).. if you have a very good casted iron form of a rotor that is harden well, you can get more clamping force out of your calipers (imagine a rotor going soft like cheese when heat is applied.. and imagine a wheel of cheese and your hands being the caliper.. try squeezing the spinning wheel of cheese, it's going to be hard to slow the axle down like so and it's going to literally feel like mush, which is exactly what happens when your brakes start to heat up and feel the "fade" working its way in). We all just have to be careful of what to expect when we buy rotors that are suppose to be better than stock. Currently I am working with Racing Brake right now to get the Legacy community a good set of rotors that is a good alternative to DBA, Rotora, stock, and other expensive brake upgrades that 90% of us probably won't even use on the street *unless you drive like a maniac or that you are a hard core track guy*. if you are looking for great initial bite, there are two to three ways to look into: 1) caliper clamping strength 2) rotor hardness along temperature capacity range 3) brake pad friction in order for the brakes itself to be effective, all 3 of these issues cant lack one less the other, it's a system and of course, this becomes an upgrading issue of getting rid of "the weakest link". Hope that helps. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 Drum discs? Whaaaat? drum disc the e-brake is a drum system on our cars (similar to the Imprezas and STi for a long time).. while the actual brakes that you use in daily driving is mated with the caliper and vented disc portion of it. Unlike some other cars where the e-brake system is tied to the rear caliper system, Subaru opted to use a 2-piece brake system set. That way, even if you have a broken rear caliper or failing hydraulic brakes, the e-brake is still a mechancial system that uses a drum set up to slow the car down. Also the this system has a good side and bad side: Good = compared to older conventional methods of mating the ebrake system with a mechanical and hydraulic rear caliper, it would suck if you ran out of brake pads in the rear, causing you to use just the backing plates to squeeze against the rotor.. that isn't going to stop you if you HAD to use the e-brake to slow your car down. With a drum-disc set up, there are two sets of brake pads and shoes: one for the normal driving (pads); one for parking brake {shoes). By having two seperate systems, you will always find a way to slow a car down using its own mechanics and not by a tree or pole Bad = A drum set up can retain a lot of heat, especially through its internals, for racing use, it sucks as you dont want heat build up. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 I used to have slotted rotors on my Maxima. They make a LOT of noise after the pads are worn past the beveled edge (which on the Max was at about half the useful thickness). Also, when they need to be cut, not every shop will know how to do it. And you already know why the drilled rotors are bad. On top of that, for a daily driver there's probably no noticeable difference in brake performance. I'll stick with either OEM or some premium aftermarket plain rotors when the time comes. which rotors did you have? There are also different ways to slot a rotor as well. I think what you are also experiencing at that time was a lot of dust build-up on the rotor as well. That can make a lot of noise. What kind of pads were you using with the rotors? You are correct about having a shop reworking the rotor if you need to, but a really well built rotor with proper care (driving style also helps a lot) would actually prevent a lot of warping and even cracking (as you can also crack a stock rotor.. I personally have seen someone cracked a blank before on a WRX). A good rotor that is hard and can take the heat WITHOUT having the iron go soft from it makes a huge difference in pedal feel, especially in stop and go traffic. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agctr Posted January 7, 2006 Author Share Posted January 7, 2006 Thanks Keefe, Please let us know the outcome of yr findings as Im sure Im not the only one really interested. For me I think DBA (also being the hometown hero) will be the rotors I get. I would get drilled I think. Ive never heard of REAL rotors cracking that are cast. Put it this way, I dont hear of too many GT2 or GT3 exploding because there rotors were drilled. I think a lot of guys go for cheap rubbish, hence they crack and then they all say drilled is rubbish, I find that statement RUBBISH. Anyway I think drilled DBA Rotors with STi SSBL's RedDot Brake Fluid and Keefe yr recommendation for Endless Pads..... sounds like a good combo but will be interested to see if u build on this from yr upcoming tests. All the best and as always greatly appreciated. Ada///M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just_phil Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 which rotors did you have? There are also different ways to slot a rotor as well. I think what you are also experiencing at that time was a lot of dust build-up on the rotor as well. That can make a lot of noise. What kind of pads were you using with the rotors? They were Powerslot rotors, with Nissan OEM pads (the higher priced onces, not the KeyValue variety). And you're right about the dust, although for me it was more like a mix of brake dust/rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 Drilled is for looks, doesn't do squat. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robsontuning Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 DBA 5000 series rotors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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